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|-<br />
| __TOC__<br />
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<br><br />
<br />
== What Do I Do? ==<br />
<br />
If you are like me, you are probably standing in the kitchen, wanting to get started, your beer kit and equipment on the counter, wondering how long this will take and what to do first. Frankly, the first thing you should do is read all of Section I - Brewing Your First Beer With Extract. This book is going to teach you How To Brew, from the fundamentals to the advanced methods; you won't be confused by conflicting instructions on a beer kit, and you will have an outstanding first batch. <br />
<br />
But if you are like me, you probably want to do this right now while you have some time. (It's going to take about 3 hours, depending.) So, in this first chapter, I will walk you through the steps necessary to get your first batch bubbling in the fermentor, and give you an overview of what you will do to ferment and bottle your beer. <br />
<br />
The instructions in this chapter may not explain why you are doing each step or even what you are doing. To understand the Whats and Whys of brewing, you will need to read the rest of this book. Each of the chapters in Section I discuss the brewing steps in detail, giving you the purpose behind each step. You will know what you are doing, rather than doing it that way because "that's what it said..." You will know how long to boil the wort, how to really use hops, why to bother cooling the wort, why to bother re-hydrating the yeast, why to wait two weeks before bottling... Get the picture? <br />
<br />
But, if you can't wait, this chapter should see you through. Beer production can be broken down into 3 main events: Brew Day, Fermentation, and Bottling Day. If you have questions about terminology or equipment, be sure to review the Glossary and Required Equipment sections via the links at the top of the page. <br />
<br />
&nbsp; <br />
<br />
== Brew Day ==<br />
<br />
<br>Equipment Needed<br>Let's review the minimum equipment you will need for this first batch: <br />
<br />
a 20 qt. brew pot (large canning pot) <br>large stirring spoon (non-wood) <br>ordinary table spoon <br>measuring cup (preferably Pyrex glass) <br>glass jar (at least 12 oz) <br>fermentor (food-grade plastic bucket or glass carboy) <br>airlock (get from homebrew shop) <br>sanitizer (chlorine bleach or other) <br>thermometer (optional) <br />
<br />
&nbsp; <br />
<br />
Recipe <br>Cincinnati Pale Ale<br>Ingredients for a 5 gallon batch <br />
<br />
3-4 lb. Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped <br>2 lb. Amber dry malt extract <br>12 AAU of bittering hops (any variety) For example, 1 oz. of 12% AA Nugget, or 1.5 oz. of 8% AA Perle <br>5 AAU of finishing hops (Cascade or other) For example, 1 oz. of 5% Cascade or 1.25 oz. of 4% Liberty <br>2 packets of dried ale yeast <br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br>Preparation (45 Minutes)<br><br />
<br />
=== Assemble ingredients. ===<br />
<br />
Gather together the ingredients for the brew. You may have purchased a brewing kit at the homebrew shop and it will contain the ingredients needed to brew a particular style of beer. A kit usually consists of malt extract, yeast, and hops. The extract may already be "hopped" and the kit may not include any hops. <br />
<br />
If you don't have a kit, then head to a homebrew supply store and buy the ingredients outlined in the recipe here. You will notice that the recipe calls for various quantities of hops measured in AAUs. AAU stands for alpha-acid units. Briefly, an AAU is a unit obtained by multiplying the alpha-acid rating of the hop (a percentage value) by the weight (ounces) that you intend to use. For example, 2 oz of a 6% alpha-acid hop equals 12 AAUs. Every package of hops you buy will list the hop's alpha-acid rating. To figure out how much of a hop you will need for this recipe, just divide the AAU target by the alpha-acid percentage on your hops. For example, 12 AAUs divided by 12 (Nugget hop's alpha-acid rating) equals 1 oz; 12 AAUs divided by 8 (Perle hop's alpha rating) equals 1 1/2 oz. (See Chapter 5 - Hops, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Boil water. ===<br />
<br />
You will need at least a gallon of sterile water for a variety of small tasks. Start by boiling about 1 gallon of water for 10 minutes and let it cool, covered, to room temperature. <br />
<br />
Table 1 - Cleaning and Sanitizing Checklist Brewpot <br>__ Clean <br><br>Stirring Spoon <br>__ Clean <br><br>Tablespoon <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Measuring Cup <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Yeast Starter Jar <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Fermentor and Lid <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Airlock <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Thermometer <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br />
<br />
=== <br>Clean and sanitize. ===<br />
<br />
It may seem strange to the first-time brewer, but probably the most important thing in brewing is good cleaning and sanitization. Clean all equipment that will be used during the brew with a mild, unscented dish detergent, making sure to rinse well. Some equipment will need to be sanitized for use after the boiling stage. You can easily make a simple sanitizing solution by filling the fermentor bucket with 5 gallons of water and adding 5 tablespoons of chlorine bleach (a concentration equivalent to 1 TBS/gallon, or 4 ml/L). Soak all items that need to be sanitized in this bucket for 20 minutes. After soaking, dump the sanitizing solution and pour in some of the pre-boiled water for a quick rinse to remove any excess sanitizer. Place the small spoon and the thermometer in the yeast starter jar and cover it with plastic wrap. Cover the fermentor with the lid to keep it clean. (See Chapter 2- Preparations, for more info,) <br />
<br />
Making Wort- (1 1/2 Hours)<br>Now we begin the fun part of the work, creating the wort. Wort is what brewers call the sweet, amber liquid extracted from malted barley that the yeast will later ferment into beer. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Boil the brew water. ===<br />
<br />
In the brewpot, bring 2 gallons of water to a boil. Pour this water into the fermentor and leave it to cool. Now bring 3 gallons of water to boil in the brewpot. You will be boiling all of the extract in just 3 gallons and adding this concentrated wort to the water already in the fermentor to make the total 5 gallons. (See Chapter - Water for Extract Brewing, for more info.) <br />
<br />
Note: If your beer kit includes some crushed specialty grain, you will need to steep that first before adding the extract. (See Chapter 13 - Steeping Specialty Grain, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Rehydrate the dried yeast. ===<br />
<br />
Although many people skip this step with fair results, re-hydrating it assures the best results. While you are waiting for the brew water to boil, rehydrate two packets of dried ale yeast. Put 1 cup of warm (95-105°F, 35-40°C), preboiled water into your sanitized jar and stir in the yeast. Cover with plastic wrap and wait 15 minutes. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Next, "proof" the yeast. Start by adding one teaspoon of malt extract or table sugar to a small amount of water (1/4 cup, for example) and boil it to sanitize. (A microwave oven is good for this step.) Allow the sugar solution to cool and then add it to the yeast jar. Cover and place in a warm area out of direct sunlight. Check after 30 minutes, it should be exhibiting some signs of activity - some foaming and/or churning. If it just seems to sit on the bottom of the jar, then it is probably dead. Repeat the rehydration procedure with more yeast. (See Chapter 6 - Yeast, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Add malt extract. ===<br />
<br />
When the water in the brewpot is boiling, turn off the stove and stir in the malt extract. Be sure the extract is completely dissolved (if your malt extract is the dry variety, make sure there are no clumps; if the extract is syrup, make sure that none is stuck to the bottom of the pot). Next, turn the heat back on and resume the boil. Stir the wort regularly during the boil to be sure that it doesn't scorch. <br />
<br />
=== Add hops. ===<br />
<br />
If you are using unhopped extract, add the first (bittering) hop addition and begin timing the hour-long boil.(See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Watch for boilovers. ===<br />
<br />
As the wort boils, foam will form on the surface. This foam will persist until the wort goes through the "hot break" stage . The wort will easily boil over during this foaming stage, so stay close by and stir frequently . Blow on it and turn the heat down if it begins to boil over. Put a few copper pennies into the pot to help prevent boilovers.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling for more info.) <br />
<br />
=== Add finishing hops (optional). ===<br />
<br />
If you are using unhopped malt extract or want to add more character to hopped extract, add finishing hops during the last 15 minutes of the hour-long boil. (See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.) <br />
<br />
=== Shut down the boil. ===<br />
<br />
The boil time for extract beers depends on two things: waiting for the "hot break" (See Step 8) and boiling for hop additions. In a nutshell, if you are using hopped extract without any added hops then you only need to boil through the hot break stage, about 15 minutes. With some extracts, the hot break will be very weak, and you may have little foam to begin with. If you are using hopped extract but adding flavoring or aroma hops, then you will probably want to boil for 30 minutes. If you are using unhopped extract, then you will need to add hops for bittering and should boil for an hour. (See Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits, Chapter 5 - Hops, and Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Cool the wort. ===<br />
<br />
After the boil, the wort must be cooled to yeast pitching temperature (65-90 °F [18-32 °C]) as quickly as possible. To do this, immerse the pot in a cold water bath. A sink, bathtub, or a handy snowbank all work well. Be sure to keep the lid on the pot while cooling to prevent any cooling water or other potential contaminants from getting in.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.) <br />
<br />
&nbsp; <br />
<br />
== Fermentation<br> ==<br />
<br />
The science of fermentation is discussed in Chapter 8 - Fermentation. Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Batch, walks you through the application of that science, so that from 10 ft. away, you will be able to perspicaciously inform curious onlookers that the beer is in the Adaptive, Attenuative, or Conditioning phase of activity. <br />
<br />
=== Pitch the yeast. ===<br />
<br />
Pour the rehydrated yeast solution into the fermentation bucket. <br />
<br />
=== Add cooled wort. ===<br />
<br />
Pour the cooled wort into the fermentation bucket "aggressively," so that it splashes and churns in the bucket. This action adds the oxygen yeast need for growth. This is the only time during the brewing process that you want the beer to be aerated or exposed to oxygen. All other transfers should be done "quietly," with a sanitized siphon and very little disturbance in the flow and minimal contact with the air.If you had added hops during the boil, you can remove them during this step by pouring the wort into the fermentor through a strainer. It is not necessary to remove the hops, however. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
How to Siphon<br>When racking or bottling , you cannot start a siphon by sucking on it or you will contaminate and sour the batch with bacteria from your mouth. <br />
<br />
All parts of the siphon (racking cane, tubing, and cutoff valve or bottle filler) need to be sanitized, especially the inside. After sanitizing, leave the siphon full of sanitizer and carefully place the racking cane in your beer. Release the clamp/valve or your clean-and-sanitized thumb and allow the sanitizer to drain into a jar. Make sure the outlet is lower than the fermenter, or you will drain the sanitizer into your beer. <br />
<br />
As the sanitizer drains, it will draw the beer into the siphon and you can stop and transfer the outlet to your bottling bucket or bottles. Thus you can siphon without risk of contamination.<br><br />
<br />
=== <br>Store the fermentor. ===<br />
<br />
Put the lid tightly on the fermentor and carry it to a secure location where it will be undisturbed for two weeks. Choose a location that has a stable temperature of 65-70 °F (18-21 °C). A warmer temperature of 75 °F (24 °C) is okay, but above 80 °F (26 °C) the flavor of the beer will be affected. As soon as you have finished moving it, insert the airlock. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Leave it alone! ===<br />
<br />
After about 24 hours, the airlock will be bubbling steadily, the exciting evidence of fermentation. The fermentation will proceed like this for two to four days, depending on the conditions of your fermentation. The activity will decrease as most of the malt sugars are consumed by the yeast, though the yeast will continue to ferment the beer long after the bubbling diminishes. Leave the beer in the fermentor for a total of two weeks. <br />
<br />
=== Clean Up. ===<br />
<br />
Now is the time to wash out your brewpot and other equipment. Only use mild unscented detergents, or the cleaners recommended in Chapter 2, and rinse well. <br />
<br />
&nbsp; <br />
<br />
== Bottling Day ==<br />
<br />
<br>The second big day in your career as a homebrewer comes two weeks later, after fermentation is complete. Everything outlined below is thoroughly discussed in Chapter 11 - Priming and Bottling. To bottle your beer, you will need: <br />
<br />
48 (12-oz) bottles <br>bottle brush (kitchen or household cleaning variety is OK) <br>bottle capper (from homebrew shop) <br>bottle caps (from homebrew shop) <br>bottling bucket (basically another fermentor bucket with a spigot and bottle filler attached) <br>racking cane/siphon/bottle filler (from homebrew shop) <br>Sugar (4-5 oz by weight) <br />
<br />
=== Prepare your bottles ===<br />
<br />
A typical 5-gallon batch requires two cases (48) of 12-oz bottles for bottling. Thoroughly clean and sanitize the bottles before use. If you are using old bottles, check them inside for dirt or mold deposits. They may need to be scrubbed with a bottle brush to get them really clean. Always clean first, then sanitize. <br />
<br />
=== Prepare your bottle caps ===<br />
<br />
Bottle caps must be sanitized before use, and the best way is to soak them in sanitizing solution. Some brewers use flip-top (Groelsch style) bottles. The ceramic part of the flip tops can be sanitized along with the bottles. The rubber seals can be sanitized like the bottle caps. <br />
<br />
=== Prepare your priming sugar ===<br />
<br />
We add a priming solution just before bottling to provide carbonation to the beer in the bottle. Boil 3/4 cup (4-5 oz by weight) of corn sugar or 2/3 cup (3.8-4.8 oz by weight) of cane sugar in two cups of water. Cover the pan and allow it to cool. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Combine beer and priming sugar ===<br />
<br />
The best method for preparing the beer and priming sugar solution is to use a separate container the same size as your fermentor as a "bottling bucket." Clean and sanitize it and pour the priming solution into it. Next, siphon the beer from the fermentor into the bottling bucket. Don't simply pour the beer into the bucket, and don't let the beer splash as you siphon it in. Instead, put the end of the siphon under the surface of the beer as it fills. The swirling motion of the beer as it enters the bucket will be sufficient to evenly mix the priming solution into the beer without aeration. <br />
<br />
If you don't have a bottling bucket, you can gently pour the priming solution into the fermentor and gently stir it. Allow the sediment in the fermentor to settle for 15-30 minutes before proceeding. You can fill the bottles using the bottle filler attachment on your siphon. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Bottle ===<br />
<br />
Carefully fill the bottles with the primed beer, place a sanitized bottle cap on each bottle, and crimp it using the bottle capper. At this stage it is helpful to have a friend operate the capper while you fill the bottles. <br />
<br />
=== Store the bottles ===<br />
<br />
Place the capped bottles out of the light in a warm (room temperature) environment (65-75 °F [18-24 °C]). The bottles will take about two weeks to carbonate. The bottles will have a thin layer of yeast on the bottom. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Serving Day ==<br />
<br />
<br>At last, you get to sample the fruit of your efforts. It's been about a month, and you are ready to open your first bottle and see what kind of wonderful beer you have created. During the past two weeks, the yeast still swimming around in the beer have consumed the priming sugar, creating just enough carbon dioxide to carbonate your beer perfectly. <br />
<br />
OK, so maybe you couldn't wait this long and you already opened a bottle. You may have noticed the beer wasn't fully carbonated or that it seemed carbonated but the bubbles had no staying power. You may have also noticed a "green" flavor. That flavor is the sign of a young beer. The two-week "conditioning" period not only adds carbonation but also gives the beer flavors time to meld and balance out. <br />
<br />
=== Chill your beer ===<br />
<br />
The bottled beer does not need to be stored cold. It will keep for approximately six months, depending on how well you managed to avoid exposure to oxygen during the last stage of fermentation and the bottling process. You will probably want to chill it before serving, however. The optimal temperature for serving beer depends on the style, varying from 40-55°F (4-12°C). In general, the darker the beer, the warmer you serve it. <br />
<br />
=== Pouring your beer ===<br />
<br />
To pour the beer without getting yeast in your glass, tip the bottle slowly to avoid disturbing the yeast layer on the bottom of the bottle. With practice, you will be able to pour everything but the last quarter inch of beer without getting any yeast in your glass. <br />
<br />
=== Savor the flavor ===<br />
<br />
Finally, take a deep draught and savor the flavor of the beer you have created. Don't rush it - there's plenty more (47 bottles, in fact). Take time to evaluate the flavor, its bitterness qualities, its sweetness, the level of carbonation. These observations are your first steps to beer appreciation and designing your own recipes.</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew/Section_1/Chap_1_:_Cours_de_brassage_acc%C3%A9l%C3%A9r%C3%A9&diff=44How to brew/Section 1/Chap 1 : Cours de brassage accéléré2009-02-10T09:06:40Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div>{| align="right" | __TOC__ |}<br />
<br />
== What Do I Do? ==<br />
<br />
If you are like me, you are probably standing in the kitchen, wanting to get started, your beer kit and equipment on the counter, wondering how long this will take and what to do first. Frankly, the first thing you should do is read all of Section I - Brewing Your First Beer With Extract. This book is going to teach you How To Brew, from the fundamentals to the advanced methods; you won't be confused by conflicting instructions on a beer kit, and you will have an outstanding first batch. <br />
<br />
But if you are like me, you probably want to do this right now while you have some time. (It's going to take about 3 hours, depending.) So, in this first chapter, I will walk you through the steps necessary to get your first batch bubbling in the fermentor, and give you an overview of what you will do to ferment and bottle your beer. <br />
<br />
The instructions in this chapter may not explain why you are doing each step or even what you are doing. To understand the Whats and Whys of brewing, you will need to read the rest of this book. Each of the chapters in Section I discuss the brewing steps in detail, giving you the purpose behind each step. You will know what you are doing, rather than doing it that way because "that's what it said..." You will know how long to boil the wort, how to really use hops, why to bother cooling the wort, why to bother re-hydrating the yeast, why to wait two weeks before bottling... Get the picture? <br />
<br />
But, if you can't wait, this chapter should see you through. Beer production can be broken down into 3 main events: Brew Day, Fermentation, and Bottling Day. If you have questions about terminology or equipment, be sure to review the Glossary and Required Equipment sections via the links at the top of the page. <br />
<br />
&nbsp; <br />
<br />
== Brew Day ==<br />
<br />
<br>Equipment Needed<br>Let's review the minimum equipment you will need for this first batch: <br />
<br />
a 20 qt. brew pot (large canning pot) <br>large stirring spoon (non-wood) <br>ordinary table spoon <br>measuring cup (preferably Pyrex glass) <br>glass jar (at least 12 oz) <br>fermentor (food-grade plastic bucket or glass carboy) <br>airlock (get from homebrew shop) <br>sanitizer (chlorine bleach or other) <br>thermometer (optional) <br />
<br />
&nbsp; <br />
<br />
Recipe <br>Cincinnati Pale Ale<br>Ingredients for a 5 gallon batch <br />
<br />
3-4 lb. Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped <br>2 lb. Amber dry malt extract <br>12 AAU of bittering hops (any variety) For example, 1 oz. of 12% AA Nugget, or 1.5 oz. of 8% AA Perle <br>5 AAU of finishing hops (Cascade or other) For example, 1 oz. of 5% Cascade or 1.25 oz. of 4% Liberty <br>2 packets of dried ale yeast <br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br>Preparation (45 Minutes)<br><br />
<br />
=== Assemble ingredients. ===<br />
<br />
Gather together the ingredients for the brew. You may have purchased a brewing kit at the homebrew shop and it will contain the ingredients needed to brew a particular style of beer. A kit usually consists of malt extract, yeast, and hops. The extract may already be "hopped" and the kit may not include any hops. <br />
<br />
If you don't have a kit, then head to a homebrew supply store and buy the ingredients outlined in the recipe here. You will notice that the recipe calls for various quantities of hops measured in AAUs. AAU stands for alpha-acid units. Briefly, an AAU is a unit obtained by multiplying the alpha-acid rating of the hop (a percentage value) by the weight (ounces) that you intend to use. For example, 2 oz of a 6% alpha-acid hop equals 12 AAUs. Every package of hops you buy will list the hop's alpha-acid rating. To figure out how much of a hop you will need for this recipe, just divide the AAU target by the alpha-acid percentage on your hops. For example, 12 AAUs divided by 12 (Nugget hop's alpha-acid rating) equals 1 oz; 12 AAUs divided by 8 (Perle hop's alpha rating) equals 1 1/2 oz. (See Chapter 5 - Hops, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Boil water. ===<br />
<br />
You will need at least a gallon of sterile water for a variety of small tasks. Start by boiling about 1 gallon of water for 10 minutes and let it cool, covered, to room temperature. <br />
<br />
Table 1 - Cleaning and Sanitizing Checklist Brewpot <br>__ Clean <br><br>Stirring Spoon <br>__ Clean <br><br>Tablespoon <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Measuring Cup <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Yeast Starter Jar <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Fermentor and Lid <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Airlock <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Thermometer <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br />
<br />
=== <br>Clean and sanitize. ===<br />
<br />
It may seem strange to the first-time brewer, but probably the most important thing in brewing is good cleaning and sanitization. Clean all equipment that will be used during the brew with a mild, unscented dish detergent, making sure to rinse well. Some equipment will need to be sanitized for use after the boiling stage. You can easily make a simple sanitizing solution by filling the fermentor bucket with 5 gallons of water and adding 5 tablespoons of chlorine bleach (a concentration equivalent to 1 TBS/gallon, or 4 ml/L). Soak all items that need to be sanitized in this bucket for 20 minutes. After soaking, dump the sanitizing solution and pour in some of the pre-boiled water for a quick rinse to remove any excess sanitizer. Place the small spoon and the thermometer in the yeast starter jar and cover it with plastic wrap. Cover the fermentor with the lid to keep it clean. (See Chapter 2- Preparations, for more info,) <br />
<br />
Making Wort- (1 1/2 Hours)<br>Now we begin the fun part of the work, creating the wort. Wort is what brewers call the sweet, amber liquid extracted from malted barley that the yeast will later ferment into beer. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Boil the brew water. ===<br />
<br />
In the brewpot, bring 2 gallons of water to a boil. Pour this water into the fermentor and leave it to cool. Now bring 3 gallons of water to boil in the brewpot. You will be boiling all of the extract in just 3 gallons and adding this concentrated wort to the water already in the fermentor to make the total 5 gallons. (See Chapter - Water for Extract Brewing, for more info.) <br />
<br />
Note: If your beer kit includes some crushed specialty grain, you will need to steep that first before adding the extract. (See Chapter 13 - Steeping Specialty Grain, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Rehydrate the dried yeast. ===<br />
<br />
Although many people skip this step with fair results, re-hydrating it assures the best results. While you are waiting for the brew water to boil, rehydrate two packets of dried ale yeast. Put 1 cup of warm (95-105°F, 35-40°C), preboiled water into your sanitized jar and stir in the yeast. Cover with plastic wrap and wait 15 minutes. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Next, "proof" the yeast. Start by adding one teaspoon of malt extract or table sugar to a small amount of water (1/4 cup, for example) and boil it to sanitize. (A microwave oven is good for this step.) Allow the sugar solution to cool and then add it to the yeast jar. Cover and place in a warm area out of direct sunlight. Check after 30 minutes, it should be exhibiting some signs of activity - some foaming and/or churning. If it just seems to sit on the bottom of the jar, then it is probably dead. Repeat the rehydration procedure with more yeast. (See Chapter 6 - Yeast, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Add malt extract. ===<br />
<br />
When the water in the brewpot is boiling, turn off the stove and stir in the malt extract. Be sure the extract is completely dissolved (if your malt extract is the dry variety, make sure there are no clumps; if the extract is syrup, make sure that none is stuck to the bottom of the pot). Next, turn the heat back on and resume the boil. Stir the wort regularly during the boil to be sure that it doesn't scorch. <br />
<br />
=== Add hops. ===<br />
<br />
If you are using unhopped extract, add the first (bittering) hop addition and begin timing the hour-long boil.(See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Watch for boilovers. ===<br />
