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How to brew/Section 1/Chap 2 : Préparation du brassage

2009-02-17T15:40:00Z

Chrodegang : /* Cleaning Your Equipment */

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== La voie pour bien brasser. ==

Il y a trois choses importantes à garder à l'esprit à chaque fois que vous brassez: préparation, désinfection et bonne tenue des dossiers. Une bonne préparation évite les mauvaises surprises. Vous ne voulez pas être à mi-parcours de votre brassage et réaliser que vous n'avez pas de levure. Vous ne voulez pas verser un bon moût dans un fermenteur que vous avez oublié de nettoyer. Nettoyage et désinfection sont une partie de vos préparatifs, mais ils sont les facteurs les plus importants pour assurer le succès du brassin. Au cours d'une interview dans une brasserie à succès, le maître-brasseur me dit ceci: "Un bon brassage c'est 75% de nettoyage". Et je le crois. Enfin, il existe deux types de brasseurs: le chanceux et le cohérent. Le chanceux va parfois produire d'excellents lots, mais tout aussi souvent que des mauvais. Il brasse intuitivement, innovant et expérimentant avec des résultats mitigés. Le cohérent a plus d'excellents brassins que de mauvais. Il peut être innovateur et expérimentateur, la différence étant qu'il prend en note ce qu'il fait et comment il le fait afin de tirer des enseignements de ses actions. De bonnes notes feront la différence entre chance et compétence.

== The Road to Good Brewing ==

There are three important things to keep in mind every time you brew: Preparation, Sanitation, and Good Record Keeping. Good preparation prevents nasty surprises. You don't want to be halfway through your brewing and realize that you don't have any yeast. You don't want to pour good wort into a fermentor that you forgot to clean. Cleaning and Sanitizing are part of your preparation but are the most important factors for assuring a successful batch of beer. During an interview at a very successful brewpub, the head brewer told me, "Good brewing is 75% cleaning." And I believe it. Lastly, there are two types of brewers- lucky and consistent. The lucky brewer will sometimes produce an outstanding batch of beer, but just as often one that is not. He brews from the seat-of-his-pants, innovating and experimenting with mixed results. The consistent brewer has more outstanding batches than poor ones. He may be an innovator and an experimenter, the difference is that he takes note of what he did and how much he did of it so that he can always learn from his results. Good record keeping will make the difference between luck and skill. 

 

== Les préparatifs.==

[[Image:1_2_1_Preparation1.jpg]]

''Figure 16.'' Tous les équipements et les ingrédients du brassin du jour sont poser sur la table et prêts à l'utilisation. Le grain moulu est placé dans une étamine, le tout lié, et le houblon est déposé dans trois bols séparés.

Préparer votre équipement est avant tout une affaire de nettoyage et de désinfection, mais l'organisation est également une part du processus. Pour chaque processus du brassage, une préparation peut être faite pour le rendre plus efficace.

Pensez à ce que vous allez faire:

'''Consulter la recette''' - Faites une liste de vos achats d'ingrédients et des quantités. Planifiez à l'avance comment vous allez les mesurer. Avez-vous besoin de plus de bols ou des tasses à mesurer? Avez-vous une bonne eau du robinet, ou devez-vous en acheter?

'''L'équipement''' - Faites une liste du matériel que vous utilisez et regardez s'il a besoin d'être désinfecté ou nettoyé. N'essayez pas de nettoyer quelque chose à la dernière minute, juste quand vous en avez besoin, vous rechercheriez la difficulté. Utilisez une liste de contrôle pour organiser vos pensées et voir si vous avez négligé quelque chose. Vous pourriez vouloir acheter des ustensiles expressément pour le brassage; ne mélangez pas avec une spatule que vous utilisez souvent pour faire cuire les oignons. Plus d'instructions sur le nettoyage sont données plus loin dans ce chapitre.

'''Tableau 2 - Liste de contrôle du nettoyage et de la désinfection.'''

Marmite _Propre
Cuillère à remuer _Propre
Cuillère à soupe _Propre
Bol de mesure _Propre _Désinfecté
Récipient pour la culture de levure _Propre _Désinfecté
Fermenteur et couvercle _Propre _Désinfecté
Barboteur _Propre _Désinfecté
Thermomètre _Propre _Désinfecté

'''Préparer les levures''' - Cette étape est primordiale, sans levures, vous ne pouvez pas faire de bière. La levure doit être préparée dès le début du brassin (si ce n'est plus tôt) afin de voir si elle est viable et prête à travailler. Si vous avez passé du temps à préparer l'équipement, brasser et que vous n'avez rien pour fermenter, vous allez être très déçu. Voir le chapitre 6 pour des informations détaillées sur la préparation de levure.

'''Bouillir''' - Pesez les différentes additions de houblon et placez les dans des coupes séparées pour les ajouter à différents moments durant l'ébullition. Si vous comptez faire tremper des grains moulus (cf. chapitre 12), alors pesez, emballez et immergez les avant d'ajouter votre extrait dans la marmite.

'''Refroidir après l'ébullition''' - Si vous prévoyez de refroidir le moût en utilisant un bain d'eau, c'est-à-dire placer le pot dans l'évier ou la baignoire, assurez-vous d'avoir assez de glace sous la main pour refroidir rapidement le moût. Un refroidissement rapide après l'ébullition est nécessaire pour aider à prévenir les infections et pour générer une cassure à froid dans le moût. Une cassure précipite les protéines, les polyphénols et les bêta-glucanes, qui sont soupçonnés de contribuer à l'instabilité de bière au cours du stockage. Une bonne cassure à froid réduit également le risque de trouble à froid dans la future bière.

'''La désinfection''' - Tout ce qui touche le moût refroidi doit être désinfecté. Cela comprend le fermenteur, le barboteur, et tous les éléments suivants, en fonction de vos méthodes de transfert: entonnoir, égouttoir, cuillère à remuer, canne de transvasement. Les techniques de désinfection seront discutées plus loin dans le chapitre.

En prenant le temps de préparer votre brassin du jour, le brassage se passera sans accrocs et vous aurez moins tendance à oublier une étape. Nettoyer et désinfecter votre équipement au préalable vous permettra d'accorder plus d'attention aux tâches à accomplir (et peut-être prévenir d'un salissant débordement lors de l'ébullition). Préparez votre levure soit par ré-hydratation et épreuve soit avec un starter qui fera en sorte que le travail de l'après-midi n'aura pas été vain. Tenez vos ingrédients mesurés et visibles permettra d'éviter toutes erreurs dans la recette. Enfin, la préparation de chaque étape du brassage pour tenir son équipement prêt et la planification du processus rendront l'ensemble des opérations plus simples et jouissives. Votre bière en bénéficiera probablement. Comme dans toutes choses, un peu de préparation est un long chemin qui conduit à l'amélioration du résultat final.

== Preparation ==

Figure 16: All the equipment and ingredients for the day's brew are set out on the counter and ready to go. The crushed specialty grain is tied in a muslin grainbag, and the hops have been weighed and put in three separate bowls.

Preparing your brewing equipment is principally a matter of cleaning and sanitizing, but organization is a part of the process too. For each of the brewing processes, some preparation can be done to make the process work better.

Consider what you are going to do:

Check the Recipe - Make a shopping list of your ingredients and amounts. Plan ahead on how you are going to measure them. Do you need extra bowls or measuring cups? Do you have good water out of the tap, or should you buy some?

Equipment - Make a checklist of the equipment you will be using and note whether it needs to be sanitized or only cleaned. Don't try to clean something at the last minute just as you need it, you are inviting trouble. Use a checklist to organize your thoughts and see if you have overlooked anything. You may want to purchase utensils expressly for brewing; don't stir with a spatula that you often use to cook onions. More instruction on cleaning is given later in this chapter.

Table 2 - Cleaning and Sanitizing Checklist

Brewpot _ Clean

Stirring Spoon _ Clean

Tablespoon _ Clean _ Sanitize

Measuring Cup _Clean _ Sanitize

Yeast Starter Jar _ Clean _ Sanitize

Fermentor and Lid _ Clean _ Sanitize

Airlock _ Clean _ Sanitize

Thermometer _ Clean _ Sanitize

Preparing The Yeast - This step is paramount; without yeast, you can not make beer. The yeast should be prepared at the beginning of the brewing session (if not before) so you can tell if it's alive and ready to work beforehand. If you have spent time preparing the equipment and making the wort and then you have nothing to ferment it with, you will be very disappointed. See Chapter 6 for detailed information on yeast preparation.

The Boil - Weigh out your hop additions and place them in separate bowls for the different addition times during the boil. If you are going to steep crushed specialty grain (see Chapter 12), then weigh, package and steep it before adding your extract to the boiling pot.

Cooling After The Boil - If you plan to chill the wort using a water bath, i.e., setting the pot in the sink or the bathtub, make sure you have enough ice on hand to cool the wort quickly. A quick chill from boiling is necessary to help prevent infection and to generate the Cold Break in the wort. A good cold break precipitates proteins, polyphenols and beta glucans which are believed to contribute to beer instability during storage. A good cold break also reduces the amount of chill haze in the final beer.

Sanitizing - Anything that touches the cooled wort must be sanitized. This includes the fermentor, airlock, and any of the following, depending on your transfer methods: Funnel, strainer, stirring spoon and racking cane. Sanitizing techniques are discussed later in this chapter.

By taking the time to prepare for your brewday, the brewing will go smoothly and you will be less likely to forget any steps. Cleaning and sanitizing your equipment beforehand will allow you to pay more attention to your task at hand (and maybe prevent a messy boilover). Preparing your yeast by either re-hydrating and proofing or making a Starter will ensure that the afternoon's work will not have been in vain. Having your ingredients laid out and measured will prevent any mistakes in the recipe. Finally, preparing for each stage of the brewing process by having the equipment ready and the process planned out will make the whole operation simple and keep it fun. Your beer will probably benefit too. As in all things, a little preparation goes a long way to improving the end result.

== La désinfection. ==

La propreté est la principale préoccupation du brasseur. Offrir de bonnes conditions de croissance aux levures dans la bière favorise également la croissance d'autres micro-organismes, en particulier les levures sauvages et les bactéries. La propreté doit être maintenue tout au long de chaque étape du processus de brassage.

[[Image:1_2_2_Sanitation1.jpg]]

''Figure 17.'' Les cellules de levure sont rondes, les vers sont des bactéries. 3000X

La définition et l'objectif de la désinfection sont de réduire le nombre de bactéries et de contaminants à des niveaux négligeables ou gérables. Les termes nettoyage, désinfection et stérilisation sont souvent utilisés de façon interchangeable, mais ne devrait pas l'être. Des objets peuvent être propres, mais pas désinfectés et vice versa. Voici les définitions:

-Nettoyage - Afin d'enlever la saleté, les tâches ou les corps étrangers.
-Désinfection - Pour éliminer ou réduire les mauvais micro-organismes à des niveaux négligeables.
-Stérilisation - Permet d'éliminer toutes formes de vie, spécialement les microorganismes par des moyens chimiques ou physiques.

Le nettoyage est la suppression de toutes les saletés et la crasse d'une surface, éliminant ainsi tous les sites propices aux bactéries. Il est généralement effectué avec un détergent et de l'huile de coude. Aucun des agents de désinfection utilisés par les brasseurs amateurs ne sont capables d'éliminer tous les spores bactériennes et les virus. La majorité de ces agents chimiques nettoient et désinfectent mais ne stérilisent pas. Toutefois, la stérilisation n'est pas nécessaire. Au lieu de se préoccuper de la stérilisation, les brasseurs amateurs peuvent être satisfaits s'ils ont considérablement réduit ces contaminants à des niveaux négligeables.

Tous les désinfectants sont destinés à être utilisés sur des surfaces propres. Leur capacité à éliminer les micro-organismes est réduit par la présence de poussière, de saleté ou de matière organique.
Les dépôts organiques peuvent accueillir des bactéries et empêchent la surface d'être atteinte par le désinfectant. C'est donc à vous de veiller à ce que la surface de l'élément à désinfecter soit aussi propre que possible.

== Sanitation ==

Cleanliness is the foremost concern of the brewer. Providing good growing conditions for the yeast in the beer also provides good growing conditions for other micro-organisms, especially wild yeast and bacteria. Cleanliness must be maintained throughout every stage of the brewing process.

Figure 17: The yeast cells are the round things, the worms are bacteria. 3000X

The definition and objective of sanitization is to reduce bacteria and contaminants to insignificant or manageable levels. The terms clean, sanitize and sterilize are often used interchangeably, but should not be. Items may be clean but not sanitized or vice versa. Here are the definitions:

* Clean - To be free from dirt, stain, or foreign matter.
* Sanitize - To kill/reduce spoiling microorganisms to negligible levels.
* Sterilize - To eliminate all forms of life, especially microorganisms, either by chemical or physical means.

Cleaning is the process of removing all the dirt and grime from a surface, thereby removing all the sites that can harbor bacteria. Cleaning is usually done with a detergent and elbow grease. None of the sanitizing agents used by homebrewers are capable of eliminating all bacterial spores and viruses. The majority of chemical agents homebrewers use will clean and sanitize but not sterilize. However, sterilization is not necessary. Instead of worrying about sterilization, homebrewers can be satisfied if they consistently reduce these contaminants to negligible levels.

All sanitizers are meant to be used on clean surfaces. A sanitizer's ability to kill microorganisms is reduced by the presence of dirt, grime or organic material. Organic deposits can harbor bacteria and shield the surface from being reached by the sanitizer. So it is up to you to make sure the surface of the item to be sanitized is as clean as possible.

== Les produits de nettoyage. ==

[[Image:1_2_3_Cleaning_products1.jpg]]

Le nettoyage requiert une certaine quantité de récurage, brossage, et d'huile de coude. C'est nécessaire car une surface sale ne peut en aucun cas être complètement désinfectée. Les dépôts rugueux peuvent abriter les bactéries qui, à terme, contaminent la bière. La capacité d'un agent de désinfection à éliminer les bactéries est réduite par la présence d'un supplément de matière organique, ainsi un nettoyage préalable est nécessaire pour assurer une désinfection complète. Plusieurs produits de nettoyage à la disposition des brasseurs amateurs sont exposés ci-dessous, ainsi que les recommandations concernant le nettoyage des équipements.

'''Les détergents.'''

Lessives et détergents doivent être utilisés avec précaution lors du nettoyage de vos équipements. Ces produits contiennent souvent des parfums qui peuvent être absorbés par les équipements en plastique et libérés dans la bière. En outre, certaines lessives et détergents ne se rincent pas totalement et laissent parfois un film qui peut donner un goût à la bière. Plusieurs rinçages à l'eau chaude peuvent s'avérer nécessaire pour enlever toutes les traces. Les lessives contenant des phosphates se rincent généralement plus facilement, comme il s'agit de polluants, ils sont progressivement délaissés. Un détergent doux et sans parfum, comme le liquide vaisselle est un bon choix pour la plupart de vos besoins routiniers. Seules les tâches tenaces ou les dépôts brûlés auront besoin de quelque chose de plus puissant.

'''L'eau de javel.'''

L'eau de javel est un des nettoyants les plus polyvalents à la disposition du brasseur amateur. Lors de la dissolution dans l'eau froide, cela forme une solution caustique qui est efficace pour dissoudre les dépôts organiques comme les tâches de nourriture et les résidus de brassage. L'eau de javel est une solution aqueuse de chlore, de chlorures et d'hypochlorites. Tous ces composants chimiques contribuent aux pouvoirs nettoyants et bactéricides de l'eau de javel, mais sont aussi corrosifs pour bon nombre de métaux utilisés pour les équipements brassicoles. Elle ne doit pas être utilisée pour le nettoyage du laiton et du cuivre, car elle provoque un noircissement et une corrosion excessive. Elle peut être utilisée pour nettoyer l'acier inoxydable, mais il faut être prudent pour éviter la corrosion et les piqûres.

Il y a quelques lignes directrices simples à garder à l'esprit lors de l'utilisation de l'eau de javel pour nettoyer l'acier inoxydable:

1. Ne laissez pas le métal en contact avec l'eau chlorée pendant de longues périodes (pas plus d'une heure).

2. Remplissez complètement les récipients pour éviter une corrosion au niveau de l'eau.

3. Après le nettoyage ou la désinfection, rincez les objets avec de l'eau bouillie et séchez les complètement.

'''Les percarbonates.'''

Le percarbonate de sodium est un carbonate de sodium (c'est-à-dire '''"Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda"''') qui a réagi avec du peroxyde d'hydrogène et qui constitue un nettoyant très efficace pour les équipements de brassage. Il se rince facilement. Plusieurs produits (par exemple Straight-A, Powder Brewery Wash, B-Brite, et One-Step) sont approuvés par la FDA ''(Food and Drugs Administration, ndt)'' comme nettoyant dans l'agroalimentaire. One-Step est étiqueté comme un nettoyant léger et un agent de rinçage final; il produit du peroxyde d'hydrogène en solution. Le peroxyde d'hydrogène va désinfecter efficacement les surfaces et les récipients déjà propres. Comme avec tous les désinfectants, l'efficacité du peroxyde d'hydrogène est compromis par la présence de résidus organiques. Utilisez ces nettoyants selon les instructions du fabricant, mais en général, utilisez une cuillère à soupe par gallon (4ml par litre) et rincez après le nettoyage.

A mon avis, les nettoyants à base de percabonates sont le meilleur choix pour nettoyer les équipements, notamment Straight-A de [http://www.ecologiccleansers.com Logic Inc.] et Powder Brewery Wash (PBW) de Five Star Chemicals, Inc. qui sont les meilleurs. Ces produits combinent le métasilicate de sodium avec le percarbonate dans une forme stable qui augmente son efficacité et empêche la corrosion des métaux comme le cuivre et l'aluminium contrairement aux autres solutions alcalines plus agressives.

'''Le phosphate trisodique.'''

Le phosphate trisodique (TSP) et le TSP chloré (CTSP) sont des nettoyants très efficaces contre les dépôts post-fermentation et la forme chlorée est aussi un désinfectant. Les TSP et CTSP deviennent difficiles à trouver mais sont toujours disponibles au rayon peinture des quincailleries (les peintres les utilisent pour laver les murs car ils se rincent complètement). L'usage recommandé est d'une cuillère à soupe par gallon ''(+/- 15gr pour 18.9 litres, ndt)''. On ne devraient pas laisser tremper dans une solution de TSP et CTSP plus d'une heure à cause du dépôt minéral blanc qui se forme parfois sur le verre et le métal et qui nécessite un passage d'acide (vinaigre) pour l'enlever. Ce n'est pas un problème toutefois.

'''Le lave-vaisselle.'''

Utiliser un lave-vaisselle pour nettoyer l'équipement et les bouteilles est une idée répandue parmi les brasseurs amateurs, mais il y a quelques limites:

-L'ouverture étroite des tuyaux, des cannes de transvasement et des bouteilles empêche généralement les jets d'eau et les détergents de nettoyer efficacement l'intérieur.

-Si le détergent atteint l'intérieur, rien n'indique qu'il sera rincé par la suite.

-Les additifs de séchage (Jet Dry, par exemple) peuvent ruiner la prise de mousse d'une bière. Ces additifs déposent un film chimique à la surface des objets pour qu'il soient uniformément mouillés et non sous forme de gouttelettes, pour prévenir des tâches. L'action de mouillage déstabilise les protéines à l'origine de la formation des bulles.

A l'exception des cuillères, des tasses de mesures et des bocaux à large ouverture, il est peut être préférable de n'utiliser le lave-vaisselle que pour une désinfection thermique et non pour laver. Cette dernière sera discutée un peu plus loin dans le chapitre.

'''Le nettoyant pour four.'''

Communément connu sous le vocable de lessive ''(de soude, ndt)'', l'hydroxyde de sodium (NaOH) est le principal ingrédients de la plupart des nettoyants puissants comme pour les fours ou le débouchage. L'hydroxyde de potassium est également couramment utilisé. Même dans des concentrations modérées, ces produits chimiques sont très dangereux pour la peau et doivent être utilisés uniquement avec des gants en caoutchouc et lunettes de protection. Le vinaigre est utile pour neutraliser l'hydroxyde de sodium qui est sur votre peau, mais s'il se retrouve dans vos yeux, cela pourrait causer de graves brûlures voire la cécité.
Le produit pour four en spray est la façon la plus sûre et la plus commode d'utiliser l'hydroxyde de sodium. Les brasseurs font souvent brûler le fond de leur cuve; il en résulte une zone de moût noirci et attaché, qui est difficile à retirer, de peur de trouer le pot. Une fois la zone propre, il est important de rincer rigoureusement cette partie pour éviter une corrosion du métal par la suite.

L'hydroxyde de sodium est très corrosif sur l'aluminium et le laiton. Le cuivre et l'acier inoxydable sont généralement résistants. Pur, il ne doit pas être utilisé pour nettoyer les cuves en aluminium parce que son pH élevé cause la dissolution des oxydes protecteurs, et le lot de bière qui suit pourrait avoir un goût métallique. Le nettoyant pour four ne doit pas affecter l'aluminium s'il est utilisé correctement.

== Cleaning Products ==

Cleaning requires a certain amount of scrubbing, brushing and elbow grease. It is necessary because a dirty surface can never be a completely sanitized one. Grungy deposits can harbor bacteria that will ultimately contaminate your beer. The ability of a sanitizing agent to kill bacteria is reduced by the presence of any extra organic matter, so prior cleaning is necessary to assure complete sanitization. Several cleaning products available to the homebrewer are discussed below. Cleaning recommendations for the equipment you will be using follow.

Detergents
Dish and laundry detergents and cleansers should be used with caution when cleaning your brewing equipment. These products often contain perfumes that can be adsorbed onto plastic equipment and released back into the beer. In addition, some detergents and cleansers do not rinse completely and often leave behind a film that can be tasted in the beer. Several rinses with hot water may be necessary to remove all traces of the detergent. Detergents containing phosphates generally rinse more easily than those without, but because phosphates are pollutants, they are slowly being phased out. A mild unscented dish washing detergent like Ivory is a good choice for most of your routine equipment cleaning needs. Only stubborn stains or burnt-on deposits will require something stronger.

Bleach
Bleach is one of the most versatile cleaners available to the homebrewer. When dissolved in cold water, it forms a caustic solution that is good at breaking up organic deposits like food stains and brewing gunk. Bleach is an aqueous solution of chlorine, chlorides and hypochlorites. These chemical agents all contribute to bleach's bactericidal and cleaning powers, but are also corrosive to a number of metals used in brewing equipment. Bleach should not be used for cleaning brass and copper because it causes blackening and excessive corrosion. Bleach can be used to clean stainless steel, but you need to be careful to prevent corrosion and pitting.

There are a few simple guidelines to keep in mind when using bleach to clean stainless steel.

1. Do not leave the metal in contact with chlorinated water for extended periods of time (no more than an hour).
2. Fill vessels completely so corrosion does not occur at the waterline.
3. After the cleaning or sanitizing treatment, rinse the item with boiled water and dry the item completely.

Percarbonates
Sodium percarbonate is sodium carbonate (i.e. Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda) reacted with hydrogen peroxide and it is a very effective cleaner for all types of brewing equipment. It rinses easily. Several products (e.g. Straight-A, Powder Brewery Wash, B-Brite, and One-Step) are approved by the FDA as cleaners in food-manufacturing facilities. One-Step is labeled as a light cleaner and final rinse agent, and produces hydrogen peroxide in solution. Hydrogen peroxide will effectively sanitize surfaces and containers that are already clean. As with all sanitizers, the effectiveness of hydrogen peroxide as a sanitizing agent is comprimised by organic soil. Use these cleaners according to the manufacturer's instructions, but generally use one tablespoon per gallon (4 ml per liter) and rinse after cleaning.

In my opinion, percarbonate-based cleaners are the best choice for equipment cleaning, and Straight-A from Logic Inc., and Powder Brewery Wash (PBW) from Five Star Chemicals, Inc. are the best of them. These products combine sodium metasilicate with the percarbonate in a stable form which increases its effectivity and prevents the corrosion of metals like copper and aluminum that strong alkaline solutions can cause.

Trisodium Phosphate
Trisodium phosphate (TSP) and chlorinated TSP (CTSP) are very effective cleaners for post-fermentation brewing deposits and the chlorinated form is also a sanitizer. TSP and CTSP are becoming harder to find, but are still available at hardware stores in the paint section. (Painters use it for washing walls because it can be rinsed away completely.) The recommended usage is one tablespoon per gallon of hot water. Solutions of TSP and CTSP should not be left to soak for more than an hour because a white mineral film can sometimes deposit on glass and metal which requires an acid (vinegar) solution to remove. This is not usually a problem however.

Automatic Dishwashers
Using dishwashers to clean equipment and bottles is a popular idea among homebrewers but there are a few limitations:

* The narrow openings of hoses, racking canes and bottles usually prevent the water jets and detergent from effectively cleaning inside.
* If detergent does get inside these items, there is no guarantee that it will get rinsed out again.
* Dishwasher drying additives (Jet Dry, for example) can ruin the head retention of beer. Drying additives work by putting a chemical film on the items that allows them to be fully wetted by the water so droplets don't form; preventing spots. The wetting action destabilizes the proteins that form the bubbles.

With the exceptions of spoons, measuring cups and wide mouth jars, it is probably best to only use automatic dishwashers for heat sanitizing, not cleaning. Heat sanitizing is discussed later in this chapter.

Oven Cleaner
Commonly known as lye, sodium hydroxide (NaOH) is the caustic main ingredient of most heavy-duty cleaners like oven and drain cleaner. Potassium hydroxide (KOH) is also commonly used. Even in moderate concentrations, these chemicals are very hazardous to skin and should only be used when wearing rubber gloves and goggle-type eye protection. Vinegar is useful for neutralizing sodium hydroxide that gets on your skin, but if sodium hydroxide gets in your eyes it could cause severe burns or blindness. Spray-on oven cleaner is the safest and most convenient way to use sodium hydroxide. Brewers often scorch the bottoms of their brewpots resulting in a black, burned wort area that is difficult to remove for fear of scouring a hole in the pot. The easiest solution is to apply oven cleaner and allow it to dissolve the stain. After the burned-on area has been removed, it is important to thoroughly rinse the area of any oven cleaner residue to prevent subsequent corrosion of the metal.

Sodium hydroxide is very corrosive to aluminum and brass. Copper and stainless steel are generally resistant. Pure sodium hydroxide should not be used to clean aluminum brewpots because the high pH causes the dissolution of the protective oxides, and a subsequent batch of beer might have a metallic taste. Oven cleaner should not affect aluminum adversely if it is used properly.

== Nettoyer votre équipement. ==

'''
Nettoyer le plastique.'''

Il existe essentiellement trois types de plastiques que vous serez amené à nettoyer: le polypropylène blanc et opaque, le polycarbonate transparent et dur, les tubes souples en vinyle transparent. Vous entendrez souvent dire du polypropylène qu'il s'agit d'un plastique de grade alimentaire, tout comme les deux autres. Le polypropylène est utilisé pour les ustensiles de cuisine, seaux de fermentation et raccords. Le polycarbonate est utilisé pour les cannes de transvasement et les tasses à mesurer. Le vinyle est utilisé pour les tubes et les siphons, etc.

La principale chose à garder à l'esprit lorsqu'on nettoie des plastiques est qu'ils sont susceptibles d'absorber les odeurs et la couleur du produit nettoyant que vous utilisez. Si les '''"lessives (dish detergents)"''' sont votre meilleur choix pour le nettoyage en général, les détergents parfumés sont à bannir. L'eau de javel est utile pour le nettoyage lourd, mais l'odeur peut rester et l'eau de javel a tendance à obscurcir les tubes en vinyle. Les nettoyants à base de percabonate ont l'avantage de nettoyer aussi bien que l'eau de javel, sans les odeurs et les assombrissements.

Le lave-vaisselle peut convenir au nettoyage des objets plastiques, à condition que l'eau puisse y entrer. Cependant la chaleur peut déformer les objets en polycarbonate.

'''Nettoyer le verre.'''

Le verre a l'avantage d'être inerte par rapport à tous les produits que vous utiliserez pour le nettoyer. Les seules considérations à prendre en compte sont le risque de casse et la formation d'un dépôt d'oxyde de calcium lorsqu'on utilise de l'eau de javel ou des TSP avec une eau dure. Quand vous aurez à nettoyer vos dames jeannes et vos bouteilles, vous voudrez sûrement utiliser des brosses à bouteilles et dames jeannes qui permettent de nettoyer efficacement l'intérieur.

'''Nettoyer le cuivre.'''

Pour le nettoyage de routine du cuivre et des autres métaux, les nettoyants à base de percabonate comme le PBW sont le meilleur choix. Pour les cas de forte corrosion, l'acide acétique est très efficace, surtout chaud. Il est disponible dans le commerce sous le vocable de vinaigre blanc, à la concentration standard de 5% d'acide acétique par volume. Il est important de n'utiliser uniquement que du vinaigre distillé et non du vinaigre de cidre ou de vin car ils pourraient contenir des cultures de bactéries acétiques vivantes, ce qui est la dernière chose que vous voudriez dans votre bière.

Les brasseurs qui utilisent des refroidisseurs à immersion sont toujours surpris de voir à quel point le serpentin est propre et brillant au sortir de la première immersion dans le moût. Si le refroidisseur n'était pas propre et brillant quand on l'a plongé dans le moût, devinez où ont pu finir la saleté et l'oxydation? Oui, dans la bière. Les oxydes de cuivres sont plus facilement dissouts dans le moût légèrement acide que le cuivre lui-même. En nettoyant les tubes en cuivre avec de l'acide acétique avant la première utilisation et en rinçant avec de l'eau immédiatement après chaque utilisation, le cuivre restera propre, sans oxydation ou dépôts organiques qui peuvent abriter des bactéries. Ainsi, le nettoyage du cuivre avec de l'acide ne devrait plus être nécessaire qu'occasionnellement.

Le meilleur désinfectant pour les refroidisseurs à contre-courant est le Star San'. Il est acide et peut aussi bien être utilisé pour nettoyer le cuivre que pour le désinfecter. On peut le laisser dans le refroidisseur toute une nuit pour nettoyer l'intérieur.

Nettoyer et désinsfecter le cuivre avec des solutions d'eau de javel n'est pas recommandé. Le chlore et les hypochlorites présent dans l'eau de javel engendrent une oxydation et un noircissement du cuivre et du laiton. Si les oxydes entrent en contact avec le moût légèrement acide, ils vont rapidement se dissoudre, pouvant exposer les levures à un niveau toxique de cuivre pendant la fermentation.

'''Nettoyer le laiton.'''

Certains brasseurs utilisent des raccords en laiton, en liaison avec leurs refroidisseurs de moût ou d'autres équipements de brassage et sont préoccupés par le plomb qui est présent dans les alliages en laiton. Une solution de deux volumes de vinaigre blanc pour un volume de peroxyde d'hydrogène (3% en solution standard) va enlever le voile terne et le plomb de la surface de pièces en laiton lorsqu'on les laisse tremper pendant 15 minutes à température ambiante. Le laiton va retrouver une teinte jaune beurre une fois nettoyé. Si la solution commence à tourner au vert, c'est que les pièces ont trempé trop longtemps et que le cuivre contenu dans le laiton commence à se dissoudre. La solution a été contaminée et la pièce doit être relavée dans une nouvelle préparation.

'''Nettoyer l'acier inoxydable et l'aluminium.'''

Pour le nettoyage en général, les détergents doux ou ceux à base de percabonate sont les meilleurs pour l'acier et l'aluminium. L'eau de javel devrait être évitée du fait de son pH élevé qui peut entrainer une corrosion de l'aluminium et à un degré moindre de l'acier inoxydable. Il ne faut pas nettoyer '''l'aluminium "shiny bright"''' ou utiliser de l'eau de javel sur une marmite en aluminium car cela enlève la couche protectrice d'oxydes et peut amener un goût métallique. Ce niveau d'aluminium, détectable, n'est pas dangereux. Il y a plus d'aluminium dans un comprimé d'anti-acide que dans un lot de bière fait dans un pot en aluminium.

Il existe des nettoyants à base d'acide oxalique en droguerie qui sont très efficaces pour le nettoyage des tâches tenaces, dépôts et rouille sur l'acier inoxydable. Ils fonctionnent également bien sur le cuivre. Il y a par exemple Revere Ware Nettoyant Cuivre et Inox, ou Kleen King Nettoyant Inox. Utilisez les en suivant les préconisations du fabricant et en rincez abondamment après.