<br />
As the wort boils, foam will form on the surface. This foam will persist until the wort goes through the "hot break" stage . The wort will easily boil over during this foaming stage, so stay close by and stir frequently . Blow on it and turn the heat down if it begins to boil over. Put a few copper pennies into the pot to help prevent boilovers.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling for more info.) <br />
<br />
=== Add finishing hops (optional). ===<br />
<br />
If you are using unhopped malt extract or want to add more character to hopped extract, add finishing hops during the last 15 minutes of the hour-long boil. (See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.) <br />
<br />
=== Shut down the boil. ===<br />
<br />
The boil time for extract beers depends on two things: waiting for the "hot break" (See Step 8) and boiling for hop additions. In a nutshell, if you are using hopped extract without any added hops then you only need to boil through the hot break stage, about 15 minutes. With some extracts, the hot break will be very weak, and you may have little foam to begin with. If you are using hopped extract but adding flavoring or aroma hops, then you will probably want to boil for 30 minutes. If you are using unhopped extract, then you will need to add hops for bittering and should boil for an hour. (See Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits, Chapter 5 - Hops, and Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Cool the wort. ===<br />
<br />
After the boil, the wort must be cooled to yeast pitching temperature (65-90 °F [18-32 °C]) as quickly as possible. To do this, immerse the pot in a cold water bath. A sink, bathtub, or a handy snowbank all work well. Be sure to keep the lid on the pot while cooling to prevent any cooling water or other potential contaminants from getting in.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.) <br />
<br />
&nbsp; <br />
<br />
== Fermentation<br> ==<br />
<br />
The science of fermentation is discussed in Chapter 8 - Fermentation. Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Batch, walks you through the application of that science, so that from 10 ft. away, you will be able to perspicaciously inform curious onlookers that the beer is in the Adaptive, Attenuative, or Conditioning phase of activity. <br />
<br />
=== Pitch the yeast. ===<br />
<br />
Pour the rehydrated yeast solution into the fermentation bucket. <br />
<br />
=== Add cooled wort. ===<br />
<br />
Pour the cooled wort into the fermentation bucket "aggressively," so that it splashes and churns in the bucket. This action adds the oxygen yeast need for growth. This is the only time during the brewing process that you want the beer to be aerated or exposed to oxygen. All other transfers should be done "quietly," with a sanitized siphon and very little disturbance in the flow and minimal contact with the air.If you had added hops during the boil, you can remove them during this step by pouring the wort into the fermentor through a strainer. It is not necessary to remove the hops, however. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
How to Siphon<br>When racking or bottling , you cannot start a siphon by sucking on it or you will contaminate and sour the batch with bacteria from your mouth. <br />
<br />
All parts of the siphon (racking cane, tubing, and cutoff valve or bottle filler) need to be sanitized, especially the inside. After sanitizing, leave the siphon full of sanitizer and carefully place the racking cane in your beer. Release the clamp/valve or your clean-and-sanitized thumb and allow the sanitizer to drain into a jar. Make sure the outlet is lower than the fermenter, or you will drain the sanitizer into your beer. <br />
<br />
As the sanitizer drains, it will draw the beer into the siphon and you can stop and transfer the outlet to your bottling bucket or bottles. Thus you can siphon without risk of contamination.<br><br />
<br />
=== <br>Store the fermentor. ===<br />
<br />
Put the lid tightly on the fermentor and carry it to a secure location where it will be undisturbed for two weeks. Choose a location that has a stable temperature of 65-70 °F (18-21 °C). A warmer temperature of 75 °F (24 °C) is okay, but above 80 °F (26 °C) the flavor of the beer will be affected. As soon as you have finished moving it, insert the airlock. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Leave it alone! ===<br />
<br />
After about 24 hours, the airlock will be bubbling steadily, the exciting evidence of fermentation. The fermentation will proceed like this for two to four days, depending on the conditions of your fermentation. The activity will decrease as most of the malt sugars are consumed by the yeast, though the yeast will continue to ferment the beer long after the bubbling diminishes. Leave the beer in the fermentor for a total of two weeks. <br />
<br />
=== Clean Up. ===<br />
<br />
Now is the time to wash out your brewpot and other equipment. Only use mild unscented detergents, or the cleaners recommended in Chapter 2, and rinse well. <br />
<br />
&nbsp; <br />
<br />
== Bottling Day ==<br />
<br />
<br>The second big day in your career as a homebrewer comes two weeks later, after fermentation is complete. Everything outlined below is thoroughly discussed in Chapter 11 - Priming and Bottling. To bottle your beer, you will need: <br />
<br />
48 (12-oz) bottles <br>bottle brush (kitchen or household cleaning variety is OK) <br>bottle capper (from homebrew shop) <br>bottle caps (from homebrew shop) <br>bottling bucket (basically another fermentor bucket with a spigot and bottle filler attached) <br>racking cane/siphon/bottle filler (from homebrew shop) <br>Sugar (4-5 oz by weight) <br />
<br />
=== Prepare your bottles ===<br />
<br />
A typical 5-gallon batch requires two cases (48) of 12-oz bottles for bottling. Thoroughly clean and sanitize the bottles before use. If you are using old bottles, check them inside for dirt or mold deposits. They may need to be scrubbed with a bottle brush to get them really clean. Always clean first, then sanitize. <br />
<br />
=== Prepare your bottle caps ===<br />
<br />
Bottle caps must be sanitized before use, and the best way is to soak them in sanitizing solution. Some brewers use flip-top (Groelsch style) bottles. The ceramic part of the flip tops can be sanitized along with the bottles. The rubber seals can be sanitized like the bottle caps. <br />
<br />
=== Prepare your priming sugar ===<br />
<br />
We add a priming solution just before bottling to provide carbonation to the beer in the bottle. Boil 3/4 cup (4-5 oz by weight) of corn sugar or 2/3 cup (3.8-4.8 oz by weight) of cane sugar in two cups of water. Cover the pan and allow it to cool. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Combine beer and priming sugar ===<br />
<br />
The best method for preparing the beer and priming sugar solution is to use a separate container the same size as your fermentor as a "bottling bucket." Clean and sanitize it and pour the priming solution into it. Next, siphon the beer from the fermentor into the bottling bucket. Don't simply pour the beer into the bucket, and don't let the beer splash as you siphon it in. Instead, put the end of the siphon under the surface of the beer as it fills. The swirling motion of the beer as it enters the bucket will be sufficient to evenly mix the priming solution into the beer without aeration. <br />
<br />
If you don't have a bottling bucket, you can gently pour the priming solution into the fermentor and gently stir it. Allow the sediment in the fermentor to settle for 15-30 minutes before proceeding. You can fill the bottles using the bottle filler attachment on your siphon. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Bottle ===<br />
<br />
Carefully fill the bottles with the primed beer, place a sanitized bottle cap on each bottle, and crimp it using the bottle capper. At this stage it is helpful to have a friend operate the capper while you fill the bottles. <br />
<br />
=== Store the bottles ===<br />
<br />
Place the capped bottles out of the light in a warm (room temperature) environment (65-75 °F [18-24 °C]). The bottles will take about two weeks to carbonate. The bottles will have a thin layer of yeast on the bottom. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Serving Day ==<br />
<br />
<br>At last, you get to sample the fruit of your efforts. It's been about a month, and you are ready to open your first bottle and see what kind of wonderful beer you have created. During the past two weeks, the yeast still swimming around in the beer have consumed the priming sugar, creating just enough carbon dioxide to carbonate your beer perfectly. <br />
<br />
OK, so maybe you couldn't wait this long and you already opened a bottle. You may have noticed the beer wasn't fully carbonated or that it seemed carbonated but the bubbles had no staying power. You may have also noticed a "green" flavor. That flavor is the sign of a young beer. The two-week "conditioning" period not only adds carbonation but also gives the beer flavors time to meld and balance out. <br />
<br />
=== Chill your beer ===<br />
<br />
The bottled beer does not need to be stored cold. It will keep for approximately six months, depending on how well you managed to avoid exposure to oxygen during the last stage of fermentation and the bottling process. You will probably want to chill it before serving, however. The optimal temperature for serving beer depends on the style, varying from 40-55°F (4-12°C). In general, the darker the beer, the warmer you serve it. <br />
<br />
=== Pouring your beer ===<br />
<br />
To pour the beer without getting yeast in your glass, tip the bottle slowly to avoid disturbing the yeast layer on the bottom of the bottle. With practice, you will be able to pour everything but the last quarter inch of beer without getting any yeast in your glass. <br />
<br />
=== Savor the flavor ===<br />
<br />
Finally, take a deep draught and savor the flavor of the beer you have created. Don't rush it - there's plenty more (47 bottles, in fact). Take time to evaluate the flavor, its bitterness qualities, its sweetness, the level of carbonation. These observations are your first steps to beer appreciation and designing your own recipes.</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew/Introduction&diff=43How to brew/Introduction2009-02-09T22:05:03Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div>Il y a beaucoup de bons ouvrages déjà disponibles traitant du brassage amateur, alors pourquoi en écrire un de plus me demanderez vous&nbsp;? La réponse est&nbsp;: c'est une question d'objectif. Quand j'ai commencé à apprendre comment brasser ma propre bière il y a quelques années, j'ai lu tous les livres que je pouvais trouver; dont certains avaient été 15 ans auparavant. Il était évident pour moi que l'état de l'art avait quelque peu muri entre temps. Là où un ouvrage pouvait recommander l'utilisation de levure de boulangerie et recouvrir la bière en fermentation d'un torchon, un autre ouvrage insistait sur les levures de bière et peut être même un barboteur. Ainsi, il m'a semblé qu'un autre point de vue, soulignant les comment et pourquoi du processus de brassage, pourrait aider plus de nouveaux brasseurs à bien commencer. <br />
<br />
''There are many good books on homebrewing currently available, so why did I write one you ask? The answer is: a matter of perspective. When I began learning how to brew my own beer several years ago, I read every book I could find; books often published 15 years apart. It was evident to me that the state of the art had matured a bit. Where one book would recommend using baking yeast and covering the fermenting beer with a towel, a later book would insist on brewing yeast and perhaps an airlock. So, I felt that another point of view, laying out the hows and whys of the brewing processes, might help more new brewers get a better start.'' <br />
<br />
''Here is a synopsis of the brewing process:'' <br />
<br />
#''Malted barley is soaked in hot water to release the malt sugars.'' <br />
#''The malt sugar solution is boiled with Hops for seasoning.'' <br />
#''The solution is cooled and yeast is added to begin fermentation.'' <br />
#''The yeast ferments the sugars, releasing CO2 and ethyl alcohol.'' <br />
#''When the main fermentation is complete, the beer is bottled with a little bit of added sugar to provide the carbonation.''<br />
<br />
''Sounds fairly simple doesn't it? It is, but as you read this book you will realize the incredible amount of information that I glossed over with those five steps. The first step alone can fill an entire book, several in fact. But brewing is easy. And it's fun. Brewing is an art as well as a science. Some people may be put off by the technical side of things, but this is a science that you can taste. The science is what allows everyone to become the artist. Learning about the processes of beer making will let you better apply them as an artist. As my history teacher used to chide me, "It's only boring until you learn something about it. Knowledge makes things interesting."'' <br />
<br />
''As an engineer, I was intrigued with the process of beermaking. I wanted to know what each step was supposed to be doing so I could understand how to better accomplish them. For instance, adding the yeast to the beer wort: the emphasis was to get the yeast fermenting as soon as possible to prevent unwanted competing yeasts or microbes from getting a foothold. There are actually several factors that influence yeast propagation, not all of which were explained in any one book. This kind of editing was an effort by the authors to present the information that they felt was most important to overall success and enjoyment of the hobby. Each of us has a different perspective.'' <br />
<br />
''Fortunately for me, I discovered the Internet and the homebrewing discussion groups it contained. With the help of veteran brewers on the Home Brew Digest (an Internet mailing list) and Rec.Crafts.Brewing (a Usenet newsgroup) I soon discovered why my first beer had turned out so brilliantly clear, yet fit only for mosquitoes to lay their eggs in. As I became more experienced, and was able to brew beer that could stand proudly with any commercial offering, I realized that I was seeing new brewers on the 'Net with the same basic questions that I had. They were reading the same books I had and some of those were excellent books. Well, I decided to write an electronic document that contained everything that a beginning brewer would need to know to get started. It contained equipment descriptions, process descriptions and some of the Why's of homebrewing. I posted it to electronic bulletin boards and homebrewing archive computer sites such as Sierra.Stanford.edu . It was reviewed by other brewers and accepted as one of the best brewing guides available. It has been through four revisions as comments were received and I learned more about the Why's of brewing. That document, "How To Brew Your First Beer" is still available and free to download and/or reproduce for personal use. It was written to help the first-time brewer produce a fool-proof beer - one they could be proud of. That document has apparently served quite well, it has been requested and distributed world-wide, including Europe, North America, Australia, Africa, and Asia- the Middle East and the Far East. Probably several thousand copies have been distributed by now. Glad I could help.'' <br />
<br />
''As time went by, and I moved on to Partial Mashes (half extract, half malted grain) and All-Grain Brewing, I actually saw requests on the 'Net from brewers requesting "Palmer-type" documents explaining these more complex brewing methods. There is a lot to talk about with these methods though, and I realized that it would be best done with a book. So, here we go...'' <br />
<br />
''Oh, one more thing, I should mention that Extract Brewing should not be viewed as inferior to brewing with grain, it is merely easier. It takes up less space and uses less equipment. You can brew national competition winning beers using extracts. The reason I moved on to Partial Mashes and then to All-Grain was because brewing is FUN. These methods really let you roll up your sleeves, fire up the kettles and be the inventor. You can let the mad-scientist in you come forth, you can combine different malts and hops at will, defying conventions and conservatives, raising your creation up to the storm and calling down the lightening...Hah hah HAH....'' <br />
<br />
''But I digress, thermo-nuclear brewing methods will be covered in another book. Okay, on with the show...'' <br />
<br />
[[How to brew/Section 1|Section 1 :&nbsp;Brewing your first beer with malt extract&nbsp;&gt;&gt;&gt;]]</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew/Introduction&diff=42How to brew/Introduction2009-02-09T22:02:50Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div>Il y a beaucoup de bons ouvrages déjà disponibles traitant du brassage amateur, alors pourquoi en écrire un de plus me demanderez vous&nbsp;? La réponse est&nbsp;: c'est une question d'objectif. Quand j'ai commencé à apprendre comment brasser ma propre bière il y a quelques années, j'ai lu tous les livres que je pouvais trouver; dont certains avaient été 15 ans auparavant. Il était évident pour moi que l'état de l'art avait quelque peu muri entre temps. Là où un ouvrage pouvait recommander l'utilisation de levure de boulangerie et recouvrir la bière en fermentation d'un torchon, un autre ouvrage insistait sur les levures de bière et peut être même un barboteur. Ainsi, il m'a semblé qu'un autre point de vue, soulignant les comment et pourquoi du processus de brassage, pourrait aider plus de nouveaux brasseurs à bien commencer. <br />
<br />
''There are many good books on homebrewing currently available, so why did I write one you ask? The answer is: a matter of perspective. When I began learning how to brew my own beer several years ago, I read every book I could find; books often published 15 years apart. It was evident to me that the state of the art had matured a bit. Where one book would recommend using baking yeast and covering the fermenting beer with a towel, a later book would insist on brewing yeast and perhaps an airlock. So, I felt that another point of view, laying out the hows and whys of the brewing processes, might help more new brewers get a better start.'' <br />
<br />
''Here is a synopsis of the brewing process:'' <br />
<br />
#''Malted barley is soaked in hot water to release the malt sugars.'' <br />
#''The malt sugar solution is boiled with Hops for seasoning.'' <br />
#''The solution is cooled and yeast is added to begin fermentation.'' <br />
#''The yeast ferments the sugars, releasing CO2 and ethyl alcohol.'' <br />
#''When the main fermentation is complete, the beer is bottled with a little bit of added sugar to provide the carbonation.''<br />
<br />
''Sounds fairly simple doesn't it? It is, but as you read this book you will realize the incredible amount of information that I glossed over with those five steps. The first step alone can fill an entire book, several in fact. But brewing is easy. And it's fun. Brewing is an art as well as a science. Some people may be put off by the technical side of things, but this is a science that you can taste. The science is what allows everyone to become the artist. Learning about the processes of beer making will let you better apply them as an artist. As my history teacher used to chide me, "It's only boring until you learn something about it. Knowledge makes things interesting."'' <br />
<br />
''As an engineer, I was intrigued with the process of beermaking. I wanted to know what each step was supposed to be doing so I could understand how to better accomplish them. For instance, adding the yeast to the beer wort: the emphasis was to get the yeast fermenting as soon as possible to prevent unwanted competing yeasts or microbes from getting a foothold. There are actually several factors that influence yeast propagation, not all of which were explained in any one book. This kind of editing was an effort by the authors to present the information that they felt was most important to overall success and enjoyment of the hobby. Each of us has a different perspective.'' <br />
<br />
''Fortunately for me, I discovered the Internet and the homebrewing discussion groups it contained. With the help of veteran brewers on the Home Brew Digest (an Internet mailing list) and Rec.Crafts.Brewing (a Usenet newsgroup) I soon discovered why my first beer had turned out so brilliantly clear, yet fit only for mosquitoes to lay their eggs in. As I became more experienced, and was able to brew beer that could stand proudly with any commercial offering, I realized that I was seeing new brewers on the 'Net with the same basic questions that I had. They were reading the same books I had and some of those were excellent books. Well, I decided to write an electronic document that contained everything that a beginning brewer would need to know to get started. It contained equipment descriptions, process descriptions and some of the Why's of homebrewing. I posted it to electronic bulletin boards and homebrewing archive computer sites such as Sierra.Stanford.edu . It was reviewed by other brewers and accepted as one of the best brewing guides available. It has been through four revisions as comments were received and I learned more about the Why's of brewing. That document, "How To Brew Your First Beer" is still available and free to download and/or reproduce for personal use. It was written to help the first-time brewer produce a fool-proof beer - one they could be proud of. That document has apparently served quite well, it has been requested and distributed world-wide, including Europe, North America, Australia, Africa, and Asia- the Middle East and the Far East. Probably several thousand copies have been distributed by now. Glad I could help.'' <br />
<br />
''As time went by, and I moved on to Partial Mashes (half extract, half malted grain) and All-Grain Brewing, I actually saw requests on the 'Net from brewers requesting "Palmer-type" documents explaining these more complex brewing methods. There is a lot to talk about with these methods though, and I realized that it would be best done with a book. So, here we go...'' <br />
<br />
''Oh, one more thing, I should mention that Extract Brewing should not be viewed as inferior to brewing with grain, it is merely easier. It takes up less space and uses less equipment. You can brew national competition winning beers using extracts. The reason I moved on to Partial Mashes and then to All-Grain was because brewing is FUN. These methods really let you roll up your sleeves, fire up the kettles and be the inventor. You can let the mad-scientist in you come forth, you can combine different malts and hops at will, defying conventions and conservatives, raising your creation up to the storm and calling down the lightening...Hah hah HAH....'' <br />
<br />
''But I digress, thermo-nuclear brewing methods will be covered in another book. Okay, on with the show...'' <br />
<br />
[[How_to_brew/Section_1|Section 1 :&nbsp;Brewing your first beer with malt extract&nbsp;&gt;&gt;&gt;]] <br />
<br />
[[Category:How_to_brew|Introduction]]</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew&diff=41How to brew2009-02-09T22:00:47Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div>= Bienvenue sur la traduction de "How to Brew" de John Palmer<br> =<br />
<br />
[[Image:Htb3cover.jpg|thumb|right]]Que vous ayiez besoin d'un guide simple et efficace pour brasser votre première bière, ou que vous soyiez un brasseur amateur initié au tout grain, cet ouvrage vous sera utile. Il couvre un large spectre de techniques de brassage - précisément, clairement et simplement. <br>Après des années de recherches et d'améliorations, l'auteur est heureux de vous présenter cet abordable ouvrage sur le brassage amateur pour une lecture en ligne, dans son intégralité. <br />
<br />
Cette 1ère édition de "How to Brew" est gratuite. Vous êtes libre d'entrer, le consulter entièrement et imprimer ses pages pour votre usage personnel. <br />
<br />
''source&nbsp;: ''[http://www.howtobrew.com ''http://www.howtobrew.com''] <br />
<br />
''Traduction effectuées par des membres volontaires du forum BrassageAmateur.com <br>avec l'aimable autorisation de John Palmer.'' <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Sommaire ==<br />
<br />
*[[How to brew/Introduction|Introduction]] <br />
*[[How to brew/Section 1|Section 1 : Votre première bière avec de l'extrait de malt]] <br />
*[[How to brew/Section 2|Section 2 : Votre première bière avec extrait et malts spéciaux]] <br />
*[[How to brew/Section 3|Section 3 : Votre première bière "tout grain"]] <br />
*[[How to brew/Section 4|Section 4 : Calculer ses recettes et solutions aux principaux problèmes]]<br />
<br />
&nbsp; <br />
<br />
[[Category:How_to_brew]]</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew/Introduction&diff=40How to brew/Introduction2009-02-09T21:58:59Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div>Il y a beaucoup de bons ouvrages déjà disponibles traitant du brassage amateur, alors pourquoi en écrire un de plus me demanderez vous&nbsp;? La réponse est&nbsp;: c'est une question d'objectif. Quand j'ai commencé à apprendre comment brasser ma propre bière il y a quelques années, j'ai lu tous les livres que je pouvais trouver; dont certains avaient été 15 ans auparavant. Il était évident pour moi que l'état de l'art avait quelque peu muri entre temps. Là où un ouvrage pouvait recommander l'utilisation de levure de boulangerie et recouvrir la bière en fermentation d'un torchon, un autre ouvrage insistait sur les levures de bière et peut être même un barboteur. Ainsi, il m'a semblé qu'un autre point de vue, soulignant les comment et pourquoi du processus de brassage, pourrait aider plus de nouveaux brasseurs à bien commencer. <br />
<br />
''There are many good books on homebrewing currently available, so why did I write one you ask? The answer is: a matter of perspective. When I began learning how to brew my own beer several years ago, I read every book I could find; books often published 15 years apart. It was evident to me that the state of the art had matured a bit. Where one book would recommend using baking yeast and covering the fermenting beer with a towel, a later book would insist on brewing yeast and perhaps an airlock. So, I felt that another point of view, laying out the hows and whys of the brewing processes, might help more new brewers get a better start.'' <br />
<br />
''Here is a synopsis of the brewing process:'' <br />
<br />
#''Malted barley is soaked in hot water to release the malt sugars.'' <br />
#''The malt sugar solution is boiled with Hops for seasoning.'' <br />
#''The solution is cooled and yeast is added to begin fermentation.'' <br />
#''The yeast ferments the sugars, releasing CO2 and ethyl alcohol.'' <br />
#''When the main fermentation is complete, the beer is bottled with a little bit of added sugar to provide the carbonation.''<br />
<br />
''Sounds fairly simple doesn't it? It is, but as you read this book you will realize the incredible amount of information that I glossed over with those five steps. The first step alone can fill an entire book, several in fact. But brewing is easy. And it's fun. Brewing is an art as well as a science. Some people may be put off by the technical side of things, but this is a science that you can taste. The science is what allows everyone to become the artist. Learning about the processes of beer making will let you better apply them as an artist. As my history teacher used to chide me, "It's only boring until you learn something about it. Knowledge makes things interesting."'' <br />
<br />
''As an engineer, I was intrigued with the process of beermaking. I wanted to know what each step was supposed to be doing so I could understand how to better accomplish them. For instance, adding the yeast to the beer wort: the emphasis was to get the yeast fermenting as soon as possible to prevent unwanted competing yeasts or microbes from getting a foothold. There are actually several factors that influence yeast propagation, not all of which were explained in any one book. This kind of editing was an effort by the authors to present the information that they felt was most important to overall success and enjoyment of the hobby. Each of us has a different perspective.'' <br />
<br />
''Fortunately for me, I discovered the Internet and the homebrewing discussion groups it contained. With the help of veteran brewers on the Home Brew Digest (an Internet mailing list) and Rec.Crafts.Brewing (a Usenet newsgroup) I soon discovered why my first beer had turned out so brilliantly clear, yet fit only for mosquitoes to lay their eggs in. As I became more experienced, and was able to brew beer that could stand proudly with any commercial offering, I realized that I was seeing new brewers on the 'Net with the same basic questions that I had. They were reading the same books I had and some of those were excellent books. Well, I decided to write an electronic document that contained everything that a beginning brewer would need to know to get started. It contained equipment descriptions, process descriptions and some of the Why's of homebrewing. I posted it to electronic bulletin boards and homebrewing archive computer sites such as Sierra.Stanford.edu . It was reviewed by other brewers and accepted as one of the best brewing guides available. It has been through four revisions as comments were received and I learned more about the Why's of brewing. That document, "How To Brew Your First Beer" is still available and free to download and/or reproduce for personal use. It was written to help the first-time brewer produce a fool-proof beer - one they could be proud of. That document has apparently served quite well, it has been requested and distributed world-wide, including Europe, North America, Australia, Africa, and Asia- the Middle East and the Far East. Probably several thousand copies have been distributed by now. Glad I could help.'' <br />
<br />
''As time went by, and I moved on to Partial Mashes (half extract, half malted grain) and All-Grain Brewing, I actually saw requests on the 'Net from brewers requesting "Palmer-type" documents explaining these more complex brewing methods. There is a lot to talk about with these methods though, and I realized that it would be best done with a book. So, here we go...'' <br />
<br />
''Oh, one more thing, I should mention that Extract Brewing should not be viewed as inferior to brewing with grain, it is merely easier. It takes up less space and uses less equipment. You can brew national competition winning beers using extracts. The reason I moved on to Partial Mashes and then to All-Grain was because brewing is FUN. These methods really let you roll up your sleeves, fire up the kettles and be the inventor. You can let the mad-scientist in you come forth, you can combine different malts and hops at will, defying conventions and conservatives, raising your creation up to the storm and calling down the lightening...Hah hah HAH....'' <br />
<br />
''But I digress, thermo-nuclear brewing methods will be covered in another book. Okay, on with the show...'' <br />
<br />
[[How_to_brew/Section_1/A_Crash_Course_in_Brewing|Section 1 : A Crash course of homebrewing &gt;&gt;&gt;]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:How_to_brew|Introduction]]</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=Discussion:How_to_brew/Section_1/Chap_1_:_Cours_de_brassage_acc%C3%A9l%C3%A9r%C3%A9&diff=39Discussion:How to brew/Section 1/Chap 1 : Cours de brassage accéléré2009-02-09T21:56:17Z<p>WikiAdmin : Nouvelle page : Coucou ici la discussion à propose de la page How to Brew/Section 1/A crach course in brewing. JLB</p>
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<div>Coucou ici la discussion à propose de la page How to Brew/Section 1/A crach course in brewing. JLB</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew/Section_1/Chap_1_:_Cours_de_brassage_acc%C3%A9l%C3%A9r%C3%A9&diff=38How to brew/Section 1/Chap 1 : Cours de brassage accéléré2009-02-09T21:51:10Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
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<div>{{RightTOC}}<br />
== What Do I Do? ==<br />
<br />
If you are like me, you are probably standing in the kitchen, wanting to get started, your beer kit and equipment on the counter, wondering how long this will take and what to do first. Frankly, the first thing you should do is read all of Section I - Brewing Your First Beer With Extract. This book is going to teach you How To Brew, from the fundamentals to the advanced methods; you won't be confused by conflicting instructions on a beer kit, and you will have an outstanding first batch. <br />
<br />
But if you are like me, you probably want to do this right now while you have some time. (It's going to take about 3 hours, depending.) So, in this first chapter, I will walk you through the steps necessary to get your first batch bubbling in the fermentor, and give you an overview of what you will do to ferment and bottle your beer. <br />
<br />
The instructions in this chapter may not explain why you are doing each step or even what you are doing. To understand the Whats and Whys of brewing, you will need to read the rest of this book. Each of the chapters in Section I discuss the brewing steps in detail, giving you the purpose behind each step. You will know what you are doing, rather than doing it that way because "that's what it said..." You will know how long to boil the wort, how to really use hops, why to bother cooling the wort, why to bother re-hydrating the yeast, why to wait two weeks before bottling... Get the picture? <br />
<br />
But, if you can't wait, this chapter should see you through. Beer production can be broken down into 3 main events: Brew Day, Fermentation, and Bottling Day. If you have questions about terminology or equipment, be sure to review the Glossary and Required Equipment sections via the links at the top of the page. <br />
<br />
&nbsp; <br />
<br />
== Brew Day ==<br />
<br />
<br>Equipment Needed<br>Let's review the minimum equipment you will need for this first batch: <br />
<br />
a 20 qt. brew pot (large canning pot) <br>large stirring spoon (non-wood) <br>ordinary table spoon <br>measuring cup (preferably Pyrex glass) <br>glass jar (at least 12 oz) <br>fermentor (food-grade plastic bucket or glass carboy) <br>airlock (get from homebrew shop) <br>sanitizer (chlorine bleach or other) <br>thermometer (optional) <br />
<br />
&nbsp; <br />
<br />
Recipe <br>Cincinnati Pale Ale<br>Ingredients for a 5 gallon batch <br />
<br />
3-4 lb. Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped <br>2 lb. Amber dry malt extract <br>12 AAU of bittering hops (any variety) For example, 1 oz. of 12% AA Nugget, or 1.5 oz. of 8% AA Perle <br>5 AAU of finishing hops (Cascade or other) For example, 1 oz. of 5% Cascade or 1.25 oz. of 4% Liberty <br>2 packets of dried ale yeast <br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br>Preparation (45 Minutes)<br><br />
<br />
=== Assemble ingredients. ===<br />
<br />
Gather together the ingredients for the brew. You may have purchased a brewing kit at the homebrew shop and it will contain the ingredients needed to brew a particular style of beer. A kit usually consists of malt extract, yeast, and hops. The extract may already be "hopped" and the kit may not include any hops. <br />
<br />
If you don't have a kit, then head to a homebrew supply store and buy the ingredients outlined in the recipe here. You will notice that the recipe calls for various quantities of hops measured in AAUs. AAU stands for alpha-acid units. Briefly, an AAU is a unit obtained by multiplying the alpha-acid rating of the hop (a percentage value) by the weight (ounces) that you intend to use. For example, 2 oz of a 6% alpha-acid hop equals 12 AAUs. Every package of hops you buy will list the hop's alpha-acid rating. To figure out how much of a hop you will need for this recipe, just divide the AAU target by the alpha-acid percentage on your hops. For example, 12 AAUs divided by 12 (Nugget hop's alpha-acid rating) equals 1 oz; 12 AAUs divided by 8 (Perle hop's alpha rating) equals 1 1/2 oz. (See Chapter 5 - Hops, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Boil water. ===<br />
<br />
You will need at least a gallon of sterile water for a variety of small tasks. Start by boiling about 1 gallon of water for 10 minutes and let it cool, covered, to room temperature. <br />
<br />
Table 1 - Cleaning and Sanitizing Checklist Brewpot <br>__ Clean <br><br>Stirring Spoon <br>__ Clean <br><br>Tablespoon <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Measuring Cup <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Yeast Starter Jar <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Fermentor and Lid <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Airlock <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Thermometer <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br />
<br />
=== <br>Clean and sanitize. ===<br />
<br />
It may seem strange to the first-time brewer, but probably the most important thing in brewing is good cleaning and sanitization. Clean all equipment that will be used during the brew with a mild, unscented dish detergent, making sure to rinse well. Some equipment will need to be sanitized for use after the boiling stage. You can easily make a simple sanitizing solution by filling the fermentor bucket with 5 gallons of water and adding 5 tablespoons of chlorine bleach (a concentration equivalent to 1 TBS/gallon, or 4 ml/L). Soak all items that need to be sanitized in this bucket for 20 minutes. After soaking, dump the sanitizing solution and pour in some of the pre-boiled water for a quick rinse to remove any excess sanitizer. Place the small spoon and the thermometer in the yeast starter jar and cover it with plastic wrap. Cover the fermentor with the lid to keep it clean. (See Chapter 2- Preparations, for more info,) <br />
<br />
Making Wort- (1 1/2 Hours)<br>Now we begin the fun part of the work, creating the wort. Wort is what brewers call the sweet, amber liquid extracted from malted barley that the yeast will later ferment into beer. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Boil the brew water. ===<br />
<br />
In the brewpot, bring 2 gallons of water to a boil. Pour this water into the fermentor and leave it to cool. Now bring 3 gallons of water to boil in the brewpot. You will be boiling all of the extract in just 3 gallons and adding this concentrated wort to the water already in the fermentor to make the total 5 gallons. (See Chapter - Water for Extract Brewing, for more info.) <br />
<br />
Note: If your beer kit includes some crushed specialty grain, you will need to steep that first before adding the extract. (See Chapter 13 - Steeping Specialty Grain, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Rehydrate the dried yeast. ===<br />
<br />
Although many people skip this step with fair results, re-hydrating it assures the best results. While you are waiting for the brew water to boil, rehydrate two packets of dried ale yeast. Put 1 cup of warm (95-105°F, 35-40°C), preboiled water into your sanitized jar and stir in the yeast. Cover with plastic wrap and wait 15 minutes. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Next, "proof" the yeast. Start by adding one teaspoon of malt extract or table sugar to a small amount of water (1/4 cup, for example) and boil it to sanitize. (A microwave oven is good for this step.) Allow the sugar solution to cool and then add it to the yeast jar. Cover and place in a warm area out of direct sunlight. Check after 30 minutes, it should be exhibiting some signs of activity - some foaming and/or churning. If it just seems to sit on the bottom of the jar, then it is probably dead. Repeat the rehydration procedure with more yeast. (See Chapter 6 - Yeast, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Add malt extract. ===<br />
<br />
When the water in the brewpot is boiling, turn off the stove and stir in the malt extract. Be sure the extract is completely dissolved (if your malt extract is the dry variety, make sure there are no clumps; if the extract is syrup, make sure that none is stuck to the bottom of the pot). Next, turn the heat back on and resume the boil. Stir the wort regularly during the boil to be sure that it doesn't scorch. <br />
<br />
=== Add hops. ===<br />
<br />
If you are using unhopped extract, add the first (bittering) hop addition and begin timing the hour-long boil.(See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Watch for boilovers. ===<br />
<br />
As the wort boils, foam will form on the surface. This foam will persist until the wort goes through the "hot break" stage . The wort will easily boil over during this foaming stage, so stay close by and stir frequently . Blow on it and turn the heat down if it begins to boil over. Put a few copper pennies into the pot to help prevent boilovers.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling for more info.) <br />
<br />
=== Add finishing hops (optional). ===<br />
<br />
If you are using unhopped malt extract or want to add more character to hopped extract, add finishing hops during the last 15 minutes of the hour-long boil. (See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.) <br />
<br />
=== Shut down the boil. ===<br />
<br />
The boil time for extract beers depends on two things: waiting for the "hot break" (See Step 8) and boiling for hop additions. In a nutshell, if you are using hopped extract without any added hops then you only need to boil through the hot break stage, about 15 minutes. With some extracts, the hot break will be very weak, and you may have little foam to begin with. If you are using hopped extract but adding flavoring or aroma hops, then you will probably want to boil for 30 minutes. If you are using unhopped extract, then you will need to add hops for bittering and should boil for an hour. (See Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits, Chapter 5 - Hops, and Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Cool the wort. ===<br />
<br />
After the boil, the wort must be cooled to yeast pitching temperature (65-90 °F [18-32 °C]) as quickly as possible. To do this, immerse the pot in a cold water bath. A sink, bathtub, or a handy snowbank all work well. Be sure to keep the lid on the pot while cooling to prevent any cooling water or other potential contaminants from getting in.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.) <br />
<br />
&nbsp; <br />
<br />
== Fermentation<br> ==<br />
<br />
The science of fermentation is discussed in Chapter 8 - Fermentation. Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Batch, walks you through the application of that science, so that from 10 ft. away, you will be able to perspicaciously inform curious onlookers that the beer is in the Adaptive, Attenuative, or Conditioning phase of activity. <br />
<br />
=== Pitch the yeast. ===<br />
<br />
Pour the rehydrated yeast solution into the fermentation bucket. <br />
<br />
=== Add cooled wort. ===<br />
<br />
Pour the cooled wort into the fermentation bucket "aggressively," so that it splashes and churns in the bucket. This action adds the oxygen yeast need for growth. This is the only time during the brewing process that you want the beer to be aerated or exposed to oxygen. All other transfers should be done "quietly," with a sanitized siphon and very little disturbance in the flow and minimal contact with the air.If you had added hops during the boil, you can remove them during this step by pouring the wort into the fermentor through a strainer. It is not necessary to remove the hops, however. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
How to Siphon<br>When racking or bottling , you cannot start a siphon by sucking on it or you will contaminate and sour the batch with bacteria from your mouth. <br />
<br />
All parts of the siphon (racking cane, tubing, and cutoff valve or bottle filler) need to be sanitized, especially the inside. After sanitizing, leave the siphon full of sanitizer and carefully place the racking cane in your beer. Release the clamp/valve or your clean-and-sanitized thumb and allow the sanitizer to drain into a jar. Make sure the outlet is lower than the fermenter, or you will drain the sanitizer into your beer. <br />
<br />
As the sanitizer drains, it will draw the beer into the siphon and you can stop and transfer the outlet to your bottling bucket or bottles. Thus you can siphon without risk of contamination.<br><br />
<br />
=== <br>Store the fermentor. ===<br />
<br />
Put the lid tightly on the fermentor and carry it to a secure location where it will be undisturbed for two weeks. Choose a location that has a stable temperature of 65-70 °F (18-21 °C). A warmer temperature of 75 °F (24 °C) is okay, but above 80 °F (26 °C) the flavor of the beer will be affected. As soon as you have finished moving it, insert the airlock. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Leave it alone! ===<br />
<br />
After about 24 hours, the airlock will be bubbling steadily, the exciting evidence of fermentation. The fermentation will proceed like this for two to four days, depending on the conditions of your fermentation. The activity will decrease as most of the malt sugars are consumed by the yeast, though the yeast will continue to ferment the beer long after the bubbling diminishes. Leave the beer in the fermentor for a total of two weeks. <br />
<br />
=== Clean Up. ===<br />
<br />
Now is the time to wash out your brewpot and other equipment. Only use mild unscented detergents, or the cleaners recommended in Chapter 2, and rinse well. <br />
<br />
&nbsp; <br />
<br />
== Bottling Day ==<br />
<br />
<br>The second big day in your career as a homebrewer comes two weeks later, after fermentation is complete. Everything outlined below is thoroughly discussed in Chapter 11 - Priming and Bottling. To bottle your beer, you will need: <br />
<br />
48 (12-oz) bottles <br>bottle brush (kitchen or household cleaning variety is OK) <br>bottle capper (from homebrew shop) <br>bottle caps (from homebrew shop) <br>bottling bucket (basically another fermentor bucket with a spigot and bottle filler attached) <br>racking cane/siphon/bottle filler (from homebrew shop) <br>Sugar (4-5 oz by weight) <br />
<br />
=== Prepare your bottles ===<br />
<br />
A typical 5-gallon batch requires two cases (48) of 12-oz bottles for bottling. Thoroughly clean and sanitize the bottles before use. If you are using old bottles, check them inside for dirt or mold deposits. They may need to be scrubbed with a bottle brush to get them really clean. Always clean first, then sanitize. <br />
<br />
=== Prepare your bottle caps ===<br />
<br />
Bottle caps must be sanitized before use, and the best way is to soak them in sanitizing solution. Some brewers use flip-top (Groelsch style) bottles. The ceramic part of the flip tops can be sanitized along with the bottles. The rubber seals can be sanitized like the bottle caps. <br />
<br />
=== Prepare your priming sugar ===<br />
<br />
We add a priming solution just before bottling to provide carbonation to the beer in the bottle. Boil 3/4 cup (4-5 oz by weight) of corn sugar or 2/3 cup (3.8-4.8 oz by weight) of cane sugar in two cups of water. Cover the pan and allow it to cool. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Combine beer and priming sugar ===<br />
<br />
The best method for preparing the beer and priming sugar solution is to use a separate container the same size as your fermentor as a "bottling bucket." Clean and sanitize it and pour the priming solution into it. Next, siphon the beer from the fermentor into the bottling bucket. Don't simply pour the beer into the bucket, and don't let the beer splash as you siphon it in. Instead, put the end of the siphon under the surface of the beer as it fills. The swirling motion of the beer as it enters the bucket will be sufficient to evenly mix the priming solution into the beer without aeration. <br />
<br />
If you don't have a bottling bucket, you can gently pour the priming solution into the fermentor and gently stir it. Allow the sediment in the fermentor to settle for 15-30 minutes before proceeding. You can fill the bottles using the bottle filler attachment on your siphon. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Bottle ===<br />
<br />
Carefully fill the bottles with the primed beer, place a sanitized bottle cap on each bottle, and crimp it using the bottle capper. At this stage it is helpful to have a friend operate the capper while you fill the bottles. <br />
<br />
=== Store the bottles ===<br />
<br />
Place the capped bottles out of the light in a warm (room temperature) environment (65-75 °F [18-24 °C]). The bottles will take about two weeks to carbonate. The bottles will have a thin layer of yeast on the bottom. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Serving Day ==<br />
<br />
<br>At last, you get to sample the fruit of your efforts. It's been about a month, and you are ready to open your first bottle and see what kind of wonderful beer you have created. During the past two weeks, the yeast still swimming around in the beer have consumed the priming sugar, creating just enough carbon dioxide to carbonate your beer perfectly. <br />
<br />
OK, so maybe you couldn't wait this long and you already opened a bottle. You may have noticed the beer wasn't fully carbonated or that it seemed carbonated but the bubbles had no staying power. You may have also noticed a "green" flavor. That flavor is the sign of a young beer. The two-week "conditioning" period not only adds carbonation but also gives the beer flavors time to meld and balance out. <br />
<br />
=== Chill your beer ===<br />
<br />
The bottled beer does not need to be stored cold. It will keep for approximately six months, depending on how well you managed to avoid exposure to oxygen during the last stage of fermentation and the bottling process. You will probably want to chill it before serving, however. The optimal temperature for serving beer depends on the style, varying from 40-55°F (4-12°C). In general, the darker the beer, the warmer you serve it. <br />
<br />
=== Pouring your beer ===<br />
<br />
To pour the beer without getting yeast in your glass, tip the bottle slowly to avoid disturbing the yeast layer on the bottom of the bottle. With practice, you will be able to pour everything but the last quarter inch of beer without getting any yeast in your glass. <br />
<br />
=== Savor the flavor ===<br />
<br />
Finally, take a deep draught and savor the flavor of the beer you have created. Don't rush it - there's plenty more (47 bottles, in fact). Take time to evaluate the flavor, its bitterness qualities, its sweetness, the level of carbonation. These observations are your first steps to beer appreciation and designing your own recipes.</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew/Section_1/Chap_1_:_Cours_de_brassage_acc%C3%A9l%C3%A9r%C3%A9&diff=37How to brew/Section 1/Chap 1 : Cours de brassage accéléré2009-02-09T21:47:38Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div>== What Do I Do? ==<br />
<br />
If you are like me, you are probably standing in the kitchen, wanting to get started, your beer kit and equipment on the counter, wondering how long this will take and what to do first. Frankly, the first thing you should do is read all of Section I - Brewing Your First Beer With Extract. This book is going to teach you How To Brew, from the fundamentals to the advanced methods; you won't be confused by conflicting instructions on a beer kit, and you will have an outstanding first batch. <br />
<br />
But if you are like me, you probably want to do this right now while you have some time. (It's going to take about 3 hours, depending.) So, in this first chapter, I will walk you through the steps necessary to get your first batch bubbling in the fermentor, and give you an overview of what you will do to ferment and bottle your beer. <br />
<br />
The instructions in this chapter may not explain why you are doing each step or even what you are doing. To understand the Whats and Whys of brewing, you will need to read the rest of this book. Each of the chapters in Section I discuss the brewing steps in detail, giving you the purpose behind each step. You will know what you are doing, rather than doing it that way because "that's what it said..." You will know how long to boil the wort, how to really use hops, why to bother cooling the wort, why to bother re-hydrating the yeast, why to wait two weeks before bottling... Get the picture? <br />
<br />
But, if you can't wait, this chapter should see you through. Beer production can be broken down into 3 main events: Brew Day, Fermentation, and Bottling Day. If you have questions about terminology or equipment, be sure to review the Glossary and Required Equipment sections via the links at the top of the page. <br />
<br />
&nbsp; <br />
<br />
== Brew Day ==<br />
<br />
<br>Equipment Needed<br>Let's review the minimum equipment you will need for this first batch: <br />
<br />
a 20 qt. brew pot (large canning pot) <br>large stirring spoon (non-wood) <br>ordinary table spoon <br>measuring cup (preferably Pyrex glass) <br>glass jar (at least 12 oz) <br>fermentor (food-grade plastic bucket or glass carboy) <br>airlock (get from homebrew shop) <br>sanitizer (chlorine bleach or other) <br>thermometer (optional) <br />
<br />
&nbsp; <br />
<br />
Recipe <br>Cincinnati Pale Ale<br>Ingredients for a 5 gallon batch <br />
<br />
3-4 lb. Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped <br>2 lb. Amber dry malt extract <br>12 AAU of bittering hops (any variety) For example, 1 oz. of 12% AA Nugget, or 1.5 oz. of 8% AA Perle <br>5 AAU of finishing hops (Cascade or other) For example, 1 oz. of 5% Cascade or 1.25 oz. of 4% Liberty <br>2 packets of dried ale yeast <br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br>Preparation (45 Minutes)<br><br />
<br />
=== Assemble ingredients. ===<br />
<br />
Gather together the ingredients for the brew. You may have purchased a brewing kit at the homebrew shop and it will contain the ingredients needed to brew a particular style of beer. A kit usually consists of malt extract, yeast, and hops. The extract may already be "hopped" and the kit may not include any hops. <br />
<br />
If you don't have a kit, then head to a homebrew supply store and buy the ingredients outlined in the recipe here. You will notice that the recipe calls for various quantities of hops measured in AAUs. AAU stands for alpha-acid units. Briefly, an AAU is a unit obtained by multiplying the alpha-acid rating of the hop (a percentage value) by the weight (ounces) that you intend to use. For example, 2 oz of a 6% alpha-acid hop equals 12 AAUs. Every package of hops you buy will list the hop's alpha-acid rating. To figure out how much of a hop you will need for this recipe, just divide the AAU target by the alpha-acid percentage on your hops. For example, 12 AAUs divided by 12 (Nugget hop's alpha-acid rating) equals 1 oz; 12 AAUs divided by 8 (Perle hop's alpha rating) equals 1 1/2 oz. (See Chapter 5 - Hops, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Boil water. ===<br />