== Cleaning Your Equipment ==

Cleaning Plastic
There are basically three kinds of plastic that you will be cleaning: opaque white polypropylene, hard clear polycarbonate and clear soft vinyl tubing. You will often hear the polypropylene referred to as "food grade plastic", though all three of these plastics are. Polypropylene is used for utensils, fermenting buckets and fittings. Polycarbonate is used for racking canes and measuring cups. The vinyl tubing is used for siphons and the like.

The main thing to keep in mind when cleaning plastics is that they may adsorb odors and stains from the cleaning products you use. Dish detergents are your best bet for general cleaning, but scented detergents should be avoided. Bleach is useful for heavy duty cleaning, but the odor can remain and bleach tends to cloud vinyl tubing. Percarbonate cleaners have the benefit of cleaning as well as bleach without the odor and clouding problems.

Dishwashers are a convenient way to clean plastic items providing that the water can get inside. Also, the heat might warp polycarbonate items.

Cleaning Glass
Glass has the advantage of being inert to everything you might use to clean it with. The only considerations are the danger of breakage and the potential for stubborn lime deposits when using bleach and TSP in hard water areas. When it comes to cleaning your glass bottles and carboys, you will probably want to use bottle and carboy brushes so you can effectively clean the insides.

Cleaning Copper
For routine cleaning of copper and other metals, percarbonate-based cleaners like PBW are the best choice. For heavily oxidized conditions, acetic acid is very effective, especially when hot. Acetic acid is available in grocery stores as white distilled vinegar at a standard concentration of 5% acetic acid by volume. It is important to use only white distilled vinegar as opposed to cider or wine vinegar because these other types may contain live acetobacteria cultures, which are the last thing you want in your beer.

Brewers who use immersion wort chillers are always surprised how bright and shiny the chiller is the first time it comes out of the wort. If the chiller wasn't bright and shiny when it went into the wort, guess where the grime and oxides ended up? Yep, in your beer. The oxides of copper are more readily dissolved by the mildly acidic wort than is the copper itself. By cleaning copper tubing with acetic acid once before the first use and rinsing with water immediately after each use, the copper will remain clean with no oxide or wort deposits that could harbor bacteria. Cleaning copper with vinegar should only occasionally be necessary.

The best sanitizer for counterflow wort chillers is Star San'. It is acidic and can be used to clean copper as well as sanitize. Star San can be left in the chiller overnight to soak-clean the inside.

Cleaning and sanitizing copper with bleach solutions is not recommended. The chlorine and hypochlorites in bleach cause oxidation and blackening of copper and brass. If the oxides come in contact with the mildly acidic wort, the oxides will quickly dissolve, possibly exposing yeast to unhealthy levels of copper during fermentation.

Cleaning Brass
Some brewers use brass fittings in conjunction with their wort chillers or other brewing equipment and are concerned about the lead that is present in brass alloys. A solution of two parts white vinegar to one part hydrogen peroxide (common 3% solution) will remove tarnish and surface lead from brass parts when they are soaked for 15 minutes at room temperature. The brass will turn a buttery yellow color as it is cleaned. If the solution starts to turn green, then the parts have been soaking too long and the copper in the brass is beginning to dissolve. The solution has become contaminated and the part should be re-cleaned in a fresh solution.

Cleaning Stainless Steel and Aluminum
For general cleaning, mild detergents or percarbonate-based cleaners are best for steel and aluminum. Bleach should be avoided because the high pH of a bleach solution can cause corrosion of aluminum and to a lessor degree of stainless steel. Do not clean aluminum shiny bright or use bleach to clean an aluminum brewpot because this removes the protective oxides and can result in a metallic taste. This detectable level of aluminum is not hazardous. There is more aluminum in a common antacid tablet than would be present in a batch of beer made in an aluminum pot.

There are oxalic acid based cleansers available at the grocery store that are very effective for cleaning stubborn stains, deposits, and rust from stainless. They also work well for copper. One example is Revere Ware Copper and Stainless Cleanser and another is Kleen King Stainless Steel Cleanser. Use according to the manufacturer's directions and rinse thoroughly with water afterwards.

== Sanitizing Your Equipment ==

  

== Record Keeping ==

How to brew/Section 1/Chap 2 : Préparation du brassage

2009-02-17T15:11:11Z

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== La voie pour bien brasser. ==

Il y a trois choses importantes à garder à l'esprit à chaque fois que vous brassez: préparation, désinfection et bonne tenue des dossiers. Une bonne préparation évite les mauvaises surprises. Vous ne voulez pas être à mi-parcours de votre brassage et réaliser que vous n'avez pas de levure. Vous ne voulez pas verser un bon moût dans un fermenteur que vous avez oublié de nettoyer. Nettoyage et désinfection sont une partie de vos préparatifs, mais ils sont les facteurs les plus importants pour assurer le succès du brassin. Au cours d'une interview dans une brasserie à succès, le maître-brasseur me dit ceci: "Un bon brassage c'est 75% de nettoyage". Et je le crois. Enfin, il existe deux types de brasseurs: le chanceux et le cohérent. Le chanceux va parfois produire d'excellents lots, mais tout aussi souvent que des mauvais. Il brasse intuitivement, innovant et expérimentant avec des résultats mitigés. Le cohérent a plus d'excellents brassins que de mauvais. Il peut être innovateur et expérimentateur, la différence étant qu'il prend en note ce qu'il fait et comment il le fait afin de tirer des enseignements de ses actions. De bonnes notes feront la différence entre chance et compétence.

== The Road to Good Brewing ==

There are three important things to keep in mind every time you brew: Preparation, Sanitation, and Good Record Keeping. Good preparation prevents nasty surprises. You don't want to be halfway through your brewing and realize that you don't have any yeast. You don't want to pour good wort into a fermentor that you forgot to clean. Cleaning and Sanitizing are part of your preparation but are the most important factors for assuring a successful batch of beer. During an interview at a very successful brewpub, the head brewer told me, "Good brewing is 75% cleaning." And I believe it. Lastly, there are two types of brewers- lucky and consistent. The lucky brewer will sometimes produce an outstanding batch of beer, but just as often one that is not. He brews from the seat-of-his-pants, innovating and experimenting with mixed results. The consistent brewer has more outstanding batches than poor ones. He may be an innovator and an experimenter, the difference is that he takes note of what he did and how much he did of it so that he can always learn from his results. Good record keeping will make the difference between luck and skill. 

 

== Les préparatifs.==

[[Image:1_2_1_Preparation1.jpg]]

''Figure 16.'' Tous les équipements et les ingrédients du brassin du jour sont poser sur la table et prêts à l'utilisation. Le grain moulu est placé dans une étamine, le tout lié, et le houblon est déposé dans trois bols séparés.

Préparer votre équipement est avant tout une affaire de nettoyage et de désinfection, mais l'organisation est également une part du processus. Pour chaque processus du brassage, une préparation peut être faite pour le rendre plus efficace.

Pensez à ce que vous allez faire:

'''Consulter la recette''' - Faites une liste de vos achats d'ingrédients et des quantités. Planifiez à l'avance comment vous allez les mesurer. Avez-vous besoin de plus de bols ou des tasses à mesurer? Avez-vous une bonne eau du robinet, ou devez-vous en acheter?

'''L'équipement''' - Faites une liste du matériel que vous utilisez et regardez s'il a besoin d'être désinfecté ou nettoyé. N'essayez pas de nettoyer quelque chose à la dernière minute, juste quand vous en avez besoin, vous rechercheriez la difficulté. Utilisez une liste de contrôle pour organiser vos pensées et voir si vous avez négligé quelque chose. Vous pourriez vouloir acheter des ustensiles expressément pour le brassage; ne mélangez pas avec une spatule que vous utilisez souvent pour faire cuire les oignons. Plus d'instructions sur le nettoyage sont données plus loin dans ce chapitre.

'''Tableau 2 - Liste de contrôle du nettoyage et de la désinfection.'''

Marmite _Propre
Cuillère à remuer _Propre
Cuillère à soupe _Propre
Bol de mesure _Propre _Désinfecté
Récipient pour la culture de levure _Propre _Désinfecté
Fermenteur et couvercle _Propre _Désinfecté
Barboteur _Propre _Désinfecté
Thermomètre _Propre _Désinfecté

'''Préparer les levures''' - Cette étape est primordiale, sans levures, vous ne pouvez pas faire de bière. La levure doit être préparée dès le début du brassin (si ce n'est plus tôt) afin de voir si elle est viable et prête à travailler. Si vous avez passé du temps à préparer l'équipement, brasser et que vous n'avez rien pour fermenter, vous allez être très déçu. Voir le chapitre 6 pour des informations détaillées sur la préparation de levure.

'''Bouillir''' - Pesez les différentes additions de houblon et placez les dans des coupes séparées pour les ajouter à différents moments durant l'ébullition. Si vous comptez faire tremper des grains moulus (cf. chapitre 12), alors pesez, emballez et immergez les avant d'ajouter votre extrait dans la marmite.

'''Refroidir après l'ébullition''' - Si vous prévoyez de refroidir le moût en utilisant un bain d'eau, c'est-à-dire placer le pot dans l'évier ou la baignoire, assurez-vous d'avoir assez de glace sous la main pour refroidir rapidement le moût. Un refroidissement rapide après l'ébullition est nécessaire pour aider à prévenir les infections et pour générer une cassure à froid dans le moût. Une cassure précipite les protéines, les polyphénols et les bêta-glucanes, qui sont soupçonnés de contribuer à l'instabilité de bière au cours du stockage. Une bonne cassure à froid réduit également le risque de trouble à froid dans la future bière.

'''La désinfection''' - Tout ce qui touche le moût refroidi doit être désinfecté. Cela comprend le fermenteur, le barboteur, et tous les éléments suivants, en fonction de vos méthodes de transfert: entonnoir, égouttoir, cuillère à remuer, canne de transvasement. Les techniques de désinfection seront discutées plus loin dans le chapitre.

En prenant le temps de préparer votre brassin du jour, le brassage se passera sans accrocs et vous aurez moins tendance à oublier une étape. Nettoyer et désinfecter votre équipement au préalable vous permettra d'accorder plus d'attention aux tâches à accomplir (et peut-être prévenir d'un salissant débordement lors de l'ébullition). Préparez votre levure soit par ré-hydratation et épreuve soit avec un starter qui fera en sorte que le travail de l'après-midi n'aura pas été vain. Tenez vos ingrédients mesurés et visibles permettra d'éviter toutes erreurs dans la recette. Enfin, la préparation de chaque étape du brassage pour tenir son équipement prêt et la planification du processus rendront l'ensemble des opérations plus simples et jouissives. Votre bière en bénéficiera probablement. Comme dans toutes choses, un peu de préparation est un long chemin qui conduit à l'amélioration du résultat final.

== Preparation ==

Figure 16: All the equipment and ingredients for the day's brew are set out on the counter and ready to go. The crushed specialty grain is tied in a muslin grainbag, and the hops have been weighed and put in three separate bowls.

Preparing your brewing equipment is principally a matter of cleaning and sanitizing, but organization is a part of the process too. For each of the brewing processes, some preparation can be done to make the process work better.

Consider what you are going to do:

Check the Recipe - Make a shopping list of your ingredients and amounts. Plan ahead on how you are going to measure them. Do you need extra bowls or measuring cups? Do you have good water out of the tap, or should you buy some?

Equipment - Make a checklist of the equipment you will be using and note whether it needs to be sanitized or only cleaned. Don't try to clean something at the last minute just as you need it, you are inviting trouble. Use a checklist to organize your thoughts and see if you have overlooked anything. You may want to purchase utensils expressly for brewing; don't stir with a spatula that you often use to cook onions. More instruction on cleaning is given later in this chapter.

Table 2 - Cleaning and Sanitizing Checklist

Brewpot _ Clean

Stirring Spoon _ Clean

Tablespoon _ Clean _ Sanitize

Measuring Cup _Clean _ Sanitize

Yeast Starter Jar _ Clean _ Sanitize

Fermentor and Lid _ Clean _ Sanitize

Airlock _ Clean _ Sanitize

Thermometer _ Clean _ Sanitize

Preparing The Yeast - This step is paramount; without yeast, you can not make beer. The yeast should be prepared at the beginning of the brewing session (if not before) so you can tell if it's alive and ready to work beforehand. If you have spent time preparing the equipment and making the wort and then you have nothing to ferment it with, you will be very disappointed. See Chapter 6 for detailed information on yeast preparation.

The Boil - Weigh out your hop additions and place them in separate bowls for the different addition times during the boil. If you are going to steep crushed specialty grain (see Chapter 12), then weigh, package and steep it before adding your extract to the boiling pot.

Cooling After The Boil - If you plan to chill the wort using a water bath, i.e., setting the pot in the sink or the bathtub, make sure you have enough ice on hand to cool the wort quickly. A quick chill from boiling is necessary to help prevent infection and to generate the Cold Break in the wort. A good cold break precipitates proteins, polyphenols and beta glucans which are believed to contribute to beer instability during storage. A good cold break also reduces the amount of chill haze in the final beer.

Sanitizing - Anything that touches the cooled wort must be sanitized. This includes the fermentor, airlock, and any of the following, depending on your transfer methods: Funnel, strainer, stirring spoon and racking cane. Sanitizing techniques are discussed later in this chapter.

By taking the time to prepare for your brewday, the brewing will go smoothly and you will be less likely to forget any steps. Cleaning and sanitizing your equipment beforehand will allow you to pay more attention to your task at hand (and maybe prevent a messy boilover). Preparing your yeast by either re-hydrating and proofing or making a Starter will ensure that the afternoon's work will not have been in vain. Having your ingredients laid out and measured will prevent any mistakes in the recipe. Finally, preparing for each stage of the brewing process by having the equipment ready and the process planned out will make the whole operation simple and keep it fun. Your beer will probably benefit too. As in all things, a little preparation goes a long way to improving the end result.

== La désinfection. ==

La propreté est la principale préoccupation du brasseur. Offrir de bonnes conditions de croissance aux levures dans la bière favorise également la croissance d'autres micro-organismes, en particulier les levures sauvages et les bactéries. La propreté doit être maintenue tout au long de chaque étape du processus de brassage.

[[Image:1_2_2_Sanitation1.jpg]]

''Figure 17.'' Les cellules de levure sont rondes, les vers sont des bactéries. 3000X

La définition et l'objectif de la désinfection sont de réduire le nombre de bactéries et de contaminants à des niveaux négligeables ou gérables. Les termes nettoyage, désinfection et stérilisation sont souvent utilisés de façon interchangeable, mais ne devrait pas l'être. Des objets peuvent être propres, mais pas désinfectés et vice versa. Voici les définitions:

-Nettoyage - Afin d'enlever la saleté, les tâches ou les corps étrangers.
-Désinfection - Pour éliminer ou réduire les mauvais micro-organismes à des niveaux négligeables.
-Stérilisation - Permet d'éliminer toutes formes de vie, spécialement les microorganismes par des moyens chimiques ou physiques.

Le nettoyage est la suppression de toutes les saletés et la crasse d'une surface, éliminant ainsi tous les sites propices aux bactéries. Il est généralement effectué avec un détergent et de l'huile de coude. Aucun des agents de désinfection utilisés par les brasseurs amateurs ne sont capables d'éliminer tous les spores bactériennes et les virus. La majorité de ces agents chimiques nettoient et désinfectent mais ne stérilisent pas. Toutefois, la stérilisation n'est pas nécessaire. Au lieu de se préoccuper de la stérilisation, les brasseurs amateurs peuvent être satisfaits s'ils ont considérablement réduit ces contaminants à des niveaux négligeables.

Tous les désinfectants sont destinés à être utilisés sur des surfaces propres. Leur capacité à éliminer les micro-organismes est réduit par la présence de poussière, de saleté ou de matière organique.
Les dépôts organiques peuvent accueillir des bactéries et empêchent la surface d'être atteinte par le désinfectant. C'est donc à vous de veiller à ce que la surface de l'élément à désinfecter soit aussi propre que possible.

== Sanitation ==

Cleanliness is the foremost concern of the brewer. Providing good growing conditions for the yeast in the beer also provides good growing conditions for other micro-organisms, especially wild yeast and bacteria. Cleanliness must be maintained throughout every stage of the brewing process.

Figure 17: The yeast cells are the round things, the worms are bacteria. 3000X

The definition and objective of sanitization is to reduce bacteria and contaminants to insignificant or manageable levels. The terms clean, sanitize and sterilize are often used interchangeably, but should not be. Items may be clean but not sanitized or vice versa. Here are the definitions:

* Clean - To be free from dirt, stain, or foreign matter.
* Sanitize - To kill/reduce spoiling microorganisms to negligible levels.
* Sterilize - To eliminate all forms of life, especially microorganisms, either by chemical or physical means.

Cleaning is the process of removing all the dirt and grime from a surface, thereby removing all the sites that can harbor bacteria. Cleaning is usually done with a detergent and elbow grease. None of the sanitizing agents used by homebrewers are capable of eliminating all bacterial spores and viruses. The majority of chemical agents homebrewers use will clean and sanitize but not sterilize. However, sterilization is not necessary. Instead of worrying about sterilization, homebrewers can be satisfied if they consistently reduce these contaminants to negligible levels.

All sanitizers are meant to be used on clean surfaces. A sanitizer's ability to kill microorganisms is reduced by the presence of dirt, grime or organic material. Organic deposits can harbor bacteria and shield the surface from being reached by the sanitizer. So it is up to you to make sure the surface of the item to be sanitized is as clean as possible.

== Les produits de nettoyage. ==

[[Image:1_2_3_Cleaning_products1.jpg]]

Le nettoyage requiert une certaine quantité de récurage, brossage, et d'huile de coude. C'est nécessaire car une surface sale ne peut en aucun cas être complètement désinfectée. Les dépôts rugueux peuvent abriter les bactéries qui, à terme, contaminent la bière. La capacité d'un agent de désinfection à éliminer les bactéries est réduite par la présence d'un supplément de matière organique, ainsi un nettoyage préalable est nécessaire pour assurer une désinfection complète. Plusieurs produits de nettoyage à la disposition des brasseurs amateurs sont exposés ci-dessous, ainsi que les recommandations concernant le nettoyage des équipements.

'''Les détergents.'''

Lessives et détergents doivent être utilisés avec précaution lors du nettoyage de vos équipements. Ces produits contiennent souvent des parfums qui peuvent être absorbés par les équipements en plastique et libérés dans la bière. En outre, certaines lessives et détergents ne se rincent pas totalement et laissent parfois un film qui peut donner un goût à la bière. Plusieurs rinçages à l'eau chaude peuvent s'avérer nécessaire pour enlever toutes les traces. Les lessives contenant des phosphates se rincent généralement plus facilement, comme il s'agit de polluants, ils sont progressivement délaissés. Un détergent doux et sans parfum, comme le liquide vaisselle est un bon choix pour la plupart de vos besoins routiniers. Seules les tâches tenaces ou les dépôts brûlés auront besoin de quelque chose de plus puissant.

'''L'eau de javel.'''

L'eau de javel est un des nettoyants les plus polyvalents à la disposition du brasseur amateur. Lors de la dissolution dans l'eau froide, cela forme une solution caustique qui est efficace pour dissoudre les dépôts organiques comme les tâches de nourriture et les résidus de brassage. L'eau de javel est une solution aqueuse de chlore, de chlorures et d'hypochlorites. Tous ces composants chimiques contribuent aux pouvoirs nettoyants et bactéricides de l'eau de javel, mais sont aussi corrosifs pour bon nombre de métaux utilisés pour les équipements brassicoles. Elle ne doit pas être utilisée pour le nettoyage du laiton et du cuivre, car elle provoque un noircissement et une corrosion excessive. Elle peut être utilisée pour nettoyer l'acier inoxydable, mais il faut être prudent pour éviter la corrosion et les piqûres.

Il y a quelques lignes directrices simples à garder à l'esprit lors de l'utilisation de l'eau de javel pour nettoyer l'acier inoxydable:

1. Ne laissez pas le métal en contact avec l'eau chlorée pendant de longues périodes (pas plus d'une heure).

2. Remplissez complètement les récipients pour éviter une corrosion au niveau de l'eau.

3. Après le nettoyage ou la désinfection, rincez les objets avec de l'eau bouillie et séchez les complètement.

'''Les percarbonates.'''

Le percarbonate de sodium est un carbonate de sodium (c'est-à-dire '''"Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda"''') qui a réagi avec du peroxyde d'hydrogène et qui constitue un nettoyant très efficace pour les équipements de brassage. Il se rince facilement. Plusieurs produits (par exemple Straight-A, Powder Brewery Wash, B-Brite, et One-Step) sont approuvés par la FDA ''(Food and Drugs Administration, ndt)'' comme nettoyant dans l'agroalimentaire. One-Step est étiqueté comme un nettoyant léger et un agent de rinçage final; il produit du peroxyde d'hydrogène en solution. Le peroxyde d'hydrogène va désinfecter efficacement les surfaces et les récipients déjà propres. Comme avec tous les désinfectants, l'efficacité du peroxyde d'hydrogène est compromis par la présence de résidus organiques. Utilisez ces nettoyants selon les instructions du fabricant, mais en général, utilisez une cuillère à soupe par gallon (4ml par litre) et rincez après le nettoyage.

A mon avis, les nettoyants à base de percabonates sont le meilleur choix pour nettoyer les équipements, notamment Straight-A de [http://www.ecologiccleansers.com Logic Inc.] et Powder Brewery Wash (PBW) de Five Star Chemicals, Inc. qui sont les meilleurs. Ces produits combinent le métasilicate de sodium avec le percarbonate dans une forme stable qui augmente son efficacité et empêche la corrosion des métaux comme le cuivre et l'aluminium contrairement aux autres solutions alcalines plus agressives.

'''Le phosphate trisodique.'''

Le phosphate trisodique (TSP) et le TSP chloré (CTSP) sont des nettoyants très efficaces contre les dépôts post-fermentation et la forme chlorée est aussi un désinfectant. Les TSP et CTSP deviennent difficiles à trouver mais sont toujours disponibles au rayon peinture des quincailleries (les peintres les utilisent pour laver les murs car ils se rincent complètement). L'usage recommandé est d'une cuillère à soupe par gallon ''(+/- 15gr pour 18.9 litres, ndt)''. On ne devraient pas laisser tremper dans une solution de TSP et CTSP plus d'une heure à cause du dépôt minéral blanc qui se forme parfois sur le verre et le métal et qui nécessite un passage d'acide (vinaigre) pour l'enlever. Ce n'est pas un problème toutefois.

'''Le lave-vaisselle.'''

Utiliser un lave-vaisselle pour nettoyer l'équipement et les bouteilles est une idée répandue parmi les brasseurs amateurs, mais il y a quelques limites:

-L'ouverture étroite des tuyaux, des cannes de transvasement et des bouteilles empêche généralement les jets d'eau et les détergents de nettoyer efficacement l'intérieur.

-Si le détergent atteint l'intérieur, rien n'indique qu'il sera rincé par la suite.

-Les additifs de séchage (Jet Dry, par exemple) peuvent ruiner la prise de mousse d'une bière. Ces additifs déposent un film chimique à la surface des objets pour qu'il soient uniformément mouillés et non sous forme de gouttelettes, pour prévenir des tâches. L'action de mouillage déstabilise les protéines à l'origine de la formation des bulles.

A l'exception des cuillères, des tasses de mesures et des bocaux à large ouverture, il est peut être préférable de n'utiliser le lave-vaisselle que pour une désinfection thermique et non pour laver. Cette dernière sera discutée un peu plus loin dans le chapitre.

'''Le nettoyant pour four.'''

Communément connu sous le vocable de lessive ''(de soude, ndt)'', l'hydroxyde de sodium (NaOH) est le principal ingrédients de la plupart des nettoyants puissants comme pour les fours ou le débouchage. L'hydroxyde de potassium est également couramment utilisé. Même dans des concentrations modérées, ces produits chimiques sont très dangereux pour la peau et doivent être utilisés uniquement avec des gants en caoutchouc et lunettes de protection. Le vinaigre est utile pour neutraliser l'hydroxyde de sodium qui est sur votre peau, mais s'il se retrouve dans vos yeux, cela pourrait causer de graves brûlures voire la cécité.
Le produit pour four en spray est la façon la plus sûre et la plus commode d'utiliser l'hydroxyde de sodium. Les brasseurs font souvent brûler le fond de leur cuve; il en résulte une zone de moût noirci et attaché, qui est difficile à retirer, de peur de trouer le pot. Une fois la zone propre, il est important de rincer rigoureusement cette partie pour éviter une corrosion du métal par la suite.

L'hydroxyde de sodium est très corrosif sur l'aluminium et le laiton. Le cuivre et l'acier inoxydable sont généralement résistants. Pur, il ne doit pas être utilisé pour nettoyer les cuves en aluminium parce que son pH élevé cause la dissolution des oxydes protecteurs, et le lot de bière qui suit pourrait avoir un goût métallique. Le nettoyant pour four ne doit pas affecter l'aluminium s'il est utilisé correctement.

== Cleaning Products ==

Cleaning requires a certain amount of scrubbing, brushing and elbow grease. It is necessary because a dirty surface can never be a completely sanitized one. Grungy deposits can harbor bacteria that will ultimately contaminate your beer. The ability of a sanitizing agent to kill bacteria is reduced by the presence of any extra organic matter, so prior cleaning is necessary to assure complete sanitization. Several cleaning products available to the homebrewer are discussed below. Cleaning recommendations for the equipment you will be using follow.

Detergents
Dish and laundry detergents and cleansers should be used with caution when cleaning your brewing equipment. These products often contain perfumes that can be adsorbed onto plastic equipment and released back into the beer. In addition, some detergents and cleansers do not rinse completely and often leave behind a film that can be tasted in the beer. Several rinses with hot water may be necessary to remove all traces of the detergent. Detergents containing phosphates generally rinse more easily than those without, but because phosphates are pollutants, they are slowly being phased out. A mild unscented dish washing detergent like Ivory is a good choice for most of your routine equipment cleaning needs. Only stubborn stains or burnt-on deposits will require something stronger.

Bleach
Bleach is one of the most versatile cleaners available to the homebrewer. When dissolved in cold water, it forms a caustic solution that is good at breaking up organic deposits like food stains and brewing gunk. Bleach is an aqueous solution of chlorine, chlorides and hypochlorites. These chemical agents all contribute to bleach's bactericidal and cleaning powers, but are also corrosive to a number of metals used in brewing equipment. Bleach should not be used for cleaning brass and copper because it causes blackening and excessive corrosion. Bleach can be used to clean stainless steel, but you need to be careful to prevent corrosion and pitting.

There are a few simple guidelines to keep in mind when using bleach to clean stainless steel.

1. Do not leave the metal in contact with chlorinated water for extended periods of time (no more than an hour).
2. Fill vessels completely so corrosion does not occur at the waterline.
3. After the cleaning or sanitizing treatment, rinse the item with boiled water and dry the item completely.

Percarbonates
Sodium percarbonate is sodium carbonate (i.e. Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda) reacted with hydrogen peroxide and it is a very effective cleaner for all types of brewing equipment. It rinses easily. Several products (e.g. Straight-A, Powder Brewery Wash, B-Brite, and One-Step) are approved by the FDA as cleaners in food-manufacturing facilities. One-Step is labeled as a light cleaner and final rinse agent, and produces hydrogen peroxide in solution. Hydrogen peroxide will effectively sanitize surfaces and containers that are already clean. As with all sanitizers, the effectiveness of hydrogen peroxide as a sanitizing agent is comprimised by organic soil. Use these cleaners according to the manufacturer's instructions, but generally use one tablespoon per gallon (4 ml per liter) and rinse after cleaning.

In my opinion, percarbonate-based cleaners are the best choice for equipment cleaning, and Straight-A from Logic Inc., and Powder Brewery Wash (PBW) from Five Star Chemicals, Inc. are the best of them. These products combine sodium metasilicate with the percarbonate in a stable form which increases its effectivity and prevents the corrosion of metals like copper and aluminum that strong alkaline solutions can cause.

Trisodium Phosphate
Trisodium phosphate (TSP) and chlorinated TSP (CTSP) are very effective cleaners for post-fermentation brewing deposits and the chlorinated form is also a sanitizer. TSP and CTSP are becoming harder to find, but are still available at hardware stores in the paint section. (Painters use it for washing walls because it can be rinsed away completely.) The recommended usage is one tablespoon per gallon of hot water. Solutions of TSP and CTSP should not be left to soak for more than an hour because a white mineral film can sometimes deposit on glass and metal which requires an acid (vinegar) solution to remove. This is not usually a problem however.

Automatic Dishwashers
Using dishwashers to clean equipment and bottles is a popular idea among homebrewers but there are a few limitations:

* The narrow openings of hoses, racking canes and bottles usually prevent the water jets and detergent from effectively cleaning inside.
* If detergent does get inside these items, there is no guarantee that it will get rinsed out again.
* Dishwasher drying additives (Jet Dry, for example) can ruin the head retention of beer. Drying additives work by putting a chemical film on the items that allows them to be fully wetted by the water so droplets don't form; preventing spots. The wetting action destabilizes the proteins that form the bubbles.

With the exceptions of spoons, measuring cups and wide mouth jars, it is probably best to only use automatic dishwashers for heat sanitizing, not cleaning. Heat sanitizing is discussed later in this chapter.

Oven Cleaner
Commonly known as lye, sodium hydroxide (NaOH) is the caustic main ingredient of most heavy-duty cleaners like oven and drain cleaner. Potassium hydroxide (KOH) is also commonly used. Even in moderate concentrations, these chemicals are very hazardous to skin and should only be used when wearing rubber gloves and goggle-type eye protection. Vinegar is useful for neutralizing sodium hydroxide that gets on your skin, but if sodium hydroxide gets in your eyes it could cause severe burns or blindness. Spray-on oven cleaner is the safest and most convenient way to use sodium hydroxide. Brewers often scorch the bottoms of their brewpots resulting in a black, burned wort area that is difficult to remove for fear of scouring a hole in the pot. The easiest solution is to apply oven cleaner and allow it to dissolve the stain. After the burned-on area has been removed, it is important to thoroughly rinse the area of any oven cleaner residue to prevent subsequent corrosion of the metal.

Sodium hydroxide is very corrosive to aluminum and brass. Copper and stainless steel are generally resistant. Pure sodium hydroxide should not be used to clean aluminum brewpots because the high pH causes the dissolution of the protective oxides, and a subsequent batch of beer might have a metallic taste. Oven cleaner should not affect aluminum adversely if it is used properly.

== Cleaning Your Equipment ==

 

== Sanitizing Your Equipment ==

  

== Record Keeping ==

How to brew/Section 1/Chap 2 : Préparation du brassage

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Chrodegang : /* La voie pour bien brasser. */

How to brew/Section 1/Chap 2 : Préparation du brassage

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Chrodegang : /* La voie pour bien brasser. */

How to brew/Section 1/Chap 2 : Préparation du brassage

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Chrodegang : /* La désinfection. */

How to brew/Section 1/Chap 2 : Préparation du brassage

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Chrodegang : /* Sanitation */

How to brew/Section 1/Chap 2 : Préparation du brassage

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Chrodegang : /* Preparation */

How to brew/Section 1/Chap 2 : Préparation du brassage

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Chrodegang : /* Preparation */

How to brew/Section 1/Chap 2 : Préparation du brassage

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Chrodegang : /* The Road to Good Brewing */

How to brew/Section 1/Chap 1 : Cours de brassage accéléré

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Chrodegang : /* Read On! Brew On! */

== What Do I Do? ==

If you are like me, you are probably standing in the kitchen, wanting to get started, your beer kit and equipment on the counter, wondering how long this will take and what to do first. Frankly, the first thing you should do is read all of Section I - Brewing Your First Beer With Extract. This book is going to teach you How To Brew, from the fundamentals to the advanced methods; you won't be confused by conflicting instructions on a beer kit, and you will have an outstanding first batch.

But if you are like me, you probably want to do this right now while you have some time. (It's going to take about 3 hours, depending.) So, in this first chapter, I will walk you through the steps necessary to get your first batch bubbling in the fermentor, and give you an overview of what you will do to ferment and bottle your beer.