<br />
You will need at least a gallon of sterile water for a variety of small tasks. Start by boiling about 1 gallon of water for 10 minutes and let it cool, covered, to room temperature. <br />
<br />
Table 1 - Cleaning and Sanitizing Checklist Brewpot <br>__ Clean <br><br>Stirring Spoon <br>__ Clean <br><br>Tablespoon <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Measuring Cup <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Yeast Starter Jar <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Fermentor and Lid <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Airlock <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Thermometer <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br />
<br />
=== <br>Clean and sanitize. ===<br />
<br />
It may seem strange to the first-time brewer, but probably the most important thing in brewing is good cleaning and sanitization. Clean all equipment that will be used during the brew with a mild, unscented dish detergent, making sure to rinse well. Some equipment will need to be sanitized for use after the boiling stage. You can easily make a simple sanitizing solution by filling the fermentor bucket with 5 gallons of water and adding 5 tablespoons of chlorine bleach (a concentration equivalent to 1 TBS/gallon, or 4 ml/L). Soak all items that need to be sanitized in this bucket for 20 minutes. After soaking, dump the sanitizing solution and pour in some of the pre-boiled water for a quick rinse to remove any excess sanitizer. Place the small spoon and the thermometer in the yeast starter jar and cover it with plastic wrap. Cover the fermentor with the lid to keep it clean. (See Chapter 2- Preparations, for more info,) <br />
<br />
Making Wort- (1 1/2 Hours)<br>Now we begin the fun part of the work, creating the wort. Wort is what brewers call the sweet, amber liquid extracted from malted barley that the yeast will later ferment into beer. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Boil the brew water. ===<br />
<br />
In the brewpot, bring 2 gallons of water to a boil. Pour this water into the fermentor and leave it to cool. Now bring 3 gallons of water to boil in the brewpot. You will be boiling all of the extract in just 3 gallons and adding this concentrated wort to the water already in the fermentor to make the total 5 gallons. (See Chapter - Water for Extract Brewing, for more info.) <br />
<br />
Note: If your beer kit includes some crushed specialty grain, you will need to steep that first before adding the extract. (See Chapter 13 - Steeping Specialty Grain, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Rehydrate the dried yeast. ===<br />
<br />
Although many people skip this step with fair results, re-hydrating it assures the best results. While you are waiting for the brew water to boil, rehydrate two packets of dried ale yeast. Put 1 cup of warm (95-105°F, 35-40°C), preboiled water into your sanitized jar and stir in the yeast. Cover with plastic wrap and wait 15 minutes. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Next, "proof" the yeast. Start by adding one teaspoon of malt extract or table sugar to a small amount of water (1/4 cup, for example) and boil it to sanitize. (A microwave oven is good for this step.) Allow the sugar solution to cool and then add it to the yeast jar. Cover and place in a warm area out of direct sunlight. Check after 30 minutes, it should be exhibiting some signs of activity - some foaming and/or churning. If it just seems to sit on the bottom of the jar, then it is probably dead. Repeat the rehydration procedure with more yeast. (See Chapter 6 - Yeast, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Add malt extract. ===<br />
<br />
When the water in the brewpot is boiling, turn off the stove and stir in the malt extract. Be sure the extract is completely dissolved (if your malt extract is the dry variety, make sure there are no clumps; if the extract is syrup, make sure that none is stuck to the bottom of the pot). Next, turn the heat back on and resume the boil. Stir the wort regularly during the boil to be sure that it doesn't scorch. <br />
<br />
=== Add hops. ===<br />
<br />
If you are using unhopped extract, add the first (bittering) hop addition and begin timing the hour-long boil.(See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Watch for boilovers. ===<br />
<br />
As the wort boils, foam will form on the surface. This foam will persist until the wort goes through the "hot break" stage . The wort will easily boil over during this foaming stage, so stay close by and stir frequently . Blow on it and turn the heat down if it begins to boil over. Put a few copper pennies into the pot to help prevent boilovers.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling for more info.) <br />
<br />
=== Add finishing hops (optional). ===<br />
<br />
If you are using unhopped malt extract or want to add more character to hopped extract, add finishing hops during the last 15 minutes of the hour-long boil. (See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.) <br />
<br />
=== Shut down the boil. ===<br />
<br />
The boil time for extract beers depends on two things: waiting for the "hot break" (See Step 8) and boiling for hop additions. In a nutshell, if you are using hopped extract without any added hops then you only need to boil through the hot break stage, about 15 minutes. With some extracts, the hot break will be very weak, and you may have little foam to begin with. If you are using hopped extract but adding flavoring or aroma hops, then you will probably want to boil for 30 minutes. If you are using unhopped extract, then you will need to add hops for bittering and should boil for an hour. (See Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits, Chapter 5 - Hops, and Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Cool the wort. ===<br />
<br />
After the boil, the wort must be cooled to yeast pitching temperature (65-90 °F [18-32 °C]) as quickly as possible. To do this, immerse the pot in a cold water bath. A sink, bathtub, or a handy snowbank all work well. Be sure to keep the lid on the pot while cooling to prevent any cooling water or other potential contaminants from getting in.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.) <br />
<br />
&nbsp; <br />
<br />
== Fermentation<br> ==<br />
<br />
The science of fermentation is discussed in Chapter 8 - Fermentation. Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Batch, walks you through the application of that science, so that from 10 ft. away, you will be able to perspicaciously inform curious onlookers that the beer is in the Adaptive, Attenuative, or Conditioning phase of activity. <br />
<br />
=== Pitch the yeast. ===<br />
<br />
Pour the rehydrated yeast solution into the fermentation bucket. <br />
<br />
=== Add cooled wort. ===<br />
<br />
Pour the cooled wort into the fermentation bucket "aggressively," so that it splashes and churns in the bucket. This action adds the oxygen yeast need for growth. This is the only time during the brewing process that you want the beer to be aerated or exposed to oxygen. All other transfers should be done "quietly," with a sanitized siphon and very little disturbance in the flow and minimal contact with the air.If you had added hops during the boil, you can remove them during this step by pouring the wort into the fermentor through a strainer. It is not necessary to remove the hops, however. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
How to Siphon<br>When racking or bottling , you cannot start a siphon by sucking on it or you will contaminate and sour the batch with bacteria from your mouth. <br />
<br />
All parts of the siphon (racking cane, tubing, and cutoff valve or bottle filler) need to be sanitized, especially the inside. After sanitizing, leave the siphon full of sanitizer and carefully place the racking cane in your beer. Release the clamp/valve or your clean-and-sanitized thumb and allow the sanitizer to drain into a jar. Make sure the outlet is lower than the fermenter, or you will drain the sanitizer into your beer. <br />
<br />
As the sanitizer drains, it will draw the beer into the siphon and you can stop and transfer the outlet to your bottling bucket or bottles. Thus you can siphon without risk of contamination.<br><br />
<br />
=== <br>Store the fermentor. ===<br />
<br />
Put the lid tightly on the fermentor and carry it to a secure location where it will be undisturbed for two weeks. Choose a location that has a stable temperature of 65-70 °F (18-21 °C). A warmer temperature of 75 °F (24 °C) is okay, but above 80 °F (26 °C) the flavor of the beer will be affected. As soon as you have finished moving it, insert the airlock. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Leave it alone! ===<br />
<br />
After about 24 hours, the airlock will be bubbling steadily, the exciting evidence of fermentation. The fermentation will proceed like this for two to four days, depending on the conditions of your fermentation. The activity will decrease as most of the malt sugars are consumed by the yeast, though the yeast will continue to ferment the beer long after the bubbling diminishes. Leave the beer in the fermentor for a total of two weeks. <br />
<br />
=== Clean Up. ===<br />
<br />
Now is the time to wash out your brewpot and other equipment. Only use mild unscented detergents, or the cleaners recommended in Chapter 2, and rinse well. <br />
<br />
&nbsp; <br />
<br />
== Bottling Day ==<br />
<br />
<br>The second big day in your career as a homebrewer comes two weeks later, after fermentation is complete. Everything outlined below is thoroughly discussed in Chapter 11 - Priming and Bottling. To bottle your beer, you will need: <br />
<br />
48 (12-oz) bottles <br>bottle brush (kitchen or household cleaning variety is OK) <br>bottle capper (from homebrew shop) <br>bottle caps (from homebrew shop) <br>bottling bucket (basically another fermentor bucket with a spigot and bottle filler attached) <br>racking cane/siphon/bottle filler (from homebrew shop) <br>Sugar (4-5 oz by weight) <br />
<br />
=== Prepare your bottles ===<br />
<br />
A typical 5-gallon batch requires two cases (48) of 12-oz bottles for bottling. Thoroughly clean and sanitize the bottles before use. If you are using old bottles, check them inside for dirt or mold deposits. They may need to be scrubbed with a bottle brush to get them really clean. Always clean first, then sanitize.<br />
<br />
=== Prepare your bottle caps ===<br />
<br />
Bottle caps must be sanitized before use, and the best way is to soak them in sanitizing solution. Some brewers use flip-top (Groelsch style) bottles. The ceramic part of the flip tops can be sanitized along with the bottles. The rubber seals can be sanitized like the bottle caps. <br />
<br />
=== Prepare your priming sugar ===<br />
<br />
We add a priming solution just before bottling to provide carbonation to the beer in the bottle. Boil 3/4 cup (4-5 oz by weight) of corn sugar or 2/3 cup (3.8-4.8 oz by weight) of cane sugar in two cups of water. Cover the pan and allow it to cool.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Combine beer and priming sugar ===<br />
<br />
The best method for preparing the beer and priming sugar solution is to use a separate container the same size as your fermentor as a "bottling bucket." Clean and sanitize it and pour the priming solution into it. Next, siphon the beer from the fermentor into the bottling bucket. Don't simply pour the beer into the bucket, and don't let the beer splash as you siphon it in. Instead, put the end of the siphon under the surface of the beer as it fills. The swirling motion of the beer as it enters the bucket will be sufficient to evenly mix the priming solution into the beer without aeration.<br />
<br />
If you don't have a bottling bucket, you can gently pour the priming solution into the fermentor and gently stir it. Allow the sediment in the fermentor to settle for 15-30 minutes before proceeding. You can fill the bottles using the bottle filler attachment on your siphon.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Bottle ===<br />
<br />
Carefully fill the bottles with the primed beer, place a sanitized bottle cap on each bottle, and crimp it using the bottle capper. At this stage it is helpful to have a friend operate the capper while you fill the bottles.<br />
<br />
=== Store the bottles ===<br />
<br />
Place the capped bottles out of the light in a warm (room temperature) environment (65-75 °F [18-24 °C]). The bottles will take about two weeks to carbonate. The bottles will have a thin layer of yeast on the bottom.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Serving Day ==<br />
<br />
<br>At last, you get to sample the fruit of your efforts. It's been about a month, and you are ready to open your first bottle and see what kind of wonderful beer you have created. During the past two weeks, the yeast still swimming around in the beer have consumed the priming sugar, creating just enough carbon dioxide to carbonate your beer perfectly.<br />
<br />
OK, so maybe you couldn't wait this long and you already opened a bottle. You may have noticed the beer wasn't fully carbonated or that it seemed carbonated but the bubbles had no staying power. You may have also noticed a "green" flavor. That flavor is the sign of a young beer. The two-week "conditioning" period not only adds carbonation but also gives the beer flavors time to meld and balance out.<br />
<br />
=== Chill your beer ===<br />
<br />
The bottled beer does not need to be stored cold. It will keep for approximately six months, depending on how well you managed to avoid exposure to oxygen during the last stage of fermentation and the bottling process. You will probably want to chill it before serving, however. The optimal temperature for serving beer depends on the style, varying from 40-55°F (4-12°C). In general, the darker the beer, the warmer you serve it.<br />
<br />
=== Pouring your beer ===<br />
<br />
To pour the beer without getting yeast in your glass, tip the bottle slowly to avoid disturbing the yeast layer on the bottom of the bottle. With practice, you will be able to pour everything but the last quarter inch of beer without getting any yeast in your glass.<br />
<br />
=== Savor the flavor ===<br />
<br />
Finally, take a deep draught and savor the flavor of the beer you have created. Don't rush it - there's plenty more (47 bottles, in fact). Take time to evaluate the flavor, its bitterness qualities, its sweetness, the level of carbonation. These observations are your first steps to beer appreciation and designing your own recipes.</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew/Section_1/Chap_1_:_Cours_de_brassage_acc%C3%A9l%C3%A9r%C3%A9&diff=36How to brew/Section 1/Chap 1 : Cours de brassage accéléré2009-02-09T21:40:13Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div>== What Do I Do? ==<br />
<br />
If you are like me, you are probably standing in the kitchen, wanting to get started, your beer kit and equipment on the counter, wondering how long this will take and what to do first. Frankly, the first thing you should do is read all of Section I - Brewing Your First Beer With Extract. This book is going to teach you How To Brew, from the fundamentals to the advanced methods; you won't be confused by conflicting instructions on a beer kit, and you will have an outstanding first batch.<br />
<br />
But if you are like me, you probably want to do this right now while you have some time. (It's going to take about 3 hours, depending.) So, in this first chapter, I will walk you through the steps necessary to get your first batch bubbling in the fermentor, and give you an overview of what you will do to ferment and bottle your beer.<br />
<br />
The instructions in this chapter may not explain why you are doing each step or even what you are doing. To understand the Whats and Whys of brewing, you will need to read the rest of this book. Each of the chapters in Section I discuss the brewing steps in detail, giving you the purpose behind each step. You will know what you are doing, rather than doing it that way because "that's what it said..." You will know how long to boil the wort, how to really use hops, why to bother cooling the wort, why to bother re-hydrating the yeast, why to wait two weeks before bottling... Get the picture?<br />
<br />
But, if you can't wait, this chapter should see you through. Beer production can be broken down into 3 main events: Brew Day, Fermentation, and Bottling Day. If you have questions about terminology or equipment, be sure to review the Glossary and Required Equipment sections via the links at the top of the page. <br />
<br />
&nbsp;<br />
<br />
== Brew Day ==<br />
<br />
<br>Equipment Needed<br>Let's review the minimum equipment you will need for this first batch: <br />
<br />
a 20 qt. brew pot (large canning pot) <br>large stirring spoon (non-wood) <br>ordinary table spoon <br>measuring cup (preferably Pyrex glass) <br>glass jar (at least 12 oz) <br>fermentor (food-grade plastic bucket or glass carboy) <br>airlock (get from homebrew shop) <br>sanitizer (chlorine bleach or other) <br>thermometer (optional) <br />
<br />
&nbsp; <br />
<br />
Recipe <br>Cincinnati Pale Ale<br>Ingredients for a 5 gallon batch <br />
<br />
3-4 lb. Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped <br>2 lb. Amber dry malt extract <br>12 AAU of bittering hops (any variety) For example, 1 oz. of 12% AA Nugget, or 1.5 oz. of 8% AA Perle <br>5 AAU of finishing hops (Cascade or other) For example, 1 oz. of 5% Cascade or 1.25 oz. of 4% Liberty <br>2 packets of dried ale yeast <br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br>Preparation (45 Minutes)<br><br />
<br />
=== Assemble ingredients. ===<br />
<br />
Gather together the ingredients for the brew. You may have purchased a brewing kit at the homebrew shop and it will contain the ingredients needed to brew a particular style of beer. A kit usually consists of malt extract, yeast, and hops. The extract may already be "hopped" and the kit may not include any hops. <br />
<br />
If you don't have a kit, then head to a homebrew supply store and buy the ingredients outlined in the recipe here. You will notice that the recipe calls for various quantities of hops measured in AAUs. AAU stands for alpha-acid units. Briefly, an AAU is a unit obtained by multiplying the alpha-acid rating of the hop (a percentage value) by the weight (ounces) that you intend to use. For example, 2 oz of a 6% alpha-acid hop equals 12 AAUs. Every package of hops you buy will list the hop's alpha-acid rating. To figure out how much of a hop you will need for this recipe, just divide the AAU target by the alpha-acid percentage on your hops. For example, 12 AAUs divided by 12 (Nugget hop's alpha-acid rating) equals 1 oz; 12 AAUs divided by 8 (Perle hop's alpha rating) equals 1 1/2 oz. (See Chapter 5 - Hops, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Boil water. ===<br />
<br />
You will need at least a gallon of sterile water for a variety of small tasks. Start by boiling about 1 gallon of water for 10 minutes and let it cool, covered, to room temperature. <br />
<br />
Table 1 - Cleaning and Sanitizing Checklist Brewpot <br>__ Clean <br><br>Stirring Spoon <br>__ Clean <br><br>Tablespoon <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Measuring Cup <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Yeast Starter Jar <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Fermentor and Lid <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Airlock <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Thermometer <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br />
<br />
=== <br>Clean and sanitize. ===<br />
<br />
It may seem strange to the first-time brewer, but probably the most important thing in brewing is good cleaning and sanitization. Clean all equipment that will be used during the brew with a mild, unscented dish detergent, making sure to rinse well. Some equipment will need to be sanitized for use after the boiling stage. You can easily make a simple sanitizing solution by filling the fermentor bucket with 5 gallons of water and adding 5 tablespoons of chlorine bleach (a concentration equivalent to 1 TBS/gallon, or 4 ml/L). Soak all items that need to be sanitized in this bucket for 20 minutes. After soaking, dump the sanitizing solution and pour in some of the pre-boiled water for a quick rinse to remove any excess sanitizer. Place the small spoon and the thermometer in the yeast starter jar and cover it with plastic wrap. Cover the fermentor with the lid to keep it clean. (See Chapter 2- Preparations, for more info,) <br />
<br />
Making Wort- (1 1/2 Hours)<br>Now we begin the fun part of the work, creating the wort. Wort is what brewers call the sweet, amber liquid extracted from malted barley that the yeast will later ferment into beer. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Boil the brew water. ===<br />
<br />
In the brewpot, bring 2 gallons of water to a boil. Pour this water into the fermentor and leave it to cool. Now bring 3 gallons of water to boil in the brewpot. You will be boiling all of the extract in just 3 gallons and adding this concentrated wort to the water already in the fermentor to make the total 5 gallons. (See Chapter - Water for Extract Brewing, for more info.) <br />
<br />
Note: If your beer kit includes some crushed specialty grain, you will need to steep that first before adding the extract. (See Chapter 13 - Steeping Specialty Grain, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Rehydrate the dried yeast. ===<br />
<br />
Although many people skip this step with fair results, re-hydrating it assures the best results. While you are waiting for the brew water to boil, rehydrate two packets of dried ale yeast. Put 1 cup of warm (95-105°F, 35-40°C), preboiled water into your sanitized jar and stir in the yeast. Cover with plastic wrap and wait 15 minutes. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Next, "proof" the yeast. Start by adding one teaspoon of malt extract or table sugar to a small amount of water (1/4 cup, for example) and boil it to sanitize. (A microwave oven is good for this step.) Allow the sugar solution to cool and then add it to the yeast jar. Cover and place in a warm area out of direct sunlight. Check after 30 minutes, it should be exhibiting some signs of activity - some foaming and/or churning. If it just seems to sit on the bottom of the jar, then it is probably dead. Repeat the rehydration procedure with more yeast. (See Chapter 6 - Yeast, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Add malt extract. ===<br />
<br />
When the water in the brewpot is boiling, turn off the stove and stir in the malt extract. Be sure the extract is completely dissolved (if your malt extract is the dry variety, make sure there are no clumps; if the extract is syrup, make sure that none is stuck to the bottom of the pot). Next, turn the heat back on and resume the boil. Stir the wort regularly during the boil to be sure that it doesn't scorch. <br />
<br />
=== Add hops. ===<br />
<br />
If you are using unhopped extract, add the first (bittering) hop addition and begin timing the hour-long boil.(See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Watch for boilovers. ===<br />
<br />
As the wort boils, foam will form on the surface. This foam will persist until the wort goes through the "hot break" stage . The wort will easily boil over during this foaming stage, so stay close by and stir frequently . Blow on it and turn the heat down if it begins to boil over. Put a few copper pennies into the pot to help prevent boilovers.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling for more info.) <br />
<br />
=== Add finishing hops (optional). ===<br />
<br />
If you are using unhopped malt extract or want to add more character to hopped extract, add finishing hops during the last 15 minutes of the hour-long boil. (See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.) <br />
<br />
=== Shut down the boil. ===<br />
<br />
The boil time for extract beers depends on two things: waiting for the "hot break" (See Step 8) and boiling for hop additions. In a nutshell, if you are using hopped extract without any added hops then you only need to boil through the hot break stage, about 15 minutes. With some extracts, the hot break will be very weak, and you may have little foam to begin with. If you are using hopped extract but adding flavoring or aroma hops, then you will probably want to boil for 30 minutes. If you are using unhopped extract, then you will need to add hops for bittering and should boil for an hour. (See Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits, Chapter 5 - Hops, and Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Cool the wort. ===<br />
<br />
After the boil, the wort must be cooled to yeast pitching temperature (65-90 °F [18-32 °C]) as quickly as possible. To do this, immerse the pot in a cold water bath. A sink, bathtub, or a handy snowbank all work well. Be sure to keep the lid on the pot while cooling to prevent any cooling water or other potential contaminants from getting in.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.) <br />
<br />
&nbsp;<br />
<br />
== Fermentation<br> ==<br />
<br />
The science of fermentation is discussed in Chapter 8 - Fermentation. Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Batch, walks you through the application of that science, so that from 10 ft. away, you will be able to perspicaciously inform curious onlookers that the beer is in the Adaptive, Attenuative, or Conditioning phase of activity. <br />
<br />
=== Pitch the yeast. ===<br />
<br />
Pour the rehydrated yeast solution into the fermentation bucket. <br />
<br />
=== Add cooled wort. ===<br />
<br />
Pour the cooled wort into the fermentation bucket "aggressively," so that it splashes and churns in the bucket. This action adds the oxygen yeast need for growth. This is the only time during the brewing process that you want the beer to be aerated or exposed to oxygen. All other transfers should be done "quietly," with a sanitized siphon and very little disturbance in the flow and minimal contact with the air.If you had added hops during the boil, you can remove them during this step by pouring the wort into the fermentor through a strainer. It is not necessary to remove the hops, however. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
How to Siphon<br>When racking or bottling , you cannot start a siphon by sucking on it or you will contaminate and sour the batch with bacteria from your mouth. <br />
<br />
All parts of the siphon (racking cane, tubing, and cutoff valve or bottle filler) need to be sanitized, especially the inside. After sanitizing, leave the siphon full of sanitizer and carefully place the racking cane in your beer. Release the clamp/valve or your clean-and-sanitized thumb and allow the sanitizer to drain into a jar. Make sure the outlet is lower than the fermenter, or you will drain the sanitizer into your beer. <br />
<br />
As the sanitizer drains, it will draw the beer into the siphon and you can stop and transfer the outlet to your bottling bucket or bottles. Thus you can siphon without risk of contamination.<br><br />
<br />
=== <br>Store the fermentor. ===<br />
<br />