The instructions in this chapter may not explain why you are doing each step or even what you are doing. To understand the Whats and Whys of brewing, you will need to read the rest of this book. Each of the chapters in Section I discuss the brewing steps in detail, giving you the purpose behind each step. You will know what you are doing, rather than doing it that way because "that's what it said..." You will know how long to boil the wort, how to really use hops, why to bother cooling the wort, why to bother re-hydrating the yeast, why to wait two weeks before bottling... Get the picture?

But, if you can't wait, this chapter should see you through. Beer production can be broken down into 3 main events: Brew Day, Fermentation, and Bottling Day. If you have questions about terminology or equipment, be sure to review the Glossary and Required Equipment sections via the links at the top of the page.

 

== Brew Day ==

 Equipment Needed Let's review the minimum equipment you will need for this first batch:

a 20 qt. brew pot (large canning pot) large stirring spoon (non-wood) ordinary table spoon measuring cup (preferably Pyrex glass) glass jar (at least 12 oz) fermentor (food-grade plastic bucket or glass carboy) airlock (get from homebrew shop) sanitizer (chlorine bleach or other) thermometer (optional)

 

Recipe Cincinnati Pale Ale Ingredients for a 5 gallon batch

3-4 lb. Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped 2 lb. Amber dry malt extract 12 AAU of bittering hops (any variety) For example, 1 oz. of 12% AA Nugget, or 1.5 oz. of 8% AA Perle 5 AAU of finishing hops (Cascade or other) For example, 1 oz. of 5% Cascade or 1.25 oz. of 4% Liberty 2 packets of dried ale yeast 

 

 Preparation (45 Minutes) 

'''Assemble ingredients.'''

Gather together the ingredients for the brew. You may have purchased a brewing kit at the homebrew shop and it will contain the ingredients needed to brew a particular style of beer. A kit usually consists of malt extract, yeast, and hops. The extract may already be "hopped" and the kit may not include any hops.

If you don't have a kit, then head to a homebrew supply store and buy the ingredients outlined in the recipe here. You will notice that the recipe calls for various quantities of hops measured in AAUs. AAU stands for alpha-acid units. Briefly, an AAU is a unit obtained by multiplying the alpha-acid rating of the hop (a percentage value) by the weight (ounces) that you intend to use. For example, 2 oz of a 6% alpha-acid hop equals 12 AAUs. Every package of hops you buy will list the hop's alpha-acid rating. To figure out how much of a hop you will need for this recipe, just divide the AAU target by the alpha-acid percentage on your hops. For example, 12 AAUs divided by 12 (Nugget hop's alpha-acid rating) equals 1 oz; 12 AAUs divided by 8 (Perle hop's alpha rating) equals 1 1/2 oz. (See Chapter 5 - Hops, for more info.)

 

'''Boil water.'''

You will need at least a gallon of sterile water for a variety of small tasks. Start by boiling about 1 gallon of water for 10 minutes and let it cool, covered, to room temperature.

Table 1 - Cleaning and Sanitizing Checklist Brewpot __ Clean Stirring Spoon __ Clean Tablespoon __ Clean __ Sanitize Measuring Cup __ Clean __ Sanitize Yeast Starter Jar __ Clean __ Sanitize Fermentor and Lid __ Clean __ Sanitize Airlock __ Clean __ Sanitize Thermometer __ Clean __ Sanitize 

 '''Clean and sanitize.'''

It may seem strange to the first-time brewer, but probably the most important thing in brewing is good cleaning and sanitization. Clean all equipment that will be used during the brew with a mild, unscented dish detergent, making sure to rinse well. Some equipment will need to be sanitized for use after the boiling stage. You can easily make a simple sanitizing solution by filling the fermentor bucket with 5 gallons of water and adding 5 tablespoons of chlorine bleach (a concentration equivalent to 1 TBS/gallon, or 4 ml/L). Soak all items that need to be sanitized in this bucket for 20 minutes. After soaking, dump the sanitizing solution and pour in some of the pre-boiled water for a quick rinse to remove any excess sanitizer. Place the small spoon and the thermometer in the yeast starter jar and cover it with plastic wrap. Cover the fermentor with the lid to keep it clean. (See Chapter 2- Preparations, for more info,)

Making Wort- (1 1/2 Hours) Now we begin the fun part of the work, creating the wort. Wort is what brewers call the sweet, amber liquid extracted from malted barley that the yeast will later ferment into beer.

 

'''Boil the brew water.'''

In the brewpot, bring 2 gallons of water to a boil. Pour this water into the fermentor and leave it to cool. Now bring 3 gallons of water to boil in the brewpot. You will be boiling all of the extract in just 3 gallons and adding this concentrated wort to the water already in the fermentor to make the total 5 gallons. (See Chapter - Water for Extract Brewing, for more info.)

Note: If your beer kit includes some crushed specialty grain, you will need to steep that first before adding the extract. (See Chapter 13 - Steeping Specialty Grain, for more info.)

 

'''Rehydrate the dried yeast.'''

Although many people skip this step with fair results, re-hydrating it assures the best results. While you are waiting for the brew water to boil, rehydrate two packets of dried ale yeast. Put 1 cup of warm (95-105°F, 35-40°C), preboiled water into your sanitized jar and stir in the yeast. Cover with plastic wrap and wait 15 minutes.

 

Next, "proof" the yeast. Start by adding one teaspoon of malt extract or table sugar to a small amount of water (1/4 cup, for example) and boil it to sanitize. (A microwave oven is good for this step.) Allow the sugar solution to cool and then add it to the yeast jar. Cover and place in a warm area out of direct sunlight. Check after 30 minutes, it should be exhibiting some signs of activity - some foaming and/or churning. If it just seems to sit on the bottom of the jar, then it is probably dead. Repeat the rehydration procedure with more yeast. (See Chapter 6 - Yeast, for more info.)

 

'''Add malt extract.'''

When the water in the brewpot is boiling, turn off the stove and stir in the malt extract. Be sure the extract is completely dissolved (if your malt extract is the dry variety, make sure there are no clumps; if the extract is syrup, make sure that none is stuck to the bottom of the pot). Next, turn the heat back on and resume the boil. Stir the wort regularly during the boil to be sure that it doesn't scorch.

'''Add hops.'''

If you are using unhopped extract, add the first (bittering) hop addition and begin timing the hour-long boil.(See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.)

 

'''Watch for boilovers.'''

As the wort boils, foam will form on the surface. This foam will persist until the wort goes through the "hot break" stage . The wort will easily boil over during this foaming stage, so stay close by and stir frequently . Blow on it and turn the heat down if it begins to boil over. Put a few copper pennies into the pot to help prevent boilovers.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling for more info.)

'''Add finishing hops (optional).'''

If you are using unhopped malt extract or want to add more character to hopped extract, add finishing hops during the last 15 minutes of the hour-long boil. (See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.)

'''Shut down the boil.'''

The boil time for extract beers depends on two things: waiting for the "hot break" (See Step 8) and boiling for hop additions. In a nutshell, if you are using hopped extract without any added hops then you only need to boil through the hot break stage, about 15 minutes. With some extracts, the hot break will be very weak, and you may have little foam to begin with. If you are using hopped extract but adding flavoring or aroma hops, then you will probably want to boil for 30 minutes. If you are using unhopped extract, then you will need to add hops for bittering and should boil for an hour. (See Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits, Chapter 5 - Hops, and Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.)

 

'''Cool the wort.'''

After the boil, the wort must be cooled to yeast pitching temperature (65-90 °F [18-32 °C]) as quickly as possible. To do this, immerse the pot in a cold water bath. A sink, bathtub, or a handy snowbank all work well. Be sure to keep the lid on the pot while cooling to prevent any cooling water or other potential contaminants from getting in.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.)

 

== Fermentation ==

The science of fermentation is discussed in Chapter 8 - Fermentation. Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Batch, walks you through the application of that science, so that from 10 ft. away, you will be able to perspicaciously inform curious onlookers that the beer is in the Adaptive, Attenuative, or Conditioning phase of activity.

'''Pitch the yeast.'''

Pour the rehydrated yeast solution into the fermentation bucket.

'''Add cooled wort.'''

Pour the cooled wort into the fermentation bucket "aggressively," so that it splashes and churns in the bucket. This action adds the oxygen yeast need for growth. This is the only time during the brewing process that you want the beer to be aerated or exposed to oxygen. All other transfers should be done "quietly," with a sanitized siphon and very little disturbance in the flow and minimal contact with the air.If you had added hops during the boil, you can remove them during this step by pouring the wort into the fermentor through a strainer. It is not necessary to remove the hops, however.

 

How to Siphon When racking or bottling , you cannot start a siphon by sucking on it or you will contaminate and sour the batch with bacteria from your mouth.

All parts of the siphon (racking cane, tubing, and cutoff valve or bottle filler) need to be sanitized, especially the inside. After sanitizing, leave the siphon full of sanitizer and carefully place the racking cane in your beer. Release the clamp/valve or your clean-and-sanitized thumb and allow the sanitizer to drain into a jar. Make sure the outlet is lower than the fermenter, or you will drain the sanitizer into your beer.

As the sanitizer drains, it will draw the beer into the siphon and you can stop and transfer the outlet to your bottling bucket or bottles. Thus you can siphon without risk of contamination. 

 '''Store the fermentor.'''

Put the lid tightly on the fermentor and carry it to a secure location where it will be undisturbed for two weeks. Choose a location that has a stable temperature of 65-70 °F (18-21 °C). A warmer temperature of 75 °F (24 °C) is okay, but above 80 °F (26 °C) the flavor of the beer will be affected. As soon as you have finished moving it, insert the airlock.

 

'''Leave it alone!'''

After about 24 hours, the airlock will be bubbling steadily, the exciting evidence of fermentation. The fermentation will proceed like this for two to four days, depending on the conditions of your fermentation. The activity will decrease as most of the malt sugars are consumed by the yeast, though the yeast will continue to ferment the beer long after the bubbling diminishes. Leave the beer in the fermentor for a total of two weeks.

'''Clean Up.'''

Now is the time to wash out your brewpot and other equipment. Only use mild unscented detergents, or the cleaners recommended in Chapter 2, and rinse well.

 

== Le jour de l'embouteillage. ==

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day1.jpg]]

Le deuxième grand jour dans votre vie de brasseur arrive deux semaines plus tard, après la fin de la fermentation. Vous retrouverez les données esquissées ci-dessous dans le chapitre 11 - Amorçage et embouteillage. Pour ce faire, vous devez avoir:

-48 (12oz [33cl.]) bouteilles
-Un écouvillon (voire une brosse de cuisine ou de ménage)
-Une capsuleuse (en vente en magasin spécialisé)
-Des capsules (en vente en magasin spécialisé)
-Un seau (fondamentalement, un seau équipé d'un robinet et d'un remplisseur de bouteille)
-Une canne de transvasement/siphon/remplisseur de bouteilles
-Du sucre (4-5oz [113-142gr] par volume, ''soit 5.9-7.5gr/litres [ndt]'')

'''1. Préparez vos bouteilles.''' Un brassin typique de 5 gallons [18.9 litres] requière deux caisses (48) de bouteilles de 12oz [33cl.] pour l'embouteillage. Il faut nettoyer et désinfecter consciencieusement les bouteilles avant usage. Si vous utilisez de vieilles bouteilles, vérifiez qu'il n'y ait pas de saletés ou de moisissures à l'intérieur. Elles doivent être brossées avec un écouvillon pour qu'elles soient réellement propre. On nettoie d'abord pour désinfecter ensuite.

'''2. Préparez vos capsules.''' Les capsules doivent être désinfectées avant usage, la meilleur manière étant de les plonger dans un liquide désinfectant. Certains brasseurs utilisent des bouteilles à couronnes (style Groelsch). La partie en céramique peut être désinfectée avec les bouteilles. Les joints en caoutchouc peuvent être désinfectés comme les capsules de bouteille.

'''3. Préparez votre sucre d'amorçage.''' Nous ajoutons une solution d'amorçage juste avant la mise en bouteille pour permettre à la bière de carbonater en bouteille. Faites bouillir 3/4 de tasse (4-5oz [113-142gr] par volume) de sucre blanc ou 2/3 de tasse (3.8-4.8oz [107-136gr] par volume) de sucre de canne dans deux tasses d'eau. Couvrez la casserole et laissez refroidir.

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day2.jpg]]

'''4. Mélangez la bière et le sucre d'amorçage.''' La meilleur méthode est d'utiliser un récipient séparé, de la même contenance que votre fermenteur, comme "seau d'embouteillage". Nettoyez le, désinfectez le et versez le sirop au fond. Ensuite, siphonnez la bière du fermenteur vers le seau. Il faut éviter de verser simplement dans le fût, ou d'éclabousser en siphonnant. Pour cela, placez le bout du siphon sous la surface de la bière pour le remplir. Le mouvement tourbillonnant de la bière à son entrée dans le seau sera suffisant pour mélanger uniformément le sirop et la bière, sans l'aérer.

Si vous n'avez pas de seau d'embouteillage, vous pouvez verser doucement le sirop dans le fermenteur et remuer lentement. Laissez reposer 15-30 minutes pour que les sédiments retombent. Il ne reste plus qu'à fixer un remplisseur à votre siphon pour embouteiller.

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day3.jpg]] [[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day4.jpg]]

'''5. Les bouteilles.''' Remplissez avec précaution les bouteilles, placez une capsule désinfectée sur chacune d'elles avant de verrouiller le tout avec une capsuleuse.

'''6. Entreposez les bouteilles.''' Placez les bouteilles à l'abri de la lumière et à température ambiante (65-75°F [18-24°C]). La carbonatation va prendre environ deux semaines. Les bouteilles auront une fine couche de levures dans le fonds.

== Bottling Day ==

 The second big day in your career as a homebrewer comes two weeks later, after fermentation is complete. Everything outlined below is thoroughly discussed in Chapter 11 - Priming and Bottling. To bottle your beer, you will need:

48 (12-oz) bottles bottle brush (kitchen or household cleaning variety is OK) bottle capper (from homebrew shop) bottle caps (from homebrew shop) bottling bucket (basically another fermentor bucket with a spigot and bottle filler attached) racking cane/siphon/bottle filler (from homebrew shop) Sugar (4-5 oz by weight)

'''Prepare your bottles'''

A typical 5-gallon batch requires two cases (48) of 12-oz bottles for bottling. Thoroughly clean and sanitize the bottles before use. If you are using old bottles, check them inside for dirt or mold deposits. They may need to be scrubbed with a bottle brush to get them really clean. Always clean first, then sanitize.

'''Prepare your bottle caps'''

Bottle caps must be sanitized before use, and the best way is to soak them in sanitizing solution. Some brewers use flip-top (Groelsch style) bottles. The ceramic part of the flip tops can be sanitized along with the bottles. The rubber seals can be sanitized like the bottle caps.

'''Prepare your priming sugar'''

We add a priming solution just before bottling to provide carbonation to the beer in the bottle. Boil 3/4 cup (4-5 oz by weight) of corn sugar or 2/3 cup (3.8-4.8 oz by weight) of cane sugar in two cups of water. Cover the pan and allow it to cool.

 

'''Combine beer and priming sugar'''

The best method for preparing the beer and priming sugar solution is to use a separate container the same size as your fermentor as a "bottling bucket." Clean and sanitize it and pour the priming solution into it. Next, siphon the beer from the fermentor into the bottling bucket. Don't simply pour the beer into the bucket, and don't let the beer splash as you siphon it in. Instead, put the end of the siphon under the surface of the beer as it fills. The swirling motion of the beer as it enters the bucket will be sufficient to evenly mix the priming solution into the beer without aeration.

If you don't have a bottling bucket, you can gently pour the priming solution into the fermentor and gently stir it. Allow the sediment in the fermentor to settle for 15-30 minutes before proceeding. You can fill the bottles using the bottle filler attachment on your siphon.

 

'''Bottle'''

Carefully fill the bottles with the primed beer, place a sanitized bottle cap on each bottle, and crimp it using the bottle capper. At this stage it is helpful to have a friend operate the capper while you fill the bottles.

 

 

 

'''Store the bottles'''

Place the capped bottles out of the light in a warm (room temperature) environment (65-75 °F [18-24 °C]). The bottles will take about two weeks to carbonate. The bottles will have a thin layer of yeast on the bottom.

 

 

== Le jour de la dégustation. ==

[[Image:1_1_4_Serving_day1.jpg]]

Enfin, vous pouvez déguster les fruits de vos efforts. Cela a duré environ un mois, et vous êtes prêt à ouvrir votre première bouteille afin de voir quel merveilleuse bière vous avez créé. Au cours des deux dernières semaines, les levures encore en suspension dans la bière ont consommé le sucre d'amorçage, créant juste assez de CO2 pour carbonater la bière à la perfection.

Vous n'avez peut être pas su attendre si longtemps et avez déjà ouvert une bouteille. Vous avez sans doute remarqué que la bière n'était pas complètement carbonatée ou bien en donnait l'apparence, mais sans l'endurance. La bière avait probablement un goût "vert", signe qu'elle était jeune. Les deux semaines de garde renforcent non seulement la carbonatation, mais permettent également d'harmoniser les saveurs.

'''1. Refroidir sa bière.''' La bière n'a pas besoin d'être stockée au frais. Elle se conserve environ 6 mois, cela dépendant du niveau d'exposition à l'oxygène lors de la dernière étape de fermentation et de l'embouteillage. Mais vous voudrez probablement la rafraîchir avant de la servir. La température optimale de service dépend du style, variant de 40 à 55°F [4-12°C]. En général, plus la bière est sombre, plus elle sera servie chambrée.

'''2. Verser la bière.''' Pour verser la bière sans avoir les levures dans le verre, inclinez doucement la bouteille pour ne pas remuer la couche de levure au fond de la bouteille. Avec la pratique, vous serez capable de vider la bouteille en ne laissant qu'un quart de pouce ''[7mm, ndt]'', sans verser les levures dans le verre.

'''3. Savourer les flaveurs.''' Finalement, prenez une bonne gorgée et savourez la bière que vous avez créé. Ne vous pressez pas -il en reste suffisamment (47 bouteilles, en fait). Prenez le temps d'évaluer les flaveurs, la qualité de l'amertume, sa douceur et son niveau de carbonatation. Ces observations sont les premières étapes pour apprécier une bière et créer vos propres recettes.

== Serving Day ==

 At last, you get to sample the fruit of your efforts. It's been about a month, and you are ready to open your first bottle and see what kind of wonderful beer you have created. During the past two weeks, the yeast still swimming around in the beer have consumed the priming sugar, creating just enough carbon dioxide to carbonate your beer perfectly.

OK, so maybe you couldn't wait this long and you already opened a bottle. You may have noticed the beer wasn't fully carbonated or that it seemed carbonated but the bubbles had no staying power. You may have also noticed a "green" flavor. That flavor is the sign of a young beer. The two-week "conditioning" period not only adds carbonation but also gives the beer flavors time to meld and balance out.

'''Chill your beer'''

The bottled beer does not need to be stored cold. It will keep for approximately six months, depending on how well you managed to avoid exposure to oxygen during the last stage of fermentation and the bottling process. You will probably want to chill it before serving, however. The optimal temperature for serving beer depends on the style, varying from 40-55°F (4-12°C). In general, the darker the beer, the warmer you serve it.

'''Pouring your beer'''

To pour the beer without getting yeast in your glass, tip the bottle slowly to avoid disturbing the yeast layer on the bottom of the bottle. With practice, you will be able to pour everything but the last quarter inch of beer without getting any yeast in your glass.

'''Savor the flavor'''

Finally, take a deep draught and savor the flavor of the beer you have created. Don't rush it - there's plenty more (47 bottles, in fact). Take time to evaluate the flavor, its bitterness qualities, its sweetness, the level of carbonation. These observations are your first steps to beer appreciation and designing your own recipes.

== Continuez à lire! Continuez de brasser! ==

Si vous voulez en apprendre plus sur le brassage -comment cela fonctionne, pourquoi cela marche, comment prendre du plaisir à créer vos propres recettes et assimiler les techniques avancées- alors je vous encourage à continuer à lire. Les prochains chapitres de ce livre vous guideront à nouveau au travers du brassage d'extraits, mais cette fois-ci avec plus d'explications. Ils comprennent des descriptions des principales variétés de houblons, de levures et de malts qui feront de chaque brassage et de chaque bière un moment unique. Dans les derniers chapitres, je vous apprendrai à brasser à partir du début, sans extraits, en utilisant l'orge malté lui-même. Ce type de brassage vous permet de vraiment contrôler le produit final, et beaucoup de brasseurs trouvent dans le "tout-grain" la manière la plus satisfaisante de brasser.

J'espère sincèrement que ce livre vous apportera le même plaisir et le même enthousiasme pour ce passe-temps que je ne l'ai éprouvé, et qu'il vous permettra de brasser quelques extraordinaires bières.

Le chapitre suivant décrit les préparatifs du brassage plus en détail. Une bonne préparation est l'étape la plus importante pour assurer le succès d'un brassin.

== Read On! Brew On! ==

If you want to learn more about brewing beer - how it works, why it works, and how to have fun creating your own recipes and taking on advanced techniques - then I encourage you to keep reading. The next chapters in this book will lead you through extract brewing again, but this time with more explanation. They include descriptions of the great variety of hops, yeast strains, and malts that can make each brewing session and every beer unique. In later chapters, I will teach you how to brew beer from scratch, without extracts, using the malted barley itself. This kind of brewing really puts you in control of the final product, and many brewers find this "all-grain" type of brewing to be the most satisfying.

It is my sincere hope that this book will enable you to derive the same sense of fun and enthusiasm for this hobby that I have experienced, and that it will enable you to brew some really outstanding beer.

The next chapter describes brewing preparation in more detail. Good preparation is the most important step to assuring a successful batch.

How to brew/Section 1/Chap 1 : Cours de brassage accéléré

2009-02-16T10:43:49Z

Chrodegang : /* Continuez à lire! Continuez de brasser! */

== What Do I Do? ==

If you are like me, you are probably standing in the kitchen, wanting to get started, your beer kit and equipment on the counter, wondering how long this will take and what to do first. Frankly, the first thing you should do is read all of Section I - Brewing Your First Beer With Extract. This book is going to teach you How To Brew, from the fundamentals to the advanced methods; you won't be confused by conflicting instructions on a beer kit, and you will have an outstanding first batch.

But if you are like me, you probably want to do this right now while you have some time. (It's going to take about 3 hours, depending.) So, in this first chapter, I will walk you through the steps necessary to get your first batch bubbling in the fermentor, and give you an overview of what you will do to ferment and bottle your beer.

The instructions in this chapter may not explain why you are doing each step or even what you are doing. To understand the Whats and Whys of brewing, you will need to read the rest of this book. Each of the chapters in Section I discuss the brewing steps in detail, giving you the purpose behind each step. You will know what you are doing, rather than doing it that way because "that's what it said..." You will know how long to boil the wort, how to really use hops, why to bother cooling the wort, why to bother re-hydrating the yeast, why to wait two weeks before bottling... Get the picture?

But, if you can't wait, this chapter should see you through. Beer production can be broken down into 3 main events: Brew Day, Fermentation, and Bottling Day. If you have questions about terminology or equipment, be sure to review the Glossary and Required Equipment sections via the links at the top of the page.

 

== Brew Day ==

 Equipment Needed Let's review the minimum equipment you will need for this first batch:

a 20 qt. brew pot (large canning pot) large stirring spoon (non-wood) ordinary table spoon measuring cup (preferably Pyrex glass) glass jar (at least 12 oz) fermentor (food-grade plastic bucket or glass carboy) airlock (get from homebrew shop) sanitizer (chlorine bleach or other) thermometer (optional)

 

Recipe Cincinnati Pale Ale Ingredients for a 5 gallon batch

3-4 lb. Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped 2 lb. Amber dry malt extract 12 AAU of bittering hops (any variety) For example, 1 oz. of 12% AA Nugget, or 1.5 oz. of 8% AA Perle 5 AAU of finishing hops (Cascade or other) For example, 1 oz. of 5% Cascade or 1.25 oz. of 4% Liberty 2 packets of dried ale yeast 

 

 Preparation (45 Minutes) 

'''Assemble ingredients.'''

Gather together the ingredients for the brew. You may have purchased a brewing kit at the homebrew shop and it will contain the ingredients needed to brew a particular style of beer. A kit usually consists of malt extract, yeast, and hops. The extract may already be "hopped" and the kit may not include any hops.

If you don't have a kit, then head to a homebrew supply store and buy the ingredients outlined in the recipe here. You will notice that the recipe calls for various quantities of hops measured in AAUs. AAU stands for alpha-acid units. Briefly, an AAU is a unit obtained by multiplying the alpha-acid rating of the hop (a percentage value) by the weight (ounces) that you intend to use. For example, 2 oz of a 6% alpha-acid hop equals 12 AAUs. Every package of hops you buy will list the hop's alpha-acid rating. To figure out how much of a hop you will need for this recipe, just divide the AAU target by the alpha-acid percentage on your hops. For example, 12 AAUs divided by 12 (Nugget hop's alpha-acid rating) equals 1 oz; 12 AAUs divided by 8 (Perle hop's alpha rating) equals 1 1/2 oz. (See Chapter 5 - Hops, for more info.)

 

'''Boil water.'''

You will need at least a gallon of sterile water for a variety of small tasks. Start by boiling about 1 gallon of water for 10 minutes and let it cool, covered, to room temperature.

Table 1 - Cleaning and Sanitizing Checklist Brewpot __ Clean Stirring Spoon __ Clean Tablespoon __ Clean __ Sanitize Measuring Cup __ Clean __ Sanitize Yeast Starter Jar __ Clean __ Sanitize Fermentor and Lid __ Clean __ Sanitize Airlock __ Clean __ Sanitize Thermometer __ Clean __ Sanitize 

 '''Clean and sanitize.'''

It may seem strange to the first-time brewer, but probably the most important thing in brewing is good cleaning and sanitization. Clean all equipment that will be used during the brew with a mild, unscented dish detergent, making sure to rinse well. Some equipment will need to be sanitized for use after the boiling stage. You can easily make a simple sanitizing solution by filling the fermentor bucket with 5 gallons of water and adding 5 tablespoons of chlorine bleach (a concentration equivalent to 1 TBS/gallon, or 4 ml/L). Soak all items that need to be sanitized in this bucket for 20 minutes. After soaking, dump the sanitizing solution and pour in some of the pre-boiled water for a quick rinse to remove any excess sanitizer. Place the small spoon and the thermometer in the yeast starter jar and cover it with plastic wrap. Cover the fermentor with the lid to keep it clean. (See Chapter 2- Preparations, for more info,)

Making Wort- (1 1/2 Hours) Now we begin the fun part of the work, creating the wort. Wort is what brewers call the sweet, amber liquid extracted from malted barley that the yeast will later ferment into beer.

 

'''Boil the brew water.'''

In the brewpot, bring 2 gallons of water to a boil. Pour this water into the fermentor and leave it to cool. Now bring 3 gallons of water to boil in the brewpot. You will be boiling all of the extract in just 3 gallons and adding this concentrated wort to the water already in the fermentor to make the total 5 gallons. (See Chapter - Water for Extract Brewing, for more info.)

Note: If your beer kit includes some crushed specialty grain, you will need to steep that first before adding the extract. (See Chapter 13 - Steeping Specialty Grain, for more info.)

 

'''Rehydrate the dried yeast.'''

Although many people skip this step with fair results, re-hydrating it assures the best results. While you are waiting for the brew water to boil, rehydrate two packets of dried ale yeast. Put 1 cup of warm (95-105°F, 35-40°C), preboiled water into your sanitized jar and stir in the yeast. Cover with plastic wrap and wait 15 minutes.

 

Next, "proof" the yeast. Start by adding one teaspoon of malt extract or table sugar to a small amount of water (1/4 cup, for example) and boil it to sanitize. (A microwave oven is good for this step.) Allow the sugar solution to cool and then add it to the yeast jar. Cover and place in a warm area out of direct sunlight. Check after 30 minutes, it should be exhibiting some signs of activity - some foaming and/or churning. If it just seems to sit on the bottom of the jar, then it is probably dead. Repeat the rehydration procedure with more yeast. (See Chapter 6 - Yeast, for more info.)

 

'''Add malt extract.'''

When the water in the brewpot is boiling, turn off the stove and stir in the malt extract. Be sure the extract is completely dissolved (if your malt extract is the dry variety, make sure there are no clumps; if the extract is syrup, make sure that none is stuck to the bottom of the pot). Next, turn the heat back on and resume the boil. Stir the wort regularly during the boil to be sure that it doesn't scorch.

'''Add hops.'''

If you are using unhopped extract, add the first (bittering) hop addition and begin timing the hour-long boil.(See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.)

 

'''Watch for boilovers.'''

As the wort boils, foam will form on the surface. This foam will persist until the wort goes through the "hot break" stage . The wort will easily boil over during this foaming stage, so stay close by and stir frequently . Blow on it and turn the heat down if it begins to boil over. Put a few copper pennies into the pot to help prevent boilovers.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling for more info.)

'''Add finishing hops (optional).'''

If you are using unhopped malt extract or want to add more character to hopped extract, add finishing hops during the last 15 minutes of the hour-long boil. (See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.)

'''Shut down the boil.'''

The boil time for extract beers depends on two things: waiting for the "hot break" (See Step 8) and boiling for hop additions. In a nutshell, if you are using hopped extract without any added hops then you only need to boil through the hot break stage, about 15 minutes. With some extracts, the hot break will be very weak, and you may have little foam to begin with. If you are using hopped extract but adding flavoring or aroma hops, then you will probably want to boil for 30 minutes. If you are using unhopped extract, then you will need to add hops for bittering and should boil for an hour. (See Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits, Chapter 5 - Hops, and Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.)

 

'''Cool the wort.'''

After the boil, the wort must be cooled to yeast pitching temperature (65-90 °F [18-32 °C]) as quickly as possible. To do this, immerse the pot in a cold water bath. A sink, bathtub, or a handy snowbank all work well. Be sure to keep the lid on the pot while cooling to prevent any cooling water or other potential contaminants from getting in.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.)

 

== Fermentation ==

The science of fermentation is discussed in Chapter 8 - Fermentation. Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Batch, walks you through the application of that science, so that from 10 ft. away, you will be able to perspicaciously inform curious onlookers that the beer is in the Adaptive, Attenuative, or Conditioning phase of activity.

'''Pitch the yeast.'''

Pour the rehydrated yeast solution into the fermentation bucket.

'''Add cooled wort.'''

Pour the cooled wort into the fermentation bucket "aggressively," so that it splashes and churns in the bucket. This action adds the oxygen yeast need for growth. This is the only time during the brewing process that you want the beer to be aerated or exposed to oxygen. All other transfers should be done "quietly," with a sanitized siphon and very little disturbance in the flow and minimal contact with the air.If you had added hops during the boil, you can remove them during this step by pouring the wort into the fermentor through a strainer. It is not necessary to remove the hops, however.

 

How to Siphon When racking or bottling , you cannot start a siphon by sucking on it or you will contaminate and sour the batch with bacteria from your mouth.

All parts of the siphon (racking cane, tubing, and cutoff valve or bottle filler) need to be sanitized, especially the inside. After sanitizing, leave the siphon full of sanitizer and carefully place the racking cane in your beer. Release the clamp/valve or your clean-and-sanitized thumb and allow the sanitizer to drain into a jar. Make sure the outlet is lower than the fermenter, or you will drain the sanitizer into your beer.

As the sanitizer drains, it will draw the beer into the siphon and you can stop and transfer the outlet to your bottling bucket or bottles. Thus you can siphon without risk of contamination. 

 '''Store the fermentor.'''

Put the lid tightly on the fermentor and carry it to a secure location where it will be undisturbed for two weeks. Choose a location that has a stable temperature of 65-70 °F (18-21 °C). A warmer temperature of 75 °F (24 °C) is okay, but above 80 °F (26 °C) the flavor of the beer will be affected. As soon as you have finished moving it, insert the airlock.

 

'''Leave it alone!'''

After about 24 hours, the airlock will be bubbling steadily, the exciting evidence of fermentation. The fermentation will proceed like this for two to four days, depending on the conditions of your fermentation. The activity will decrease as most of the malt sugars are consumed by the yeast, though the yeast will continue to ferment the beer long after the bubbling diminishes. Leave the beer in the fermentor for a total of two weeks.

'''Clean Up.'''

Now is the time to wash out your brewpot and other equipment. Only use mild unscented detergents, or the cleaners recommended in Chapter 2, and rinse well.

 

== Le jour de l'embouteillage. ==

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day1.jpg]]

Le deuxième grand jour dans votre vie de brasseur arrive deux semaines plus tard, après la fin de la fermentation. Vous retrouverez les données esquissées ci-dessous dans le chapitre 11 - Amorçage et embouteillage. Pour ce faire, vous devez avoir:

-48 (12oz [33cl.]) bouteilles
-Un écouvillon (voire une brosse de cuisine ou de ménage)
-Une capsuleuse (en vente en magasin spécialisé)
-Des capsules (en vente en magasin spécialisé)
-Un seau (fondamentalement, un seau équipé d'un robinet et d'un remplisseur de bouteille)
-Une canne de transvasement/siphon/remplisseur de bouteilles
-Du sucre (4-5oz [113-142gr] par volume, ''soit 5.9-7.5gr/litres [ndt]'')

'''1. Préparez vos bouteilles.''' Un brassin typique de 5 gallons [18.9 litres] requière deux caisses (48) de bouteilles de 12oz [33cl.] pour l'embouteillage. Il faut nettoyer et désinfecter consciencieusement les bouteilles avant usage. Si vous utilisez de vieilles bouteilles, vérifiez qu'il n'y ait pas de saletés ou de moisissures à l'intérieur. Elles doivent être brossées avec un écouvillon pour qu'elles soient réellement propre. On nettoie d'abord pour désinfecter ensuite.

'''2. Préparez vos capsules.''' Les capsules doivent être désinfectées avant usage, la meilleur manière étant de les plonger dans un liquide désinfectant. Certains brasseurs utilisent des bouteilles à couronnes (style Groelsch). La partie en céramique peut être désinfectée avec les bouteilles. Les joints en caoutchouc peuvent être désinfectés comme les capsules de bouteille.

'''3. Préparez votre sucre d'amorçage.''' Nous ajoutons une solution d'amorçage juste avant la mise en bouteille pour permettre à la bière de carbonater en bouteille. Faites bouillir 3/4 de tasse (4-5oz [113-142gr] par volume) de sucre blanc ou 2/3 de tasse (3.8-4.8oz [107-136gr] par volume) de sucre de canne dans deux tasses d'eau. Couvrez la casserole et laissez refroidir.

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day2.jpg]]

'''4. Mélangez la bière et le sucre d'amorçage.''' La meilleur méthode est d'utiliser un récipient séparé, de la même contenance que votre fermenteur, comme "seau d'embouteillage". Nettoyez le, désinfectez le et versez le sirop au fond. Ensuite, siphonnez la bière du fermenteur vers le seau. Il faut éviter de verser simplement dans le fût, ou d'éclabousser en siphonnant. Pour cela, placez le bout du siphon sous la surface de la bière pour le remplir. Le mouvement tourbillonnant de la bière à son entrée dans le seau sera suffisant pour mélanger uniformément le sirop et la bière, sans l'aérer.

Si vous n'avez pas de seau d'embouteillage, vous pouvez verser doucement le sirop dans le fermenteur et remuer lentement. Laissez reposer 15-30 minutes pour que les sédiments retombent. Il ne reste plus qu'à fixer un remplisseur à votre siphon pour embouteiller.

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day3.jpg]] [[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day4.jpg]]

'''5. Les bouteilles.''' Remplissez avec précaution les bouteilles, placez une capsule désinfectée sur chacune d'elles avant de verrouiller le tout avec une capsuleuse.

'''6. Entreposez les bouteilles.''' Placez les bouteilles à l'abri de la lumière et à température ambiante (65-75°F [18-24°C]). La carbonatation va prendre environ deux semaines. Les bouteilles auront une fine couche de levures dans le fonds.

== Bottling Day ==

 The second big day in your career as a homebrewer comes two weeks later, after fermentation is complete. Everything outlined below is thoroughly discussed in Chapter 11 - Priming and Bottling. To bottle your beer, you will need:

48 (12-oz) bottles bottle brush (kitchen or household cleaning variety is OK) bottle capper (from homebrew shop) bottle caps (from homebrew shop) bottling bucket (basically another fermentor bucket with a spigot and bottle filler attached) racking cane/siphon/bottle filler (from homebrew shop) Sugar (4-5 oz by weight)

'''Prepare your bottles'''

A typical 5-gallon batch requires two cases (48) of 12-oz bottles for bottling. Thoroughly clean and sanitize the bottles before use. If you are using old bottles, check them inside for dirt or mold deposits. They may need to be scrubbed with a bottle brush to get them really clean. Always clean first, then sanitize.

'''Prepare your bottle caps'''

Bottle caps must be sanitized before use, and the best way is to soak them in sanitizing solution. Some brewers use flip-top (Groelsch style) bottles. The ceramic part of the flip tops can be sanitized along with the bottles. The rubber seals can be sanitized like the bottle caps.

'''Prepare your priming sugar'''

We add a priming solution just before bottling to provide carbonation to the beer in the bottle. Boil 3/4 cup (4-5 oz by weight) of corn sugar or 2/3 cup (3.8-4.8 oz by weight) of cane sugar in two cups of water. Cover the pan and allow it to cool.

 

'''Combine beer and priming sugar'''

The best method for preparing the beer and priming sugar solution is to use a separate container the same size as your fermentor as a "bottling bucket." Clean and sanitize it and pour the priming solution into it. Next, siphon the beer from the fermentor into the bottling bucket. Don't simply pour the beer into the bucket, and don't let the beer splash as you siphon it in. Instead, put the end of the siphon under the surface of the beer as it fills. The swirling motion of the beer as it enters the bucket will be sufficient to evenly mix the priming solution into the beer without aeration.

If you don't have a bottling bucket, you can gently pour the priming solution into the fermentor and gently stir it. Allow the sediment in the fermentor to settle for 15-30 minutes before proceeding. You can fill the bottles using the bottle filler attachment on your siphon.

 

'''Bottle'''

Carefully fill the bottles with the primed beer, place a sanitized bottle cap on each bottle, and crimp it using the bottle capper. At this stage it is helpful to have a friend operate the capper while you fill the bottles.

 

 

 

'''Store the bottles'''

Place the capped bottles out of the light in a warm (room temperature) environment (65-75 °F [18-24 °C]). The bottles will take about two weeks to carbonate. The bottles will have a thin layer of yeast on the bottom.

 

 

== Le jour de la dégustation. ==

[[Image:1_1_4_Serving_day1.jpg]]

Enfin, vous pouvez déguster les fruits de vos efforts. Cela a duré environ un mois, et vous êtes prêt à ouvrir votre première bouteille afin de voir quel merveilleuse bière vous avez créé. Au cours des deux dernières semaines, les levures encore en suspension dans la bière ont consommé le sucre d'amorçage, créant juste assez de CO2 pour carbonater la bière à la perfection.

Vous n'avez peut être pas su attendre si longtemps et avez déjà ouvert une bouteille. Vous avez sans doute remarqué que la bière n'était pas complètement carbonatée ou bien en donnait l'apparence, mais sans l'endurance. La bière avait probablement un goût "vert", signe qu'elle était jeune. Les deux semaines de garde renforcent non seulement la carbonatation, mais permettent également d'harmoniser les saveurs.

'''1. Refroidir sa bière.''' La bière n'a pas besoin d'être stockée au frais. Elle se conserve environ 6 mois, cela dépendant du niveau d'exposition à l'oxygène lors de la dernière étape de fermentation et de l'embouteillage. Mais vous voudrez probablement la rafraîchir avant de la servir. La température optimale de service dépend du style, variant de 40 à 55°F [4-12°C]. En général, plus la bière est sombre, plus elle sera servie chambrée.

'''2. Verser la bière.''' Pour verser la bière sans avoir les levures dans le verre, inclinez doucement la bouteille pour ne pas remuer la couche de levure au fond de la bouteille. Avec la pratique, vous serez capable de vider la bouteille en ne laissant qu'un quart de pouce ''[7mm, ndt]'', sans verser les levures dans le verre.

'''3. Savourer les flaveurs.''' Finalement, prenez une bonne gorgée et savourez la bière que vous avez créé. Ne vous pressez pas -il en reste suffisamment (47 bouteilles, en fait). Prenez le temps d'évaluer les flaveurs, la qualité de l'amertume, sa douceur et son niveau de carbonatation. Ces observations sont les premières étapes pour apprécier une bière et créer vos propres recettes.

== Serving Day ==

 At last, you get to sample the fruit of your efforts. It's been about a month, and you are ready to open your first bottle and see what kind of wonderful beer you have created. During the past two weeks, the yeast still swimming around in the beer have consumed the priming sugar, creating just enough carbon dioxide to carbonate your beer perfectly.

OK, so maybe you couldn't wait this long and you already opened a bottle. You may have noticed the beer wasn't fully carbonated or that it seemed carbonated but the bubbles had no staying power. You may have also noticed a "green" flavor. That flavor is the sign of a young beer. The two-week "conditioning" period not only adds carbonation but also gives the beer flavors time to meld and balance out.

'''Chill your beer'''

The bottled beer does not need to be stored cold. It will keep for approximately six months, depending on how well you managed to avoid exposure to oxygen during the last stage of fermentation and the bottling process. You will probably want to chill it before serving, however. The optimal temperature for serving beer depends on the style, varying from 40-55°F (4-12°C). In general, the darker the beer, the warmer you serve it.

'''Pouring your beer'''

To pour the beer without getting yeast in your glass, tip the bottle slowly to avoid disturbing the yeast layer on the bottom of the bottle. With practice, you will be able to pour everything but the last quarter inch of beer without getting any yeast in your glass.

'''Savor the flavor'''

Finally, take a deep draught and savor the flavor of the beer you have created. Don't rush it - there's plenty more (47 bottles, in fact). Take time to evaluate the flavor, its bitterness qualities, its sweetness, the level of carbonation. These observations are your first steps to beer appreciation and designing your own recipes.

== Continuez à lire! Continuez de brasser! ==

Si vous voulez en apprendre plus sur le brassage -comment cela fonctionne, pourquoi cela marche, comment prendre du plaisir à créer vos propres recettes et assimiler les techniques avancées- alors je vous encourage à continuer à lire. Les prochains chapitres de ce livre vous guideront à nouveau au travers du brassage d'extraits, mais cette fois-ci avec plus d'explications. Ils comprennent des descriptions des principales variétés de houblons, de levures et de malts qui feront de chaque brassage et de chaque bière un moment unique. Dans les derniers chapitres, je vous apprendrai à brasser à partir du début, sans extraits, en utilisant l'orge malté lui-même. Ce type de brassage vous permet de vraiment contrôler le produit final, et beaucoup de brasseurs trouvent dans le "tout-grain" la manière la plus satisfaisante de brasser.

J'espère sincèrement que ce livre vous apportera le même plaisir et le même enthousiasme pour ce passe-temps que je ne l'ai éprouvé, et qu'il vous permettra de brasser quelques extraordinaires bières.

Le chapitre suivant décrit les préparatifs du brassage plus en détail. Une bonne préparation est l'étape la plus importante pour assurer le succès d'un brassin.

== '''Read On! Brew On!''' ==

If you want to learn more about brewing beer - how it works, why it works, and how to have fun creating your own recipes and taking on advanced techniques - then I encourage you to keep reading. The next chapters in this book will lead you through extract brewing again, but this time with more explanation. They include descriptions of the great variety of hops, yeast strains, and malts that can make each brewing session and every beer unique. In later chapters, I will teach you how to brew beer from scratch, without extracts, using the malted barley itself. This kind of brewing really puts you in control of the final product, and many brewers find this "all-grain" type of brewing to be the most satisfying.

It is my sincere hope that this book will enable you to derive the same sense of fun and enthusiasm for this hobby that I have experienced, and that it will enable you to brew some really outstanding beer.

The next chapter describes brewing preparation in more detail. Good preparation is the most important step to assuring a successful batch.

How to brew/Section 1/Chap 1 : Cours de brassage accéléré

2009-02-16T10:43:33Z

Chrodegang : /* Le jour de la dégustation. */

== What Do I Do? ==

If you are like me, you are probably standing in the kitchen, wanting to get started, your beer kit and equipment on the counter, wondering how long this will take and what to do first. Frankly, the first thing you should do is read all of Section I - Brewing Your First Beer With Extract. This book is going to teach you How To Brew, from the fundamentals to the advanced methods; you won't be confused by conflicting instructions on a beer kit, and you will have an outstanding first batch.

But if you are like me, you probably want to do this right now while you have some time. (It's going to take about 3 hours, depending.) So, in this first chapter, I will walk you through the steps necessary to get your first batch bubbling in the fermentor, and give you an overview of what you will do to ferment and bottle your beer.

The instructions in this chapter may not explain why you are doing each step or even what you are doing. To understand the Whats and Whys of brewing, you will need to read the rest of this book. Each of the chapters in Section I discuss the brewing steps in detail, giving you the purpose behind each step. You will know what you are doing, rather than doing it that way because "that's what it said..." You will know how long to boil the wort, how to really use hops, why to bother cooling the wort, why to bother re-hydrating the yeast, why to wait two weeks before bottling... Get the picture?

But, if you can't wait, this chapter should see you through. Beer production can be broken down into 3 main events: Brew Day, Fermentation, and Bottling Day. If you have questions about terminology or equipment, be sure to review the Glossary and Required Equipment sections via the links at the top of the page.

 

== Brew Day ==

 Equipment Needed Let's review the minimum equipment you will need for this first batch:

a 20 qt. brew pot (large canning pot) large stirring spoon (non-wood) ordinary table spoon measuring cup (preferably Pyrex glass) glass jar (at least 12 oz) fermentor (food-grade plastic bucket or glass carboy) airlock (get from homebrew shop) sanitizer (chlorine bleach or other) thermometer (optional)

 

Recipe Cincinnati Pale Ale Ingredients for a 5 gallon batch

3-4 lb. Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped 2 lb. Amber dry malt extract 12 AAU of bittering hops (any variety) For example, 1 oz. of 12% AA Nugget, or 1.5 oz. of 8% AA Perle 5 AAU of finishing hops (Cascade or other) For example, 1 oz. of 5% Cascade or 1.25 oz. of 4% Liberty 2 packets of dried ale yeast 

 

 Preparation (45 Minutes) 

'''Assemble ingredients.'''

Gather together the ingredients for the brew. You may have purchased a brewing kit at the homebrew shop and it will contain the ingredients needed to brew a particular style of beer. A kit usually consists of malt extract, yeast, and hops. The extract may already be "hopped" and the kit may not include any hops.

If you don't have a kit, then head to a homebrew supply store and buy the ingredients outlined in the recipe here. You will notice that the recipe calls for various quantities of hops measured in AAUs. AAU stands for alpha-acid units. Briefly, an AAU is a unit obtained by multiplying the alpha-acid rating of the hop (a percentage value) by the weight (ounces) that you intend to use. For example, 2 oz of a 6% alpha-acid hop equals 12 AAUs. Every package of hops you buy will list the hop's alpha-acid rating. To figure out how much of a hop you will need for this recipe, just divide the AAU target by the alpha-acid percentage on your hops. For example, 12 AAUs divided by 12 (Nugget hop's alpha-acid rating) equals 1 oz; 12 AAUs divided by 8 (Perle hop's alpha rating) equals 1 1/2 oz. (See Chapter 5 - Hops, for more info.)

 

'''Boil water.'''

You will need at least a gallon of sterile water for a variety of small tasks. Start by boiling about 1 gallon of water for 10 minutes and let it cool, covered, to room temperature.

Table 1 - Cleaning and Sanitizing Checklist Brewpot __ Clean Stirring Spoon __ Clean Tablespoon __ Clean __ Sanitize Measuring Cup __ Clean __ Sanitize Yeast Starter Jar __ Clean __ Sanitize Fermentor and Lid __ Clean __ Sanitize Airlock __ Clean __ Sanitize Thermometer __ Clean __ Sanitize 

 '''Clean and sanitize.'''

It may seem strange to the first-time brewer, but probably the most important thing in brewing is good cleaning and sanitization. Clean all equipment that will be used during the brew with a mild, unscented dish detergent, making sure to rinse well. Some equipment will need to be sanitized for use after the boiling stage. You can easily make a simple sanitizing solution by filling the fermentor bucket with 5 gallons of water and adding 5 tablespoons of chlorine bleach (a concentration equivalent to 1 TBS/gallon, or 4 ml/L). Soak all items that need to be sanitized in this bucket for 20 minutes. After soaking, dump the sanitizing solution and pour in some of the pre-boiled water for a quick rinse to remove any excess sanitizer. Place the small spoon and the thermometer in the yeast starter jar and cover it with plastic wrap. Cover the fermentor with the lid to keep it clean. (See Chapter 2- Preparations, for more info,)

Making Wort- (1 1/2 Hours) Now we begin the fun part of the work, creating the wort. Wort is what brewers call the sweet, amber liquid extracted from malted barley that the yeast will later ferment into beer.

 

'''Boil the brew water.'''

In the brewpot, bring 2 gallons of water to a boil. Pour this water into the fermentor and leave it to cool. Now bring 3 gallons of water to boil in the brewpot. You will be boiling all of the extract in just 3 gallons and adding this concentrated wort to the water already in the fermentor to make the total 5 gallons. (See Chapter - Water for Extract Brewing, for more info.)

Note: If your beer kit includes some crushed specialty grain, you will need to steep that first before adding the extract. (See Chapter 13 - Steeping Specialty Grain, for more info.)

 

'''Rehydrate the dried yeast.'''

Although many people skip this step with fair results, re-hydrating it assures the best results. While you are waiting for the brew water to boil, rehydrate two packets of dried ale yeast. Put 1 cup of warm (95-105°F, 35-40°C), preboiled water into your sanitized jar and stir in the yeast. Cover with plastic wrap and wait 15 minutes.

 

Next, "proof" the yeast. Start by adding one teaspoon of malt extract or table sugar to a small amount of water (1/4 cup, for example) and boil it to sanitize. (A microwave oven is good for this step.) Allow the sugar solution to cool and then add it to the yeast jar. Cover and place in a warm area out of direct sunlight. Check after 30 minutes, it should be exhibiting some signs of activity - some foaming and/or churning. If it just seems to sit on the bottom of the jar, then it is probably dead. Repeat the rehydration procedure with more yeast. (See Chapter 6 - Yeast, for more info.)

 

'''Add malt extract.'''

When the water in the brewpot is boiling, turn off the stove and stir in the malt extract. Be sure the extract is completely dissolved (if your malt extract is the dry variety, make sure there are no clumps; if the extract is syrup, make sure that none is stuck to the bottom of the pot). Next, turn the heat back on and resume the boil. Stir the wort regularly during the boil to be sure that it doesn't scorch.

'''Add hops.'''

If you are using unhopped extract, add the first (bittering) hop addition and begin timing the hour-long boil.(See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.)

 

'''Watch for boilovers.'''

As the wort boils, foam will form on the surface. This foam will persist until the wort goes through the "hot break" stage . The wort will easily boil over during this foaming stage, so stay close by and stir frequently . Blow on it and turn the heat down if it begins to boil over. Put a few copper pennies into the pot to help prevent boilovers.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling for more info.)

'''Add finishing hops (optional).'''

If you are using unhopped malt extract or want to add more character to hopped extract, add finishing hops during the last 15 minutes of the hour-long boil. (See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.)

'''Shut down the boil.'''

The boil time for extract beers depends on two things: waiting for the "hot break" (See Step 8) and boiling for hop additions. In a nutshell, if you are using hopped extract without any added hops then you only need to boil through the hot break stage, about 15 minutes. With some extracts, the hot break will be very weak, and you may have little foam to begin with. If you are using hopped extract but adding flavoring or aroma hops, then you will probably want to boil for 30 minutes. If you are using unhopped extract, then you will need to add hops for bittering and should boil for an hour. (See Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits, Chapter 5 - Hops, and Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.)

 

'''Cool the wort.'''

After the boil, the wort must be cooled to yeast pitching temperature (65-90 °F [18-32 °C]) as quickly as possible. To do this, immerse the pot in a cold water bath. A sink, bathtub, or a handy snowbank all work well. Be sure to keep the lid on the pot while cooling to prevent any cooling water or other potential contaminants from getting in.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.)

 

== Fermentation ==

The science of fermentation is discussed in Chapter 8 - Fermentation. Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Batch, walks you through the application of that science, so that from 10 ft. away, you will be able to perspicaciously inform curious onlookers that the beer is in the Adaptive, Attenuative, or Conditioning phase of activity.

'''Pitch the yeast.'''

Pour the rehydrated yeast solution into the fermentation bucket.

'''Add cooled wort.'''

Pour the cooled wort into the fermentation bucket "aggressively," so that it splashes and churns in the bucket. This action adds the oxygen yeast need for growth. This is the only time during the brewing process that you want the beer to be aerated or exposed to oxygen. All other transfers should be done "quietly," with a sanitized siphon and very little disturbance in the flow and minimal contact with the air.If you had added hops during the boil, you can remove them during this step by pouring the wort into the fermentor through a strainer. It is not necessary to remove the hops, however.

 

How to Siphon When racking or bottling , you cannot start a siphon by sucking on it or you will contaminate and sour the batch with bacteria from your mouth.

All parts of the siphon (racking cane, tubing, and cutoff valve or bottle filler) need to be sanitized, especially the inside. After sanitizing, leave the siphon full of sanitizer and carefully place the racking cane in your beer. Release the clamp/valve or your clean-and-sanitized thumb and allow the sanitizer to drain into a jar. Make sure the outlet is lower than the fermenter, or you will drain the sanitizer into your beer.

As the sanitizer drains, it will draw the beer into the siphon and you can stop and transfer the outlet to your bottling bucket or bottles. Thus you can siphon without risk of contamination. 

 '''Store the fermentor.'''

Put the lid tightly on the fermentor and carry it to a secure location where it will be undisturbed for two weeks. Choose a location that has a stable temperature of 65-70 °F (18-21 °C). A warmer temperature of 75 °F (24 °C) is okay, but above 80 °F (26 °C) the flavor of the beer will be affected. As soon as you have finished moving it, insert the airlock.

 

'''Leave it alone!'''

After about 24 hours, the airlock will be bubbling steadily, the exciting evidence of fermentation. The fermentation will proceed like this for two to four days, depending on the conditions of your fermentation. The activity will decrease as most of the malt sugars are consumed by the yeast, though the yeast will continue to ferment the beer long after the bubbling diminishes. Leave the beer in the fermentor for a total of two weeks.

'''Clean Up.'''

Now is the time to wash out your brewpot and other equipment. Only use mild unscented detergents, or the cleaners recommended in Chapter 2, and rinse well.

 

== Le jour de l'embouteillage. ==

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day1.jpg]]

Le deuxième grand jour dans votre vie de brasseur arrive deux semaines plus tard, après la fin de la fermentation. Vous retrouverez les données esquissées ci-dessous dans le chapitre 11 - Amorçage et embouteillage. Pour ce faire, vous devez avoir:

-48 (12oz [33cl.]) bouteilles
-Un écouvillon (voire une brosse de cuisine ou de ménage)
-Une capsuleuse (en vente en magasin spécialisé)
-Des capsules (en vente en magasin spécialisé)
-Un seau (fondamentalement, un seau équipé d'un robinet et d'un remplisseur de bouteille)
-Une canne de transvasement/siphon/remplisseur de bouteilles
-Du sucre (4-5oz [113-142gr] par volume, ''soit 5.9-7.5gr/litres [ndt]'')

'''1. Préparez vos bouteilles.''' Un brassin typique de 5 gallons [18.9 litres] requière deux caisses (48) de bouteilles de 12oz [33cl.] pour l'embouteillage. Il faut nettoyer et désinfecter consciencieusement les bouteilles avant usage. Si vous utilisez de vieilles bouteilles, vérifiez qu'il n'y ait pas de saletés ou de moisissures à l'intérieur. Elles doivent être brossées avec un écouvillon pour qu'elles soient réellement propre. On nettoie d'abord pour désinfecter ensuite.

'''2. Préparez vos capsules.''' Les capsules doivent être désinfectées avant usage, la meilleur manière étant de les plonger dans un liquide désinfectant. Certains brasseurs utilisent des bouteilles à couronnes (style Groelsch). La partie en céramique peut être désinfectée avec les bouteilles. Les joints en caoutchouc peuvent être désinfectés comme les capsules de bouteille.

'''3. Préparez votre sucre d'amorçage.''' Nous ajoutons une solution d'amorçage juste avant la mise en bouteille pour permettre à la bière de carbonater en bouteille. Faites bouillir 3/4 de tasse (4-5oz [113-142gr] par volume) de sucre blanc ou 2/3 de tasse (3.8-4.8oz [107-136gr] par volume) de sucre de canne dans deux tasses d'eau. Couvrez la casserole et laissez refroidir.

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day2.jpg]]

'''4. Mélangez la bière et le sucre d'amorçage.''' La meilleur méthode est d'utiliser un récipient séparé, de la même contenance que votre fermenteur, comme "seau d'embouteillage". Nettoyez le, désinfectez le et versez le sirop au fond. Ensuite, siphonnez la bière du fermenteur vers le seau. Il faut éviter de verser simplement dans le fût, ou d'éclabousser en siphonnant. Pour cela, placez le bout du siphon sous la surface de la bière pour le remplir. Le mouvement tourbillonnant de la bière à son entrée dans le seau sera suffisant pour mélanger uniformément le sirop et la bière, sans l'aérer.

Si vous n'avez pas de seau d'embouteillage, vous pouvez verser doucement le sirop dans le fermenteur et remuer lentement. Laissez reposer 15-30 minutes pour que les sédiments retombent. Il ne reste plus qu'à fixer un remplisseur à votre siphon pour embouteiller.

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day3.jpg]] [[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day4.jpg]]

'''5. Les bouteilles.''' Remplissez avec précaution les bouteilles, placez une capsule désinfectée sur chacune d'elles avant de verrouiller le tout avec une capsuleuse.

'''6. Entreposez les bouteilles.''' Placez les bouteilles à l'abri de la lumière et à température ambiante (65-75°F [18-24°C]). La carbonatation va prendre environ deux semaines. Les bouteilles auront une fine couche de levures dans le fonds.

== Bottling Day ==

 The second big day in your career as a homebrewer comes two weeks later, after fermentation is complete. Everything outlined below is thoroughly discussed in Chapter 11 - Priming and Bottling. To bottle your beer, you will need:

48 (12-oz) bottles bottle brush (kitchen or household cleaning variety is OK) bottle capper (from homebrew shop) bottle caps (from homebrew shop) bottling bucket (basically another fermentor bucket with a spigot and bottle filler attached) racking cane/siphon/bottle filler (from homebrew shop) Sugar (4-5 oz by weight)

'''Prepare your bottles'''

A typical 5-gallon batch requires two cases (48) of 12-oz bottles for bottling. Thoroughly clean and sanitize the bottles before use. If you are using old bottles, check them inside for dirt or mold deposits. They may need to be scrubbed with a bottle brush to get them really clean. Always clean first, then sanitize.

'''Prepare your bottle caps'''

Bottle caps must be sanitized before use, and the best way is to soak them in sanitizing solution. Some brewers use flip-top (Groelsch style) bottles. The ceramic part of the flip tops can be sanitized along with the bottles. The rubber seals can be sanitized like the bottle caps.

'''Prepare your priming sugar'''

We add a priming solution just before bottling to provide carbonation to the beer in the bottle. Boil 3/4 cup (4-5 oz by weight) of corn sugar or 2/3 cup (3.8-4.8 oz by weight) of cane sugar in two cups of water. Cover the pan and allow it to cool.

 

'''Combine beer and priming sugar'''

The best method for preparing the beer and priming sugar solution is to use a separate container the same size as your fermentor as a "bottling bucket." Clean and sanitize it and pour the priming solution into it. Next, siphon the beer from the fermentor into the bottling bucket. Don't simply pour the beer into the bucket, and don't let the beer splash as you siphon it in. Instead, put the end of the siphon under the surface of the beer as it fills. The swirling motion of the beer as it enters the bucket will be sufficient to evenly mix the priming solution into the beer without aeration.

If you don't have a bottling bucket, you can gently pour the priming solution into the fermentor and gently stir it. Allow the sediment in the fermentor to settle for 15-30 minutes before proceeding. You can fill the bottles using the bottle filler attachment on your siphon.

 

'''Bottle'''

Carefully fill the bottles with the primed beer, place a sanitized bottle cap on each bottle, and crimp it using the bottle capper. At this stage it is helpful to have a friend operate the capper while you fill the bottles.

 

 

 

'''Store the bottles'''

Place the capped bottles out of the light in a warm (room temperature) environment (65-75 °F [18-24 °C]). The bottles will take about two weeks to carbonate. The bottles will have a thin layer of yeast on the bottom.

 

 

== Le jour de la dégustation. ==

[[Image:1_1_4_Serving_day1.jpg]]

Enfin, vous pouvez déguster les fruits de vos efforts. Cela a duré environ un mois, et vous êtes prêt à ouvrir votre première bouteille afin de voir quel merveilleuse bière vous avez créé. Au cours des deux dernières semaines, les levures encore en suspension dans la bière ont consommé le sucre d'amorçage, créant juste assez de CO2 pour carbonater la bière à la perfection.

Vous n'avez peut être pas su attendre si longtemps et avez déjà ouvert une bouteille. Vous avez sans doute remarqué que la bière n'était pas complètement carbonatée ou bien en donnait l'apparence, mais sans l'endurance. La bière avait probablement un goût "vert", signe qu'elle était jeune. Les deux semaines de garde renforcent non seulement la carbonatation, mais permettent également d'harmoniser les saveurs.

'''1. Refroidir sa bière.''' La bière n'a pas besoin d'être stockée au frais. Elle se conserve environ 6 mois, cela dépendant du niveau d'exposition à l'oxygène lors de la dernière étape de fermentation et de l'embouteillage. Mais vous voudrez probablement la rafraîchir avant de la servir. La température optimale de service dépend du style, variant de 40 à 55°F [4-12°C]. En général, plus la bière est sombre, plus elle sera servie chambrée.

'''2. Verser la bière.''' Pour verser la bière sans avoir les levures dans le verre, inclinez doucement la bouteille pour ne pas remuer la couche de levure au fond de la bouteille. Avec la pratique, vous serez capable de vider la bouteille en ne laissant qu'un quart de pouce ''[7mm, ndt]'', sans verser les levures dans le verre.

'''3. Savourer les flaveurs.''' Finalement, prenez une bonne gorgée et savourez la bière que vous avez créé. Ne vous pressez pas -il en reste suffisamment (47 bouteilles, en fait). Prenez le temps d'évaluer les flaveurs, la qualité de l'amertume, sa douceur et son niveau de carbonatation. Ces observations sont les premières étapes pour apprécier une bière et créer vos propres recettes.

== Serving Day ==

 At last, you get to sample the fruit of your efforts. It's been about a month, and you are ready to open your first bottle and see what kind of wonderful beer you have created. During the past two weeks, the yeast still swimming around in the beer have consumed the priming sugar, creating just enough carbon dioxide to carbonate your beer perfectly.

OK, so maybe you couldn't wait this long and you already opened a bottle. You may have noticed the beer wasn't fully carbonated or that it seemed carbonated but the bubbles had no staying power. You may have also noticed a "green" flavor. That flavor is the sign of a young beer. The two-week "conditioning" period not only adds carbonation but also gives the beer flavors time to meld and balance out.

'''Chill your beer'''

The bottled beer does not need to be stored cold. It will keep for approximately six months, depending on how well you managed to avoid exposure to oxygen during the last stage of fermentation and the bottling process. You will probably want to chill it before serving, however. The optimal temperature for serving beer depends on the style, varying from 40-55°F (4-12°C). In general, the darker the beer, the warmer you serve it.

'''Pouring your beer'''

To pour the beer without getting yeast in your glass, tip the bottle slowly to avoid disturbing the yeast layer on the bottom of the bottle. With practice, you will be able to pour everything but the last quarter inch of beer without getting any yeast in your glass.

'''Savor the flavor'''

Finally, take a deep draught and savor the flavor of the beer you have created. Don't rush it - there's plenty more (47 bottles, in fact). Take time to evaluate the flavor, its bitterness qualities, its sweetness, the level of carbonation. These observations are your first steps to beer appreciation and designing your own recipes.