Put the lid tightly on the fermentor and carry it to a secure location where it will be undisturbed for two weeks. Choose a location that has a stable temperature of 65-70 °F (18-21 °C). A warmer temperature of 75 °F (24 °C) is okay, but above 80 °F (26 °C) the flavor of the beer will be affected. As soon as you have finished moving it, insert the airlock. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Leave it alone! ===<br />
<br />
After about 24 hours, the airlock will be bubbling steadily, the exciting evidence of fermentation. The fermentation will proceed like this for two to four days, depending on the conditions of your fermentation. The activity will decrease as most of the malt sugars are consumed by the yeast, though the yeast will continue to ferment the beer long after the bubbling diminishes. Leave the beer in the fermentor for a total of two weeks. <br />
<br />
=== Clean Up. ===<br />
<br />
Now is the time to wash out your brewpot and other equipment. Only use mild unscented detergents, or the cleaners recommended in Chapter 2, and rinse well. <br />
<br />
&nbsp;</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew/Section_1/Chap_1_:_Cours_de_brassage_acc%C3%A9l%C3%A9r%C3%A9&diff=35How to brew/Section 1/Chap 1 : Cours de brassage accéléré2009-02-09T21:39:25Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div>== What Do I Do? ==<br />
<br />
If you are like me, you are probably standing in the kitchen, wanting to get started, your beer kit and equipment on the counter, wondering how long this will take and what to do first. Frankly, the first thing you should do is read all of Section I - Brewing Your First Beer With Extract. This book is going to teach you How To Brew, from the fundamentals to the advanced methods; you won't be confused by conflicting instructions on a beer kit, and you will have an outstanding first batch.<br />
<br />
But if you are like me, you probably want to do this right now while you have some time. (It's going to take about 3 hours, depending.) So, in this first chapter, I will walk you through the steps necessary to get your first batch bubbling in the fermentor, and give you an overview of what you will do to ferment and bottle your beer.<br />
<br />
The instructions in this chapter may not explain why you are doing each step or even what you are doing. To understand the Whats and Whys of brewing, you will need to read the rest of this book. Each of the chapters in Section I discuss the brewing steps in detail, giving you the purpose behind each step. You will know what you are doing, rather than doing it that way because "that's what it said..." You will know how long to boil the wort, how to really use hops, why to bother cooling the wort, why to bother re-hydrating the yeast, why to wait two weeks before bottling... Get the picture?<br />
<br />
But, if you can't wait, this chapter should see you through. Beer production can be broken down into 3 main events: Brew Day, Fermentation, and Bottling Day. If you have questions about terminology or equipment, be sure to review the Glossary and Required Equipment sections via the links at the top of the page. <br />
<br />
&nbsp;<br />
<br />
== Brew Day ==<br />
<br />
<br>Equipment Needed<br>Let's review the minimum equipment you will need for this first batch: <br />
<br />
a 20 qt. brew pot (large canning pot) <br>large stirring spoon (non-wood) <br>ordinary table spoon <br>measuring cup (preferably Pyrex glass) <br>glass jar (at least 12 oz) <br>fermentor (food-grade plastic bucket or glass carboy) <br>airlock (get from homebrew shop) <br>sanitizer (chlorine bleach or other) <br>thermometer (optional) <br />
<br />
&nbsp; <br />
<br />
Recipe <br>Cincinnati Pale Ale<br>Ingredients for a 5 gallon batch <br />
<br />
3-4 lb. Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped <br>2 lb. Amber dry malt extract <br>12 AAU of bittering hops (any variety) For example, 1 oz. of 12% AA Nugget, or 1.5 oz. of 8% AA Perle <br>5 AAU of finishing hops (Cascade or other) For example, 1 oz. of 5% Cascade or 1.25 oz. of 4% Liberty <br>2 packets of dried ale yeast <br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br>Preparation (45 Minutes)<br><br />
<br />
=== Assemble ingredients. ===<br />
<br />
Gather together the ingredients for the brew. You may have purchased a brewing kit at the homebrew shop and it will contain the ingredients needed to brew a particular style of beer. A kit usually consists of malt extract, yeast, and hops. The extract may already be "hopped" and the kit may not include any hops. <br />
<br />
If you don't have a kit, then head to a homebrew supply store and buy the ingredients outlined in the recipe here. You will notice that the recipe calls for various quantities of hops measured in AAUs. AAU stands for alpha-acid units. Briefly, an AAU is a unit obtained by multiplying the alpha-acid rating of the hop (a percentage value) by the weight (ounces) that you intend to use. For example, 2 oz of a 6% alpha-acid hop equals 12 AAUs. Every package of hops you buy will list the hop's alpha-acid rating. To figure out how much of a hop you will need for this recipe, just divide the AAU target by the alpha-acid percentage on your hops. For example, 12 AAUs divided by 12 (Nugget hop's alpha-acid rating) equals 1 oz; 12 AAUs divided by 8 (Perle hop's alpha rating) equals 1 1/2 oz. (See Chapter 5 - Hops, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Boil water. ===<br />
<br />
You will need at least a gallon of sterile water for a variety of small tasks. Start by boiling about 1 gallon of water for 10 minutes and let it cool, covered, to room temperature. <br />
<br />
Table 1 - Cleaning and Sanitizing Checklist Brewpot <br>__ Clean <br><br>Stirring Spoon <br>__ Clean <br><br>Tablespoon <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Measuring Cup <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Yeast Starter Jar <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Fermentor and Lid <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Airlock <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Thermometer <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br />
<br />
=== <br>Clean and sanitize. ===<br />
<br />
It may seem strange to the first-time brewer, but probably the most important thing in brewing is good cleaning and sanitization. Clean all equipment that will be used during the brew with a mild, unscented dish detergent, making sure to rinse well. Some equipment will need to be sanitized for use after the boiling stage. You can easily make a simple sanitizing solution by filling the fermentor bucket with 5 gallons of water and adding 5 tablespoons of chlorine bleach (a concentration equivalent to 1 TBS/gallon, or 4 ml/L). Soak all items that need to be sanitized in this bucket for 20 minutes. After soaking, dump the sanitizing solution and pour in some of the pre-boiled water for a quick rinse to remove any excess sanitizer. Place the small spoon and the thermometer in the yeast starter jar and cover it with plastic wrap. Cover the fermentor with the lid to keep it clean. (See Chapter 2- Preparations, for more info,) <br />
<br />
Making Wort- (1 1/2 Hours)<br>Now we begin the fun part of the work, creating the wort. Wort is what brewers call the sweet, amber liquid extracted from malted barley that the yeast will later ferment into beer. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Boil the brew water. ===<br />
<br />
In the brewpot, bring 2 gallons of water to a boil. Pour this water into the fermentor and leave it to cool. Now bring 3 gallons of water to boil in the brewpot. You will be boiling all of the extract in just 3 gallons and adding this concentrated wort to the water already in the fermentor to make the total 5 gallons. (See Chapter - Water for Extract Brewing, for more info.) <br />
<br />
Note: If your beer kit includes some crushed specialty grain, you will need to steep that first before adding the extract. (See Chapter 13 - Steeping Specialty Grain, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Rehydrate the dried yeast. ===<br />
<br />
Although many people skip this step with fair results, re-hydrating it assures the best results. While you are waiting for the brew water to boil, rehydrate two packets of dried ale yeast. Put 1 cup of warm (95-105°F, 35-40°C), preboiled water into your sanitized jar and stir in the yeast. Cover with plastic wrap and wait 15 minutes. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Next, "proof" the yeast. Start by adding one teaspoon of malt extract or table sugar to a small amount of water (1/4 cup, for example) and boil it to sanitize. (A microwave oven is good for this step.) Allow the sugar solution to cool and then add it to the yeast jar. Cover and place in a warm area out of direct sunlight. Check after 30 minutes, it should be exhibiting some signs of activity - some foaming and/or churning. If it just seems to sit on the bottom of the jar, then it is probably dead. Repeat the rehydration procedure with more yeast. (See Chapter 6 - Yeast, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Add malt extract. ===<br />
<br />
When the water in the brewpot is boiling, turn off the stove and stir in the malt extract. Be sure the extract is completely dissolved (if your malt extract is the dry variety, make sure there are no clumps; if the extract is syrup, make sure that none is stuck to the bottom of the pot). Next, turn the heat back on and resume the boil. Stir the wort regularly during the boil to be sure that it doesn't scorch. <br />
<br />
=== Add hops. ===<br />
<br />
If you are using unhopped extract, add the first (bittering) hop addition and begin timing the hour-long boil.(See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Watch for boilovers. ===<br />
<br />
As the wort boils, foam will form on the surface. This foam will persist until the wort goes through the "hot break" stage . The wort will easily boil over during this foaming stage, so stay close by and stir frequently . Blow on it and turn the heat down if it begins to boil over. Put a few copper pennies into the pot to help prevent boilovers.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling for more info.) <br />
<br />
=== Add finishing hops (optional). ===<br />
<br />
If you are using unhopped malt extract or want to add more character to hopped extract, add finishing hops during the last 15 minutes of the hour-long boil. (See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.) <br />
<br />
=== Shut down the boil. ===<br />
<br />
The boil time for extract beers depends on two things: waiting for the "hot break" (See Step 8) and boiling for hop additions. In a nutshell, if you are using hopped extract without any added hops then you only need to boil through the hot break stage, about 15 minutes. With some extracts, the hot break will be very weak, and you may have little foam to begin with. If you are using hopped extract but adding flavoring or aroma hops, then you will probably want to boil for 30 minutes. If you are using unhopped extract, then you will need to add hops for bittering and should boil for an hour. (See Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits, Chapter 5 - Hops, and Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.) <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Cool the wort. ===<br />
<br />
After the boil, the wort must be cooled to yeast pitching temperature (65-90 °F [18-32 °C]) as quickly as possible. To do this, immerse the pot in a cold water bath. A sink, bathtub, or a handy snowbank all work well. Be sure to keep the lid on the pot while cooling to prevent any cooling water or other potential contaminants from getting in.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.) <br />
<br />
&nbsp;<br />
<br />
== Fermentation<br> ==<br />
<br />
The science of fermentation is discussed in Chapter 8 - Fermentation. Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Batch, walks you through the application of that science, so that from 10 ft. away, you will be able to perspicaciously inform curious onlookers that the beer is in the Adaptive, Attenuative, or Conditioning phase of activity.<br />
<br />
=== 1. Pitch the yeast. ===<br />
<br />
Pour the rehydrated yeast solution into the fermentation bucket.<br />
<br />
=== 2. Add cooled wort. ===<br />
<br />
Pour the cooled wort into the fermentation bucket "aggressively," so that it splashes and churns in the bucket. This action adds the oxygen yeast need for growth. This is the only time during the brewing process that you want the beer to be aerated or exposed to oxygen. All other transfers should be done "quietly," with a sanitized siphon and very little disturbance in the flow and minimal contact with the air.If you had added hops during the boil, you can remove them during this step by pouring the wort into the fermentor through a strainer. It is not necessary to remove the hops, however.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
How to Siphon<br>When racking or bottling , you cannot start a siphon by sucking on it or you will contaminate and sour the batch with bacteria from your mouth.<br />
<br />
All parts of the siphon (racking cane, tubing, and cutoff valve or bottle filler) need to be sanitized, especially the inside. After sanitizing, leave the siphon full of sanitizer and carefully place the racking cane in your beer. Release the clamp/valve or your clean-and-sanitized thumb and allow the sanitizer to drain into a jar. Make sure the outlet is lower than the fermenter, or you will drain the sanitizer into your beer.<br />
<br />
As the sanitizer drains, it will draw the beer into the siphon and you can stop and transfer the outlet to your bottling bucket or bottles. Thus you can siphon without risk of contamination.<br><br />
<br />
=== <br>3. Store the fermentor. ===<br />
<br />
Put the lid tightly on the fermentor and carry it to a secure location where it will be undisturbed for two weeks. Choose a location that has a stable temperature of 65-70 °F (18-21 °C). A warmer temperature of 75 °F (24 °C) is okay, but above 80 °F (26 °C) the flavor of the beer will be affected. As soon as you have finished moving it, insert the airlock. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Leave it alone! ===<br />
<br />
After about 24 hours, the airlock will be bubbling steadily, the exciting evidence of fermentation. The fermentation will proceed like this for two to four days, depending on the conditions of your fermentation. The activity will decrease as most of the malt sugars are consumed by the yeast, though the yeast will continue to ferment the beer long after the bubbling diminishes. Leave the beer in the fermentor for a total of two weeks.<br />
<br />
=== 5. Clean Up. ===<br />
<br />
Now is the time to wash out your brewpot and other equipment. Only use mild unscented detergents, or the cleaners recommended in Chapter 2, and rinse well.<br />
<br />
&nbsp;</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew/Section_1/Chap_1_:_Cours_de_brassage_acc%C3%A9l%C3%A9r%C3%A9&diff=34How to brew/Section 1/Chap 1 : Cours de brassage accéléré2009-02-09T21:36:50Z<p>WikiAdmin : Nouvelle page : == What Do I Do? == If you are like me, you are probably standing in the kitchen, wanting to get started, your beer kit and equipment on the counter, wondering how long this will ta...</p>
<hr />
<div>== What Do I Do? ==<br />
<br />
If you are like me, you are probably standing in the kitchen, wanting to get started, your beer kit and equipment on the counter, wondering how long this will take and what to do first. Frankly, the first thing you should do is read all of Section I - Brewing Your First Beer With Extract. This book is going to teach you How To Brew, from the fundamentals to the advanced methods; you won't be confused by conflicting instructions on a beer kit, and you will have an outstanding first batch.<br />
<br />
But if you are like me, you probably want to do this right now while you have some time. (It's going to take about 3 hours, depending.) So, in this first chapter, I will walk you through the steps necessary to get your first batch bubbling in the fermentor, and give you an overview of what you will do to ferment and bottle your beer.<br />
<br />
The instructions in this chapter may not explain why you are doing each step or even what you are doing. To understand the Whats and Whys of brewing, you will need to read the rest of this book. Each of the chapters in Section I discuss the brewing steps in detail, giving you the purpose behind each step. You will know what you are doing, rather than doing it that way because "that's what it said..." You will know how long to boil the wort, how to really use hops, why to bother cooling the wort, why to bother re-hydrating the yeast, why to wait two weeks before bottling... Get the picture?<br />
<br />
But, if you can't wait, this chapter should see you through. Beer production can be broken down into 3 main events: Brew Day, Fermentation, and Bottling Day. If you have questions about terminology or equipment, be sure to review the Glossary and Required Equipment sections via the links at the top of the page. <br />
<br />
&nbsp;<br />
<br />
== Brew Day ==<br />
<br />
<br>Equipment Needed<br>Let's review the minimum equipment you will need for this first batch: <br />
<br />
a 20 qt. brew pot (large canning pot) <br>large stirring spoon (non-wood) <br>ordinary table spoon <br>measuring cup (preferably Pyrex glass) <br>glass jar (at least 12 oz) <br>fermentor (food-grade plastic bucket or glass carboy) <br>airlock (get from homebrew shop) <br>sanitizer (chlorine bleach or other) <br>thermometer (optional) <br />
<br />
&nbsp;<br />
<br />
Recipe <br>Cincinnati Pale Ale<br>Ingredients for a 5 gallon batch<br />
<br />
3-4 lb. Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped <br>2 lb. Amber dry malt extract <br>12 AAU of bittering hops (any variety) For example, 1 oz. of 12% AA Nugget, or 1.5 oz. of 8% AA Perle <br>5 AAU of finishing hops (Cascade or other) For example, 1 oz. of 5% Cascade or 1.25 oz. of 4% Liberty <br>2 packets of dried ale yeast <br><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br>Preparation (45 Minutes)<br><br />
<br />
=== 1. Assemble ingredients. ===<br />
<br />
Gather together the ingredients for the brew. You may have purchased a brewing kit at the homebrew shop and it will contain the ingredients needed to brew a particular style of beer. A kit usually consists of malt extract, yeast, and hops. The extract may already be "hopped" and the kit may not include any hops.<br />
<br />
If you don't have a kit, then head to a homebrew supply store and buy the ingredients outlined in the recipe here. You will notice that the recipe calls for various quantities of hops measured in AAUs. AAU stands for alpha-acid units. Briefly, an AAU is a unit obtained by multiplying the alpha-acid rating of the hop (a percentage value) by the weight (ounces) that you intend to use. For example, 2 oz of a 6% alpha-acid hop equals 12 AAUs. Every package of hops you buy will list the hop's alpha-acid rating. To figure out how much of a hop you will need for this recipe, just divide the AAU target by the alpha-acid percentage on your hops. For example, 12 AAUs divided by 12 (Nugget hop's alpha-acid rating) equals 1 oz; 12 AAUs divided by 8 (Perle hop's alpha rating) equals 1 1/2 oz. (See Chapter 5 - Hops, for more info.)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Boil water. ===<br />
<br />
You will need at least a gallon of sterile water for a variety of small tasks. Start by boiling about 1 gallon of water for 10 minutes and let it cool, covered, to room temperature. <br />
<br />
Table 1 - Cleaning and Sanitizing Checklist Brewpot <br>__ Clean <br><br>Stirring Spoon <br>__ Clean <br><br>Tablespoon <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Measuring Cup <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Yeast Starter Jar <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Fermentor and Lid <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Airlock <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br>Thermometer <br>__ Clean <br>__ Sanitize <br><br />
<br />
=== <br>3. Clean and sanitize. ===<br />
<br />
It may seem strange to the first-time brewer, but probably the most important thing in brewing is good cleaning and sanitization. Clean all equipment that will be used during the brew with a mild, unscented dish detergent, making sure to rinse well. Some equipment will need to be sanitized for use after the boiling stage. You can easily make a simple sanitizing solution by filling the fermentor bucket with 5 gallons of water and adding 5 tablespoons of chlorine bleach (a concentration equivalent to 1 TBS/gallon, or 4 ml/L). Soak all items that need to be sanitized in this bucket for 20 minutes. After soaking, dump the sanitizing solution and pour in some of the pre-boiled water for a quick rinse to remove any excess sanitizer. Place the small spoon and the thermometer in the yeast starter jar and cover it with plastic wrap. Cover the fermentor with the lid to keep it clean. (See Chapter 2- Preparations, for more info,) <br />
<br />
Making Wort- (1 1/2 Hours)<br>Now we begin the fun part of the work, creating the wort. Wort is what brewers call the sweet, amber liquid extracted from malted barley that the yeast will later ferment into beer.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Boil the brew water. ===<br />
<br />
In the brewpot, bring 2 gallons of water to a boil. Pour this water into the fermentor and leave it to cool. Now bring 3 gallons of water to boil in the brewpot. You will be boiling all of the extract in just 3 gallons and adding this concentrated wort to the water already in the fermentor to make the total 5 gallons. (See Chapter - Water for Extract Brewing, for more info.)<br />
<br />
Note: If your beer kit includes some crushed specialty grain, you will need to steep that first before adding the extract. (See Chapter 13 - Steeping Specialty Grain, for more info.)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Rehydrate the dried yeast. ===<br />
<br />
Although many people skip this step with fair results, re-hydrating it assures the best results. While you are waiting for the brew water to boil, rehydrate two packets of dried ale yeast. Put 1 cup of warm (95-105°F, 35-40°C), preboiled water into your sanitized jar and stir in the yeast. Cover with plastic wrap and wait 15 minutes.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Next, "proof" the yeast. Start by adding one teaspoon of malt extract or table sugar to a small amount of water (1/4 cup, for example) and boil it to sanitize. (A microwave oven is good for this step.) Allow the sugar solution to cool and then add it to the yeast jar. Cover and place in a warm area out of direct sunlight. Check after 30 minutes, it should be exhibiting some signs of activity - some foaming and/or churning. If it just seems to sit on the bottom of the jar, then it is probably dead. Repeat the rehydration procedure with more yeast. (See Chapter 6 - Yeast, for more info.)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. Add malt extract. ===<br />
<br />
When the water in the brewpot is boiling, turn off the stove and stir in the malt extract. Be sure the extract is completely dissolved (if your malt extract is the dry variety, make sure there are no clumps; if the extract is syrup, make sure that none is stuck to the bottom of the pot). Next, turn the heat back on and resume the boil. Stir the wort regularly during the boil to be sure that it doesn't scorch.<br />
<br />
=== 7. Add hops. ===<br />
<br />
If you are using unhopped extract, add the first (bittering) hop addition and begin timing the hour-long boil.(See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. Watch for boilovers. ===<br />
<br />
As the wort boils, foam will form on the surface. This foam will persist until the wort goes through the "hot break" stage . The wort will easily boil over during this foaming stage, so stay close by and stir frequently . Blow on it and turn the heat down if it begins to boil over. Put a few copper pennies into the pot to help prevent boilovers.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling for more info.)<br />
<br />
=== 9. Add finishing hops (optional). ===<br />
<br />
If you are using unhopped malt extract or want to add more character to hopped extract, add finishing hops during the last 15 minutes of the hour-long boil. (See Chapter 5 - Hops for more info.)<br />
<br />
=== 10. Shut down the boil. ===<br />
<br />
The boil time for extract beers depends on two things: waiting for the "hot break" (See Step 8) and boiling for hop additions. In a nutshell, if you are using hopped extract without any added hops then you only need to boil through the hot break stage, about 15 minutes. With some extracts, the hot break will be very weak, and you may have little foam to begin with. If you are using hopped extract but adding flavoring or aroma hops, then you will probably want to boil for 30 minutes. If you are using unhopped extract, then you will need to add hops for bittering and should boil for an hour. (See Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits, Chapter 5 - Hops, and Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Cool the wort. ===<br />
<br />
After the boil, the wort must be cooled to yeast pitching temperature (65-90 °F [18-32 °C]) as quickly as possible. To do this, immerse the pot in a cold water bath. A sink, bathtub, or a handy snowbank all work well. Be sure to keep the lid on the pot while cooling to prevent any cooling water or other potential contaminants from getting in.(See Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, for more info.)<br />
<br />
&nbsp;<br />
<br />
== Fermentation<br> ==<br />
<br />
The science of fermentation is discussed in Chapter 8 - Fermentation. Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Batch, walks you through the application of that science, so that from 10 ft. away, you will be able to perspicaciously inform curious onlookers that the beer is in the Adaptive, Attenuative, or Conditioning phase of activity.<br />
<br />
=== 1. Pitch the yeast. ===<br />
<br />
Pour the rehydrated yeast solution into the fermentation bucket.<br />
<br />
=== 2. Add cooled wort. ===<br />
<br />
Pour the cooled wort into the fermentation bucket "aggressively," so that it splashes and churns in the bucket. This action adds the oxygen yeast need for growth. This is the only time during the brewing process that you want the beer to be aerated or exposed to oxygen. All other transfers should be done "quietly," with a sanitized siphon and very little disturbance in the flow and minimal contact with the air.If you had added hops during the boil, you can remove them during this step by pouring the wort into the fermentor through a strainer. It is not necessary to remove the hops, however.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
How to Siphon<br>When racking or bottling , you cannot start a siphon by sucking on it or you will contaminate and sour the batch with bacteria from your mouth.<br />
<br />
All parts of the siphon (racking cane, tubing, and cutoff valve or bottle filler) need to be sanitized, especially the inside. After sanitizing, leave the siphon full of sanitizer and carefully place the racking cane in your beer. Release the clamp/valve or your clean-and-sanitized thumb and allow the sanitizer to drain into a jar. Make sure the outlet is lower than the fermenter, or you will drain the sanitizer into your beer.<br />
<br />