== '''Continuez à lire! Continuez de brasser!''' ==

Si vous voulez en apprendre plus sur le brassage -comment cela fonctionne, pourquoi cela marche, comment prendre du plaisir à créer vos propres recettes et assimiler les techniques avancées- alors je vous encourage à continuer à lire. Les prochains chapitres de ce livre vous guideront à nouveau au travers du brassage d'extraits, mais cette fois-ci avec plus d'explications. Ils comprennent des descriptions des principales variétés de houblons, de levures et de malts qui feront de chaque brassage et de chaque bière un moment unique. Dans les derniers chapitres, je vous apprendrai à brasser à partir du début, sans extraits, en utilisant l'orge malté lui-même. Ce type de brassage vous permet de vraiment contrôler le produit final, et beaucoup de brasseurs trouvent dans le "tout-grain" la manière la plus satisfaisante de brasser.

J'espère sincèrement que ce livre vous apportera le même plaisir et le même enthousiasme pour ce passe-temps que je ne l'ai éprouvé, et qu'il vous permettra de brasser quelques extraordinaires bières.

Le chapitre suivant décrit les préparatifs du brassage plus en détail. Une bonne préparation est l'étape la plus importante pour assurer le succès d'un brassin.

== '''Read On! Brew On!''' ==

If you want to learn more about brewing beer - how it works, why it works, and how to have fun creating your own recipes and taking on advanced techniques - then I encourage you to keep reading. The next chapters in this book will lead you through extract brewing again, but this time with more explanation. They include descriptions of the great variety of hops, yeast strains, and malts that can make each brewing session and every beer unique. In later chapters, I will teach you how to brew beer from scratch, without extracts, using the malted barley itself. This kind of brewing really puts you in control of the final product, and many brewers find this "all-grain" type of brewing to be the most satisfying.

It is my sincere hope that this book will enable you to derive the same sense of fun and enthusiasm for this hobby that I have experienced, and that it will enable you to brew some really outstanding beer.

The next chapter describes brewing preparation in more detail. Good preparation is the most important step to assuring a successful batch.

How to brew/Section 1/Chap 1 : Cours de brassage accéléré

2009-02-16T10:43:09Z

Chrodegang : /* Le jour de l'embouteillage. */

== What Do I Do? ==

If you are like me, you are probably standing in the kitchen, wanting to get started, your beer kit and equipment on the counter, wondering how long this will take and what to do first. Frankly, the first thing you should do is read all of Section I - Brewing Your First Beer With Extract. This book is going to teach you How To Brew, from the fundamentals to the advanced methods; you won't be confused by conflicting instructions on a beer kit, and you will have an outstanding first batch.

But if you are like me, you probably want to do this right now while you have some time. (It's going to take about 3 hours, depending.) So, in this first chapter, I will walk you through the steps necessary to get your first batch bubbling in the fermentor, and give you an overview of what you will do to ferment and bottle your beer.

The instructions in this chapter may not explain why you are doing each step or even what you are doing. To understand the Whats and Whys of brewing, you will need to read the rest of this book. Each of the chapters in Section I discuss the brewing steps in detail, giving you the purpose behind each step. You will know what you are doing, rather than doing it that way because "that's what it said..." You will know how long to boil the wort, how to really use hops, why to bother cooling the wort, why to bother re-hydrating the yeast, why to wait two weeks before bottling... Get the picture?

But, if you can't wait, this chapter should see you through. Beer production can be broken down into 3 main events: Brew Day, Fermentation, and Bottling Day. If you have questions about terminology or equipment, be sure to review the Glossary and Required Equipment sections via the links at the top of the page.

 

== Brew Day ==

 Equipment Needed Let's review the minimum equipment you will need for this first batch:

a 20 qt. brew pot (large canning pot) large stirring spoon (non-wood) ordinary table spoon measuring cup (preferably Pyrex glass) glass jar (at least 12 oz) fermentor (food-grade plastic bucket or glass carboy) airlock (get from homebrew shop) sanitizer (chlorine bleach or other) thermometer (optional)

 

Recipe Cincinnati Pale Ale Ingredients for a 5 gallon batch

3-4 lb. Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped 2 lb. Amber dry malt extract 12 AAU of bittering hops (any variety) For example, 1 oz. of 12% AA Nugget, or 1.5 oz. of 8% AA Perle 5 AAU of finishing hops (Cascade or other) For example, 1 oz. of 5% Cascade or 1.25 oz. of 4% Liberty 2 packets of dried ale yeast 

 

 Preparation (45 Minutes) 

'''Assemble ingredients.'''

Gather together the ingredients for the brew. You may have purchased a brewing kit at the homebrew shop and it will contain the ingredients needed to brew a particular style of beer. A kit usually consists of malt extract, yeast, and hops. The extract may already be "hopped" and the kit may not include any hops.

If you don't have a kit, then head to a homebrew supply store and buy the ingredients outlined in the recipe here. You will notice that the recipe calls for various quantities of hops measured in AAUs. AAU stands for alpha-acid units. Briefly, an AAU is a unit obtained by multiplying the alpha-acid rating of the hop (a percentage value) by the weight (ounces) that you intend to use. For example, 2 oz of a 6% alpha-acid hop equals 12 AAUs. Every package of hops you buy will list the hop's alpha-acid rating. To figure out how much of a hop you will need for this recipe, just divide the AAU target by the alpha-acid percentage on your hops. For example, 12 AAUs divided by 12 (Nugget hop's alpha-acid rating) equals 1 oz; 12 AAUs divided by 8 (Perle hop's alpha rating) equals 1 1/2 oz. (See Chapter 5 - Hops, for more info.)

 

'''Boil water.'''

You will need at least a gallon of sterile water for a variety of small tasks. Start by boiling about 1 gallon of water for 10 minutes and let it cool, covered, to room temperature.

Table 1 - Cleaning and Sanitizing Checklist Brewpot __ Clean Stirring Spoon __ Clean Tablespoon __ Clean __ Sanitize Measuring Cup __ Clean __ Sanitize Yeast Starter Jar __ Clean __ Sanitize Fermentor and Lid __ Clean __ Sanitize Airlock __ Clean __ Sanitize Thermometer __ Clean __ Sanitize 

 '''Clean and sanitize.'''

It may seem strange to the first-time brewer, but probably the most important thing in brewing is good cleaning and sanitization. Clean all equipment that will be used during the brew with a mild, unscented dish detergent, making sure to rinse well. Some equipment will need to be sanitized for use after the boiling stage. You can easily make a simple sanitizing solution by filling the fermentor bucket with 5 gallons of water and adding 5 tablespoons of chlorine bleach (a concentration equivalent to 1 TBS/gallon, or 4 ml/L). Soak all items that need to be sanitized in this bucket for 20 minutes. After soaking, dump the sanitizing solution and pour in some of the pre-boiled water for a quick rinse to remove any excess sanitizer. Place the small spoon and the thermometer in the yeast starter jar and cover it with plastic wrap. Cover the fermentor with the lid to keep it clean. (See Chapter 2- Preparations, for more info,)

Making Wort- (1 1/2 Hours) Now we begin the fun part of the work, creating the wort. Wort is what brewers call the sweet, amber liquid extracted from malted barley that the yeast will later ferment into beer.

 

'''Boil the brew water.'''

In the brewpot, bring 2 gallons of water to a boil. Pour this water into the fermentor and leave it to cool. Now bring 3 gallons of water to boil in the brewpot. You will be boiling all of the extract in just 3 gallons and adding this concentrated wort to the water already in the fermentor to make the total 5 gallons. (See Chapter - Water for Extract Brewing, for more info.)

Note: If your beer kit includes some crushed specialty grain, you will need to steep that first before adding the extract. (See Chapter 13 - Steeping Specialty Grain, for more info.)

 

'''Rehydrate the dried yeast.'''

Although many people skip this step with fair results, re-hydrating it assures the best results. While you are waiting for the brew water to boil, rehydrate two packets of dried ale yeast. Put 1 cup of warm (95-105°F, 35-40°C), preboiled water into your sanitized jar and stir in the yeast. Cover with plastic wrap and wait 15 minutes.

 

Next, "proof" the yeast. Start by adding one teaspoon of malt extract or table sugar to a small amount of water (1/4 cup, for example) and boil it to sanitize. (A microwave oven is good for this step.) Allow the sugar solution to cool and then add it to the yeast jar. Cover and place in a warm area out of direct sunlight. Check after 30 minutes, it should be exhibiting some signs of activity - some foaming and/or churning. If it just seems to sit on the bottom of the jar, then it is probably dead. Repeat the rehydration procedure with more yeast. (See Chapter 6 - Yeast, for more info.)

 

'''Add malt extract.'''

When the water in the brewpot is boiling, turn off the stove and stir in the malt extract. Be sure the extract is completely dissolved (if your malt extract is the dry variety, make sure there are no clumps; if the extract is syrup, make sure that none is stuck to the bottom of the pot). Next, turn the heat back on and resume the boil. Stir the wort regularly during the boil to be sure that it doesn't scorch.

'''Add hops.'''

If you are using unhopped extract, add the first (bittering) hop addition and begin timing the hour-long boil.(See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.)

 

'''Watch for boilovers.'''

As the wort boils, foam will form on the surface. This foam will persist until the wort goes through the "hot break" stage . The wort will easily boil over during this foaming stage, so stay close by and stir frequently . Blow on it and turn the heat down if it begins to boil over. Put a few copper pennies into the pot to help prevent boilovers.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling for more info.)

'''Add finishing hops (optional).'''

If you are using unhopped malt extract or want to add more character to hopped extract, add finishing hops during the last 15 minutes of the hour-long boil. (See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.)

'''Shut down the boil.'''

The boil time for extract beers depends on two things: waiting for the "hot break" (See Step 8) and boiling for hop additions. In a nutshell, if you are using hopped extract without any added hops then you only need to boil through the hot break stage, about 15 minutes. With some extracts, the hot break will be very weak, and you may have little foam to begin with. If you are using hopped extract but adding flavoring or aroma hops, then you will probably want to boil for 30 minutes. If you are using unhopped extract, then you will need to add hops for bittering and should boil for an hour. (See Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits, Chapter 5 - Hops, and Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.)

 

'''Cool the wort.'''

After the boil, the wort must be cooled to yeast pitching temperature (65-90 °F [18-32 °C]) as quickly as possible. To do this, immerse the pot in a cold water bath. A sink, bathtub, or a handy snowbank all work well. Be sure to keep the lid on the pot while cooling to prevent any cooling water or other potential contaminants from getting in.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.)

 

== Fermentation ==

The science of fermentation is discussed in Chapter 8 - Fermentation. Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Batch, walks you through the application of that science, so that from 10 ft. away, you will be able to perspicaciously inform curious onlookers that the beer is in the Adaptive, Attenuative, or Conditioning phase of activity.

'''Pitch the yeast.'''

Pour the rehydrated yeast solution into the fermentation bucket.

'''Add cooled wort.'''

Pour the cooled wort into the fermentation bucket "aggressively," so that it splashes and churns in the bucket. This action adds the oxygen yeast need for growth. This is the only time during the brewing process that you want the beer to be aerated or exposed to oxygen. All other transfers should be done "quietly," with a sanitized siphon and very little disturbance in the flow and minimal contact with the air.If you had added hops during the boil, you can remove them during this step by pouring the wort into the fermentor through a strainer. It is not necessary to remove the hops, however.

 

How to Siphon When racking or bottling , you cannot start a siphon by sucking on it or you will contaminate and sour the batch with bacteria from your mouth.

All parts of the siphon (racking cane, tubing, and cutoff valve or bottle filler) need to be sanitized, especially the inside. After sanitizing, leave the siphon full of sanitizer and carefully place the racking cane in your beer. Release the clamp/valve or your clean-and-sanitized thumb and allow the sanitizer to drain into a jar. Make sure the outlet is lower than the fermenter, or you will drain the sanitizer into your beer.

As the sanitizer drains, it will draw the beer into the siphon and you can stop and transfer the outlet to your bottling bucket or bottles. Thus you can siphon without risk of contamination. 

 '''Store the fermentor.'''

Put the lid tightly on the fermentor and carry it to a secure location where it will be undisturbed for two weeks. Choose a location that has a stable temperature of 65-70 °F (18-21 °C). A warmer temperature of 75 °F (24 °C) is okay, but above 80 °F (26 °C) the flavor of the beer will be affected. As soon as you have finished moving it, insert the airlock.

 

'''Leave it alone!'''

After about 24 hours, the airlock will be bubbling steadily, the exciting evidence of fermentation. The fermentation will proceed like this for two to four days, depending on the conditions of your fermentation. The activity will decrease as most of the malt sugars are consumed by the yeast, though the yeast will continue to ferment the beer long after the bubbling diminishes. Leave the beer in the fermentor for a total of two weeks.

'''Clean Up.'''

Now is the time to wash out your brewpot and other equipment. Only use mild unscented detergents, or the cleaners recommended in Chapter 2, and rinse well.

 

== Le jour de l'embouteillage. ==

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day1.jpg]]

Le deuxième grand jour dans votre vie de brasseur arrive deux semaines plus tard, après la fin de la fermentation. Vous retrouverez les données esquissées ci-dessous dans le chapitre 11 - Amorçage et embouteillage. Pour ce faire, vous devez avoir:

-48 (12oz [33cl.]) bouteilles
-Un écouvillon (voire une brosse de cuisine ou de ménage)
-Une capsuleuse (en vente en magasin spécialisé)
-Des capsules (en vente en magasin spécialisé)
-Un seau (fondamentalement, un seau équipé d'un robinet et d'un remplisseur de bouteille)
-Une canne de transvasement/siphon/remplisseur de bouteilles
-Du sucre (4-5oz [113-142gr] par volume, ''soit 5.9-7.5gr/litres [ndt]'')

'''1. Préparez vos bouteilles.''' Un brassin typique de 5 gallons [18.9 litres] requière deux caisses (48) de bouteilles de 12oz [33cl.] pour l'embouteillage. Il faut nettoyer et désinfecter consciencieusement les bouteilles avant usage. Si vous utilisez de vieilles bouteilles, vérifiez qu'il n'y ait pas de saletés ou de moisissures à l'intérieur. Elles doivent être brossées avec un écouvillon pour qu'elles soient réellement propre. On nettoie d'abord pour désinfecter ensuite.

'''2. Préparez vos capsules.''' Les capsules doivent être désinfectées avant usage, la meilleur manière étant de les plonger dans un liquide désinfectant. Certains brasseurs utilisent des bouteilles à couronnes (style Groelsch). La partie en céramique peut être désinfectée avec les bouteilles. Les joints en caoutchouc peuvent être désinfectés comme les capsules de bouteille.

'''3. Préparez votre sucre d'amorçage.''' Nous ajoutons une solution d'amorçage juste avant la mise en bouteille pour permettre à la bière de carbonater en bouteille. Faites bouillir 3/4 de tasse (4-5oz [113-142gr] par volume) de sucre blanc ou 2/3 de tasse (3.8-4.8oz [107-136gr] par volume) de sucre de canne dans deux tasses d'eau. Couvrez la casserole et laissez refroidir.

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day2.jpg]]

'''4. Mélangez la bière et le sucre d'amorçage.''' La meilleur méthode est d'utiliser un récipient séparé, de la même contenance que votre fermenteur, comme "seau d'embouteillage". Nettoyez le, désinfectez le et versez le sirop au fond. Ensuite, siphonnez la bière du fermenteur vers le seau. Il faut éviter de verser simplement dans le fût, ou d'éclabousser en siphonnant. Pour cela, placez le bout du siphon sous la surface de la bière pour le remplir. Le mouvement tourbillonnant de la bière à son entrée dans le seau sera suffisant pour mélanger uniformément le sirop et la bière, sans l'aérer.

Si vous n'avez pas de seau d'embouteillage, vous pouvez verser doucement le sirop dans le fermenteur et remuer lentement. Laissez reposer 15-30 minutes pour que les sédiments retombent. Il ne reste plus qu'à fixer un remplisseur à votre siphon pour embouteiller.

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day3.jpg]] [[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day4.jpg]]

'''5. Les bouteilles.''' Remplissez avec précaution les bouteilles, placez une capsule désinfectée sur chacune d'elles avant de verrouiller le tout avec une capsuleuse.

'''6. Entreposez les bouteilles.''' Placez les bouteilles à l'abri de la lumière et à température ambiante (65-75°F [18-24°C]). La carbonatation va prendre environ deux semaines. Les bouteilles auront une fine couche de levures dans le fonds.

== Bottling Day ==

 The second big day in your career as a homebrewer comes two weeks later, after fermentation is complete. Everything outlined below is thoroughly discussed in Chapter 11 - Priming and Bottling. To bottle your beer, you will need:

48 (12-oz) bottles bottle brush (kitchen or household cleaning variety is OK) bottle capper (from homebrew shop) bottle caps (from homebrew shop) bottling bucket (basically another fermentor bucket with a spigot and bottle filler attached) racking cane/siphon/bottle filler (from homebrew shop) Sugar (4-5 oz by weight)

'''Prepare your bottles'''

A typical 5-gallon batch requires two cases (48) of 12-oz bottles for bottling. Thoroughly clean and sanitize the bottles before use. If you are using old bottles, check them inside for dirt or mold deposits. They may need to be scrubbed with a bottle brush to get them really clean. Always clean first, then sanitize.

'''Prepare your bottle caps'''

Bottle caps must be sanitized before use, and the best way is to soak them in sanitizing solution. Some brewers use flip-top (Groelsch style) bottles. The ceramic part of the flip tops can be sanitized along with the bottles. The rubber seals can be sanitized like the bottle caps.

'''Prepare your priming sugar'''

We add a priming solution just before bottling to provide carbonation to the beer in the bottle. Boil 3/4 cup (4-5 oz by weight) of corn sugar or 2/3 cup (3.8-4.8 oz by weight) of cane sugar in two cups of water. Cover the pan and allow it to cool.

 

'''Combine beer and priming sugar'''

The best method for preparing the beer and priming sugar solution is to use a separate container the same size as your fermentor as a "bottling bucket." Clean and sanitize it and pour the priming solution into it. Next, siphon the beer from the fermentor into the bottling bucket. Don't simply pour the beer into the bucket, and don't let the beer splash as you siphon it in. Instead, put the end of the siphon under the surface of the beer as it fills. The swirling motion of the beer as it enters the bucket will be sufficient to evenly mix the priming solution into the beer without aeration.

If you don't have a bottling bucket, you can gently pour the priming solution into the fermentor and gently stir it. Allow the sediment in the fermentor to settle for 15-30 minutes before proceeding. You can fill the bottles using the bottle filler attachment on your siphon.

 

'''Bottle'''

Carefully fill the bottles with the primed beer, place a sanitized bottle cap on each bottle, and crimp it using the bottle capper. At this stage it is helpful to have a friend operate the capper while you fill the bottles.

 

 

 

'''Store the bottles'''

Place the capped bottles out of the light in a warm (room temperature) environment (65-75 °F [18-24 °C]). The bottles will take about two weeks to carbonate. The bottles will have a thin layer of yeast on the bottom.

 

 

== '''Le jour de la dégustation.''' ==

[[Image:1_1_4_Serving_day1.jpg]]

Enfin, vous pouvez déguster les fruits de vos efforts. Cela a duré environ un mois, et vous êtes prêt à ouvrir votre première bouteille afin de voir quel merveilleuse bière vous avez créé. Au cours des deux dernières semaines, les levures encore en suspension dans la bière ont consommé le sucre d'amorçage, créant juste assez de CO2 pour carbonater la bière à la perfection.

Vous n'avez peut être pas su attendre si longtemps et avez déjà ouvert une bouteille. Vous avez sans doute remarqué que la bière n'était pas complètement carbonatée ou bien en donnait l'apparence, mais sans l'endurance. La bière avait probablement un goût "vert", signe qu'elle était jeune. Les deux semaines de garde renforcent non seulement la carbonatation, mais permettent également d'harmoniser les saveurs.

'''1. Refroidir sa bière.''' La bière n'a pas besoin d'être stockée au frais. Elle se conserve environ 6 mois, cela dépendant du niveau d'exposition à l'oxygène lors de la dernière étape de fermentation et de l'embouteillage. Mais vous voudrez probablement la rafraîchir avant de la servir. La température optimale de service dépend du style, variant de 40 à 55°F [4-12°C]. En général, plus la bière est sombre, plus elle sera servie chambrée.

'''2. Verser la bière.''' Pour verser la bière sans avoir les levures dans le verre, inclinez doucement la bouteille pour ne pas remuer la couche de levure au fond de la bouteille. Avec la pratique, vous serez capable de vider la bouteille en ne laissant qu'un quart de pouce ''[7mm, ndt]'', sans verser les levures dans le verre.

'''3. Savourer les flaveurs.''' Finalement, prenez une bonne gorgée et savourez la bière que vous avez créé. Ne vous pressez pas -il en reste suffisamment (47 bouteilles, en fait). Prenez le temps d'évaluer les flaveurs, la qualité de l'amertume, sa douceur et son niveau de carbonatation. Ces observations sont les premières étapes pour apprécier une bière et créer vos propres recettes.

== Serving Day ==

 At last, you get to sample the fruit of your efforts. It's been about a month, and you are ready to open your first bottle and see what kind of wonderful beer you have created. During the past two weeks, the yeast still swimming around in the beer have consumed the priming sugar, creating just enough carbon dioxide to carbonate your beer perfectly.

OK, so maybe you couldn't wait this long and you already opened a bottle. You may have noticed the beer wasn't fully carbonated or that it seemed carbonated but the bubbles had no staying power. You may have also noticed a "green" flavor. That flavor is the sign of a young beer. The two-week "conditioning" period not only adds carbonation but also gives the beer flavors time to meld and balance out.

'''Chill your beer'''

The bottled beer does not need to be stored cold. It will keep for approximately six months, depending on how well you managed to avoid exposure to oxygen during the last stage of fermentation and the bottling process. You will probably want to chill it before serving, however. The optimal temperature for serving beer depends on the style, varying from 40-55°F (4-12°C). In general, the darker the beer, the warmer you serve it.

'''Pouring your beer'''

To pour the beer without getting yeast in your glass, tip the bottle slowly to avoid disturbing the yeast layer on the bottom of the bottle. With practice, you will be able to pour everything but the last quarter inch of beer without getting any yeast in your glass.

'''Savor the flavor'''

Finally, take a deep draught and savor the flavor of the beer you have created. Don't rush it - there's plenty more (47 bottles, in fact). Take time to evaluate the flavor, its bitterness qualities, its sweetness, the level of carbonation. These observations are your first steps to beer appreciation and designing your own recipes.

== '''Continuez à lire! Continuez de brasser!''' ==

Si vous voulez en apprendre plus sur le brassage -comment cela fonctionne, pourquoi cela marche, comment prendre du plaisir à créer vos propres recettes et assimiler les techniques avancées- alors je vous encourage à continuer à lire. Les prochains chapitres de ce livre vous guideront à nouveau au travers du brassage d'extraits, mais cette fois-ci avec plus d'explications. Ils comprennent des descriptions des principales variétés de houblons, de levures et de malts qui feront de chaque brassage et de chaque bière un moment unique. Dans les derniers chapitres, je vous apprendrai à brasser à partir du début, sans extraits, en utilisant l'orge malté lui-même. Ce type de brassage vous permet de vraiment contrôler le produit final, et beaucoup de brasseurs trouvent dans le "tout-grain" la manière la plus satisfaisante de brasser.

J'espère sincèrement que ce livre vous apportera le même plaisir et le même enthousiasme pour ce passe-temps que je ne l'ai éprouvé, et qu'il vous permettra de brasser quelques extraordinaires bières.

Le chapitre suivant décrit les préparatifs du brassage plus en détail. Une bonne préparation est l'étape la plus importante pour assurer le succès d'un brassin.

== '''Read On! Brew On!''' ==

If you want to learn more about brewing beer - how it works, why it works, and how to have fun creating your own recipes and taking on advanced techniques - then I encourage you to keep reading. The next chapters in this book will lead you through extract brewing again, but this time with more explanation. They include descriptions of the great variety of hops, yeast strains, and malts that can make each brewing session and every beer unique. In later chapters, I will teach you how to brew beer from scratch, without extracts, using the malted barley itself. This kind of brewing really puts you in control of the final product, and many brewers find this "all-grain" type of brewing to be the most satisfying.

It is my sincere hope that this book will enable you to derive the same sense of fun and enthusiasm for this hobby that I have experienced, and that it will enable you to brew some really outstanding beer.

The next chapter describes brewing preparation in more detail. Good preparation is the most important step to assuring a successful batch.

How to brew/Section 1/Chap 1 : Cours de brassage accéléré

2009-02-16T10:42:11Z

Chrodegang : /* L'embouteillage. */

== What Do I Do? ==

If you are like me, you are probably standing in the kitchen, wanting to get started, your beer kit and equipment on the counter, wondering how long this will take and what to do first. Frankly, the first thing you should do is read all of Section I - Brewing Your First Beer With Extract. This book is going to teach you How To Brew, from the fundamentals to the advanced methods; you won't be confused by conflicting instructions on a beer kit, and you will have an outstanding first batch.

But if you are like me, you probably want to do this right now while you have some time. (It's going to take about 3 hours, depending.) So, in this first chapter, I will walk you through the steps necessary to get your first batch bubbling in the fermentor, and give you an overview of what you will do to ferment and bottle your beer.

The instructions in this chapter may not explain why you are doing each step or even what you are doing. To understand the Whats and Whys of brewing, you will need to read the rest of this book. Each of the chapters in Section I discuss the brewing steps in detail, giving you the purpose behind each step. You will know what you are doing, rather than doing it that way because "that's what it said..." You will know how long to boil the wort, how to really use hops, why to bother cooling the wort, why to bother re-hydrating the yeast, why to wait two weeks before bottling... Get the picture?

But, if you can't wait, this chapter should see you through. Beer production can be broken down into 3 main events: Brew Day, Fermentation, and Bottling Day. If you have questions about terminology or equipment, be sure to review the Glossary and Required Equipment sections via the links at the top of the page.

 

== Brew Day ==

 Equipment Needed Let's review the minimum equipment you will need for this first batch:

a 20 qt. brew pot (large canning pot) large stirring spoon (non-wood) ordinary table spoon measuring cup (preferably Pyrex glass) glass jar (at least 12 oz) fermentor (food-grade plastic bucket or glass carboy) airlock (get from homebrew shop) sanitizer (chlorine bleach or other) thermometer (optional)

 

Recipe Cincinnati Pale Ale Ingredients for a 5 gallon batch

3-4 lb. Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped 2 lb. Amber dry malt extract 12 AAU of bittering hops (any variety) For example, 1 oz. of 12% AA Nugget, or 1.5 oz. of 8% AA Perle 5 AAU of finishing hops (Cascade or other) For example, 1 oz. of 5% Cascade or 1.25 oz. of 4% Liberty 2 packets of dried ale yeast 

 

 Preparation (45 Minutes) 

'''Assemble ingredients.'''

Gather together the ingredients for the brew. You may have purchased a brewing kit at the homebrew shop and it will contain the ingredients needed to brew a particular style of beer. A kit usually consists of malt extract, yeast, and hops. The extract may already be "hopped" and the kit may not include any hops.

If you don't have a kit, then head to a homebrew supply store and buy the ingredients outlined in the recipe here. You will notice that the recipe calls for various quantities of hops measured in AAUs. AAU stands for alpha-acid units. Briefly, an AAU is a unit obtained by multiplying the alpha-acid rating of the hop (a percentage value) by the weight (ounces) that you intend to use. For example, 2 oz of a 6% alpha-acid hop equals 12 AAUs. Every package of hops you buy will list the hop's alpha-acid rating. To figure out how much of a hop you will need for this recipe, just divide the AAU target by the alpha-acid percentage on your hops. For example, 12 AAUs divided by 12 (Nugget hop's alpha-acid rating) equals 1 oz; 12 AAUs divided by 8 (Perle hop's alpha rating) equals 1 1/2 oz. (See Chapter 5 - Hops, for more info.)

 

'''Boil water.'''

You will need at least a gallon of sterile water for a variety of small tasks. Start by boiling about 1 gallon of water for 10 minutes and let it cool, covered, to room temperature.

Table 1 - Cleaning and Sanitizing Checklist Brewpot __ Clean Stirring Spoon __ Clean Tablespoon __ Clean __ Sanitize Measuring Cup __ Clean __ Sanitize Yeast Starter Jar __ Clean __ Sanitize Fermentor and Lid __ Clean __ Sanitize Airlock __ Clean __ Sanitize Thermometer __ Clean __ Sanitize 

 '''Clean and sanitize.'''

It may seem strange to the first-time brewer, but probably the most important thing in brewing is good cleaning and sanitization. Clean all equipment that will be used during the brew with a mild, unscented dish detergent, making sure to rinse well. Some equipment will need to be sanitized for use after the boiling stage. You can easily make a simple sanitizing solution by filling the fermentor bucket with 5 gallons of water and adding 5 tablespoons of chlorine bleach (a concentration equivalent to 1 TBS/gallon, or 4 ml/L). Soak all items that need to be sanitized in this bucket for 20 minutes. After soaking, dump the sanitizing solution and pour in some of the pre-boiled water for a quick rinse to remove any excess sanitizer. Place the small spoon and the thermometer in the yeast starter jar and cover it with plastic wrap. Cover the fermentor with the lid to keep it clean. (See Chapter 2- Preparations, for more info,)

Making Wort- (1 1/2 Hours) Now we begin the fun part of the work, creating the wort. Wort is what brewers call the sweet, amber liquid extracted from malted barley that the yeast will later ferment into beer.

 

'''Boil the brew water.'''

In the brewpot, bring 2 gallons of water to a boil. Pour this water into the fermentor and leave it to cool. Now bring 3 gallons of water to boil in the brewpot. You will be boiling all of the extract in just 3 gallons and adding this concentrated wort to the water already in the fermentor to make the total 5 gallons. (See Chapter - Water for Extract Brewing, for more info.)

Note: If your beer kit includes some crushed specialty grain, you will need to steep that first before adding the extract. (See Chapter 13 - Steeping Specialty Grain, for more info.)

 

'''Rehydrate the dried yeast.'''

Although many people skip this step with fair results, re-hydrating it assures the best results. While you are waiting for the brew water to boil, rehydrate two packets of dried ale yeast. Put 1 cup of warm (95-105°F, 35-40°C), preboiled water into your sanitized jar and stir in the yeast. Cover with plastic wrap and wait 15 minutes.

 

Next, "proof" the yeast. Start by adding one teaspoon of malt extract or table sugar to a small amount of water (1/4 cup, for example) and boil it to sanitize. (A microwave oven is good for this step.) Allow the sugar solution to cool and then add it to the yeast jar. Cover and place in a warm area out of direct sunlight. Check after 30 minutes, it should be exhibiting some signs of activity - some foaming and/or churning. If it just seems to sit on the bottom of the jar, then it is probably dead. Repeat the rehydration procedure with more yeast. (See Chapter 6 - Yeast, for more info.)

 

'''Add malt extract.'''

When the water in the brewpot is boiling, turn off the stove and stir in the malt extract. Be sure the extract is completely dissolved (if your malt extract is the dry variety, make sure there are no clumps; if the extract is syrup, make sure that none is stuck to the bottom of the pot). Next, turn the heat back on and resume the boil. Stir the wort regularly during the boil to be sure that it doesn't scorch.

'''Add hops.'''

If you are using unhopped extract, add the first (bittering) hop addition and begin timing the hour-long boil.(See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.)

 

'''Watch for boilovers.'''

As the wort boils, foam will form on the surface. This foam will persist until the wort goes through the "hot break" stage . The wort will easily boil over during this foaming stage, so stay close by and stir frequently . Blow on it and turn the heat down if it begins to boil over. Put a few copper pennies into the pot to help prevent boilovers.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling for more info.)

'''Add finishing hops (optional).'''

If you are using unhopped malt extract or want to add more character to hopped extract, add finishing hops during the last 15 minutes of the hour-long boil. (See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.)

'''Shut down the boil.'''