As the sanitizer drains, it will draw the beer into the siphon and you can stop and transfer the outlet to your bottling bucket or bottles. Thus you can siphon without risk of contamination.<br><br />
<br />
=== <br>3. Store the fermentor. ===<br />
<br />
Put the lid tightly on the fermentor and carry it to a secure location where it will be undisturbed for two weeks. Choose a location that has a stable temperature of 65-70 °F (18-21 °C). A warmer temperature of 75 °F (24 °C) is okay, but above 80 °F (26 °C) the flavor of the beer will be affected. As soon as you have finished moving it, insert the airlock. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Leave it alone! ===<br />
<br />
After about 24 hours, the airlock will be bubbling steadily, the exciting evidence of fermentation. The fermentation will proceed like this for two to four days, depending on the conditions of your fermentation. The activity will decrease as most of the malt sugars are consumed by the yeast, though the yeast will continue to ferment the beer long after the bubbling diminishes. Leave the beer in the fermentor for a total of two weeks.<br />
<br />
=== 5. Clean Up. ===<br />
<br />
Now is the time to wash out your brewpot and other equipment. Only use mild unscented detergents, or the cleaners recommended in Chapter 2, and rinse well.<br />
<br />
&nbsp;</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew/Section_1&diff=33How to brew/Section 12009-02-09T21:30:04Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div>= Brewing Your First Beer With Malt Extract<br> =<br />
<br />
Welcome to How To Brew! In this first section of the book, we are going to lay the groundwork for the rest of your brewing education. As with every new skill, it helps to learn to do things the right way the first time, rather than learning via short cuts that you will have to unlearn later on. On the other hand, when you learn how to drive, it is not necessary to learn how an internal combustion engine works. You just need to know that it does work when you keep it supplied with air and gasoline for fuel, oil for lubrication, and water for cooling.<br />
<br />
To learn to brew beer, you don't need to learn how the yeast metabolize the malt sugars. But, you need to understand that metabolizing is what they do, and you need to understand what they need from you to get the job done. Once you understand that, you can do your part, they can do theirs, and the job should turn out right. Once you gain some familiarity with the brewing processes, you can delve deeper into the inner workings and make your beer better.<br />
<br />
So, in Brewing Your First Beer With Extract, you will learn to drive. Chapter 1 - A Crash Course in Brewing, will provide an overview of the entire process for producing a beer. Chapter 2 - Brewing Preparations, explains why good preparation, including sanitation, is important, and how to go about it. Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits, examines the key ingredient of do-it-yourself beer and how to use it properly. Chapter 4 - Water For Extract Brewing, cuts to the chase with a few do's and don'ts about a very complex subject. Chapter 5 - Hops, covers the different kinds of hops, why to use them, how to use them, and how to measure them for consistency in your brewing. The last ingredient chapter in Section 1, Chapter 6 - Yeast, explains what yeast are, how to prepare them, and what they need to grow.<br />
<br />
From there, Section 1 moves into the physical processes of brewing. Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, walks you thru a typical brew day: mixing the wort, boiling it, and cooling it to prepare it for fermentation. Chapter 8 - Fermentation, examines how the yeast ferments wort into beer so you will understand what you are trying to do, without going into excruciating detail. Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Beer, does just what it says: takes what you have just learned and walks you through the practical application. <br />
<br />
Everybody wants to brew their favorite beer that they buy at the store, and it is usually a lager. So, Chapter 10 - What is Different for Brewing Lager Beer? examines the key differences of lager brewing, building on what you have already learned about ale brewing. Section 1 finishes with Chapter 11 - Priming and Bottling, explaining each step of how to package your five gallons of new beer into something you can really use.<br />
<br />
It is a long section, but you will learn to brew, and brew right the first time. Later sections of the book will delve deeper into malt and malted barley so you can take more control over the ingredients, and thus, your beer. The last section, Section 4 - Recipes, Experimentation, and Troubleshooting, will give you the roadmaps, the tools, and the repair manual you need to drive this hobby to new horizons. Have Fun!<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Sommaire&nbsp; ==<br />
<br />
#[[How_to_brew/Section_1/A_Crash_Course_in_Brewing |A Crash Course in Brewing]]&nbsp;<br />
#[[How_to_brew/Section_1/Brewing Preparations|Brewing Preparations]]&nbsp;<br />
#Malt Extract and Beer Kits&nbsp;<br />
#Water for Extract Brewing&nbsp;<br />
#Hops&nbsp;<br />
#Yeast&nbsp;<br />
#Boiling and Cooling&nbsp;<br />
#Fermentation&nbsp;<br />
#Fermenting Your First Beer&nbsp;<br />
#What is Different for Brewing Lager Beer?&nbsp;<br />
#Priming and Bottling <br></div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew/Section_1&diff=32How to brew/Section 12009-02-09T21:25:04Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div>= Brewing Your First Beer With Malt Extract<br> =<br />
<br />
Welcome to How To Brew! In this first section of the book, we are going to lay the groundwork for the rest of your brewing education. As with every new skill, it helps to learn to do things the right way the first time, rather than learning via short cuts that you will have to unlearn later on. On the other hand, when you learn how to drive, it is not necessary to learn how an internal combustion engine works. You just need to know that it does work when you keep it supplied with air and gasoline for fuel, oil for lubrication, and water for cooling.<br />
<br />
To learn to brew beer, you don't need to learn how the yeast metabolize the malt sugars. But, you need to understand that metabolizing is what they do, and you need to understand what they need from you to get the job done. Once you understand that, you can do your part, they can do theirs, and the job should turn out right. Once you gain some familiarity with the brewing processes, you can delve deeper into the inner workings and make your beer better.<br />
<br />
So, in Brewing Your First Beer With Extract, you will learn to drive. Chapter 1 - A Crash Course in Brewing, will provide an overview of the entire process for producing a beer. Chapter 2 - Brewing Preparations, explains why good preparation, including sanitation, is important, and how to go about it. Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits, examines the key ingredient of do-it-yourself beer and how to use it properly. Chapter 4 - Water For Extract Brewing, cuts to the chase with a few do's and don'ts about a very complex subject. Chapter 5 - Hops, covers the different kinds of hops, why to use them, how to use them, and how to measure them for consistency in your brewing. The last ingredient chapter in Section 1, Chapter 6 - Yeast, explains what yeast are, how to prepare them, and what they need to grow.<br />
<br />
From there, Section 1 moves into the physical processes of brewing. Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, walks you thru a typical brew day: mixing the wort, boiling it, and cooling it to prepare it for fermentation. Chapter 8 - Fermentation, examines how the yeast ferments wort into beer so you will understand what you are trying to do, without going into excruciating detail. Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Beer, does just what it says: takes what you have just learned and walks you through the practical application. <br />
<br />
Everybody wants to brew their favorite beer that they buy at the store, and it is usually a lager. So, Chapter 10 - What is Different for Brewing Lager Beer? examines the key differences of lager brewing, building on what you have already learned about ale brewing. Section 1 finishes with Chapter 11 - Priming and Bottling, explaining each step of how to package your five gallons of new beer into something you can really use.<br />
<br />
It is a long section, but you will learn to brew, and brew right the first time. Later sections of the book will delve deeper into malt and malted barley so you can take more control over the ingredients, and thus, your beer. The last section, Section 4 - Recipes, Experimentation, and Troubleshooting, will give you the roadmaps, the tools, and the repair manual you need to drive this hobby to new horizons. Have Fun!<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Sommaire&nbsp; ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
*[[How_to_brew/Section_1/0|What do I do]]<br />
*[[How_to_brew/Section_1/1|Brew day]]<br />
*[[How_to_brew/Section_1/2|Fermentation]]<br />
*[[How_to_brew/Section_1/3|Bottling day]]<br />
*[[How_to_brew/Section_1/4|Serving day]]<br />
*[[How_to_brew/Section_1/5|Read on ! Brew on !]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:How to brew|Section 1]]</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew/Section_1&diff=31How to brew/Section 12009-02-09T21:11:55Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div><br><br />
<br />
== Chapter 1 - A Crash Course in Brewing ==<br />
<br />
'''What Do I Do?''' <br />
<br />
If you are like me, you are probably standing in the kitchen, wanting to get started, your beer kit and equipment on the counter, wondering how long this will take and what to do first. Frankly, the first thing you should do is read all of Section I - Brewing Your First Beer With Extract. This book is going to teach you How To Brew, from the fundamentals to the advanced methods; you won't be confused by conflicting instructions on a beer kit, and you will have an outstanding first batch. <br />
<br />
But if you are like me, you probably want to do this right now while you have some time. (It's going to take about 3 hours, depending.) So, in this first chapter, I will walk you through the steps necessary to get your first batch bubbling in the fermentor, and give you an overview of what you will do to ferment and bottle your beer. <br />
<br />
The instructions in this chapter may not explain why you are doing each step or even what you are doing. To understand the Whats and Whys of brewing, you will need to read the rest of this book. Each of the chapters in Section I discuss the brewing steps in detail, giving you the purpose behind each step. You will know what you are doing, rather than doing it that way because "that's what it said..." You will know how long to boil the wort, how to really use hops, why to bother cooling the wort, why to bother re-hydrating the yeast, why to wait two weeks before bottling... Get the picture? <br />
<br />
But, if you can't wait, this chapter should see you through. Beer production can be broken down into 3 main events: Brew Day, Fermentation, and Bottling Day. If you have questions about terminology or equipment, be sure to review the Glossary and Required Equipment sections via the links at the top of the page. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Chapter 2 - Brewing Preparations ==<br />
<br />
'''The Road to Good Brewing''' <br />
<br />
There are three important things to keep in mind every time you brew: Preparation, Sanitation, and Good Record Keeping. Good preparation prevents nasty surprises. You don't want to be halfway through your brewing and realize that you don't have any yeast. You don't want to pour good wort into a fermentor that you forgot to clean. Cleaning and Sanitizing are part of your preparation but are the most important factors for assuring a successful batch of beer. During an interview at a very successful brewpub, the head brewer told me, "Good brewing is 75% cleaning." And I believe it. Lastly, there are two types of brewers- lucky and consistent. The lucky brewer will sometimes produce an outstanding batch of beer, but just as often one that is not. He brews from the seat-of-his-pants, innovating and experimenting with mixed results. The consistent brewer has more outstanding batches than poor ones. He may be an innovator and an experimenter, the difference is that he takes note of what he did and how much he did of it so that he can always learn from his results. Good record keeping will make the difference between luck and skill. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits ==<br />
<br />
'''What is Malt?''' <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[[Image:Malts.jpg|thumb|left]]Beer is brewed from malted barley. More precisely, beer is made by fermenting the sugars extracted from malted barley (mostly maltose). Malt is a general term used as an abbreviation for several things associated with maltose and malted barley. Brewer's malt is not Malted Milk Balls, Malted Milk Shakes, nor is it malt extract. In those cases, malt refers to the use of maltose - the sugar. The malts that brewers talk about are the specific types of malted barley that are processed to yield a wide range of fermentable maltose sugars. These include Lager Malts, Pale Malts, Vienna Malts, Munich Malts, Toasted, Roasted and Chocolate Malts. But what is malted barley? <br />
<br />
Malting is the process in which barley is soaked and drained to initiate the germination of the plant from the seed. When the seed germinates, it activates enzymes which start converting its starch reserves and proteins into sugars and amino acids that the growing plant can use. The purpose of malting a grain is to release these enzymes for use by the brewer. Once the seeds start to sprout, the grain is dried in a kiln to stop the enzymes until the brewer is ready to use the grain. <br />
<br />
The brewer crushes the malted barley and soaks it in hot water to reactivate and accelerate the enzyme activity, converting the barley's starch reserves into sugars in a short period of time. The resulting sugar is boiled with hops and fermented by the yeast to make beer. <br />
<br />
When making malt extract, the sugar solution is drawn off, pasteurized, and run into vacuum chambers for dehydration. By boiling off the water under a partial vacuum, the wort sugars are not caramelized by the heat of full boiling and a lighter tasting extract is produced. To make a hopped extract, Iso-Alpha Acid extracts of hops are added along with hop oils to give a complete hop character to the final wort extract. These hop extracts are added at the end of the process to prevent loss during dehydration. Malt extract takes a lot of the work out of brewing. <br />
<br />
Malt extract is sold in both liquid (syrup) and powdered forms. The syrups are approximately 20 percent water, so 4 pounds of Dry Malt Extract (DME) is roughly equal to 5 pounds of Liquid Malt Extract (LME). DME is produced by heating the liquid extract and spraying it from an atomizer in a heated chamber. Strong air currents keep the droplets suspended until they dry and settle to the floor. DME is identical to LME except for the additional dehydration and lack of hopping. DME is not hopped because hop compounds would be lost during the final dehydration. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Chapter 4 - Water for Extract Brewing ==<br />
<br />
'''The Taste of Water''' <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[[Image:Eau.jpg|thumb|left]]Water is very important to beer. After all, beer is mostly water. Some waters are famous for brewing: the soft water of Pilsen, the hard water of Burton, Midlands, and pure Rocky Mtn. spring water. Each of these waters contributed to the production of a unique tasting beer. But what about your water? Can it make a good beer? When using malt extract, the answer is almost always "Yes". If you are brewing with grain, the answer can vary from "Sometimes" to "Absolutely". <br />
<br />
The reason for the difference between the brewing methods is that the minerals in the water can affect the starch conversion of the mash, but once the sugars have been produced, the affect of water chemistry on the flavor of the beer is greatly reduced. When brewing with malt extract, if the water tastes good to begin with, the beer should taste good. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Chapter 5 - Hops ==<br />
<br />
'''What are they?''' <br />
<br />
[[Image:Hops1.jpg|thumb|left]][[Image:Hops2.jpg|thumb|left]] <br />
<br />
Hops are the cone-like flowers of a climbing vine that is native to the temperate regions of North America, Europe and Asia. The species has separate male and female plants and only the female vines produce the cones. The vines will climb 20 ft or more up any available support and are commonly trained onto strings or wires when grown commercially. The leaves resemble grape leaves and the cones vaguely resemble pine cones in shape but are light green, thin and papery. At the base of the petals are the yellow lupulin glands which contain the essential oils and resins that are so prized by brewers <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Hops have been cultivated for use in brewing for over 1000 years. The earliest known cultivation was in Central Europe, and by the early 1500s, cultivation had spread to Western Europe and Great Britain. At the turn of the century, about one dozen varieties of hop were being used for brewing; today, there are over one hundred. The focus of breeding programs has been to maintain desirable characteristics, while improving yield and disease resistance. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Chapter 6 - Yeast ==<br />
<br />
'''What Is It?''' <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[[Image:Yeast1.jpg|thumb|left]][[Image:Yeast2.jpg|thumb|left]]There was a time when the role of yeast in brewing was unknown. In the days of the Vikings, each family had their own brewing stick that they used for stirring the wort. These brewing sticks were regarded as family heirlooms because it was the use of that stick that guaranteed that the beer would turn out right. Obviously, those sticks retained the family yeast culture. The German Beer Purity Law of 1516 - The Reinheitsgebot, listed the only allowable materials for brewing as malt, hops, and water. With the discovery of yeast and its function in the late 1860's by Louis Pasteur, the law had to be amended. <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Brewer's Yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) is considered to be a type of fungus. It reproduces asexually by budding- splitting off little daughter cells. Yeast are unusual in that they can live and grow both with or without oxygen. Most micro-organisms can only do one or the other. Yeast can live without oxygen by a process that we refer to as fermentation. The yeast cells take in simple sugars like glucose and maltose and produce carbon dioxide and alcohol as waste products. <br />
<br />
Along with converting sugar to ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide, yeast produce many other compounds, including esters, fusel alcohols, ketones, various phenolics and fatty acids. Esters are the molecular compound responsible for the fruity notes in beer, phenols cause the spicy notes, and in combination with chlorine, medicinal notes. Diacetyl is a ketone compound that can be beneficial in limited amounts. It gives a butter or butterscotch note to the flavor profile of a beer and is desired to a degree in heavier Pale Ales, Scotch Ales and Stouts. Unfortunately, Diacetyl tends to be unstable and can take on stale, raunchy tones due to oxidation as the beer ages. This is particularly true for light lagers, where the presence of diacetyl is considered to be a flaw. Fusel alcohols are heavier molecular weight alcohols and are thought to be a major contributor to hangovers. These alcohols also have low taste thresholds and are often readily apparent as "sharp" notes. Fatty acids, although they take part in the chemical reactions that produce the desired compounds, also tend to oxidize in old beers and produce off-flavors. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling ==<br />
<br />
'''First Recipe'''<br />
<br />
Okay, are you ready to take the plunge? For your first beer, let's make an American Pale Ale.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
''Cincinnati Pale Ale<br>''<br>Ingredients:<br />
<br />
*3-4 lbs. of Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped.<br />
*3 lbs. of Amber dry malt extract.<br />
*12 AAUs of Bittering Hop (any variety) <br />
*5 AAUs of Finishing Hop (Cascade or other) <br />
*3 packets of dried ale yeast<br />
<br />
<br>American Pale Ale is an adaptation of the classic British Pale Ale. Most American Ale yeast strains are less fruity than comparable English ale yeasts, and thus American Pale Ale has a cleaner, less fruity taste than its British counterparts. Pale ales vary in color from gold to dark amber and typically have a hint of sweet caramel (from the use of caramel malts) that does not mask the hop finish. We will use amber malt extract for part of our recipe, which contains caramel malt, to achieve this. With the resurgence of interest in ales in the United States, pale ale evolved to reflect a renewed interest in American hop varieties and a higher level of bitterness as microbreweries experimented with craft brewing. The Cascade hop has become a staple of American microbrewing. It has a distinct aroma compared to the European hops and has helped American Pale Ale stand shoulder to shoulder with other classic beer styles of the world. Prime examples of this style are Anchor Liberty Ale™ and Sierra Nevada Pale Ale™.<br />
<br />
The Finishing hops are often Cascade but can be any other American hop variety like Liberty or Willamette. American Pale Ale is also commonly dry hopped, so an additional half ounce can be added to the primary fermenter after the bubbling starts to taper off or to the secondary for more hop aroma. Dry hopping does not increase the bitterness of the ale, but it adds a wonderful floral aroma and flavor.</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew/Section_1&diff=30How to brew/Section 12009-02-09T21:08:27Z<p>WikiAdmin : Nouvelle page : = Brewing Your First Beer With Malt Extract = <br>Welcome to How To Brew! In this first section of the book, we are going to lay the groundwork for the rest of your brewing educatio...</p>
<hr />
<div>= Brewing Your First Beer With Malt Extract =<br />
<br />
<br>Welcome to How To Brew! In this first section of the book, we are going to lay the groundwork for the rest of your brewing education. As with every new skill, it helps to learn to do things the right way the first time, rather than learning via short cuts that you will have to unlearn later on. On the other hand, when you learn how to drive, it is not necessary to learn how an internal combustion engine works. You just need to know that it does work when you keep it supplied with air and gasoline for fuel, oil for lubrication, and water for cooling.<br />
<br />
To learn to brew beer, you don't need to learn how the yeast metabolize the malt sugars. But, you need to understand that metabolizing is what they do, and you need to understand what they need from you to get the job done. Once you understand that, you can do your part, they can do theirs, and the job should turn out right. Once you gain some familiarity with the brewing processes, you can delve deeper into the inner workings and make your beer better.<br />
<br />
So, in Brewing Your First Beer With Extract, you will learn to drive. Chapter 1 - A Crash Course in Brewing, will provide an overview of the entire process for producing a beer. Chapter 2 - Brewing Preparations, explains why good preparation, including sanitation, is important, and how to go about it. Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits, examines the key ingredient of do-it-yourself beer and how to use it properly. Chapter 4 - Water For Extract Brewing, cuts to the chase with a few do's and don'ts about a very complex subject. Chapter 5 - Hops, covers the different kinds of hops, why to use them, how to use them, and how to measure them for consistency in your brewing. The last ingredient chapter in Section 1, Chapter 6 - Yeast, explains what yeast are, how to prepare them, and what they need to grow.<br />
<br />
From there, Section 1 moves into the physical processes of brewing. Chapter 7 - Boiling and Cooling, walks you thru a typical brew day: mixing the wort, boiling it, and cooling it to prepare it for fermentation. Chapter 8 - Fermentation, examines how the yeast ferments wort into beer so you will understand what you are trying to do, without going into excruciating detail. Chapter 9 - Fermenting Your First Beer, does just what it says: takes what you have just learned and walks you through the practical application. <br />
<br />
Everybody wants to brew their favorite beer that they buy at the store, and it is usually a lager. So, Chapter 10 - What is Different for Brewing Lager Beer? examines the key differences of lager brewing, building on what you have already learned about ale brewing. Section 1 finishes with Chapter 11 - Priming and Bottling, explaining each step of how to package your five gallons of new beer into something you can really use.<br />
<br />
It is a long section, but you will learn to brew, and brew right the first time. Later sections of the book will delve deeper into malt and malted barley so you can take more control over the ingredients, and thus, your beer. The last section, Section 4 - Recipes, Experimentation, and Troubleshooting, will give you the roadmaps, the tools, and the repair manual you need to drive this hobby to new horizons. Have Fun!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Chapter 1 - A Crash Course in Brewing ==<br />
<br />
'''What Do I Do?'''<br />
<br />
If you are like me, you are probably standing in the kitchen, wanting to get started, your beer kit and equipment on the counter, wondering how long this will take and what to do first. Frankly, the first thing you should do is read all of Section I - Brewing Your First Beer With Extract. This book is going to teach you How To Brew, from the fundamentals to the advanced methods; you won't be confused by conflicting instructions on a beer kit, and you will have an outstanding first batch.<br />
<br />
But if you are like me, you probably want to do this right now while you have some time. (It's going to take about 3 hours, depending.) So, in this first chapter, I will walk you through the steps necessary to get your first batch bubbling in the fermentor, and give you an overview of what you will do to ferment and bottle your beer.<br />
<br />
The instructions in this chapter may not explain why you are doing each step or even what you are doing. To understand the Whats and Whys of brewing, you will need to read the rest of this book. Each of the chapters in Section I discuss the brewing steps in detail, giving you the purpose behind each step. You will know what you are doing, rather than doing it that way because "that's what it said..." You will know how long to boil the wort, how to really use hops, why to bother cooling the wort, why to bother re-hydrating the yeast, why to wait two weeks before bottling... Get the picture?<br />
<br />