The boil time for extract beers depends on two things: waiting for the "hot break" (See Step 8) and boiling for hop additions. In a nutshell, if you are using hopped extract without any added hops then you only need to boil through the hot break stage, about 15 minutes. With some extracts, the hot break will be very weak, and you may have little foam to begin with. If you are using hopped extract but adding flavoring or aroma hops, then you will probably want to boil for 30 minutes. If you are using unhopped extract, then you will need to add hops for bittering and should boil for an hour. (See Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits, Chapter 5 - Hops, and Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.)

 

'''Cool the wort.'''

After the boil, the wort must be cooled to yeast pitching temperature (65-90 °F [18-32 °C]) as quickly as possible. To do this, immerse the pot in a cold water bath. A sink, bathtub, or a handy snowbank all work well. Be sure to keep the lid on the pot while cooling to prevent any cooling water or other potential contaminants from getting in.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.)

 

== Fermentation ==

The science of fermentation is discussed in Chapter 8 - Fermentation. Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Batch, walks you through the application of that science, so that from 10 ft. away, you will be able to perspicaciously inform curious onlookers that the beer is in the Adaptive, Attenuative, or Conditioning phase of activity.

'''Pitch the yeast.'''

Pour the rehydrated yeast solution into the fermentation bucket.

'''Add cooled wort.'''

Pour the cooled wort into the fermentation bucket "aggressively," so that it splashes and churns in the bucket. This action adds the oxygen yeast need for growth. This is the only time during the brewing process that you want the beer to be aerated or exposed to oxygen. All other transfers should be done "quietly," with a sanitized siphon and very little disturbance in the flow and minimal contact with the air.If you had added hops during the boil, you can remove them during this step by pouring the wort into the fermentor through a strainer. It is not necessary to remove the hops, however.

 

How to Siphon When racking or bottling , you cannot start a siphon by sucking on it or you will contaminate and sour the batch with bacteria from your mouth.

All parts of the siphon (racking cane, tubing, and cutoff valve or bottle filler) need to be sanitized, especially the inside. After sanitizing, leave the siphon full of sanitizer and carefully place the racking cane in your beer. Release the clamp/valve or your clean-and-sanitized thumb and allow the sanitizer to drain into a jar. Make sure the outlet is lower than the fermenter, or you will drain the sanitizer into your beer.

As the sanitizer drains, it will draw the beer into the siphon and you can stop and transfer the outlet to your bottling bucket or bottles. Thus you can siphon without risk of contamination. 

 '''Store the fermentor.'''

Put the lid tightly on the fermentor and carry it to a secure location where it will be undisturbed for two weeks. Choose a location that has a stable temperature of 65-70 °F (18-21 °C). A warmer temperature of 75 °F (24 °C) is okay, but above 80 °F (26 °C) the flavor of the beer will be affected. As soon as you have finished moving it, insert the airlock.

 

'''Leave it alone!'''

After about 24 hours, the airlock will be bubbling steadily, the exciting evidence of fermentation. The fermentation will proceed like this for two to four days, depending on the conditions of your fermentation. The activity will decrease as most of the malt sugars are consumed by the yeast, though the yeast will continue to ferment the beer long after the bubbling diminishes. Leave the beer in the fermentor for a total of two weeks.

'''Clean Up.'''

Now is the time to wash out your brewpot and other equipment. Only use mild unscented detergents, or the cleaners recommended in Chapter 2, and rinse well.

 

== '''Le jour de l'embouteillage.''' ==

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day1.jpg]]

Le deuxième grand jour dans votre vie de brasseur arrive deux semaines plus tard, après la fin de la fermentation. Vous retrouverez les données esquissées ci-dessous dans le chapitre 11 - Amorçage et embouteillage. Pour ce faire, vous devez avoir:

-48 (12oz [33cl.]) bouteilles
-Un écouvillon (voire une brosse de cuisine ou de ménage)
-Une capsuleuse (en vente en magasin spécialisé)
-Des capsules (en vente en magasin spécialisé)
-Un seau (fondamentalement, un seau équipé d'un robinet et d'un remplisseur de bouteille)
-Une canne de transvasement/siphon/remplisseur de bouteilles
-Du sucre (4-5oz [113-142gr] par volume, ''soit 5.9-7.5gr/litres [ndt]'')

'''1. Préparez vos bouteilles.''' Un brassin typique de 5 gallons [18.9 litres] requière deux caisses (48) de bouteilles de 12oz [33cl.] pour l'embouteillage. Il faut nettoyer et désinfecter consciencieusement les bouteilles avant usage. Si vous utilisez de vieilles bouteilles, vérifiez qu'il n'y ait pas de saletés ou de moisissures à l'intérieur. Elles doivent être brossées avec un écouvillon pour qu'elles soient réellement propre. On nettoie d'abord pour désinfecter ensuite.

'''2. Préparez vos capsules.''' Les capsules doivent être désinfectées avant usage, la meilleur manière étant de les plonger dans un liquide désinfectant. Certains brasseurs utilisent des bouteilles à couronnes (style Groelsch). La partie en céramique peut être désinfectée avec les bouteilles. Les joints en caoutchouc peuvent être désinfectés comme les capsules de bouteille.

'''3. Préparez votre sucre d'amorçage.''' Nous ajoutons une solution d'amorçage juste avant la mise en bouteille pour permettre à la bière de carbonater en bouteille. Faites bouillir 3/4 de tasse (4-5oz [113-142gr] par volume) de sucre blanc ou 2/3 de tasse (3.8-4.8oz [107-136gr] par volume) de sucre de canne dans deux tasses d'eau. Couvrez la casserole et laissez refroidir.

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day2.jpg]]

'''4. Mélangez la bière et le sucre d'amorçage.''' La meilleur méthode est d'utiliser un récipient séparé, de la même contenance que votre fermenteur, comme "seau d'embouteillage". Nettoyez le, désinfectez le et versez le sirop au fond. Ensuite, siphonnez la bière du fermenteur vers le seau. Il faut éviter de verser simplement dans le fût, ou d'éclabousser en siphonnant. Pour cela, placez le bout du siphon sous la surface de la bière pour le remplir. Le mouvement tourbillonnant de la bière à son entrée dans le seau sera suffisant pour mélanger uniformément le sirop et la bière, sans l'aérer.

Si vous n'avez pas de seau d'embouteillage, vous pouvez verser doucement le sirop dans le fermenteur et remuer lentement. Laissez reposer 15-30 minutes pour que les sédiments retombent. Il ne reste plus qu'à fixer un remplisseur à votre siphon pour embouteiller.

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day3.jpg]] [[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day4.jpg]]

'''5. Les bouteilles.''' Remplissez avec précaution les bouteilles, placez une capsule désinfectée sur chacune d'elles avant de verrouiller le tout avec une capsuleuse.

'''6. Entreposez les bouteilles.''' Placez les bouteilles à l'abri de la lumière et à température ambiante (65-75°F [18-24°C]). La carbonatation va prendre environ deux semaines. Les bouteilles auront une fine couche de levures dans le fonds.

== Bottling Day ==

 The second big day in your career as a homebrewer comes two weeks later, after fermentation is complete. Everything outlined below is thoroughly discussed in Chapter 11 - Priming and Bottling. To bottle your beer, you will need:

48 (12-oz) bottles bottle brush (kitchen or household cleaning variety is OK) bottle capper (from homebrew shop) bottle caps (from homebrew shop) bottling bucket (basically another fermentor bucket with a spigot and bottle filler attached) racking cane/siphon/bottle filler (from homebrew shop) Sugar (4-5 oz by weight)

'''Prepare your bottles'''

A typical 5-gallon batch requires two cases (48) of 12-oz bottles for bottling. Thoroughly clean and sanitize the bottles before use. If you are using old bottles, check them inside for dirt or mold deposits. They may need to be scrubbed with a bottle brush to get them really clean. Always clean first, then sanitize.

'''Prepare your bottle caps'''

Bottle caps must be sanitized before use, and the best way is to soak them in sanitizing solution. Some brewers use flip-top (Groelsch style) bottles. The ceramic part of the flip tops can be sanitized along with the bottles. The rubber seals can be sanitized like the bottle caps.

'''Prepare your priming sugar'''

We add a priming solution just before bottling to provide carbonation to the beer in the bottle. Boil 3/4 cup (4-5 oz by weight) of corn sugar or 2/3 cup (3.8-4.8 oz by weight) of cane sugar in two cups of water. Cover the pan and allow it to cool.

 

'''Combine beer and priming sugar'''

The best method for preparing the beer and priming sugar solution is to use a separate container the same size as your fermentor as a "bottling bucket." Clean and sanitize it and pour the priming solution into it. Next, siphon the beer from the fermentor into the bottling bucket. Don't simply pour the beer into the bucket, and don't let the beer splash as you siphon it in. Instead, put the end of the siphon under the surface of the beer as it fills. The swirling motion of the beer as it enters the bucket will be sufficient to evenly mix the priming solution into the beer without aeration.

If you don't have a bottling bucket, you can gently pour the priming solution into the fermentor and gently stir it. Allow the sediment in the fermentor to settle for 15-30 minutes before proceeding. You can fill the bottles using the bottle filler attachment on your siphon.

 

'''Bottle'''

Carefully fill the bottles with the primed beer, place a sanitized bottle cap on each bottle, and crimp it using the bottle capper. At this stage it is helpful to have a friend operate the capper while you fill the bottles.

 

 

 

'''Store the bottles'''

Place the capped bottles out of the light in a warm (room temperature) environment (65-75 °F [18-24 °C]). The bottles will take about two weeks to carbonate. The bottles will have a thin layer of yeast on the bottom.

 

 

== '''Le jour de la dégustation.''' ==

[[Image:1_1_4_Serving_day1.jpg]]

Enfin, vous pouvez déguster les fruits de vos efforts. Cela a duré environ un mois, et vous êtes prêt à ouvrir votre première bouteille afin de voir quel merveilleuse bière vous avez créé. Au cours des deux dernières semaines, les levures encore en suspension dans la bière ont consommé le sucre d'amorçage, créant juste assez de CO2 pour carbonater la bière à la perfection.

Vous n'avez peut être pas su attendre si longtemps et avez déjà ouvert une bouteille. Vous avez sans doute remarqué que la bière n'était pas complètement carbonatée ou bien en donnait l'apparence, mais sans l'endurance. La bière avait probablement un goût "vert", signe qu'elle était jeune. Les deux semaines de garde renforcent non seulement la carbonatation, mais permettent également d'harmoniser les saveurs.

'''1. Refroidir sa bière.''' La bière n'a pas besoin d'être stockée au frais. Elle se conserve environ 6 mois, cela dépendant du niveau d'exposition à l'oxygène lors de la dernière étape de fermentation et de l'embouteillage. Mais vous voudrez probablement la rafraîchir avant de la servir. La température optimale de service dépend du style, variant de 40 à 55°F [4-12°C]. En général, plus la bière est sombre, plus elle sera servie chambrée.

'''2. Verser la bière.''' Pour verser la bière sans avoir les levures dans le verre, inclinez doucement la bouteille pour ne pas remuer la couche de levure au fond de la bouteille. Avec la pratique, vous serez capable de vider la bouteille en ne laissant qu'un quart de pouce ''[7mm, ndt]'', sans verser les levures dans le verre.

'''3. Savourer les flaveurs.''' Finalement, prenez une bonne gorgée et savourez la bière que vous avez créé. Ne vous pressez pas -il en reste suffisamment (47 bouteilles, en fait). Prenez le temps d'évaluer les flaveurs, la qualité de l'amertume, sa douceur et son niveau de carbonatation. Ces observations sont les premières étapes pour apprécier une bière et créer vos propres recettes.

== Serving Day ==

 At last, you get to sample the fruit of your efforts. It's been about a month, and you are ready to open your first bottle and see what kind of wonderful beer you have created. During the past two weeks, the yeast still swimming around in the beer have consumed the priming sugar, creating just enough carbon dioxide to carbonate your beer perfectly.

OK, so maybe you couldn't wait this long and you already opened a bottle. You may have noticed the beer wasn't fully carbonated or that it seemed carbonated but the bubbles had no staying power. You may have also noticed a "green" flavor. That flavor is the sign of a young beer. The two-week "conditioning" period not only adds carbonation but also gives the beer flavors time to meld and balance out.

'''Chill your beer'''

The bottled beer does not need to be stored cold. It will keep for approximately six months, depending on how well you managed to avoid exposure to oxygen during the last stage of fermentation and the bottling process. You will probably want to chill it before serving, however. The optimal temperature for serving beer depends on the style, varying from 40-55°F (4-12°C). In general, the darker the beer, the warmer you serve it.

'''Pouring your beer'''

To pour the beer without getting yeast in your glass, tip the bottle slowly to avoid disturbing the yeast layer on the bottom of the bottle. With practice, you will be able to pour everything but the last quarter inch of beer without getting any yeast in your glass.

'''Savor the flavor'''

Finally, take a deep draught and savor the flavor of the beer you have created. Don't rush it - there's plenty more (47 bottles, in fact). Take time to evaluate the flavor, its bitterness qualities, its sweetness, the level of carbonation. These observations are your first steps to beer appreciation and designing your own recipes.

== '''Continuez à lire! Continuez de brasser!''' ==

Si vous voulez en apprendre plus sur le brassage -comment cela fonctionne, pourquoi cela marche, comment prendre du plaisir à créer vos propres recettes et assimiler les techniques avancées- alors je vous encourage à continuer à lire. Les prochains chapitres de ce livre vous guideront à nouveau au travers du brassage d'extraits, mais cette fois-ci avec plus d'explications. Ils comprennent des descriptions des principales variétés de houblons, de levures et de malts qui feront de chaque brassage et de chaque bière un moment unique. Dans les derniers chapitres, je vous apprendrai à brasser à partir du début, sans extraits, en utilisant l'orge malté lui-même. Ce type de brassage vous permet de vraiment contrôler le produit final, et beaucoup de brasseurs trouvent dans le "tout-grain" la manière la plus satisfaisante de brasser.

J'espère sincèrement que ce livre vous apportera le même plaisir et le même enthousiasme pour ce passe-temps que je ne l'ai éprouvé, et qu'il vous permettra de brasser quelques extraordinaires bières.

Le chapitre suivant décrit les préparatifs du brassage plus en détail. Une bonne préparation est l'étape la plus importante pour assurer le succès d'un brassin.

== '''Read On! Brew On!''' ==

If you want to learn more about brewing beer - how it works, why it works, and how to have fun creating your own recipes and taking on advanced techniques - then I encourage you to keep reading. The next chapters in this book will lead you through extract brewing again, but this time with more explanation. They include descriptions of the great variety of hops, yeast strains, and malts that can make each brewing session and every beer unique. In later chapters, I will teach you how to brew beer from scratch, without extracts, using the malted barley itself. This kind of brewing really puts you in control of the final product, and many brewers find this "all-grain" type of brewing to be the most satisfying.

It is my sincere hope that this book will enable you to derive the same sense of fun and enthusiasm for this hobby that I have experienced, and that it will enable you to brew some really outstanding beer.

The next chapter describes brewing preparation in more detail. Good preparation is the most important step to assuring a successful batch.

How to brew/Section 1/Chap 1 : Cours de brassage accéléré

2009-02-16T10:39:43Z

Chrodegang : /* Serving Day */

== What Do I Do? ==

If you are like me, you are probably standing in the kitchen, wanting to get started, your beer kit and equipment on the counter, wondering how long this will take and what to do first. Frankly, the first thing you should do is read all of Section I - Brewing Your First Beer With Extract. This book is going to teach you How To Brew, from the fundamentals to the advanced methods; you won't be confused by conflicting instructions on a beer kit, and you will have an outstanding first batch.

But if you are like me, you probably want to do this right now while you have some time. (It's going to take about 3 hours, depending.) So, in this first chapter, I will walk you through the steps necessary to get your first batch bubbling in the fermentor, and give you an overview of what you will do to ferment and bottle your beer.

The instructions in this chapter may not explain why you are doing each step or even what you are doing. To understand the Whats and Whys of brewing, you will need to read the rest of this book. Each of the chapters in Section I discuss the brewing steps in detail, giving you the purpose behind each step. You will know what you are doing, rather than doing it that way because "that's what it said..." You will know how long to boil the wort, how to really use hops, why to bother cooling the wort, why to bother re-hydrating the yeast, why to wait two weeks before bottling... Get the picture?

But, if you can't wait, this chapter should see you through. Beer production can be broken down into 3 main events: Brew Day, Fermentation, and Bottling Day. If you have questions about terminology or equipment, be sure to review the Glossary and Required Equipment sections via the links at the top of the page.

 

== Brew Day ==

 Equipment Needed Let's review the minimum equipment you will need for this first batch:

a 20 qt. brew pot (large canning pot) large stirring spoon (non-wood) ordinary table spoon measuring cup (preferably Pyrex glass) glass jar (at least 12 oz) fermentor (food-grade plastic bucket or glass carboy) airlock (get from homebrew shop) sanitizer (chlorine bleach or other) thermometer (optional)

 

Recipe Cincinnati Pale Ale Ingredients for a 5 gallon batch

3-4 lb. Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped 2 lb. Amber dry malt extract 12 AAU of bittering hops (any variety) For example, 1 oz. of 12% AA Nugget, or 1.5 oz. of 8% AA Perle 5 AAU of finishing hops (Cascade or other) For example, 1 oz. of 5% Cascade or 1.25 oz. of 4% Liberty 2 packets of dried ale yeast 

 

 Preparation (45 Minutes) 

'''Assemble ingredients.'''

Gather together the ingredients for the brew. You may have purchased a brewing kit at the homebrew shop and it will contain the ingredients needed to brew a particular style of beer. A kit usually consists of malt extract, yeast, and hops. The extract may already be "hopped" and the kit may not include any hops.

If you don't have a kit, then head to a homebrew supply store and buy the ingredients outlined in the recipe here. You will notice that the recipe calls for various quantities of hops measured in AAUs. AAU stands for alpha-acid units. Briefly, an AAU is a unit obtained by multiplying the alpha-acid rating of the hop (a percentage value) by the weight (ounces) that you intend to use. For example, 2 oz of a 6% alpha-acid hop equals 12 AAUs. Every package of hops you buy will list the hop's alpha-acid rating. To figure out how much of a hop you will need for this recipe, just divide the AAU target by the alpha-acid percentage on your hops. For example, 12 AAUs divided by 12 (Nugget hop's alpha-acid rating) equals 1 oz; 12 AAUs divided by 8 (Perle hop's alpha rating) equals 1 1/2 oz. (See Chapter 5 - Hops, for more info.)

 

'''Boil water.'''

You will need at least a gallon of sterile water for a variety of small tasks. Start by boiling about 1 gallon of water for 10 minutes and let it cool, covered, to room temperature.

Table 1 - Cleaning and Sanitizing Checklist Brewpot __ Clean Stirring Spoon __ Clean Tablespoon __ Clean __ Sanitize Measuring Cup __ Clean __ Sanitize Yeast Starter Jar __ Clean __ Sanitize Fermentor and Lid __ Clean __ Sanitize Airlock __ Clean __ Sanitize Thermometer __ Clean __ Sanitize 

 '''Clean and sanitize.'''

It may seem strange to the first-time brewer, but probably the most important thing in brewing is good cleaning and sanitization. Clean all equipment that will be used during the brew with a mild, unscented dish detergent, making sure to rinse well. Some equipment will need to be sanitized for use after the boiling stage. You can easily make a simple sanitizing solution by filling the fermentor bucket with 5 gallons of water and adding 5 tablespoons of chlorine bleach (a concentration equivalent to 1 TBS/gallon, or 4 ml/L). Soak all items that need to be sanitized in this bucket for 20 minutes. After soaking, dump the sanitizing solution and pour in some of the pre-boiled water for a quick rinse to remove any excess sanitizer. Place the small spoon and the thermometer in the yeast starter jar and cover it with plastic wrap. Cover the fermentor with the lid to keep it clean. (See Chapter 2- Preparations, for more info,)

Making Wort- (1 1/2 Hours) Now we begin the fun part of the work, creating the wort. Wort is what brewers call the sweet, amber liquid extracted from malted barley that the yeast will later ferment into beer.

 

'''Boil the brew water.'''

In the brewpot, bring 2 gallons of water to a boil. Pour this water into the fermentor and leave it to cool. Now bring 3 gallons of water to boil in the brewpot. You will be boiling all of the extract in just 3 gallons and adding this concentrated wort to the water already in the fermentor to make the total 5 gallons. (See Chapter - Water for Extract Brewing, for more info.)

Note: If your beer kit includes some crushed specialty grain, you will need to steep that first before adding the extract. (See Chapter 13 - Steeping Specialty Grain, for more info.)

 

'''Rehydrate the dried yeast.'''

Although many people skip this step with fair results, re-hydrating it assures the best results. While you are waiting for the brew water to boil, rehydrate two packets of dried ale yeast. Put 1 cup of warm (95-105°F, 35-40°C), preboiled water into your sanitized jar and stir in the yeast. Cover with plastic wrap and wait 15 minutes.

 

Next, "proof" the yeast. Start by adding one teaspoon of malt extract or table sugar to a small amount of water (1/4 cup, for example) and boil it to sanitize. (A microwave oven is good for this step.) Allow the sugar solution to cool and then add it to the yeast jar. Cover and place in a warm area out of direct sunlight. Check after 30 minutes, it should be exhibiting some signs of activity - some foaming and/or churning. If it just seems to sit on the bottom of the jar, then it is probably dead. Repeat the rehydration procedure with more yeast. (See Chapter 6 - Yeast, for more info.)

 

'''Add malt extract.'''

When the water in the brewpot is boiling, turn off the stove and stir in the malt extract. Be sure the extract is completely dissolved (if your malt extract is the dry variety, make sure there are no clumps; if the extract is syrup, make sure that none is stuck to the bottom of the pot). Next, turn the heat back on and resume the boil. Stir the wort regularly during the boil to be sure that it doesn't scorch.

'''Add hops.'''

If you are using unhopped extract, add the first (bittering) hop addition and begin timing the hour-long boil.(See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.)

 

'''Watch for boilovers.'''

As the wort boils, foam will form on the surface. This foam will persist until the wort goes through the "hot break" stage . The wort will easily boil over during this foaming stage, so stay close by and stir frequently . Blow on it and turn the heat down if it begins to boil over. Put a few copper pennies into the pot to help prevent boilovers.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling for more info.)

'''Add finishing hops (optional).'''

If you are using unhopped malt extract or want to add more character to hopped extract, add finishing hops during the last 15 minutes of the hour-long boil. (See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.)

'''Shut down the boil.'''

The boil time for extract beers depends on two things: waiting for the "hot break" (See Step 8) and boiling for hop additions. In a nutshell, if you are using hopped extract without any added hops then you only need to boil through the hot break stage, about 15 minutes. With some extracts, the hot break will be very weak, and you may have little foam to begin with. If you are using hopped extract but adding flavoring or aroma hops, then you will probably want to boil for 30 minutes. If you are using unhopped extract, then you will need to add hops for bittering and should boil for an hour. (See Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits, Chapter 5 - Hops, and Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.)

 

'''Cool the wort.'''

After the boil, the wort must be cooled to yeast pitching temperature (65-90 °F [18-32 °C]) as quickly as possible. To do this, immerse the pot in a cold water bath. A sink, bathtub, or a handy snowbank all work well. Be sure to keep the lid on the pot while cooling to prevent any cooling water or other potential contaminants from getting in.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.)

 

== Fermentation ==

The science of fermentation is discussed in Chapter 8 - Fermentation. Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Batch, walks you through the application of that science, so that from 10 ft. away, you will be able to perspicaciously inform curious onlookers that the beer is in the Adaptive, Attenuative, or Conditioning phase of activity.

'''Pitch the yeast.'''

Pour the rehydrated yeast solution into the fermentation bucket.

'''Add cooled wort.'''

Pour the cooled wort into the fermentation bucket "aggressively," so that it splashes and churns in the bucket. This action adds the oxygen yeast need for growth. This is the only time during the brewing process that you want the beer to be aerated or exposed to oxygen. All other transfers should be done "quietly," with a sanitized siphon and very little disturbance in the flow and minimal contact with the air.If you had added hops during the boil, you can remove them during this step by pouring the wort into the fermentor through a strainer. It is not necessary to remove the hops, however.

 

How to Siphon When racking or bottling , you cannot start a siphon by sucking on it or you will contaminate and sour the batch with bacteria from your mouth.

All parts of the siphon (racking cane, tubing, and cutoff valve or bottle filler) need to be sanitized, especially the inside. After sanitizing, leave the siphon full of sanitizer and carefully place the racking cane in your beer. Release the clamp/valve or your clean-and-sanitized thumb and allow the sanitizer to drain into a jar. Make sure the outlet is lower than the fermenter, or you will drain the sanitizer into your beer.

As the sanitizer drains, it will draw the beer into the siphon and you can stop and transfer the outlet to your bottling bucket or bottles. Thus you can siphon without risk of contamination. 

 '''Store the fermentor.'''

Put the lid tightly on the fermentor and carry it to a secure location where it will be undisturbed for two weeks. Choose a location that has a stable temperature of 65-70 °F (18-21 °C). A warmer temperature of 75 °F (24 °C) is okay, but above 80 °F (26 °C) the flavor of the beer will be affected. As soon as you have finished moving it, insert the airlock.

 

'''Leave it alone!'''

After about 24 hours, the airlock will be bubbling steadily, the exciting evidence of fermentation. The fermentation will proceed like this for two to four days, depending on the conditions of your fermentation. The activity will decrease as most of the malt sugars are consumed by the yeast, though the yeast will continue to ferment the beer long after the bubbling diminishes. Leave the beer in the fermentor for a total of two weeks.

'''Clean Up.'''

Now is the time to wash out your brewpot and other equipment. Only use mild unscented detergents, or the cleaners recommended in Chapter 2, and rinse well.

 

== '''L'embouteillage.''' ==

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day1.jpg]]

Le deuxième grand jour dans votre vie de brasseur arrive deux semaines plus tard, après la fin de la fermentation. Vous retrouverez les données esquissées ci-dessous dans le chapitre 11 - Amorçage et embouteillage. Pour ce faire, vous devez avoir:

-48 (12oz [33cl.]) bouteilles
-Un écouvillon (voire une brosse de cuisine ou de ménage)
-Une capsuleuse (en vente en magasin spécialisé)
-Des capsules (en vente en magasin spécialisé)
-Un seau (fondamentalement, un seau équipé d'un robinet et d'un remplisseur de bouteille)
-Une canne de transvasement/siphon/remplisseur de bouteilles
-Du sucre (4-5oz [113-142gr] par volume, ''soit 5.9-7.5gr/litres [ndt]'')

'''1. Préparez vos bouteilles.''' Un brassin typique de 5 gallons [18.9 litres] requière deux caisses (48) de bouteilles de 12oz [33cl.] pour l'embouteillage. Il faut nettoyer et désinfecter consciencieusement les bouteilles avant usage. Si vous utilisez de vieilles bouteilles, vérifiez qu'il n'y ait pas de saletés ou de moisissures à l'intérieur. Elles doivent être brossées avec un écouvillon pour qu'elles soient réellement propre. On nettoie d'abord pour désinfecter ensuite.

'''2. Préparez vos capsules.''' Les capsules doivent être désinfectées avant usage, la meilleur manière étant de les plonger dans un liquide désinfectant. Certains brasseurs utilisent des bouteilles à couronnes (style Groelsch). La partie en céramique peut être désinfectée avec les bouteilles. Les joints en caoutchouc peuvent être désinfectés comme les capsules de bouteille.

'''3. Préparez votre sucre d'amorçage.''' Nous ajoutons une solution d'amorçage juste avant la mise en bouteille pour permettre à la bière de carbonater en bouteille. Faites bouillir 3/4 de tasse (4-5oz [113-142gr] par volume) de sucre blanc ou 2/3 de tasse (3.8-4.8oz [107-136gr] par volume) de sucre de canne dans deux tasses d'eau. Couvrez la casserole et laissez refroidir.

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day2.jpg]]

'''4. Mélangez la bière et le sucre d'amorçage.''' La meilleur méthode est d'utiliser un récipient séparé, de la même contenance que votre fermenteur, comme "seau d'embouteillage". Nettoyez le, désinfectez le et versez le sirop au fond. Ensuite, siphonnez la bière du fermenteur vers le seau. Il faut éviter de verser simplement dans le fût, ou d'éclabousser en siphonnant. Pour cela, placez le bout du siphon sous la surface de la bière pour le remplir. Le mouvement tourbillonnant de la bière à son entrée dans le seau sera suffisant pour mélanger uniformément le sirop et la bière, sans l'aérer.

Si vous n'avez pas de seau d'embouteillage, vous pouvez verser doucement le sirop dans le fermenteur et remuer lentement. Laissez reposer 15-30 minutes pour que les sédiments retombent. Il ne reste plus qu'à fixer un remplisseur à votre siphon pour embouteiller.

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day3.jpg]] [[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day4.jpg]]

'''5. Les bouteilles.''' Remplissez avec précaution les bouteilles, placez une capsule désinfectée sur chacune d'elles avant de verrouiller le tout avec une capsuleuse.

'''6. Entreposez les bouteilles.''' Placez les bouteilles à l'abri de la lumière et à température ambiante (65-75°F [18-24°C]). La carbonatation va prendre environ deux semaines. Les bouteilles auront une fine couche de levures dans le fonds.

== Bottling Day ==

 The second big day in your career as a homebrewer comes two weeks later, after fermentation is complete. Everything outlined below is thoroughly discussed in Chapter 11 - Priming and Bottling. To bottle your beer, you will need:

48 (12-oz) bottles bottle brush (kitchen or household cleaning variety is OK) bottle capper (from homebrew shop) bottle caps (from homebrew shop) bottling bucket (basically another fermentor bucket with a spigot and bottle filler attached) racking cane/siphon/bottle filler (from homebrew shop) Sugar (4-5 oz by weight)

'''Prepare your bottles'''

A typical 5-gallon batch requires two cases (48) of 12-oz bottles for bottling. Thoroughly clean and sanitize the bottles before use. If you are using old bottles, check them inside for dirt or mold deposits. They may need to be scrubbed with a bottle brush to get them really clean. Always clean first, then sanitize.

'''Prepare your bottle caps'''

Bottle caps must be sanitized before use, and the best way is to soak them in sanitizing solution. Some brewers use flip-top (Groelsch style) bottles. The ceramic part of the flip tops can be sanitized along with the bottles. The rubber seals can be sanitized like the bottle caps.

'''Prepare your priming sugar'''

We add a priming solution just before bottling to provide carbonation to the beer in the bottle. Boil 3/4 cup (4-5 oz by weight) of corn sugar or 2/3 cup (3.8-4.8 oz by weight) of cane sugar in two cups of water. Cover the pan and allow it to cool.

 

'''Combine beer and priming sugar'''

The best method for preparing the beer and priming sugar solution is to use a separate container the same size as your fermentor as a "bottling bucket." Clean and sanitize it and pour the priming solution into it. Next, siphon the beer from the fermentor into the bottling bucket. Don't simply pour the beer into the bucket, and don't let the beer splash as you siphon it in. Instead, put the end of the siphon under the surface of the beer as it fills. The swirling motion of the beer as it enters the bucket will be sufficient to evenly mix the priming solution into the beer without aeration.

If you don't have a bottling bucket, you can gently pour the priming solution into the fermentor and gently stir it. Allow the sediment in the fermentor to settle for 15-30 minutes before proceeding. You can fill the bottles using the bottle filler attachment on your siphon.

 

'''Bottle'''

Carefully fill the bottles with the primed beer, place a sanitized bottle cap on each bottle, and crimp it using the bottle capper. At this stage it is helpful to have a friend operate the capper while you fill the bottles.

 

 

 

'''Store the bottles'''

Place the capped bottles out of the light in a warm (room temperature) environment (65-75 °F [18-24 °C]). The bottles will take about two weeks to carbonate. The bottles will have a thin layer of yeast on the bottom.

 

 

== '''Le jour de la dégustation.''' ==

[[Image:1_1_4_Serving_day1.jpg]]

Enfin, vous pouvez déguster les fruits de vos efforts. Cela a duré environ un mois, et vous êtes prêt à ouvrir votre première bouteille afin de voir quel merveilleuse bière vous avez créé. Au cours des deux dernières semaines, les levures encore en suspension dans la bière ont consommé le sucre d'amorçage, créant juste assez de CO2 pour carbonater la bière à la perfection.