But, if you can't wait, this chapter should see you through. Beer production can be broken down into 3 main events: Brew Day, Fermentation, and Bottling Day. If you have questions about terminology or equipment, be sure to review the Glossary and Required Equipment sections via the links at the top of the page. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Chapter 2 - Brewing Preparations ==<br />
<br />
'''The Road to Good Brewing'''<br />
<br />
There are three important things to keep in mind every time you brew: Preparation, Sanitation, and Good Record Keeping. Good preparation prevents nasty surprises. You don't want to be halfway through your brewing and realize that you don't have any yeast. You don't want to pour good wort into a fermentor that you forgot to clean. Cleaning and Sanitizing are part of your preparation but are the most important factors for assuring a successful batch of beer. During an interview at a very successful brewpub, the head brewer told me, "Good brewing is 75% cleaning." And I believe it. Lastly, there are two types of brewers- lucky and consistent. The lucky brewer will sometimes produce an outstanding batch of beer, but just as often one that is not. He brews from the seat-of-his-pants, innovating and experimenting with mixed results. The consistent brewer has more outstanding batches than poor ones. He may be an innovator and an experimenter, the difference is that he takes note of what he did and how much he did of it so that he can always learn from his results. Good record keeping will make the difference between luck and skill.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Chapter 3 - Malt Extract and Beer Kits ==<br />
<br />
'''What is Malt?'''<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:Malts.jpg|thumb|left]]Beer is brewed from malted barley. More precisely, beer is made by fermenting the sugars extracted from malted barley (mostly maltose). Malt is a general term used as an abbreviation for several things associated with maltose and malted barley. Brewer's malt is not Malted Milk Balls, Malted Milk Shakes, nor is it malt extract. In those cases, malt refers to the use of maltose - the sugar. The malts that brewers talk about are the specific types of malted barley that are processed to yield a wide range of fermentable maltose sugars. These include Lager Malts, Pale Malts, Vienna Malts, Munich Malts, Toasted, Roasted and Chocolate Malts. But what is malted barley?<br />
<br />
Malting is the process in which barley is soaked and drained to initiate the germination of the plant from the seed. When the seed germinates, it activates enzymes which start converting its starch reserves and proteins into sugars and amino acids that the growing plant can use. The purpose of malting a grain is to release these enzymes for use by the brewer. Once the seeds start to sprout, the grain is dried in a kiln to stop the enzymes until the brewer is ready to use the grain. <br />
<br />
The brewer crushes the malted barley and soaks it in hot water to reactivate and accelerate the enzyme activity, converting the barley's starch reserves into sugars in a short period of time. The resulting sugar is boiled with hops and fermented by the yeast to make beer. <br />
<br />
When making malt extract, the sugar solution is drawn off, pasteurized, and run into vacuum chambers for dehydration. By boiling off the water under a partial vacuum, the wort sugars are not caramelized by the heat of full boiling and a lighter tasting extract is produced. To make a hopped extract, Iso-Alpha Acid extracts of hops are added along with hop oils to give a complete hop character to the final wort extract. These hop extracts are added at the end of the process to prevent loss during dehydration. Malt extract takes a lot of the work out of brewing. <br />
<br />
Malt extract is sold in both liquid (syrup) and powdered forms. The syrups are approximately 20 percent water, so 4 pounds of Dry Malt Extract (DME) is roughly equal to 5 pounds of Liquid Malt Extract (LME). DME is produced by heating the liquid extract and spraying it from an atomizer in a heated chamber. Strong air currents keep the droplets suspended until they dry and settle to the floor. DME is identical to LME except for the additional dehydration and lack of hopping. DME is not hopped because hop compounds would be lost during the final dehydration.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Chapter 4 - Water for Extract Brewing ==<br />
<br />
'''The Taste of Water'''<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:Eau.jpg|thumb|left]]Water is very important to beer. After all, beer is mostly water. Some waters are famous for brewing: the soft water of Pilsen, the hard water of Burton, Midlands, and pure Rocky Mtn. spring water. Each of these waters contributed to the production of a unique tasting beer. But what about your water? Can it make a good beer? When using malt extract, the answer is almost always "Yes". If you are brewing with grain, the answer can vary from "Sometimes" to "Absolutely".<br />
<br />
The reason for the difference between the brewing methods is that the minerals in the water can affect the starch conversion of the mash, but once the sugars have been produced, the affect of water chemistry on the flavor of the beer is greatly reduced. When brewing with malt extract, if the water tastes good to begin with, the beer should taste good.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Chapter 5 - Hops ==<br />
<br />
'''What are they?'''<br />
<br />
[[Image:Hops1.jpg|thumb|left]][[Image:Hops2.jpg|thumb|left]]<br />
<br />
Hops are the cone-like flowers of a climbing vine that is native to the temperate regions of North America, Europe and Asia. The species has separate male and female plants and only the female vines produce the cones. The vines will climb 20 ft or more up any available support and are commonly trained onto strings or wires when grown commercially. The leaves resemble grape leaves and the cones vaguely resemble pine cones in shape but are light green, thin and papery. At the base of the petals are the yellow lupulin glands which contain the essential oils and resins that are so prized by brewers<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Hops have been cultivated for use in brewing for over 1000 years. The earliest known cultivation was in Central Europe, and by the early 1500s, cultivation had spread to Western Europe and Great Britain. At the turn of the century, about one dozen varieties of hop were being used for brewing; today, there are over one hundred. The focus of breeding programs has been to maintain desirable characteristics, while improving yield and disease resistance. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Chapter 6 - Yeast ==<br />
<br />
'''What Is It?'''<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:Yeast1.jpg|thumb|left]][[Image:Yeast2.jpg|thumb|left]]There was a time when the role of yeast in brewing was unknown. In the days of the Vikings, each family had their own brewing stick that they used for stirring the wort. These brewing sticks were regarded as family heirlooms because it was the use of that stick that guaranteed that the beer would turn out right. Obviously, those sticks retained the family yeast culture. The German Beer Purity Law of 1516 - The Reinheitsgebot, listed the only allowable materials for brewing as malt, hops, and water. With the discovery of yeast and its function in the late 1860's by Louis Pasteur, the law had to be amended.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Brewer's Yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) is considered to be a type of fungus. It reproduces asexually by budding- splitting off little daughter cells. Yeast are unusual in that they can live and grow both with or without oxygen. Most micro-organisms can only do one or the other. Yeast can live without oxygen by a process that we refer to as fermentation. The yeast cells take in simple sugars like glucose and maltose and produce carbon dioxide and alcohol as waste products.<br />
<br />
Along with converting sugar to ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide, yeast produce many other compounds, including esters, fusel alcohols, ketones, various phenolics and fatty acids. Esters are the molecular compound responsible for the fruity notes in beer, phenols cause the spicy notes, and in combination with chlorine, medicinal notes. Diacetyl is a ketone compound that can be beneficial in limited amounts. It gives a butter or butterscotch note to the flavor profile of a beer and is desired to a degree in heavier Pale Ales, Scotch Ales and Stouts. Unfortunately, Diacetyl tends to be unstable and can take on stale, raunchy tones due to oxidation as the beer ages. This is particularly true for light lagers, where the presence of diacetyl is considered to be a flaw. Fusel alcohols are heavier molecular weight alcohols and are thought to be a major contributor to hangovers. These alcohols also have low taste thresholds and are often readily apparent as "sharp" notes. Fatty acids, although they take part in the chemical reactions that produce the desired compounds, also tend to oxidize in old beers and produce off-flavors.</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew&diff=23How to brew2009-02-09T20:54:18Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div>= Bienvenue sur la traduction de "How to Brew" de John Palmer<br> =<br />
<br />
[[Image:Htb3cover.jpg|thumb|right]]Que vous ayiez besoin d'un guide simple et efficace pour brasser votre première bière, ou que vous soyiez un brasseur amateur initié au tout grain, cet ouvrage vous sera utile. Il couvre un large spectre de techniques de brassage - précisément, clairement et simplement. <br>Après des années de recherches et d'améliorations, l'auteur est heureux de vous présenter cet abordable ouvrage sur le brassage amateur pour une lecture en ligne, dans son intégralité. <br />
<br />
Cette 1ère édition de "How to Brew" est gratuite. Vous êtes libre d'entrer, le consulter entièrement et imprimer ses pages pour votre usage personnel. <br />
<br />
''source&nbsp;: ''[http://www.howtobrew.com ''http://www.howtobrew.com''] <br />
<br />
''Avec l'aimable autorisation de John Palmer.'' <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Sommaire ==<br />
<br />
*[[How_to_brew/Introduction|Introduction]]<br />
*[[How_to_brew/Section_1|Section 1 : Votre première bière avec de l'extrait de malt]]<br />
*[[How_to_brew/Section_2|Section 2 : Votre première bière avec extrait et malts spéciaux]]<br />
*[[How_to_brew/Section_3|Section 3 : Votre première bière "tout grain"]]<br />
*[[How_to_brew/Section_4|Section 4 : Calculer ses recettes et solutions aux principaux problèmes]]<br />
<br />
&nbsp;<br />
<br />
[[Category:How_to_brew]]</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew/Introduction&diff=22How to brew/Introduction2009-02-09T20:41:30Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div>Il y a beaucoup de bons ouvrages déjà disponibles traitant du brassage amateur, alors pourquoi en écrire un de plus me demanderez vous&nbsp;? La réponse est&nbsp;: c'est une question d'objectif. Quand j'ai commencé à apprendre comment brasser ma propre bière il y a quelques années, j'ai lu tous les livres que je pouvais trouver; dont certains avaient été 15 ans auparavant. Il était évident pour moi que l'état de l'art avait quelque peu muri entre temps. Là où un ouvrage pouvait recommander l'utilisation de levure de boulangerie et recouvrir la bière en fermentation d'un torchon, un autre ouvrage insistait sur les levures de bière et peut être même un barboteur. Ainsi, il m'a semblé qu'un autre point de vue, soulignant les comment et pourquoi du processus de brassage, pourrait aider plus de nouveaux brasseurs à bien commencer. <br />
<br />
''There are many good books on homebrewing currently available, so why did I write one you ask? The answer is: a matter of perspective. When I began learning how to brew my own beer several years ago, I read every book I could find; books often published 15 years apart. It was evident to me that the state of the art had matured a bit. Where one book would recommend using baking yeast and covering the fermenting beer with a towel, a later book would insist on brewing yeast and perhaps an airlock. So, I felt that another point of view, laying out the hows and whys of the brewing processes, might help more new brewers get a better start.'' <br />
<br />
''Here is a synopsis of the brewing process:'' <br />
<br />
#''Malted barley is soaked in hot water to release the malt sugars.'' <br />
#''The malt sugar solution is boiled with Hops for seasoning.'' <br />
#''The solution is cooled and yeast is added to begin fermentation.'' <br />
#''The yeast ferments the sugars, releasing CO2 and ethyl alcohol.'' <br />
#''When the main fermentation is complete, the beer is bottled with a little bit of added sugar to provide the carbonation.''<br />
<br />
''Sounds fairly simple doesn't it? It is, but as you read this book you will realize the incredible amount of information that I glossed over with those five steps. The first step alone can fill an entire book, several in fact. But brewing is easy. And it's fun. Brewing is an art as well as a science. Some people may be put off by the technical side of things, but this is a science that you can taste. The science is what allows everyone to become the artist. Learning about the processes of beer making will let you better apply them as an artist. As my history teacher used to chide me, "It's only boring until you learn something about it. Knowledge makes things interesting."'' <br />
<br />
''As an engineer, I was intrigued with the process of beermaking. I wanted to know what each step was supposed to be doing so I could understand how to better accomplish them. For instance, adding the yeast to the beer wort: the emphasis was to get the yeast fermenting as soon as possible to prevent unwanted competing yeasts or microbes from getting a foothold. There are actually several factors that influence yeast propagation, not all of which were explained in any one book. This kind of editing was an effort by the authors to present the information that they felt was most important to overall success and enjoyment of the hobby. Each of us has a different perspective.'' <br />
<br />
''Fortunately for me, I discovered the Internet and the homebrewing discussion groups it contained. With the help of veteran brewers on the Home Brew Digest (an Internet mailing list) and Rec.Crafts.Brewing (a Usenet newsgroup) I soon discovered why my first beer had turned out so brilliantly clear, yet fit only for mosquitoes to lay their eggs in. As I became more experienced, and was able to brew beer that could stand proudly with any commercial offering, I realized that I was seeing new brewers on the 'Net with the same basic questions that I had. They were reading the same books I had and some of those were excellent books. Well, I decided to write an electronic document that contained everything that a beginning brewer would need to know to get started. It contained equipment descriptions, process descriptions and some of the Why's of homebrewing. I posted it to electronic bulletin boards and homebrewing archive computer sites such as Sierra.Stanford.edu . It was reviewed by other brewers and accepted as one of the best brewing guides available. It has been through four revisions as comments were received and I learned more about the Why's of brewing. That document, "How To Brew Your First Beer" is still available and free to download and/or reproduce for personal use. It was written to help the first-time brewer produce a fool-proof beer - one they could be proud of. That document has apparently served quite well, it has been requested and distributed world-wide, including Europe, North America, Australia, Africa, and Asia- the Middle East and the Far East. Probably several thousand copies have been distributed by now. Glad I could help.'' <br />
<br />
''As time went by, and I moved on to Partial Mashes (half extract, half malted grain) and All-Grain Brewing, I actually saw requests on the 'Net from brewers requesting "Palmer-type" documents explaining these more complex brewing methods. There is a lot to talk about with these methods though, and I realized that it would be best done with a book. So, here we go...'' <br />
<br />
''Oh, one more thing, I should mention that Extract Brewing should not be viewed as inferior to brewing with grain, it is merely easier. It takes up less space and uses less equipment. You can brew national competition winning beers using extracts. The reason I moved on to Partial Mashes and then to All-Grain was because brewing is FUN. These methods really let you roll up your sleeves, fire up the kettles and be the inventor. You can let the mad-scientist in you come forth, you can combine different malts and hops at will, defying conventions and conservatives, raising your creation up to the storm and calling down the lightening...Hah hah HAH....'' <br />
<br />
''But I digress, thermo-nuclear brewing methods will be covered in another book. Okay, on with the show...'' <br />
<br />
[[Category:How to brew|Introduction]]</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew&diff=21How to brew2009-02-09T20:40:39Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
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<div>= Bienvenue sur la traduction de "How to Brew" de John Palmer<br> =<br />
<br />
[[Image:Htb3cover.jpg|thumb|right]]Que vous ayiez besoin d'un guide simple et efficace pour brasser votre première bière, ou que vous soyiez un brasseur amateur initié au tout grain, cet ouvrage vous sera utile. Il couvre un large spectre de techniques de brassage - précisément, clairement et simplement. <br>Après des années de recherches et d'améliorations, l'auteur est heureux de vous présenter cet abordable ouvrage sur le brassage amateur pour une lecture en ligne, dans son intégralité. <br />
<br />
Cette 1ère édition de "How to Brew" est gratuite. Vous êtes libre d'entrer, le consulter entièrement et imprimer ses pages pour votre usage personnel. <br />
<br />
''source&nbsp;: ''[http://www.howtobrew.com ''http://www.howtobrew.com''] <br />
<br />
''Avec l'aimable autorisation de John Palmer.'' <br />
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<br><br />
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[[Category:How to brew]]</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew:Introduction&diff=20How to brew:Introduction2009-02-09T20:36:54Z<p>WikiAdmin : a renommé How to brew:Introduction en How to brew/Introduction</p>
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<div>#REDIRECT [[How to brew/Introduction]]</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew/Introduction&diff=19How to brew/Introduction2009-02-09T20:36:54Z<p>WikiAdmin : a renommé How to brew:Introduction en How to brew/Introduction</p>
<hr />
<div>Il y a beaucoup de bons ouvrages déjà disponibles traitant du brassage amateur, alors pourquoi en écrire un de plus me demanderez vous&nbsp;? La réponse est&nbsp;: c'est une question d'objectif. Quand j'ai commencé à apprendre comment brasser ma propre bière il y a quelques années, j'ai lu tous les livres que je pouvais trouver; dont certains avaient été 15 ans auparavant. Il était évident pour moi que l'état de l'art avait quelque peu muri entre temps. Là où un ouvrage pouvait recommander l'utilisation de levure de boulangerie et recouvrir la bière en fermentation d'un torchon, un autre ouvrage insistait sur les levures de bière et peut être même un barboteur. Ainsi, il m'a semblé qu'un autre point de vue, soulignant les comment et pourquoi du processus de brassage, pourrait aider plus de nouveaux brasseurs à bien commencer. <br />
<br />
''There are many good books on homebrewing currently available, so why did I write one you ask? The answer is: a matter of perspective. When I began learning how to brew my own beer several years ago, I read every book I could find; books often published 15 years apart. It was evident to me that the state of the art had matured a bit. Where one book would recommend using baking yeast and covering the fermenting beer with a towel, a later book would insist on brewing yeast and perhaps an airlock. So, I felt that another point of view, laying out the hows and whys of the brewing processes, might help more new brewers get a better start.''<br />
<br />
''Here is a synopsis of the brewing process:''<br />
<br />
#''Malted barley is soaked in hot water to release the malt sugars.''<br />
#''The malt sugar solution is boiled with Hops for seasoning.''<br />
#''The solution is cooled and yeast is added to begin fermentation.''<br />
#''The yeast ferments the sugars, releasing CO2 and ethyl alcohol.''<br />
#''When the main fermentation is complete, the beer is bottled with a little bit of added sugar to provide the carbonation.''<br />
<br />
''Sounds fairly simple doesn't it? It is, but as you read this book you will realize the incredible amount of information that I glossed over with those five steps. The first step alone can fill an entire book, several in fact. But brewing is easy. And it's fun. Brewing is an art as well as a science. Some people may be put off by the technical side of things, but this is a science that you can taste. The science is what allows everyone to become the artist. Learning about the processes of beer making will let you better apply them as an artist. As my history teacher used to chide me, "It's only boring until you learn something about it. Knowledge makes things interesting."''<br />
<br />
''As an engineer, I was intrigued with the process of beermaking. I wanted to know what each step was supposed to be doing so I could understand how to better accomplish them. For instance, adding the yeast to the beer wort: the emphasis was to get the yeast fermenting as soon as possible to prevent unwanted competing yeasts or microbes from getting a foothold. There are actually several factors that influence yeast propagation, not all of which were explained in any one book. This kind of editing was an effort by the authors to present the information that they felt was most important to overall success and enjoyment of the hobby. Each of us has a different perspective.''<br />
<br />
''Fortunately for me, I discovered the Internet and the homebrewing discussion groups it contained. With the help of veteran brewers on the Home Brew Digest (an Internet mailing list) and Rec.Crafts.Brewing (a Usenet newsgroup) I soon discovered why my first beer had turned out so brilliantly clear, yet fit only for mosquitoes to lay their eggs in. As I became more experienced, and was able to brew beer that could stand proudly with any commercial offering, I realized that I was seeing new brewers on the 'Net with the same basic questions that I had. They were reading the same books I had and some of those were excellent books. Well, I decided to write an electronic document that contained everything that a beginning brewer would need to know to get started. It contained equipment descriptions, process descriptions and some of the Why's of homebrewing. I posted it to electronic bulletin boards and homebrewing archive computer sites such as Sierra.Stanford.edu . It was reviewed by other brewers and accepted as one of the best brewing guides available. It has been through four revisions as comments were received and I learned more about the Why's of brewing. That document, "How To Brew Your First Beer" is still available and free to download and/or reproduce for personal use. It was written to help the first-time brewer produce a fool-proof beer - one they could be proud of. That document has apparently served quite well, it has been requested and distributed world-wide, including Europe, North America, Australia, Africa, and Asia- the Middle East and the Far East. Probably several thousand copies have been distributed by now. Glad I could help.''<br />
<br />
''As time went by, and I moved on to Partial Mashes (half extract, half malted grain) and All-Grain Brewing, I actually saw requests on the 'Net from brewers requesting "Palmer-type" documents explaining these more complex brewing methods. There is a lot to talk about with these methods though, and I realized that it would be best done with a book. So, here we go...''<br />
<br />
''Oh, one more thing, I should mention that Extract Brewing should not be viewed as inferior to brewing with grain, it is merely easier. It takes up less space and uses less equipment. You can brew national competition winning beers using extracts. The reason I moved on to Partial Mashes and then to All-Grain was because brewing is FUN. These methods really let you roll up your sleeves, fire up the kettles and be the inventor. You can let the mad-scientist in you come forth, you can combine different malts and hops at will, defying conventions and conservatives, raising your creation up to the storm and calling down the lightening...Hah hah HAH....''<br />
<br />
''But I digress, thermo-nuclear brewing methods will be covered in another book. Okay, on with the show...''</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew/Introduction&diff=18How to brew/Introduction2009-02-09T20:35:52Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div>Il y a beaucoup de bons ouvrages déjà disponibles traitant du brassage amateur, alors pourquoi en écrire un de plus me demanderez vous&nbsp;? La réponse est&nbsp;: c'est une question d'objectif. Quand j'ai commencé à apprendre comment brasser ma propre bière il y a quelques années, j'ai lu tous les livres que je pouvais trouver; dont certains avaient été 15 ans auparavant. Il était évident pour moi que l'état de l'art avait quelque peu muri entre temps. Là où un ouvrage pouvait recommander l'utilisation de levure de boulangerie et recouvrir la bière en fermentation d'un torchon, un autre ouvrage insistait sur les levures de bière et peut être même un barboteur. Ainsi, il m'a semblé qu'un autre point de vue, soulignant les comment et pourquoi du processus de brassage, pourrait aider plus de nouveaux brasseurs à bien commencer. <br />
<br />
''There are many good books on homebrewing currently available, so why did I write one you ask? The answer is: a matter of perspective. When I began learning how to brew my own beer several years ago, I read every book I could find; books often published 15 years apart. It was evident to me that the state of the art had matured a bit. Where one book would recommend using baking yeast and covering the fermenting beer with a towel, a later book would insist on brewing yeast and perhaps an airlock. So, I felt that another point of view, laying out the hows and whys of the brewing processes, might help more new brewers get a better start.''<br />
<br />
''Here is a synopsis of the brewing process:''<br />
<br />
#''Malted barley is soaked in hot water to release the malt sugars.''<br />
#''The malt sugar solution is boiled with Hops for seasoning.''<br />
#''The solution is cooled and yeast is added to begin fermentation.''<br />
#''The yeast ferments the sugars, releasing CO2 and ethyl alcohol.''<br />
#''When the main fermentation is complete, the beer is bottled with a little bit of added sugar to provide the carbonation.''<br />
<br />
''Sounds fairly simple doesn't it? It is, but as you read this book you will realize the incredible amount of information that I glossed over with those five steps. The first step alone can fill an entire book, several in fact. But brewing is easy. And it's fun. Brewing is an art as well as a science. Some people may be put off by the technical side of things, but this is a science that you can taste. The science is what allows everyone to become the artist. Learning about the processes of beer making will let you better apply them as an artist. As my history teacher used to chide me, "It's only boring until you learn something about it. Knowledge makes things interesting."''<br />