Vous n'avez peut être pas su attendre si longtemps et avez déjà ouvert une bouteille. Vous avez sans doute remarqué que la bière n'était pas complètement carbonatée ou bien en donnait l'apparence, mais sans l'endurance. La bière avait probablement un goût "vert", signe qu'elle était jeune. Les deux semaines de garde renforcent non seulement la carbonatation, mais permettent également d'harmoniser les saveurs.

'''1. Refroidir sa bière.''' La bière n'a pas besoin d'être stockée au frais. Elle se conserve environ 6 mois, cela dépendant du niveau d'exposition à l'oxygène lors de la dernière étape de fermentation et de l'embouteillage. Mais vous voudrez probablement la rafraîchir avant de la servir. La température optimale de service dépend du style, variant de 40 à 55°F [4-12°C]. En général, plus la bière est sombre, plus elle sera servie chambrée.

'''2. Verser la bière.''' Pour verser la bière sans avoir les levures dans le verre, inclinez doucement la bouteille pour ne pas remuer la couche de levure au fond de la bouteille. Avec la pratique, vous serez capable de vider la bouteille en ne laissant qu'un quart de pouce ''[7mm, ndt]'', sans verser les levures dans le verre.

'''3. Savourer les flaveurs.''' Finalement, prenez une bonne gorgée et savourez la bière que vous avez créé. Ne vous pressez pas -il en reste suffisamment (47 bouteilles, en fait). Prenez le temps d'évaluer les flaveurs, la qualité de l'amertume, sa douceur et son niveau de carbonatation. Ces observations sont les premières étapes pour apprécier une bière et créer vos propres recettes.

== Serving Day ==

 At last, you get to sample the fruit of your efforts. It's been about a month, and you are ready to open your first bottle and see what kind of wonderful beer you have created. During the past two weeks, the yeast still swimming around in the beer have consumed the priming sugar, creating just enough carbon dioxide to carbonate your beer perfectly.

OK, so maybe you couldn't wait this long and you already opened a bottle. You may have noticed the beer wasn't fully carbonated or that it seemed carbonated but the bubbles had no staying power. You may have also noticed a "green" flavor. That flavor is the sign of a young beer. The two-week "conditioning" period not only adds carbonation but also gives the beer flavors time to meld and balance out.

'''Chill your beer'''

The bottled beer does not need to be stored cold. It will keep for approximately six months, depending on how well you managed to avoid exposure to oxygen during the last stage of fermentation and the bottling process. You will probably want to chill it before serving, however. The optimal temperature for serving beer depends on the style, varying from 40-55°F (4-12°C). In general, the darker the beer, the warmer you serve it.

'''Pouring your beer'''

To pour the beer without getting yeast in your glass, tip the bottle slowly to avoid disturbing the yeast layer on the bottom of the bottle. With practice, you will be able to pour everything but the last quarter inch of beer without getting any yeast in your glass.

'''Savor the flavor'''

Finally, take a deep draught and savor the flavor of the beer you have created. Don't rush it - there's plenty more (47 bottles, in fact). Take time to evaluate the flavor, its bitterness qualities, its sweetness, the level of carbonation. These observations are your first steps to beer appreciation and designing your own recipes.

== '''Continuez à lire! Continuez de brasser!''' ==

Si vous voulez en apprendre plus sur le brassage -comment cela fonctionne, pourquoi cela marche, comment prendre du plaisir à créer vos propres recettes et assimiler les techniques avancées- alors je vous encourage à continuer à lire. Les prochains chapitres de ce livre vous guideront à nouveau au travers du brassage d'extraits, mais cette fois-ci avec plus d'explications. Ils comprennent des descriptions des principales variétés de houblons, de levures et de malts qui feront de chaque brassage et de chaque bière un moment unique. Dans les derniers chapitres, je vous apprendrai à brasser à partir du début, sans extraits, en utilisant l'orge malté lui-même. Ce type de brassage vous permet de vraiment contrôler le produit final, et beaucoup de brasseurs trouvent dans le "tout-grain" la manière la plus satisfaisante de brasser.

J'espère sincèrement que ce livre vous apportera le même plaisir et le même enthousiasme pour ce passe-temps que je ne l'ai éprouvé, et qu'il vous permettra de brasser quelques extraordinaires bières.

Le chapitre suivant décrit les préparatifs du brassage plus en détail. Une bonne préparation est l'étape la plus importante pour assurer le succès d'un brassin.

== '''Read On! Brew On!''' ==

If you want to learn more about brewing beer - how it works, why it works, and how to have fun creating your own recipes and taking on advanced techniques - then I encourage you to keep reading. The next chapters in this book will lead you through extract brewing again, but this time with more explanation. They include descriptions of the great variety of hops, yeast strains, and malts that can make each brewing session and every beer unique. In later chapters, I will teach you how to brew beer from scratch, without extracts, using the malted barley itself. This kind of brewing really puts you in control of the final product, and many brewers find this "all-grain" type of brewing to be the most satisfying.

It is my sincere hope that this book will enable you to derive the same sense of fun and enthusiasm for this hobby that I have experienced, and that it will enable you to brew some really outstanding beer.

The next chapter describes brewing preparation in more detail. Good preparation is the most important step to assuring a successful batch.

How to brew/Section 1/Chap 1 : Cours de brassage accéléré

2009-02-16T10:32:50Z

Chrodegang : /* Bottling Day */

== What Do I Do? ==

If you are like me, you are probably standing in the kitchen, wanting to get started, your beer kit and equipment on the counter, wondering how long this will take and what to do first. Frankly, the first thing you should do is read all of Section I - Brewing Your First Beer With Extract. This book is going to teach you How To Brew, from the fundamentals to the advanced methods; you won't be confused by conflicting instructions on a beer kit, and you will have an outstanding first batch.

But if you are like me, you probably want to do this right now while you have some time. (It's going to take about 3 hours, depending.) So, in this first chapter, I will walk you through the steps necessary to get your first batch bubbling in the fermentor, and give you an overview of what you will do to ferment and bottle your beer.

The instructions in this chapter may not explain why you are doing each step or even what you are doing. To understand the Whats and Whys of brewing, you will need to read the rest of this book. Each of the chapters in Section I discuss the brewing steps in detail, giving you the purpose behind each step. You will know what you are doing, rather than doing it that way because "that's what it said..." You will know how long to boil the wort, how to really use hops, why to bother cooling the wort, why to bother re-hydrating the yeast, why to wait two weeks before bottling... Get the picture?

But, if you can't wait, this chapter should see you through. Beer production can be broken down into 3 main events: Brew Day, Fermentation, and Bottling Day. If you have questions about terminology or equipment, be sure to review the Glossary and Required Equipment sections via the links at the top of the page.

 

== Brew Day ==

 Equipment Needed Let's review the minimum equipment you will need for this first batch:

a 20 qt. brew pot (large canning pot) large stirring spoon (non-wood) ordinary table spoon measuring cup (preferably Pyrex glass) glass jar (at least 12 oz) fermentor (food-grade plastic bucket or glass carboy) airlock (get from homebrew shop) sanitizer (chlorine bleach or other) thermometer (optional)

 

Recipe Cincinnati Pale Ale Ingredients for a 5 gallon batch

3-4 lb. Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped 2 lb. Amber dry malt extract 12 AAU of bittering hops (any variety) For example, 1 oz. of 12% AA Nugget, or 1.5 oz. of 8% AA Perle 5 AAU of finishing hops (Cascade or other) For example, 1 oz. of 5% Cascade or 1.25 oz. of 4% Liberty 2 packets of dried ale yeast 

 

 Preparation (45 Minutes) 

'''Assemble ingredients.'''

Gather together the ingredients for the brew. You may have purchased a brewing kit at the homebrew shop and it will contain the ingredients needed to brew a particular style of beer. A kit usually consists of malt extract, yeast, and hops. The extract may already be "hopped" and the kit may not include any hops.

If you don't have a kit, then head to a homebrew supply store and buy the ingredients outlined in the recipe here. You will notice that the recipe calls for various quantities of hops measured in AAUs. AAU stands for alpha-acid units. Briefly, an AAU is a unit obtained by multiplying the alpha-acid rating of the hop (a percentage value) by the weight (ounces) that you intend to use. For example, 2 oz of a 6% alpha-acid hop equals 12 AAUs. Every package of hops you buy will list the hop's alpha-acid rating. To figure out how much of a hop you will need for this recipe, just divide the AAU target by the alpha-acid percentage on your hops. For example, 12 AAUs divided by 12 (Nugget hop's alpha-acid rating) equals 1 oz; 12 AAUs divided by 8 (Perle hop's alpha rating) equals 1 1/2 oz. (See Chapter 5 - Hops, for more info.)

 

'''Boil water.'''

You will need at least a gallon of sterile water for a variety of small tasks. Start by boiling about 1 gallon of water for 10 minutes and let it cool, covered, to room temperature.

Table 1 - Cleaning and Sanitizing Checklist Brewpot __ Clean Stirring Spoon __ Clean Tablespoon __ Clean __ Sanitize Measuring Cup __ Clean __ Sanitize Yeast Starter Jar __ Clean __ Sanitize Fermentor and Lid __ Clean __ Sanitize Airlock __ Clean __ Sanitize Thermometer __ Clean __ Sanitize 

 '''Clean and sanitize.'''

It may seem strange to the first-time brewer, but probably the most important thing in brewing is good cleaning and sanitization. Clean all equipment that will be used during the brew with a mild, unscented dish detergent, making sure to rinse well. Some equipment will need to be sanitized for use after the boiling stage. You can easily make a simple sanitizing solution by filling the fermentor bucket with 5 gallons of water and adding 5 tablespoons of chlorine bleach (a concentration equivalent to 1 TBS/gallon, or 4 ml/L). Soak all items that need to be sanitized in this bucket for 20 minutes. After soaking, dump the sanitizing solution and pour in some of the pre-boiled water for a quick rinse to remove any excess sanitizer. Place the small spoon and the thermometer in the yeast starter jar and cover it with plastic wrap. Cover the fermentor with the lid to keep it clean. (See Chapter 2- Preparations, for more info,)

Making Wort- (1 1/2 Hours) Now we begin the fun part of the work, creating the wort. Wort is what brewers call the sweet, amber liquid extracted from malted barley that the yeast will later ferment into beer.

 

'''Boil the brew water.'''

In the brewpot, bring 2 gallons of water to a boil. Pour this water into the fermentor and leave it to cool. Now bring 3 gallons of water to boil in the brewpot. You will be boiling all of the extract in just 3 gallons and adding this concentrated wort to the water already in the fermentor to make the total 5 gallons. (See Chapter - Water for Extract Brewing, for more info.)

Note: If your beer kit includes some crushed specialty grain, you will need to steep that first before adding the extract. (See Chapter 13 - Steeping Specialty Grain, for more info.)

 

'''Rehydrate the dried yeast.'''

Although many people skip this step with fair results, re-hydrating it assures the best results. While you are waiting for the brew water to boil, rehydrate two packets of dried ale yeast. Put 1 cup of warm (95-105°F, 35-40°C), preboiled water into your sanitized jar and stir in the yeast. Cover with plastic wrap and wait 15 minutes.

 

Next, "proof" the yeast. Start by adding one teaspoon of malt extract or table sugar to a small amount of water (1/4 cup, for example) and boil it to sanitize. (A microwave oven is good for this step.) Allow the sugar solution to cool and then add it to the yeast jar. Cover and place in a warm area out of direct sunlight. Check after 30 minutes, it should be exhibiting some signs of activity - some foaming and/or churning. If it just seems to sit on the bottom of the jar, then it is probably dead. Repeat the rehydration procedure with more yeast. (See Chapter 6 - Yeast, for more info.)

 

'''Add malt extract.'''

When the water in the brewpot is boiling, turn off the stove and stir in the malt extract. Be sure the extract is completely dissolved (if your malt extract is the dry variety, make sure there are no clumps; if the extract is syrup, make sure that none is stuck to the bottom of the pot). Next, turn the heat back on and resume the boil. Stir the wort regularly during the boil to be sure that it doesn't scorch.

'''Add hops.'''

If you are using unhopped extract, add the first (bittering) hop addition and begin timing the hour-long boil.(See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.)

 

'''Watch for boilovers.'''

As the wort boils, foam will form on the surface. This foam will persist until the wort goes through the "hot break" stage . The wort will easily boil over during this foaming stage, so stay close by and stir frequently . Blow on it and turn the heat down if it begins to boil over. Put a few copper pennies into the pot to help prevent boilovers.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling for more info.)

'''Add finishing hops (optional).'''

If you are using unhopped malt extract or want to add more character to hopped extract, add finishing hops during the last 15 minutes of the hour-long boil. (See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.)

'''Shut down the boil.'''

The boil time for extract beers depends on two things: waiting for the "hot break" (See Step 8) and boiling for hop additions. In a nutshell, if you are using hopped extract without any added hops then you only need to boil through the hot break stage, about 15 minutes. With some extracts, the hot break will be very weak, and you may have little foam to begin with. If you are using hopped extract but adding flavoring or aroma hops, then you will probably want to boil for 30 minutes. If you are using unhopped extract, then you will need to add hops for bittering and should boil for an hour. (See Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits, Chapter 5 - Hops, and Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.)

 

'''Cool the wort.'''

After the boil, the wort must be cooled to yeast pitching temperature (65-90 °F [18-32 °C]) as quickly as possible. To do this, immerse the pot in a cold water bath. A sink, bathtub, or a handy snowbank all work well. Be sure to keep the lid on the pot while cooling to prevent any cooling water or other potential contaminants from getting in.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.)

 

== Fermentation ==

The science of fermentation is discussed in Chapter 8 - Fermentation. Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Batch, walks you through the application of that science, so that from 10 ft. away, you will be able to perspicaciously inform curious onlookers that the beer is in the Adaptive, Attenuative, or Conditioning phase of activity.

'''Pitch the yeast.'''

Pour the rehydrated yeast solution into the fermentation bucket.

'''Add cooled wort.'''

Pour the cooled wort into the fermentation bucket "aggressively," so that it splashes and churns in the bucket. This action adds the oxygen yeast need for growth. This is the only time during the brewing process that you want the beer to be aerated or exposed to oxygen. All other transfers should be done "quietly," with a sanitized siphon and very little disturbance in the flow and minimal contact with the air.If you had added hops during the boil, you can remove them during this step by pouring the wort into the fermentor through a strainer. It is not necessary to remove the hops, however.

 

How to Siphon When racking or bottling , you cannot start a siphon by sucking on it or you will contaminate and sour the batch with bacteria from your mouth.

All parts of the siphon (racking cane, tubing, and cutoff valve or bottle filler) need to be sanitized, especially the inside. After sanitizing, leave the siphon full of sanitizer and carefully place the racking cane in your beer. Release the clamp/valve or your clean-and-sanitized thumb and allow the sanitizer to drain into a jar. Make sure the outlet is lower than the fermenter, or you will drain the sanitizer into your beer.

As the sanitizer drains, it will draw the beer into the siphon and you can stop and transfer the outlet to your bottling bucket or bottles. Thus you can siphon without risk of contamination. 

 '''Store the fermentor.'''

Put the lid tightly on the fermentor and carry it to a secure location where it will be undisturbed for two weeks. Choose a location that has a stable temperature of 65-70 °F (18-21 °C). A warmer temperature of 75 °F (24 °C) is okay, but above 80 °F (26 °C) the flavor of the beer will be affected. As soon as you have finished moving it, insert the airlock.

 

'''Leave it alone!'''

After about 24 hours, the airlock will be bubbling steadily, the exciting evidence of fermentation. The fermentation will proceed like this for two to four days, depending on the conditions of your fermentation. The activity will decrease as most of the malt sugars are consumed by the yeast, though the yeast will continue to ferment the beer long after the bubbling diminishes. Leave the beer in the fermentor for a total of two weeks.

'''Clean Up.'''

Now is the time to wash out your brewpot and other equipment. Only use mild unscented detergents, or the cleaners recommended in Chapter 2, and rinse well.

 

== '''L'embouteillage.''' ==

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day1.jpg]]

Le deuxième grand jour dans votre vie de brasseur arrive deux semaines plus tard, après la fin de la fermentation. Vous retrouverez les données esquissées ci-dessous dans le chapitre 11 - Amorçage et embouteillage. Pour ce faire, vous devez avoir:

-48 (12oz [33cl.]) bouteilles
-Un écouvillon (voire une brosse de cuisine ou de ménage)
-Une capsuleuse (en vente en magasin spécialisé)
-Des capsules (en vente en magasin spécialisé)
-Un seau (fondamentalement, un seau équipé d'un robinet et d'un remplisseur de bouteille)
-Une canne de transvasement/siphon/remplisseur de bouteilles
-Du sucre (4-5oz [113-142gr] par volume, ''soit 5.9-7.5gr/litres [ndt]'')

'''1. Préparez vos bouteilles.''' Un brassin typique de 5 gallons [18.9 litres] requière deux caisses (48) de bouteilles de 12oz [33cl.] pour l'embouteillage. Il faut nettoyer et désinfecter consciencieusement les bouteilles avant usage. Si vous utilisez de vieilles bouteilles, vérifiez qu'il n'y ait pas de saletés ou de moisissures à l'intérieur. Elles doivent être brossées avec un écouvillon pour qu'elles soient réellement propre. On nettoie d'abord pour désinfecter ensuite.

'''2. Préparez vos capsules.''' Les capsules doivent être désinfectées avant usage, la meilleur manière étant de les plonger dans un liquide désinfectant. Certains brasseurs utilisent des bouteilles à couronnes (style Groelsch). La partie en céramique peut être désinfectée avec les bouteilles. Les joints en caoutchouc peuvent être désinfectés comme les capsules de bouteille.

'''3. Préparez votre sucre d'amorçage.''' Nous ajoutons une solution d'amorçage juste avant la mise en bouteille pour permettre à la bière de carbonater en bouteille. Faites bouillir 3/4 de tasse (4-5oz [113-142gr] par volume) de sucre blanc ou 2/3 de tasse (3.8-4.8oz [107-136gr] par volume) de sucre de canne dans deux tasses d'eau. Couvrez la casserole et laissez refroidir.

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day2.jpg]]

'''4. Mélangez la bière et le sucre d'amorçage.''' La meilleur méthode est d'utiliser un récipient séparé, de la même contenance que votre fermenteur, comme "seau d'embouteillage". Nettoyez le, désinfectez le et versez le sirop au fond. Ensuite, siphonnez la bière du fermenteur vers le seau. Il faut éviter de verser simplement dans le fût, ou d'éclabousser en siphonnant. Pour cela, placez le bout du siphon sous la surface de la bière pour le remplir. Le mouvement tourbillonnant de la bière à son entrée dans le seau sera suffisant pour mélanger uniformément le sirop et la bière, sans l'aérer.

Si vous n'avez pas de seau d'embouteillage, vous pouvez verser doucement le sirop dans le fermenteur et remuer lentement. Laissez reposer 15-30 minutes pour que les sédiments retombent. Il ne reste plus qu'à fixer un remplisseur à votre siphon pour embouteiller.

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day3.jpg]] [[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day4.jpg]]

'''5. Les bouteilles.''' Remplissez avec précaution les bouteilles, placez une capsule désinfectée sur chacune d'elles avant de verrouiller le tout avec une capsuleuse.

'''6. Entreposez les bouteilles.''' Placez les bouteilles à l'abri de la lumière et à température ambiante (65-75°F [18-24°C]). La carbonatation va prendre environ deux semaines. Les bouteilles auront une fine couche de levures dans le fonds.

== Bottling Day ==

 The second big day in your career as a homebrewer comes two weeks later, after fermentation is complete. Everything outlined below is thoroughly discussed in Chapter 11 - Priming and Bottling. To bottle your beer, you will need:

48 (12-oz) bottles bottle brush (kitchen or household cleaning variety is OK) bottle capper (from homebrew shop) bottle caps (from homebrew shop) bottling bucket (basically another fermentor bucket with a spigot and bottle filler attached) racking cane/siphon/bottle filler (from homebrew shop) Sugar (4-5 oz by weight)

'''Prepare your bottles'''

A typical 5-gallon batch requires two cases (48) of 12-oz bottles for bottling. Thoroughly clean and sanitize the bottles before use. If you are using old bottles, check them inside for dirt or mold deposits. They may need to be scrubbed with a bottle brush to get them really clean. Always clean first, then sanitize.

'''Prepare your bottle caps'''

Bottle caps must be sanitized before use, and the best way is to soak them in sanitizing solution. Some brewers use flip-top (Groelsch style) bottles. The ceramic part of the flip tops can be sanitized along with the bottles. The rubber seals can be sanitized like the bottle caps.

'''Prepare your priming sugar'''

We add a priming solution just before bottling to provide carbonation to the beer in the bottle. Boil 3/4 cup (4-5 oz by weight) of corn sugar or 2/3 cup (3.8-4.8 oz by weight) of cane sugar in two cups of water. Cover the pan and allow it to cool.

 

'''Combine beer and priming sugar'''

The best method for preparing the beer and priming sugar solution is to use a separate container the same size as your fermentor as a "bottling bucket." Clean and sanitize it and pour the priming solution into it. Next, siphon the beer from the fermentor into the bottling bucket. Don't simply pour the beer into the bucket, and don't let the beer splash as you siphon it in. Instead, put the end of the siphon under the surface of the beer as it fills. The swirling motion of the beer as it enters the bucket will be sufficient to evenly mix the priming solution into the beer without aeration.

If you don't have a bottling bucket, you can gently pour the priming solution into the fermentor and gently stir it. Allow the sediment in the fermentor to settle for 15-30 minutes before proceeding. You can fill the bottles using the bottle filler attachment on your siphon.

 

'''Bottle'''

Carefully fill the bottles with the primed beer, place a sanitized bottle cap on each bottle, and crimp it using the bottle capper. At this stage it is helpful to have a friend operate the capper while you fill the bottles.

 

 

 

'''Store the bottles'''

Place the capped bottles out of the light in a warm (room temperature) environment (65-75 °F [18-24 °C]). The bottles will take about two weeks to carbonate. The bottles will have a thin layer of yeast on the bottom.

 

 

== '''Le jour de la dégustation.''' ==

[[Image:1_1_4_Serving_day1.jpg]]

Enfin, vous pouvez déguster les fruits de vos efforts. Cela a duré environ un mois, et vous êtes prêt à ouvrir votre première bouteille afin de voir quel merveilleuse bière vous avez créé. Au cours des deux dernières semaines, les levures encore en suspension dans la bière ont consommé le sucre d'amorçage, créant juste assez de CO2 pour carbonater la bière à la perfection.

Vous n'avez peut être pas su attendre si longtemps et avez déjà ouvert une bouteille. Vous avez sans doute remarqué que la bière n'était pas complètement carbonatée ou bien en donnait l'apparence, mais sans l'endurance. La bière avait probablement un goût "vert", signe qu'elle était jeune. Les deux semaines de garde renforcent non seulement la carbonatation, mais permettent également d'harmoniser les saveurs.

'''1. Refroidir sa bière.''' La bière n'a pas besoin d'être stockée au frais. Elle se conserve environ 6 mois, cela dépendant du niveau d'exposition à l'oxygène lors de la dernière étape de fermentation et de l'embouteillage. Mais vous voudrez probablement la rafraîchir avant de la servir. La température optimale de service dépend du style, variant de 40 à 55°F [4-12°C]. En général, plus la bière est sombre, plus elle sera servie chambrée.

'''2. Verser la bière.''' Pour verser la bière sans avoir les levures dans le verre, inclinez doucement la bouteille pour ne pas remuer la couche de levure au fond de la bouteille. Avec la pratique, vous serez capable de vider la bouteille en ne laissant qu'un quart de pouce ''[7mm, ndt]'', sans verser les levures dans le verre.

'''3. Savourer les flaveurs.''' Finalement, prenez une bonne gorgée et savourez la bière que vous avez créé. Ne vous pressez pas -il en reste suffisamment (47 bouteilles, en fait). Prenez le temps d'évaluer les flaveurs, la qualité de l'amertume, sa douceur et son niveau de carbonatation. Ces observations sont les premières étapes pour apprécier une bière et créer vos propres recettes.

== Serving Day ==

 At last, you get to sample the fruit of your efforts. It's been about a month, and you are ready to open your first bottle and see what kind of wonderful beer you have created. During the past two weeks, the yeast still swimming around in the beer have consumed the priming sugar, creating just enough carbon dioxide to carbonate your beer perfectly.

OK, so maybe you couldn't wait this long and you already opened a bottle. You may have noticed the beer wasn't fully carbonated or that it seemed carbonated but the bubbles had no staying power. You may have also noticed a "green" flavor. That flavor is the sign of a young beer. The two-week "conditioning" period not only adds carbonation but also gives the beer flavors time to meld and balance out.

'''Chill your beer'''

The bottled beer does not need to be stored cold. It will keep for approximately six months, depending on how well you managed to avoid exposure to oxygen during the last stage of fermentation and the bottling process. You will probably want to chill it before serving, however. The optimal temperature for serving beer depends on the style, varying from 40-55°F (4-12°C). In general, the darker the beer, the warmer you serve it.

'''Pouring your beer'''

To pour the beer without getting yeast in your glass, tip the bottle slowly to avoid disturbing the yeast layer on the bottom of the bottle. With practice, you will be able to pour everything but the last quarter inch of beer without getting any yeast in your glass.

'''Savor the flavor'''

Finally, take a deep draught and savor the flavor of the beer you have created. Don't rush it - there's plenty more (47 bottles, in fact). Take time to evaluate the flavor, its bitterness qualities, its sweetness, the level of carbonation. These observations are your first steps to beer appreciation and designing your own recipes.

How to brew/Section 1/Chap 1 : Cours de brassage accéléré

2009-02-16T10:29:54Z

Chrodegang : /* Serving Day */

== What Do I Do? ==

If you are like me, you are probably standing in the kitchen, wanting to get started, your beer kit and equipment on the counter, wondering how long this will take and what to do first. Frankly, the first thing you should do is read all of Section I - Brewing Your First Beer With Extract. This book is going to teach you How To Brew, from the fundamentals to the advanced methods; you won't be confused by conflicting instructions on a beer kit, and you will have an outstanding first batch.

But if you are like me, you probably want to do this right now while you have some time. (It's going to take about 3 hours, depending.) So, in this first chapter, I will walk you through the steps necessary to get your first batch bubbling in the fermentor, and give you an overview of what you will do to ferment and bottle your beer.

The instructions in this chapter may not explain why you are doing each step or even what you are doing. To understand the Whats and Whys of brewing, you will need to read the rest of this book. Each of the chapters in Section I discuss the brewing steps in detail, giving you the purpose behind each step. You will know what you are doing, rather than doing it that way because "that's what it said..." You will know how long to boil the wort, how to really use hops, why to bother cooling the wort, why to bother re-hydrating the yeast, why to wait two weeks before bottling... Get the picture?

But, if you can't wait, this chapter should see you through. Beer production can be broken down into 3 main events: Brew Day, Fermentation, and Bottling Day. If you have questions about terminology or equipment, be sure to review the Glossary and Required Equipment sections via the links at the top of the page.

 

== Brew Day ==

 Equipment Needed Let's review the minimum equipment you will need for this first batch:

a 20 qt. brew pot (large canning pot) large stirring spoon (non-wood) ordinary table spoon measuring cup (preferably Pyrex glass) glass jar (at least 12 oz) fermentor (food-grade plastic bucket or glass carboy) airlock (get from homebrew shop) sanitizer (chlorine bleach or other) thermometer (optional)

 

Recipe Cincinnati Pale Ale Ingredients for a 5 gallon batch

3-4 lb. Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped 2 lb. Amber dry malt extract 12 AAU of bittering hops (any variety) For example, 1 oz. of 12% AA Nugget, or 1.5 oz. of 8% AA Perle 5 AAU of finishing hops (Cascade or other) For example, 1 oz. of 5% Cascade or 1.25 oz. of 4% Liberty 2 packets of dried ale yeast 

 

 Preparation (45 Minutes) 

'''Assemble ingredients.'''

Gather together the ingredients for the brew. You may have purchased a brewing kit at the homebrew shop and it will contain the ingredients needed to brew a particular style of beer. A kit usually consists of malt extract, yeast, and hops. The extract may already be "hopped" and the kit may not include any hops.

If you don't have a kit, then head to a homebrew supply store and buy the ingredients outlined in the recipe here. You will notice that the recipe calls for various quantities of hops measured in AAUs. AAU stands for alpha-acid units. Briefly, an AAU is a unit obtained by multiplying the alpha-acid rating of the hop (a percentage value) by the weight (ounces) that you intend to use. For example, 2 oz of a 6% alpha-acid hop equals 12 AAUs. Every package of hops you buy will list the hop's alpha-acid rating. To figure out how much of a hop you will need for this recipe, just divide the AAU target by the alpha-acid percentage on your hops. For example, 12 AAUs divided by 12 (Nugget hop's alpha-acid rating) equals 1 oz; 12 AAUs divided by 8 (Perle hop's alpha rating) equals 1 1/2 oz. (See Chapter 5 - Hops, for more info.)

 

'''Boil water.'''

You will need at least a gallon of sterile water for a variety of small tasks. Start by boiling about 1 gallon of water for 10 minutes and let it cool, covered, to room temperature.

Table 1 - Cleaning and Sanitizing Checklist Brewpot __ Clean Stirring Spoon __ Clean Tablespoon __ Clean __ Sanitize Measuring Cup __ Clean __ Sanitize Yeast Starter Jar __ Clean __ Sanitize Fermentor and Lid __ Clean __ Sanitize Airlock __ Clean __ Sanitize Thermometer __ Clean __ Sanitize 

 '''Clean and sanitize.'''

It may seem strange to the first-time brewer, but probably the most important thing in brewing is good cleaning and sanitization. Clean all equipment that will be used during the brew with a mild, unscented dish detergent, making sure to rinse well. Some equipment will need to be sanitized for use after the boiling stage. You can easily make a simple sanitizing solution by filling the fermentor bucket with 5 gallons of water and adding 5 tablespoons of chlorine bleach (a concentration equivalent to 1 TBS/gallon, or 4 ml/L). Soak all items that need to be sanitized in this bucket for 20 minutes. After soaking, dump the sanitizing solution and pour in some of the pre-boiled water for a quick rinse to remove any excess sanitizer. Place the small spoon and the thermometer in the yeast starter jar and cover it with plastic wrap. Cover the fermentor with the lid to keep it clean. (See Chapter 2- Preparations, for more info,)

Making Wort- (1 1/2 Hours) Now we begin the fun part of the work, creating the wort. Wort is what brewers call the sweet, amber liquid extracted from malted barley that the yeast will later ferment into beer.

 

'''Boil the brew water.'''

In the brewpot, bring 2 gallons of water to a boil. Pour this water into the fermentor and leave it to cool. Now bring 3 gallons of water to boil in the brewpot. You will be boiling all of the extract in just 3 gallons and adding this concentrated wort to the water already in the fermentor to make the total 5 gallons. (See Chapter - Water for Extract Brewing, for more info.)

Note: If your beer kit includes some crushed specialty grain, you will need to steep that first before adding the extract. (See Chapter 13 - Steeping Specialty Grain, for more info.)

 

'''Rehydrate the dried yeast.'''

Although many people skip this step with fair results, re-hydrating it assures the best results. While you are waiting for the brew water to boil, rehydrate two packets of dried ale yeast. Put 1 cup of warm (95-105°F, 35-40°C), preboiled water into your sanitized jar and stir in the yeast. Cover with plastic wrap and wait 15 minutes.

 

Next, "proof" the yeast. Start by adding one teaspoon of malt extract or table sugar to a small amount of water (1/4 cup, for example) and boil it to sanitize. (A microwave oven is good for this step.) Allow the sugar solution to cool and then add it to the yeast jar. Cover and place in a warm area out of direct sunlight. Check after 30 minutes, it should be exhibiting some signs of activity - some foaming and/or churning. If it just seems to sit on the bottom of the jar, then it is probably dead. Repeat the rehydration procedure with more yeast. (See Chapter 6 - Yeast, for more info.)

 

'''Add malt extract.'''

When the water in the brewpot is boiling, turn off the stove and stir in the malt extract. Be sure the extract is completely dissolved (if your malt extract is the dry variety, make sure there are no clumps; if the extract is syrup, make sure that none is stuck to the bottom of the pot). Next, turn the heat back on and resume the boil. Stir the wort regularly during the boil to be sure that it doesn't scorch.