<br />
''As an engineer, I was intrigued with the process of beermaking. I wanted to know what each step was supposed to be doing so I could understand how to better accomplish them. For instance, adding the yeast to the beer wort: the emphasis was to get the yeast fermenting as soon as possible to prevent unwanted competing yeasts or microbes from getting a foothold. There are actually several factors that influence yeast propagation, not all of which were explained in any one book. This kind of editing was an effort by the authors to present the information that they felt was most important to overall success and enjoyment of the hobby. Each of us has a different perspective.''<br />
<br />
''Fortunately for me, I discovered the Internet and the homebrewing discussion groups it contained. With the help of veteran brewers on the Home Brew Digest (an Internet mailing list) and Rec.Crafts.Brewing (a Usenet newsgroup) I soon discovered why my first beer had turned out so brilliantly clear, yet fit only for mosquitoes to lay their eggs in. As I became more experienced, and was able to brew beer that could stand proudly with any commercial offering, I realized that I was seeing new brewers on the 'Net with the same basic questions that I had. They were reading the same books I had and some of those were excellent books. Well, I decided to write an electronic document that contained everything that a beginning brewer would need to know to get started. It contained equipment descriptions, process descriptions and some of the Why's of homebrewing. I posted it to electronic bulletin boards and homebrewing archive computer sites such as Sierra.Stanford.edu . It was reviewed by other brewers and accepted as one of the best brewing guides available. It has been through four revisions as comments were received and I learned more about the Why's of brewing. That document, "How To Brew Your First Beer" is still available and free to download and/or reproduce for personal use. It was written to help the first-time brewer produce a fool-proof beer - one they could be proud of. That document has apparently served quite well, it has been requested and distributed world-wide, including Europe, North America, Australia, Africa, and Asia- the Middle East and the Far East. Probably several thousand copies have been distributed by now. Glad I could help.''<br />
<br />
''As time went by, and I moved on to Partial Mashes (half extract, half malted grain) and All-Grain Brewing, I actually saw requests on the 'Net from brewers requesting "Palmer-type" documents explaining these more complex brewing methods. There is a lot to talk about with these methods though, and I realized that it would be best done with a book. So, here we go...''<br />
<br />
''Oh, one more thing, I should mention that Extract Brewing should not be viewed as inferior to brewing with grain, it is merely easier. It takes up less space and uses less equipment. You can brew national competition winning beers using extracts. The reason I moved on to Partial Mashes and then to All-Grain was because brewing is FUN. These methods really let you roll up your sleeves, fire up the kettles and be the inventor. You can let the mad-scientist in you come forth, you can combine different malts and hops at will, defying conventions and conservatives, raising your creation up to the storm and calling down the lightening...Hah hah HAH....''<br />
<br />
''But I digress, thermo-nuclear brewing methods will be covered in another book. Okay, on with the show...''</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew/Introduction&diff=17How to brew/Introduction2009-02-09T20:35:08Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div>Il y a beaucoup de bons ouvrages déjà disponibles traitant du brassage amateur, alors pourquoi en écrire un de plus me demanderez vous ? La réponse est : c'est une question d'objectif. Quand j'ai commencé à apprendre comment brasser ma propre bière il y a quelques années, j'ai lu tous les livres que je pouvais trouver; dont certains avaient été 15 ans auparavant. Il était évident pour moi que l'état de l'art avait quelque peu muri entre temps. Là où un ouvrage pouvait recommander l'utilisation de levure de boulangerie et recouvrir la bière en fermentation d'un torchon, un autre ouvrage insistait sur les levures de bière et peut être même un barboteur. Ainsi, il m'a semblé qu'un autre point de vue, soulignant les comment et pourquoi du processus de brassage, pourrait aider plus de nouveaux brasseurs à bien commencer.<br />
<br />
There are many good books on homebrewing currently available, so why did I write one you ask? The answer is: a matter of perspective. When I began learning how to brew my own beer several years ago, I read every book I could find; books often published 15 years apart. It was evident to me that the state of the art had matured a bit. Where one book would recommend using baking yeast and covering the fermenting beer with a towel, a later book would insist on brewing yeast and perhaps an airlock. So, I felt that another point of view, laying out the hows and whys of the brewing processes, might help more new brewers get a better start. <br />
<br />
Here is a synopsis of the brewing process: <br />
<br />
#Malted barley is soaked in hot water to release the malt sugars. <br />
#The malt sugar solution is boiled with Hops for seasoning. <br />
#The solution is cooled and yeast is added to begin fermentation. <br />
#The yeast ferments the sugars, releasing CO2 and ethyl alcohol. <br />
#When the main fermentation is complete, the beer is bottled with a little bit of added sugar to provide the carbonation.<br />
<br />
Sounds fairly simple doesn't it? It is, but as you read this book you will realize the incredible amount of information that I glossed over with those five steps. The first step alone can fill an entire book, several in fact. But brewing is easy. And it's fun. Brewing is an art as well as a science. Some people may be put off by the technical side of things, but this is a science that you can taste. The science is what allows everyone to become the artist. Learning about the processes of beer making will let you better apply them as an artist. As my history teacher used to chide me, "It's only boring until you learn something about it. Knowledge makes things interesting." <br />
<br />
As an engineer, I was intrigued with the process of beermaking. I wanted to know what each step was supposed to be doing so I could understand how to better accomplish them. For instance, adding the yeast to the beer wort: the emphasis was to get the yeast fermenting as soon as possible to prevent unwanted competing yeasts or microbes from getting a foothold. There are actually several factors that influence yeast propagation, not all of which were explained in any one book. This kind of editing was an effort by the authors to present the information that they felt was most important to overall success and enjoyment of the hobby. Each of us has a different perspective. <br />
<br />
Fortunately for me, I discovered the Internet and the homebrewing discussion groups it contained. With the help of veteran brewers on the Home Brew Digest (an Internet mailing list) and Rec.Crafts.Brewing (a Usenet newsgroup) I soon discovered why my first beer had turned out so brilliantly clear, yet fit only for mosquitoes to lay their eggs in. As I became more experienced, and was able to brew beer that could stand proudly with any commercial offering, I realized that I was seeing new brewers on the 'Net with the same basic questions that I had. They were reading the same books I had and some of those were excellent books. Well, I decided to write an electronic document that contained everything that a beginning brewer would need to know to get started. It contained equipment descriptions, process descriptions and some of the Why's of homebrewing. I posted it to electronic bulletin boards and homebrewing archive computer sites such as Sierra.Stanford.edu . It was reviewed by other brewers and accepted as one of the best brewing guides available. It has been through four revisions as comments were received and I learned more about the Why's of brewing. That document, "How To Brew Your First Beer" is still available and free to download and/or reproduce for personal use. It was written to help the first-time brewer produce a fool-proof beer - one they could be proud of. That document has apparently served quite well, it has been requested and distributed world-wide, including Europe, North America, Australia, Africa, and Asia- the Middle East and the Far East. Probably several thousand copies have been distributed by now. Glad I could help. <br />
<br />
As time went by, and I moved on to Partial Mashes (half extract, half malted grain) and All-Grain Brewing, I actually saw requests on the 'Net from brewers requesting "Palmer-type" documents explaining these more complex brewing methods. There is a lot to talk about with these methods though, and I realized that it would be best done with a book. So, here we go... <br />
<br />
Oh, one more thing, I should mention that Extract Brewing should not be viewed as inferior to brewing with grain, it is merely easier. It takes up less space and uses less equipment. You can brew national competition winning beers using extracts. The reason I moved on to Partial Mashes and then to All-Grain was because brewing is FUN. These methods really let you roll up your sleeves, fire up the kettles and be the inventor. You can let the mad-scientist in you come forth, you can combine different malts and hops at will, defying conventions and conservatives, raising your creation up to the storm and calling down the lightening...Hah hah HAH.... <br />
<br />
But I digress, thermo-nuclear brewing methods will be covered in another book. Okay, on with the show...</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew/Introduction&diff=16How to brew/Introduction2009-02-09T20:34:38Z<p>WikiAdmin : Nouvelle page : There are many good books on homebrewing currently available, so why did I write one you ask? The answer is: a matter of perspective. When I began learning how to brew my own beer se...</p>
<hr />
<div>There are many good books on homebrewing currently available, so why did I write one you ask? The answer is: a matter of perspective. When I began learning how to brew my own beer several years ago, I read every book I could find; books often published 15 years apart. It was evident to me that the state of the art had matured a bit. Where one book would recommend using baking yeast and covering the fermenting beer with a towel, a later book would insist on brewing yeast and perhaps an airlock. So, I felt that another point of view, laying out the hows and whys of the brewing processes, might help more new brewers get a better start.<br />
<br />
Here is a synopsis of the brewing process:<br />
<br />
#Malted barley is soaked in hot water to release the malt sugars.<br />
#The malt sugar solution is boiled with Hops for seasoning.<br />
#The solution is cooled and yeast is added to begin fermentation.<br />
#The yeast ferments the sugars, releasing CO2 and ethyl alcohol.<br />
#When the main fermentation is complete, the beer is bottled with a little bit of added sugar to provide the carbonation.<br />
<br />
Sounds fairly simple doesn't it? It is, but as you read this book you will realize the incredible amount of information that I glossed over with those five steps. The first step alone can fill an entire book, several in fact. But brewing is easy. And it's fun. Brewing is an art as well as a science. Some people may be put off by the technical side of things, but this is a science that you can taste. The science is what allows everyone to become the artist. Learning about the processes of beer making will let you better apply them as an artist. As my history teacher used to chide me, "It's only boring until you learn something about it. Knowledge makes things interesting."<br />
<br />
As an engineer, I was intrigued with the process of beermaking. I wanted to know what each step was supposed to be doing so I could understand how to better accomplish them. For instance, adding the yeast to the beer wort: the emphasis was to get the yeast fermenting as soon as possible to prevent unwanted competing yeasts or microbes from getting a foothold. There are actually several factors that influence yeast propagation, not all of which were explained in any one book. This kind of editing was an effort by the authors to present the information that they felt was most important to overall success and enjoyment of the hobby. Each of us has a different perspective.<br />
<br />
Fortunately for me, I discovered the Internet and the homebrewing discussion groups it contained. With the help of veteran brewers on the Home Brew Digest (an Internet mailing list) and Rec.Crafts.Brewing (a Usenet newsgroup) I soon discovered why my first beer had turned out so brilliantly clear, yet fit only for mosquitoes to lay their eggs in. As I became more experienced, and was able to brew beer that could stand proudly with any commercial offering, I realized that I was seeing new brewers on the 'Net with the same basic questions that I had. They were reading the same books I had and some of those were excellent books. Well, I decided to write an electronic document that contained everything that a beginning brewer would need to know to get started. It contained equipment descriptions, process descriptions and some of the Why's of homebrewing. I posted it to electronic bulletin boards and homebrewing archive computer sites such as Sierra.Stanford.edu . It was reviewed by other brewers and accepted as one of the best brewing guides available. It has been through four revisions as comments were received and I learned more about the Why's of brewing. That document, "How To Brew Your First Beer" is still available and free to download and/or reproduce for personal use. It was written to help the first-time brewer produce a fool-proof beer - one they could be proud of. That document has apparently served quite well, it has been requested and distributed world-wide, including Europe, North America, Australia, Africa, and Asia- the Middle East and the Far East. Probably several thousand copies have been distributed by now. Glad I could help.<br />
<br />
As time went by, and I moved on to Partial Mashes (half extract, half malted grain) and All-Grain Brewing, I actually saw requests on the 'Net from brewers requesting "Palmer-type" documents explaining these more complex brewing methods. There is a lot to talk about with these methods though, and I realized that it would be best done with a book. So, here we go...<br />
<br />
Oh, one more thing, I should mention that Extract Brewing should not be viewed as inferior to brewing with grain, it is merely easier. It takes up less space and uses less equipment. You can brew national competition winning beers using extracts. The reason I moved on to Partial Mashes and then to All-Grain was because brewing is FUN. These methods really let you roll up your sleeves, fire up the kettles and be the inventor. You can let the mad-scientist in you come forth, you can combine different malts and hops at will, defying conventions and conservatives, raising your creation up to the storm and calling down the lightening...Hah hah HAH.... <br />
<br />
But I digress, thermo-nuclear brewing methods will be covered in another book. Okay, on with the show...</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew&diff=15How to brew2009-02-09T20:28:34Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
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<div>= Bienvenue sur la traduction de "How to Brew" de John Palmer<br> =<br />
<br />
[[Image:Htb3cover.jpg|thumb|right]]Que vous ayiez besoin d'un guide simple et efficace pour brasser votre première bière, ou que vous soyiez un brasseur amateur initié au tout grain, cet ouvrage vous sera utile. Il couvre un large spectre de techniques de brassage - précisément, clairement et simplement. <br>Après des années de recherches et d'améliorations, l'auteur est heureux de vous présenter cet abordable ouvrage sur le brassage amateur pour une lecture en ligne, dans son intégralité. <br />
<br />
Cette 1ère édition de "How to Brew" est gratuite. Vous êtes libre d'entrer, le consulter entièrement et imprimer ses pages pour votre usage personnel. <br />
<br />
''source&nbsp;: ''[http://www.howtobrew.com ''http://www.howtobrew.com''] <br />
<br />
''Avec l'aimable autorisation de John Palmer.'' <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
&nbsp;</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=Accueil&diff=14Accueil2009-02-09T20:11:47Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div><big>'''Bienvenue sur le Wiki de BrassageAmateur.com&nbsp;!'''</big>&nbsp; <br />
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== Le contenu du Wiki&nbsp; ==<br />
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*[[How to brew|How to Brew ]]''de&nbsp;John Palmer&nbsp;''en cours de traduction&nbsp;en Français par&nbsp;les membres du forum BrassageAmateur.com.&nbsp;</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=Accueil&diff=13Accueil2009-02-09T20:11:24Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
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<div><big>'''Bienvenue sur le Wiki de BrassageAmateur.com&nbsp;!'''</big>&nbsp; <br />
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Ce nouveau site a pour vocation de permettre aux membres du forum BrassageAmateur.com de contribuer à la rédaction d'informations, articles, ouvrages ou traductions de références liées au brassage amateur de la bière.<br />
<br />
Vous devez donc être identifié pour ajouter ou modifier du contenu sur ce site, mais bien sur sa consultation reste entièrement libre !<br />
<br />
Bon séjour sur ces pages et merci d'avance de votre contribution.<br><br />
<br />
N'hésitez pas à consulter&nbsp;le [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Aide:Contenu Guide de l’utilisateur] pour plus d’informations sur l’utilisation de ce nouveau site communautaire. <br />
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== Le contenu du Wiki&nbsp; ==<br />
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*[[How to brew|How to Brew ]]''de&nbsp;John Palmer&nbsp;''traduit en Français par&nbsp;les membres du forum BrassageAmateur.com.&nbsp;</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=Accueil&diff=12Accueil2009-02-09T20:10:19Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
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<div><big>'''Bienvenue sur le Wiki de BrassageAmateur.com&nbsp;!'''</big>&nbsp; <br />
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Consultez le [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Aide:Contenu Guide de l’utilisateur] pour plus d’informations sur l’utilisation de ce nouveau site communautaire. <br />
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== Le contenu du Wiki&nbsp; ==<br />
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*[[How to brew|How to Brew ]]''de&nbsp;John Palmer&nbsp;''traduit en Français par&nbsp;les membres du forum BrassageAmateur.com.&nbsp;</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew&diff=11How to brew2009-02-09T19:12:03Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
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<div>'''[[Image:Htb3cover.jpg|thumb|right]]Bienvenue sur la traduction de "How to Brew" de John Palmer,<br>''''''un ouvrage de référence sur le brassage de bière de qualité à la maison.''' <br><br />
<br />
Que vous ayiez besoin d'un guide simple et efficace pour brasser votre première bière, ou que vous soyiez un brasseur amateur initié au tout grain, cet ouvrage vous sera utile. Il couvre un large spectre de techniques de brassage - précisément, clairement et simplement. <br>Après des années de recherches et d'améliorations, l'auteur est heureux de vous présenter cet abordable ouvrage sur le brassage amateur pour une lecture en ligne, dans son intégralité. <br />
<br />
Cette 1ère édition de "How to Brew" est gratuite. Vous êtes libre d'entrer, le consulter entièrement et imprimer ses pages pour votre usage personnel. <br />
<br />
''source&nbsp;: ''[http://www.howtobrew.com ''http://www.howtobrew.com''] <br />
<br />
''Avec l'aimable autorisation de John Palmer'' <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Chapitre 1 ==<br />
<br />
ici chapitre 1 <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Chapitre 2 ==<br />
<br />
ici chapitre 2 <br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Chapitre 3 ==<br />
<br />
ici chapitre 3 <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Chapitre 4 ==<br />
<br />
ici chapitre 4</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew&diff=10How to brew2009-02-09T19:11:16Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div>'''[[Image:Htb3cover.jpg|thumb|right]]Bienvenue sur la traduction de "How to Brew" de John Palmer,<br>''''''un ouvrage de référence sur le brassage de bière de qualité à la maison.''' <br><br />
<br />
Que vous ayiez besoin d'un guide simple et efficace pour brasser votre première bière, ou que vous soyiez un brasseur amateur initié au tout grain, cet ouvrage vous sera utile. Il couvre un large spectre de techniques de brassage - précisément, clairement et simplement. <br>Après des années de recherches et d'améliorations, l'auteur est heureux de vous présenter cet abordable ouvrage sur le brassage amateur pour une lecture en ligne, dans son intégralité. <br />
<br />
Cette 1ère édition de "How to Brew" est gratuite. Vous êtes libre d'entrer, le consulter entièrement et imprimer ses pages pour votre usage personnel. <br />
<br />
''source&nbsp;: ''[http://www.howtobrew.com ''http://www.howtobrew.com''] <br />
<br />
''Avec l'aimable autorisation de John Palmer'' <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Chapitre 1 ==<br />
<br />
ici chapitre 1<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Chapitre 2 ==<br />
<br />
ici chapitre 2<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Chapitre 3 ==<br />
<br />
ici chapitre 3</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew&diff=9How to brew2009-02-09T19:04:45Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div>'''[[Image:Htb3cover.jpg|thumb|right]]Bienvenue sur la traduction de "How to Brew" de John Palmer,<br>''''''un ouvrage de référence sur le brassage de bière de qualité à la maison.''' <br><br />
<br />
Que vous ayiez besoin d'un guide simple et efficace pour brasser votre première bière, ou que vous soyiez un brasseur amateur initié au tout grain, cet ouvrage vous sera utile. Il couvre un large spectre de techniques de brassage - précisément, clairement et simplement. <br>Après des années de recherches et d'améliorations, l'auteur est heureux de vous présenter cet abordable ouvrage sur le brassage amateur pour une lecture en ligne, dans son intégralité. <br />
<br />
Cette 1ère édition de "How to Brew" est gratuite. Vous êtes libre d'entrer, le consulter entièrement et imprimer ses pages pour votre usage personnel. <br />
<br />
''source : ''[http://www.howtobrew.com ''http://www.howtobrew.com'']<br />
<br />
''Avec l'aimable autorisation de John Palmer''</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_brew&diff=7How to brew2009-02-09T17:58:32Z<p>WikiAdmin : Nouvelle page : '''rightBienvenue sur la traduction de "How to Brew" - un ouvrage de référence sur le brassage de bière de qualité à la maison.''' <br> Que vous a...</p>
<hr />
<div>'''[[Image:Htb3cover.jpg|thumb|right]]Bienvenue sur la traduction de "How to Brew" - un ouvrage de référence sur le brassage de bière de qualité à la maison.''' <br><br />
<br />
Que vous ayiez besoin d'un guide simple et efficace pour brasser votre première bière, ou que vous soyiez un brasseur amateur initié au tout grain, cet ouvrage vous sera utile. Il couvre un large spectre de techniques de brassage - précisément, clairement et simplement. <br>Après des années de recherches et d'améliorations, l'auteur est heureux de vous présenter cet abordable ouvrage sur le brassage amateur pour une lecture en ligne, dans son intégralité.<br />
<br />
Cette 1ère édition de "How to Brew" est gratuite. Vous êtes libre d'entrer, le consulter entièrement et imprimer ses pages pour votre usage personnel.</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=Fichier:Htb3cover.jpg&diff=6Fichier:Htb3cover.jpg2009-02-09T17:48:37Z<p>WikiAdmin : Couverture de "How to Brew" de John Palmer</p>
<hr />
<div>Couverture de "How to Brew" de John Palmer</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=Accueil&diff=5Accueil2009-02-09T17:37:22Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div><big>'''Bienvenue sur le Wiki de BrassageAmateur.com !'''</big>&nbsp;<br />
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Consultez le [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Aide:Contenu Guide de l’utilisateur] pour plus d’informations sur l’utilisation de ce nouveau site communautaire. <br />
<br />
== Le contenu du Wiki&nbsp; ==<br />
<br />
*How to Brew ''de&nbsp;John Palmer&nbsp;''traduit en Français par&nbsp;les membres du forum BrassageAmateur.com.&nbsp;</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=Accueil&diff=4Accueil2009-02-09T17:16:52Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div><big>'''Bienvenue sur le Wiki de BrassageAmateur.com !'''</big>&nbsp;<br />
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Consultez le [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Aide:Contenu Guide de l’utilisateur] pour plus d’informations sur l’utilisation de ce nouveau site communautaire. <br />
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== Le contenu du Wiki&nbsp; ==<br />
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*How to Brew ''de Robert Palmer&nbsp;''traduit en Français par&nbsp;les membres du forum BrassageAmateur.com.&nbsp;</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=Accueil&diff=3Accueil2009-02-09T17:15:51Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
<hr />
<div><big>'''Bienvenue sur le Wiki de BrassageAmateur.com !'''</big>&nbsp;<br />
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Consultez le [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Aide:Contenu Guide de l’utilisateur] pour plus d’informations sur l’utilisation de ce nouveau site communautaire. <br />
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== Le contenu du Wiki&nbsp; ==<br />
<br />
*How to Brew ''de Robert Palmer''&nbsp;</div>WikiAdminhttps://www.brassageamateur.com/wiki/index.php?title=Accueil&diff=2Accueil2009-02-09T17:11:21Z<p>WikiAdmin : </p>
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<div><big>'''Bienvenue sur le Wiki de BrassageAmateur.com !'''</big>&nbsp;<br />
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Consultez le [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Aide:Contenu Guide de l’utilisateur] pour plus d’informations sur l’utilisation de ce nouveau site communautaire. <br />
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== Démarrer avec MediaWiki ==<br />
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*[https://lists.wikimedia.org/mailman/listinfo/mediawiki-announce Liste de discussion des parutions de MediaWiki]</div>WikiAdmin