'''Add hops.'''

If you are using unhopped extract, add the first (bittering) hop addition and begin timing the hour-long boil.(See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.)

 

'''Watch for boilovers.'''

As the wort boils, foam will form on the surface. This foam will persist until the wort goes through the "hot break" stage . The wort will easily boil over during this foaming stage, so stay close by and stir frequently . Blow on it and turn the heat down if it begins to boil over. Put a few copper pennies into the pot to help prevent boilovers.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling for more info.)

'''Add finishing hops (optional).'''

If you are using unhopped malt extract or want to add more character to hopped extract, add finishing hops during the last 15 minutes of the hour-long boil. (See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.)

'''Shut down the boil.'''

The boil time for extract beers depends on two things: waiting for the "hot break" (See Step 8) and boiling for hop additions. In a nutshell, if you are using hopped extract without any added hops then you only need to boil through the hot break stage, about 15 minutes. With some extracts, the hot break will be very weak, and you may have little foam to begin with. If you are using hopped extract but adding flavoring or aroma hops, then you will probably want to boil for 30 minutes. If you are using unhopped extract, then you will need to add hops for bittering and should boil for an hour. (See Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits, Chapter 5 - Hops, and Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.)

 

'''Cool the wort.'''

After the boil, the wort must be cooled to yeast pitching temperature (65-90 °F [18-32 °C]) as quickly as possible. To do this, immerse the pot in a cold water bath. A sink, bathtub, or a handy snowbank all work well. Be sure to keep the lid on the pot while cooling to prevent any cooling water or other potential contaminants from getting in.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.)

 

== Fermentation ==

The science of fermentation is discussed in Chapter 8 - Fermentation. Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Batch, walks you through the application of that science, so that from 10 ft. away, you will be able to perspicaciously inform curious onlookers that the beer is in the Adaptive, Attenuative, or Conditioning phase of activity.

'''Pitch the yeast.'''

Pour the rehydrated yeast solution into the fermentation bucket.

'''Add cooled wort.'''

Pour the cooled wort into the fermentation bucket "aggressively," so that it splashes and churns in the bucket. This action adds the oxygen yeast need for growth. This is the only time during the brewing process that you want the beer to be aerated or exposed to oxygen. All other transfers should be done "quietly," with a sanitized siphon and very little disturbance in the flow and minimal contact with the air.If you had added hops during the boil, you can remove them during this step by pouring the wort into the fermentor through a strainer. It is not necessary to remove the hops, however.

 

How to Siphon When racking or bottling , you cannot start a siphon by sucking on it or you will contaminate and sour the batch with bacteria from your mouth.

All parts of the siphon (racking cane, tubing, and cutoff valve or bottle filler) need to be sanitized, especially the inside. After sanitizing, leave the siphon full of sanitizer and carefully place the racking cane in your beer. Release the clamp/valve or your clean-and-sanitized thumb and allow the sanitizer to drain into a jar. Make sure the outlet is lower than the fermenter, or you will drain the sanitizer into your beer.

As the sanitizer drains, it will draw the beer into the siphon and you can stop and transfer the outlet to your bottling bucket or bottles. Thus you can siphon without risk of contamination. 

 '''Store the fermentor.'''

Put the lid tightly on the fermentor and carry it to a secure location where it will be undisturbed for two weeks. Choose a location that has a stable temperature of 65-70 °F (18-21 °C). A warmer temperature of 75 °F (24 °C) is okay, but above 80 °F (26 °C) the flavor of the beer will be affected. As soon as you have finished moving it, insert the airlock.

 

'''Leave it alone!'''

After about 24 hours, the airlock will be bubbling steadily, the exciting evidence of fermentation. The fermentation will proceed like this for two to four days, depending on the conditions of your fermentation. The activity will decrease as most of the malt sugars are consumed by the yeast, though the yeast will continue to ferment the beer long after the bubbling diminishes. Leave the beer in the fermentor for a total of two weeks.

'''Clean Up.'''

Now is the time to wash out your brewpot and other equipment. Only use mild unscented detergents, or the cleaners recommended in Chapter 2, and rinse well.

 

== '''L'embouteillage.''' ==

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day1.jpg]]

Le deuxième grand jour dans votre vie de brasseur arrive deux semaines plus tard, après la fin de la fermentation. Vous retrouverez les données esquissées ci-dessous dans le chapitre 11 - Amorçage et embouteillage. Pour ce faire, vous devez avoir:

-48 (12oz [33cl.]) bouteilles
-Un écouvillon (voire une brosse de cuisine ou de ménage)
-Une capsuleuse (en vente en magasin spécialisé)
-Des capsules (en vente en magasin spécialisé)
-Un seau (fondamentalement, un seau équipé d'un robinet et d'un remplisseur de bouteille)
-Une canne de transvasement/siphon/remplisseur de bouteilles
-Du sucre (4-5oz [113-142gr] par volume, ''soit 5.9-7.5gr/litres [ndt]'')

'''1. Préparez vos bouteilles.''' Un brassin typique de 5 gallons [18.9 litres] requière deux caisses (48) de bouteilles de 12oz [33cl.] pour l'embouteillage. Il faut nettoyer et désinfecter consciencieusement les bouteilles avant usage. Si vous utilisez de vieilles bouteilles, vérifiez qu'il n'y ait pas de saletés ou de moisissures à l'intérieur. Elles doivent être brossées avec un écouvillon pour qu'elles soient réellement propre. On nettoie d'abord pour désinfecter ensuite.

'''2. Préparez vos capsules.''' Les capsules doivent être désinfectées avant usage, la meilleur manière étant de les plonger dans un liquide désinfectant. Certains brasseurs utilisent des bouteilles à couronnes (style Groelsch). La partie en céramique peut être désinfectée avec les bouteilles. Les joints en caoutchouc peuvent être désinfectés comme les capsules de bouteille.

'''3. Préparez votre sucre d'amorçage.''' Nous ajoutons une solution d'amorçage juste avant la mise en bouteille pour permettre à la bière de carbonater en bouteille. Faites bouillir 3/4 de tasse (4-5oz [113-142gr] par volume) de sucre blanc ou 2/3 de tasse (3.8-4.8oz [107-136gr] par volume) de sucre de canne dans deux tasses d'eau. Couvrez la casserole et laissez refroidir.

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day2.jpg]]

'''4. Mélangez la bière et le sucre d'amorçage.''' La meilleur méthode est d'utiliser un récipient séparé, de la même contenance que votre fermenteur, comme "seau d'embouteillage". Nettoyez le, désinfectez le et versez le sirop au fond. Ensuite, siphonnez la bière du fermenteur vers le seau. Il faut éviter de verser simplement dans le fût, ou d'éclabousser en siphonnant. Pour cela, placez le bout du siphon sous la surface de la bière pour le remplir. Le mouvement tourbillonnant de la bière à son entrée dans le seau sera suffisant pour mélanger uniformément le sirop et la bière, sans l'aérer.

Si vous n'avez pas de seau d'embouteillage, vous pouvez verser doucement le sirop dans le fermenteur et remuer lentement. Laissez reposer 15-30 minutes pour que les sédiments retombent. Il ne reste plus qu'à fixer un remplisseur à votre siphon pour embouteiller.

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day3.jpg]] [[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day4.jpg]]

'''5. Les bouteilles.''' Remplissez avec précaution les bouteilles, placez une capsule désinfectée sur chacune d'elles avant de verrouiller le tout avec une capsuleuse.

'''6. Entreposez les bouteilles.''' Placez les bouteilles à l'abri de la lumière et à température ambiante (65-75°F [18-24°C]). La carbonatation va prendre environ deux semaines. Les bouteilles auront une fine couche de levures dans le fonds.

== Bottling Day ==

 The second big day in your career as a homebrewer comes two weeks later, after fermentation is complete. Everything outlined below is thoroughly discussed in Chapter 11 - Priming and Bottling. To bottle your beer, you will need:

48 (12-oz) bottles bottle brush (kitchen or household cleaning variety is OK) bottle capper (from homebrew shop) bottle caps (from homebrew shop) bottling bucket (basically another fermentor bucket with a spigot and bottle filler attached) racking cane/siphon/bottle filler (from homebrew shop) Sugar (4-5 oz by weight)

'''Prepare your bottles'''

A typical 5-gallon batch requires two cases (48) of 12-oz bottles for bottling. Thoroughly clean and sanitize the bottles before use. If you are using old bottles, check them inside for dirt or mold deposits. They may need to be scrubbed with a bottle brush to get them really clean. Always clean first, then sanitize.

'''Prepare your bottle caps'''

Bottle caps must be sanitized before use, and the best way is to soak them in sanitizing solution. Some brewers use flip-top (Groelsch style) bottles. The ceramic part of the flip tops can be sanitized along with the bottles. The rubber seals can be sanitized like the bottle caps.

'''Prepare your priming sugar'''

We add a priming solution just before bottling to provide carbonation to the beer in the bottle. Boil 3/4 cup (4-5 oz by weight) of corn sugar or 2/3 cup (3.8-4.8 oz by weight) of cane sugar in two cups of water. Cover the pan and allow it to cool.

 

'''Combine beer and priming sugar'''

The best method for preparing the beer and priming sugar solution is to use a separate container the same size as your fermentor as a "bottling bucket." Clean and sanitize it and pour the priming solution into it. Next, siphon the beer from the fermentor into the bottling bucket. Don't simply pour the beer into the bucket, and don't let the beer splash as you siphon it in. Instead, put the end of the siphon under the surface of the beer as it fills. The swirling motion of the beer as it enters the bucket will be sufficient to evenly mix the priming solution into the beer without aeration.

If you don't have a bottling bucket, you can gently pour the priming solution into the fermentor and gently stir it. Allow the sediment in the fermentor to settle for 15-30 minutes before proceeding. You can fill the bottles using the bottle filler attachment on your siphon.

 

'''Bottle'''

Carefully fill the bottles with the primed beer, place a sanitized bottle cap on each bottle, and crimp it using the bottle capper. At this stage it is helpful to have a friend operate the capper while you fill the bottles.

 

 

 

'''Store the bottles'''

Place the capped bottles out of the light in a warm (room temperature) environment (65-75 °F [18-24 °C]). The bottles will take about two weeks to carbonate. The bottles will have a thin layer of yeast on the bottom.

 

 

''''''Le jour de la dégustation.''''''

[[Image:1_1_4_Serving_day1.jpg]]

Enfin, vous pouvez déguster les fruits de vos efforts. Cela a duré environ un mois, et vous êtes prêt à ouvrir votre première bouteille afin de voir quel merveilleuse bière vous avez créé. Au cours des deux dernières semaines, les levures encore en suspension dans la bière ont consommé le sucre d'amorçage, créant juste assez de CO2 pour carbonater la bière à la perfection.

Vous n'avez peut être pas su attendre si longtemps et avez déjà ouvert une bouteille. Vous avez sans doute remarqué que la bière n'était pas complètement carbonatée ou bien en donnait l'apparence, mais sans l'endurance. La bière avait probablement un goût "vert", signe qu'elle était jeune. Les deux semaines de garde renforcent non seulement la carbonatation, mais permettent également d'harmoniser les saveurs.

'''1. Refroidir sa bière.''' La bière n'a pas besoin d'être stockée au frais. Elle se conserve environ 6 mois, cela dépendant du niveau d'exposition à l'oxygène lors de la dernière étape de fermentation et de l'embouteillage. Mais vous voudrez probablement la rafraîchir avant de la servir. La température optimale de service dépend du style, variant de 40 à 55°F [4-12°C]. En général, plus la bière est sombre, plus elle sera servie chambrée.

'''2. Verser la bière.''' Pour verser la bière sans avoir les levures dans le verre, inclinez doucement la bouteille pour ne pas remuer la couche de levure au fond de la bouteille. Avec la pratique, vous serez capable de vider la bouteille en ne laissant qu'un quart de pouce ''[7mm, ndt]'', sans verser les levures dans le verre.

'''3. Savourer les flaveurs.''' Finalement, prenez une bonne gorgée et savourez la bière que vous avez créé. Ne vous pressez pas -il en reste suffisamment (47 bouteilles, en fait). Prenez le temps d'évaluer les flaveurs, la qualité de l'amertume, sa douceur et son niveau de carbonatation. Ces observations sont les premières étapes pour apprécier une bière et créer vos propres recettes.

== Serving Day ==

 At last, you get to sample the fruit of your efforts. It's been about a month, and you are ready to open your first bottle and see what kind of wonderful beer you have created. During the past two weeks, the yeast still swimming around in the beer have consumed the priming sugar, creating just enough carbon dioxide to carbonate your beer perfectly.

OK, so maybe you couldn't wait this long and you already opened a bottle. You may have noticed the beer wasn't fully carbonated or that it seemed carbonated but the bubbles had no staying power. You may have also noticed a "green" flavor. That flavor is the sign of a young beer. The two-week "conditioning" period not only adds carbonation but also gives the beer flavors time to meld and balance out.

'''Chill your beer'''

The bottled beer does not need to be stored cold. It will keep for approximately six months, depending on how well you managed to avoid exposure to oxygen during the last stage of fermentation and the bottling process. You will probably want to chill it before serving, however. The optimal temperature for serving beer depends on the style, varying from 40-55°F (4-12°C). In general, the darker the beer, the warmer you serve it.

'''Pouring your beer'''

To pour the beer without getting yeast in your glass, tip the bottle slowly to avoid disturbing the yeast layer on the bottom of the bottle. With practice, you will be able to pour everything but the last quarter inch of beer without getting any yeast in your glass.

'''Savor the flavor'''

Finally, take a deep draught and savor the flavor of the beer you have created. Don't rush it - there's plenty more (47 bottles, in fact). Take time to evaluate the flavor, its bitterness qualities, its sweetness, the level of carbonation. These observations are your first steps to beer appreciation and designing your own recipes.

How to brew/Section 1/Chap 1 : Cours de brassage accéléré

2009-02-16T10:19:50Z

Chrodegang : /* Bottling Day */

== What Do I Do? ==

If you are like me, you are probably standing in the kitchen, wanting to get started, your beer kit and equipment on the counter, wondering how long this will take and what to do first. Frankly, the first thing you should do is read all of Section I - Brewing Your First Beer With Extract. This book is going to teach you How To Brew, from the fundamentals to the advanced methods; you won't be confused by conflicting instructions on a beer kit, and you will have an outstanding first batch.

But if you are like me, you probably want to do this right now while you have some time. (It's going to take about 3 hours, depending.) So, in this first chapter, I will walk you through the steps necessary to get your first batch bubbling in the fermentor, and give you an overview of what you will do to ferment and bottle your beer.

The instructions in this chapter may not explain why you are doing each step or even what you are doing. To understand the Whats and Whys of brewing, you will need to read the rest of this book. Each of the chapters in Section I discuss the brewing steps in detail, giving you the purpose behind each step. You will know what you are doing, rather than doing it that way because "that's what it said..." You will know how long to boil the wort, how to really use hops, why to bother cooling the wort, why to bother re-hydrating the yeast, why to wait two weeks before bottling... Get the picture?

But, if you can't wait, this chapter should see you through. Beer production can be broken down into 3 main events: Brew Day, Fermentation, and Bottling Day. If you have questions about terminology or equipment, be sure to review the Glossary and Required Equipment sections via the links at the top of the page.

 

== Brew Day ==

 Equipment Needed Let's review the minimum equipment you will need for this first batch:

a 20 qt. brew pot (large canning pot) large stirring spoon (non-wood) ordinary table spoon measuring cup (preferably Pyrex glass) glass jar (at least 12 oz) fermentor (food-grade plastic bucket or glass carboy) airlock (get from homebrew shop) sanitizer (chlorine bleach or other) thermometer (optional)

 

Recipe Cincinnati Pale Ale Ingredients for a 5 gallon batch

3-4 lb. Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped 2 lb. Amber dry malt extract 12 AAU of bittering hops (any variety) For example, 1 oz. of 12% AA Nugget, or 1.5 oz. of 8% AA Perle 5 AAU of finishing hops (Cascade or other) For example, 1 oz. of 5% Cascade or 1.25 oz. of 4% Liberty 2 packets of dried ale yeast 

 

 Preparation (45 Minutes) 

'''Assemble ingredients.'''

Gather together the ingredients for the brew. You may have purchased a brewing kit at the homebrew shop and it will contain the ingredients needed to brew a particular style of beer. A kit usually consists of malt extract, yeast, and hops. The extract may already be "hopped" and the kit may not include any hops.

If you don't have a kit, then head to a homebrew supply store and buy the ingredients outlined in the recipe here. You will notice that the recipe calls for various quantities of hops measured in AAUs. AAU stands for alpha-acid units. Briefly, an AAU is a unit obtained by multiplying the alpha-acid rating of the hop (a percentage value) by the weight (ounces) that you intend to use. For example, 2 oz of a 6% alpha-acid hop equals 12 AAUs. Every package of hops you buy will list the hop's alpha-acid rating. To figure out how much of a hop you will need for this recipe, just divide the AAU target by the alpha-acid percentage on your hops. For example, 12 AAUs divided by 12 (Nugget hop's alpha-acid rating) equals 1 oz; 12 AAUs divided by 8 (Perle hop's alpha rating) equals 1 1/2 oz. (See Chapter 5 - Hops, for more info.)

 

'''Boil water.'''

You will need at least a gallon of sterile water for a variety of small tasks. Start by boiling about 1 gallon of water for 10 minutes and let it cool, covered, to room temperature.

Table 1 - Cleaning and Sanitizing Checklist Brewpot __ Clean Stirring Spoon __ Clean Tablespoon __ Clean __ Sanitize Measuring Cup __ Clean __ Sanitize Yeast Starter Jar __ Clean __ Sanitize Fermentor and Lid __ Clean __ Sanitize Airlock __ Clean __ Sanitize Thermometer __ Clean __ Sanitize 

 '''Clean and sanitize.'''

It may seem strange to the first-time brewer, but probably the most important thing in brewing is good cleaning and sanitization. Clean all equipment that will be used during the brew with a mild, unscented dish detergent, making sure to rinse well. Some equipment will need to be sanitized for use after the boiling stage. You can easily make a simple sanitizing solution by filling the fermentor bucket with 5 gallons of water and adding 5 tablespoons of chlorine bleach (a concentration equivalent to 1 TBS/gallon, or 4 ml/L). Soak all items that need to be sanitized in this bucket for 20 minutes. After soaking, dump the sanitizing solution and pour in some of the pre-boiled water for a quick rinse to remove any excess sanitizer. Place the small spoon and the thermometer in the yeast starter jar and cover it with plastic wrap. Cover the fermentor with the lid to keep it clean. (See Chapter 2- Preparations, for more info,)

Making Wort- (1 1/2 Hours) Now we begin the fun part of the work, creating the wort. Wort is what brewers call the sweet, amber liquid extracted from malted barley that the yeast will later ferment into beer.

 

'''Boil the brew water.'''

In the brewpot, bring 2 gallons of water to a boil. Pour this water into the fermentor and leave it to cool. Now bring 3 gallons of water to boil in the brewpot. You will be boiling all of the extract in just 3 gallons and adding this concentrated wort to the water already in the fermentor to make the total 5 gallons. (See Chapter - Water for Extract Brewing, for more info.)

Note: If your beer kit includes some crushed specialty grain, you will need to steep that first before adding the extract. (See Chapter 13 - Steeping Specialty Grain, for more info.)

 

'''Rehydrate the dried yeast.'''

Although many people skip this step with fair results, re-hydrating it assures the best results. While you are waiting for the brew water to boil, rehydrate two packets of dried ale yeast. Put 1 cup of warm (95-105°F, 35-40°C), preboiled water into your sanitized jar and stir in the yeast. Cover with plastic wrap and wait 15 minutes.

 

Next, "proof" the yeast. Start by adding one teaspoon of malt extract or table sugar to a small amount of water (1/4 cup, for example) and boil it to sanitize. (A microwave oven is good for this step.) Allow the sugar solution to cool and then add it to the yeast jar. Cover and place in a warm area out of direct sunlight. Check after 30 minutes, it should be exhibiting some signs of activity - some foaming and/or churning. If it just seems to sit on the bottom of the jar, then it is probably dead. Repeat the rehydration procedure with more yeast. (See Chapter 6 - Yeast, for more info.)

 

'''Add malt extract.'''

When the water in the brewpot is boiling, turn off the stove and stir in the malt extract. Be sure the extract is completely dissolved (if your malt extract is the dry variety, make sure there are no clumps; if the extract is syrup, make sure that none is stuck to the bottom of the pot). Next, turn the heat back on and resume the boil. Stir the wort regularly during the boil to be sure that it doesn't scorch.

'''Add hops.'''

If you are using unhopped extract, add the first (bittering) hop addition and begin timing the hour-long boil.(See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.)

 

'''Watch for boilovers.'''

As the wort boils, foam will form on the surface. This foam will persist until the wort goes through the "hot break" stage . The wort will easily boil over during this foaming stage, so stay close by and stir frequently . Blow on it and turn the heat down if it begins to boil over. Put a few copper pennies into the pot to help prevent boilovers.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling for more info.)

'''Add finishing hops (optional).'''

If you are using unhopped malt extract or want to add more character to hopped extract, add finishing hops during the last 15 minutes of the hour-long boil. (See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.)

'''Shut down the boil.'''

The boil time for extract beers depends on two things: waiting for the "hot break" (See Step 8) and boiling for hop additions. In a nutshell, if you are using hopped extract without any added hops then you only need to boil through the hot break stage, about 15 minutes. With some extracts, the hot break will be very weak, and you may have little foam to begin with. If you are using hopped extract but adding flavoring or aroma hops, then you will probably want to boil for 30 minutes. If you are using unhopped extract, then you will need to add hops for bittering and should boil for an hour. (See Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits, Chapter 5 - Hops, and Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.)

 

'''Cool the wort.'''

After the boil, the wort must be cooled to yeast pitching temperature (65-90 °F [18-32 °C]) as quickly as possible. To do this, immerse the pot in a cold water bath. A sink, bathtub, or a handy snowbank all work well. Be sure to keep the lid on the pot while cooling to prevent any cooling water or other potential contaminants from getting in.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.)

 

== Fermentation ==

The science of fermentation is discussed in Chapter 8 - Fermentation. Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Batch, walks you through the application of that science, so that from 10 ft. away, you will be able to perspicaciously inform curious onlookers that the beer is in the Adaptive, Attenuative, or Conditioning phase of activity.

'''Pitch the yeast.'''

Pour the rehydrated yeast solution into the fermentation bucket.

'''Add cooled wort.'''

Pour the cooled wort into the fermentation bucket "aggressively," so that it splashes and churns in the bucket. This action adds the oxygen yeast need for growth. This is the only time during the brewing process that you want the beer to be aerated or exposed to oxygen. All other transfers should be done "quietly," with a sanitized siphon and very little disturbance in the flow and minimal contact with the air.If you had added hops during the boil, you can remove them during this step by pouring the wort into the fermentor through a strainer. It is not necessary to remove the hops, however.

 

How to Siphon When racking or bottling , you cannot start a siphon by sucking on it or you will contaminate and sour the batch with bacteria from your mouth.

All parts of the siphon (racking cane, tubing, and cutoff valve or bottle filler) need to be sanitized, especially the inside. After sanitizing, leave the siphon full of sanitizer and carefully place the racking cane in your beer. Release the clamp/valve or your clean-and-sanitized thumb and allow the sanitizer to drain into a jar. Make sure the outlet is lower than the fermenter, or you will drain the sanitizer into your beer.

As the sanitizer drains, it will draw the beer into the siphon and you can stop and transfer the outlet to your bottling bucket or bottles. Thus you can siphon without risk of contamination. 

 '''Store the fermentor.'''

Put the lid tightly on the fermentor and carry it to a secure location where it will be undisturbed for two weeks. Choose a location that has a stable temperature of 65-70 °F (18-21 °C). A warmer temperature of 75 °F (24 °C) is okay, but above 80 °F (26 °C) the flavor of the beer will be affected. As soon as you have finished moving it, insert the airlock.

 

'''Leave it alone!'''

After about 24 hours, the airlock will be bubbling steadily, the exciting evidence of fermentation. The fermentation will proceed like this for two to four days, depending on the conditions of your fermentation. The activity will decrease as most of the malt sugars are consumed by the yeast, though the yeast will continue to ferment the beer long after the bubbling diminishes. Leave the beer in the fermentor for a total of two weeks.

'''Clean Up.'''

Now is the time to wash out your brewpot and other equipment. Only use mild unscented detergents, or the cleaners recommended in Chapter 2, and rinse well.

 

== '''L'embouteillage.''' ==

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day1.jpg]]

Le deuxième grand jour dans votre vie de brasseur arrive deux semaines plus tard, après la fin de la fermentation. Vous retrouverez les données esquissées ci-dessous dans le chapitre 11 - Amorçage et embouteillage. Pour ce faire, vous devez avoir:

-48 (12oz [33cl.]) bouteilles
-Un écouvillon (voire une brosse de cuisine ou de ménage)
-Une capsuleuse (en vente en magasin spécialisé)
-Des capsules (en vente en magasin spécialisé)
-Un seau (fondamentalement, un seau équipé d'un robinet et d'un remplisseur de bouteille)
-Une canne de transvasement/siphon/remplisseur de bouteilles
-Du sucre (4-5oz [113-142gr] par volume, ''soit 5.9-7.5gr/litres [ndt]'')

'''1. Préparez vos bouteilles.''' Un brassin typique de 5 gallons [18.9 litres] requière deux caisses (48) de bouteilles de 12oz [33cl.] pour l'embouteillage. Il faut nettoyer et désinfecter consciencieusement les bouteilles avant usage. Si vous utilisez de vieilles bouteilles, vérifiez qu'il n'y ait pas de saletés ou de moisissures à l'intérieur. Elles doivent être brossées avec un écouvillon pour qu'elles soient réellement propre. On nettoie d'abord pour désinfecter ensuite.

'''2. Préparez vos capsules.''' Les capsules doivent être désinfectées avant usage, la meilleur manière étant de les plonger dans un liquide désinfectant. Certains brasseurs utilisent des bouteilles à couronnes (style Groelsch). La partie en céramique peut être désinfectée avec les bouteilles. Les joints en caoutchouc peuvent être désinfectés comme les capsules de bouteille.

'''3. Préparez votre sucre d'amorçage.''' Nous ajoutons une solution d'amorçage juste avant la mise en bouteille pour permettre à la bière de carbonater en bouteille. Faites bouillir 3/4 de tasse (4-5oz [113-142gr] par volume) de sucre blanc ou 2/3 de tasse (3.8-4.8oz [107-136gr] par volume) de sucre de canne dans deux tasses d'eau. Couvrez la casserole et laissez refroidir.

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day2.jpg]]

'''4. Mélangez la bière et le sucre d'amorçage.''' La meilleur méthode est d'utiliser un récipient séparé, de la même contenance que votre fermenteur, comme "seau d'embouteillage". Nettoyez le, désinfectez le et versez le sirop au fond. Ensuite, siphonnez la bière du fermenteur vers le seau. Il faut éviter de verser simplement dans le fût, ou d'éclabousser en siphonnant. Pour cela, placez le bout du siphon sous la surface de la bière pour le remplir. Le mouvement tourbillonnant de la bière à son entrée dans le seau sera suffisant pour mélanger uniformément le sirop et la bière, sans l'aérer.

Si vous n'avez pas de seau d'embouteillage, vous pouvez verser doucement le sirop dans le fermenteur et remuer lentement. Laissez reposer 15-30 minutes pour que les sédiments retombent. Il ne reste plus qu'à fixer un remplisseur à votre siphon pour embouteiller.

[[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day3.jpg]] [[Image:1_1_3_Bottling_day4.jpg]]

'''5. Les bouteilles.''' Remplissez avec précaution les bouteilles, placez une capsule désinfectée sur chacune d'elles avant de verrouiller le tout avec une capsuleuse.

'''6. Entreposez les bouteilles.''' Placez les bouteilles à l'abri de la lumière et à température ambiante (65-75°F [18-24°C]). La carbonatation va prendre environ deux semaines. Les bouteilles auront une fine couche de levures dans le fonds.

== Bottling Day ==

 The second big day in your career as a homebrewer comes two weeks later, after fermentation is complete. Everything outlined below is thoroughly discussed in Chapter 11 - Priming and Bottling. To bottle your beer, you will need:

48 (12-oz) bottles bottle brush (kitchen or household cleaning variety is OK) bottle capper (from homebrew shop) bottle caps (from homebrew shop) bottling bucket (basically another fermentor bucket with a spigot and bottle filler attached) racking cane/siphon/bottle filler (from homebrew shop) Sugar (4-5 oz by weight)

'''Prepare your bottles'''

A typical 5-gallon batch requires two cases (48) of 12-oz bottles for bottling. Thoroughly clean and sanitize the bottles before use. If you are using old bottles, check them inside for dirt or mold deposits. They may need to be scrubbed with a bottle brush to get them really clean. Always clean first, then sanitize.

'''Prepare your bottle caps'''

Bottle caps must be sanitized before use, and the best way is to soak them in sanitizing solution. Some brewers use flip-top (Groelsch style) bottles. The ceramic part of the flip tops can be sanitized along with the bottles. The rubber seals can be sanitized like the bottle caps.

'''Prepare your priming sugar'''

We add a priming solution just before bottling to provide carbonation to the beer in the bottle. Boil 3/4 cup (4-5 oz by weight) of corn sugar or 2/3 cup (3.8-4.8 oz by weight) of cane sugar in two cups of water. Cover the pan and allow it to cool.

 

'''Combine beer and priming sugar'''

The best method for preparing the beer and priming sugar solution is to use a separate container the same size as your fermentor as a "bottling bucket." Clean and sanitize it and pour the priming solution into it. Next, siphon the beer from the fermentor into the bottling bucket. Don't simply pour the beer into the bucket, and don't let the beer splash as you siphon it in. Instead, put the end of the siphon under the surface of the beer as it fills. The swirling motion of the beer as it enters the bucket will be sufficient to evenly mix the priming solution into the beer without aeration.

If you don't have a bottling bucket, you can gently pour the priming solution into the fermentor and gently stir it. Allow the sediment in the fermentor to settle for 15-30 minutes before proceeding. You can fill the bottles using the bottle filler attachment on your siphon.

 

'''Bottle'''

Carefully fill the bottles with the primed beer, place a sanitized bottle cap on each bottle, and crimp it using the bottle capper. At this stage it is helpful to have a friend operate the capper while you fill the bottles.

 

 

 

'''Store the bottles'''

Place the capped bottles out of the light in a warm (room temperature) environment (65-75 °F [18-24 °C]). The bottles will take about two weeks to carbonate. The bottles will have a thin layer of yeast on the bottom.

 

 

== Serving Day ==

 At last, you get to sample the fruit of your efforts. It's been about a month, and you are ready to open your first bottle and see what kind of wonderful beer you have created. During the past two weeks, the yeast still swimming around in the beer have consumed the priming sugar, creating just enough carbon dioxide to carbonate your beer perfectly.

OK, so maybe you couldn't wait this long and you already opened a bottle. You may have noticed the beer wasn't fully carbonated or that it seemed carbonated but the bubbles had no staying power. You may have also noticed a "green" flavor. That flavor is the sign of a young beer. The two-week "conditioning" period not only adds carbonation but also gives the beer flavors time to meld and balance out.

'''Chill your beer'''

The bottled beer does not need to be stored cold. It will keep for approximately six months, depending on how well you managed to avoid exposure to oxygen during the last stage of fermentation and the bottling process. You will probably want to chill it before serving, however. The optimal temperature for serving beer depends on the style, varying from 40-55°F (4-12°C). In general, the darker the beer, the warmer you serve it.

'''Pouring your beer'''

To pour the beer without getting yeast in your glass, tip the bottle slowly to avoid disturbing the yeast layer on the bottom of the bottle. With practice, you will be able to pour everything but the last quarter inch of beer without getting any yeast in your glass.

'''Savor the flavor'''

Finally, take a deep draught and savor the flavor of the beer you have created. Don't rush it - there's plenty more (47 bottles, in fact). Take time to evaluate the flavor, its bitterness qualities, its sweetness, the level of carbonation. These observations are your first steps to beer appreciation and designing your own recipes.